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  1. #51
    86 50CPRI
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    The tag# "E2FEEA" is basically the Carb Part # E=eighties decade, 2= 82, F = foreign, E = engine and the EA is a suffix code generally used for updates and revisions. Here is a link to explain: http://www.hammar.dyndns.org/partnumb.htm

    The F in your part # is probably the reason nobody has seen that version of your 2bbl Motorcraft carb. I have rebuilt probably hundreds of them, and never seen an example like yours. I'm curious about the extra features. I know a guy at a carburetor shop, and will see if he can give me any ideas, but with the holidays around the corner, it might be a little bit.

    Where is your fuel filter? I have seen fittings like yours in the past,and usually there is a canister on or by the fuel pump.

  2. #52
    FEP Senior Member tcruise's Avatar
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    Sweet! Thanks Pete! Bookmarked that one. I'll try to remember to look for a fuel filter. I've been working on it in my back yard, which is getting pretty wet and muddy, so have not spent much time down below. Yesterday I pulled two wheels up on the curb and checked out the exhaust system and the clutch cable/lever.

    The clutch pedal is sticking when depressed past the halfway point. It pops back up after a delay. I jiggled the lever down below, and it feels like the binding is on the lever end, not the cable, but I will pull the cable and lube it anyway and see if that helps.

    The exhaust system is WEIRD. It's a single with a welded Y-pipe, a muffler at the midway point that sounds like it has nothing inside it at all, and a second muffler at the tail with a Y exhaust tip. When I got it, the rearward muffler was already broken off. I suspect this is a cheapo replacement system that was fabbed on the spot by somebody.
    Wish I had a picture of the original exhaust system. It sounds like a jet boat.

    My current problem is why the coil is now producing NO SPARK. It was working last night before I washed/rinsed the car. Then today, I checked out the ignition system as follows:
    1. Tested Coil: Was surprised that it tested good for all three tests, as the case is really rusty (top looks good though).
    2. Checked rotor and cap. Both in good shape, but brightened them up anyway.
    3. Checked points and found they had ZERO GAP. Tried setting to .042". No Fire.
    Tried .022", still no Fire.
    4. Tested Coil wire (crappy silicon type, new, but silicon wires are prone to breakage), tested good, but the coil end was mangled, had to straighten with pliers. Still no Fire.
    5. Tried testing coil output using a timing light and by running a wire from coil to ground to check for spark. NO SPARK.
    6. Verified that coil positive is getting power. Yes, the rotor is in place, yes I have checked and rechecked the coil wire and all plug wires. WHAT THE HELL?

  3. #53
    FEP Senior Member tcruise's Avatar
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    12/26/2011: Tested the condenser using an analog VOM set to 10k ohm range and capacitor out of car, verified needle jumps towards 0, then goes back to infinite, then switched the leads and repeated test. The needle only went a little ways past the top of the scale, so I tried the test on another condenser, and got the exact same results. As far as I can tell, this means the condenser is GOOD.
    The only other possibilities I can think of is a bad ignition switch or a bad relay.
    Suggestions gladly accepted!

  4. #54
    FEP Senior Member tcruise's Avatar
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    Does anyone know if there is a source of technical information on the Mexican-built Mustangs (a shop manual or ???)? Specifically, I could really use information about the ignition system and wiring specifics for this 1983 with 302/4-speed. I found some info on testing ignition switch and relays for Nissan SR20 engines, and don't know how relevant it is to this Mustang. Thanks!

  5. #55
    FEP Senior Member tcruise's Avatar
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    Forgot to mention that I already have the Chilton's Mustang/Capri manual, but this car is so different that the manual is not much use to me. What I need is information on THIS car. The ignition system seems to be the same as for the last points-based U.S. Mustang (circa 1973?).

  6. #56
    FEP Super Member DRAGTOP89's Avatar
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    Maybe try one of the tech areas on this forum? I see you e not gotten any responses
    putting together a little something special......stay tuned!

    92 notch-WIP
    87GT-S Trim,4:10s,AOD=12.70@107
    89vert-sold
    84SVO-WIP
    84 notch-aka-FREAKSHOW
    85GT shell-for sale
    78 Zephyr-WIP
    86 Capri RS-WIP

    Finally,the list of fox wants is complete!!!

  7. #57
    FEP Senior Member tcruise's Avatar
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    Thanks for the suggestion. It's definitely a NO SPARK condition.
    The Mexican Mustang has points system, carburetor and a mechanical fuel pump.
    According to my generic Chilton Mustang/Capri 1979-88 repair manual (allz I gotz), all years of the U.S. versions have DuraSpark electronic ignition.

    I found ONE thread where they were getting no spark from the coil, but it was electronic ignition. I'm getting fuel. The problem is no spark from the coil at all. It WAS working until I adjusted the points, then no spark. Since then I've tested everything and found nothing wrong, but replaced the points and coil with new anyway. Still no spark from coil. Since then, I've done the following tests:

    1. Ignition Coil Test. Test for 12v from coil + to ground with ignition key ON.
    RESULT: PASS (12 volts)

    2. Coil Primary Resistance Check. Connect ohm meter between + and - terminals on coil, should get 0.4-.06 ohms.
    RESULT: PASS? (got 1 ohm on an analog meter)

    3. Coil Secondary Resistance Test. Resistance between coil output and - terminal should be 5000-7200 ohms.
    RESULT: ? (got 9000 ohms on analog meter). This is a NEW COIL! Opinions? Note that I replaced the points and re-tested with the old coil before swapping coils. No spark from either coil with old or new points.

    4. Tested the condenser using an analog VOM set to 10k ohm range and capacitor out of car, verified needle jumps towards 0, then goes back to infinite, then switched the leads and repeated test, got same result. NOTE: The needle only jumps little ways past the top of the scale. I tried the test on another condenser (different brand/model), and got the exact same results. As far as I can tell, this means the Mustang condenser is GOOD.

    The only other possibilities I can think of is a bad ignition switch or a bad relay. The wiring diagrams in my manual do not match the hardware on this beast...

  8. #58
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    You can try this site, Ford Manuals.com, and use the "Contact Us" link. They might have something specific to the Mexican Mustang.

    Hope this helps.
    Last edited by IDMooseMan; 12-28-2011 at 05:03 AM. Reason: Added URL
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
    USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
    To those that serve and have served, "Thank You", to those that haven't, "You're Welcome"
    2.3L Horsepower Potential Thread
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  9. #59
    FEP Senior Member tcruise's Avatar
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    Got it running today! I was re-testing a few things and loosened the distributor hold-down to rotate it so I could verify that points open/close. The dist body has a lot of corrosion on it (probably salt spray). Had to use a dead-blow hammer to get the dist to rotate. This apparently re-established the ground between dist body and engine. Sure glad it turned out to be a conventional issue, and not something specific to this car.

    For anyone else who buys a Mexican Mustang, the ignition system is totally different, so don't expect the U.S. repair manuals to be much help.

    HAPPY NEW YEAR!

  10. #60
    FEP Super Member mustangxtreme's Avatar
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    Congrats. I'm glad to hear you got it running.
    Dave

    If common sense was common wouldn't it just be sense?

    1983 Capri L T top 5.0 efi aod
    1983 Capri RS Turbo
    1981 Black Magic 400 c6
    93 F-250 351 5sp 4x4

  11. #61
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    Fantastic! The fun continues. Happy New Year to you, too.
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
    USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
    To those that serve and have served, "Thank You", to those that haven't, "You're Welcome"
    2.3L Horsepower Potential Thread
    Buyer/Seller Experience Link
    Build Thread
    The Four-Eyed Game - 2018 Version

  12. #62
    86 50CPRI
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    Sorry to leave you hanging..was absent for a bit.Glad to hear it runs again. I figured that if it ran before the points change, and didnt after; that it must be something simple, or something you did. I have had many of the same issues in the past. As you have found out, the manuals for a '82 Mustang' wont suit your needs as the Mexican cars, unfortunately, seemed to use up all the spare parts Ford had,until they ran out, then they upgraded the cars. You are almost better suited to find a manual for a '73 Mustang, as the technology would be the equivalent. At least for the engine and driveability.

    For the points ignition, you remind me of a car I worked on way back in '86. It was an '84 LTD/Crown Victoria. I dont remember if it had a 302 or 351, but I do remember it had points ignition, factory. And you guessed it..it was a Mexican market car in Arizona. I had never encountered the 'different build specs' before that. But living here in a border state, you see some weird things that come north across the border.

  13. #63
    FEP Super Member DRAGTOP89's Avatar
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    Cool you got it running,........now,,,,,,,,,,,,I need to find me a mexicoupe! Hmmmmmm
    putting together a little something special......stay tuned!

    92 notch-WIP
    87GT-S Trim,4:10s,AOD=12.70@107
    89vert-sold
    84SVO-WIP
    84 notch-aka-FREAKSHOW
    85GT shell-for sale
    78 Zephyr-WIP
    86 Capri RS-WIP

    Finally,the list of fox wants is complete!!!

  14. #64
    FEP Senior Member tcruise's Avatar
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    Default 83 Heater Box/Core How To?

    Hey, y'all. I need to replace the heater core and clean the mouse nests out of the heater box of me 83 Mexican Mustang. It does not look like the one in the Chilton manual. Surprise, surprise. I have no idea how to remove it and/or open it up just enough to pull the heater core and clean the insides out. Here's what mine looks like:




    I found a picture of an 85 Mustang heater box that looks like it is similar, but made out of plastic instead of steel.

    I could drill out the rivets that hold the air grille on to clean it out, but that won't help getting the heater core out/in.

    I'd appreciate any detailed instructions on how to proceed and any other useful information that might save me a lot of time and frustration. Thanks!

  15. #65
    FEP Super Member mustangxtreme's Avatar
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    Being an air conditioned car, good luck on the heater core R&R. You can search here for posts on replacing heater cores to get an idea of a direction to take but since yours is a Mexican Mustang it may not work out the same.

    When you do tear into it. take plenty of pics to document the differences for the other Mexistang owners out there.
    Dave

    If common sense was common wouldn't it just be sense?

    1983 Capri L T top 5.0 efi aod
    1983 Capri RS Turbo
    1981 Black Magic 400 c6
    93 F-250 351 5sp 4x4

  16. #66
    FEP Power Member kj_80Cobra's Avatar
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    Here is the thread with the instructions for replacing the heater core in an a/c car.
    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=20497

  17. #67
    FEP Senior Member tcruise's Avatar
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    WOW, v8only's how to procedures for removing the dash and heater core are EXCELLENT. It will be interesting to see if I run into any notable differences. Thanks guys!

  18. #68
    86 50CPRI
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    I would figure either way the dash would need to come out, then look at it with a clear view on where to disassemble from there..

  19. #69
    FEP Senior Member tcruise's Avatar
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    I found one of the mounting tabs/bolts on the heater box, and can remove it without pulling the dash. Not sure where the other one(s) are yet. I'd like to know how to pull the plastic heat duct that runs across the front of the box, right behind the dash.
    This thing has a ton of extra wires and is a real mess. Pulling the dash and getting it back in place would be a nightmare.
    Think I'll see if I can drop the heater box without pulling the dash.

    For anyone considering buying one, the cheapo dash-mount 12v electric defrosters that Harbor Freight sells barely do anything. With the heat on, the fan does almost nothing, and with just the fan, it does not dry the window. Took 15-20 minutes to clear the part of the windshield in front of me, and that was AFTER I wiped it off a couple times with a glove. It would probably work better in a warmer/dryer climate, but not here!

  20. #70
    FEP Super Member onetrackrider's Avatar
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    does the horn work?
    Current rides:
    89 LX 5.0, 5 -spd..the Lemon
    86 RS Capri 5.0 Auto...
    86 LX Colorado SSP 5.0 5-spd (Sadly Sold)
    85.5 SVO, Finally Got Boost
    83 RS Capri 5.0, 5-spd (another sadly sold)

  21. #71
    FEP Senior Member tcruise's Avatar
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    Default Re: Does the horn work?

    No, tried the horn today, no beep. The turn signal has the horn icon and it goes in when I push, but no sound. I'll check to see if it even has horns and if they are wired.

    Went to Harbor Freight to buy a slim jim to use to get the headrest off, but the don't sell them. A piece of regular steel did not work, could not get around the headrests, because they won't pull up (stuck all the way down). Any more ideas on how to get the headrests off?

    While I'm at it, has anyone out there replaced the headliner and backing board? Mine is too warped to re-use, and I need to install a stiffening brace on the top to keep it from denting, so the board will have to come out. The vinyl is intact, though, so I'll clean the old polyurethane adhesive off it and glue it on the new backer board. Any helpful tips welcome!

  22. #72
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    I have worked on a lot of your 2150 carbs over the years, and have never seen the second butterfly like yours, or have I ever seen any printed material about it either. I DO have a hunch that it is tied into the canister mounted on the back of the carb, and my guess is that the carb is able to lean itself out at altitude, ( aneroid bellows )are there any places in Mexico over 5000 feet? I think a LOT of other 4 eye owners would like to see it also, if you look at the small red clue below....
    Neil
    Check out the Northwest "4-Eye" BBQ here >>> WWW.NWFOUREYEBBQ.COM

    foureyebbq@hotmail.com (to be put on the BBQ list )

    Lots of pics of my ride for your viewing pleasure....
    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2052657/1

  23. #73
    FEP Senior Member tcruise's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WHTLTHR79RS View Post
    I have worked on a lot of your 2150 carbs over the years, and have never seen the second butterfly like yours, or have I ever seen any printed material about it either. I DO have a hunch that it is tied into the canister mounted on the back of the carb, and my guess is that the carb is able to lean itself out at altitude, ( aneroid bellows )are there any places in Mexico over 5000 feet? I think a LOT of other 4 eye owners would like to see it also, if you look at the small red clue below....
    Neil
    Thanks for the info, Neil! Your theory about this carb being a special high-altitude model makes sense, since Mexico City's elevation is 7,350ft.

    There's another guy in Mexico City who's been posting progress on his Mexican Mustang resto, and I noticed that he has the same carb. His has been rebuilt and looks brand spanking new, including all the external goodies. I'd like to do the same, but no idea where I'd get the parts.

    Not knowing how much of a rebuild kit for a standard 2150 will match my carb, and not having a spare carb handy, I'm very hesitant to tear into this one. I've asked if anyone knows of the existence of a shop manual or supplement that is specifically for the Mexican Mustangs, but no replies so far.

    I plan to attend the Northwest Four Eye BBQ. FYI, the 2012 Event Info link points to a non-existent "2009 flyer.pdf". I emailed webmaster about this and some other problems.
    1983 Mexican Mustang 5.0/4-spd
    1982 Capri RS 5.0 H.O.

  24. #74
    86 50CPRI
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    OK...Big news!! Unfortunately, my carb guy was NOT able to reference anything from the tag. Being a 'foreign" reference, he did not have a listing. However, he DID give me this:
    After sending him the pics of the carb, he was able to determine that it WAS a high altitude version of the standard Motorcraft 2150. He gave me this, too: NAPA 2-5152-A for the carb kit, and 2-452 for the float. Hopefully this will help you get this thing back in business!

  25. #75
    FEP Senior Member tcruise's Avatar
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    Default Motorcraft 2150 2V Carburetor - Part Numbers

    Quote Originally Posted by 86 50CPRI View Post
    OK...Big news!! Unfortunately, my carb guy was NOT able to reference anything from the tag. Being a 'foreign" reference, he did not have a listing. However, he DID give me this:
    After sending him the pics of the carb, he was able to determine that it WAS a high altitude version of the standard Motorcraft 2150. He gave me this, too: NAPA 2-5152-A for the carb kit, and 2-452 for the float. Hopefully this will help you get this thing back in business!
    Thanks, Rich! Now I need to find a NAPA. The one by me closed last year.

    I recently did some more research on the Web and learned that this feature is called an Aneroid altitude compensator, and this description of its intended purpose:

    The "altitude compensating" carbs were intended to be a workaround for OEM emissions certification on vehicles sold NEW by NEW vehicle DEALERS, back in the late 70's>late 80's.

    Vehicles off the line were emissions certified at roughly "sea level" operating conditions. If the same vehicle was sold/delivered say by a dealer in the Denver area or Cheyenne, or Helena (just examples), then the fuel delivery system (carb) was SUPPOSED to be "tweeked" PRIOR to delivery, per explicit Technical Service Bulletin information using EXPLICITLY spelled out service parts. This "maintained" the vehicle as being in emissions compliance at the point of delivery and in essence, the selling dealer became a "manufacturer" under the law.

    The "compensating" carb concept was really an effort for the OEMs to be able to maintain emissions compliance in ALL vehicle markets, WITHOUT having to pay a dealer (warranty claim) to bring the vehicle into compliance by reworking the carb.

    It was NEVER meant to be "compensating" in the sense that most of you are thinking (the be-all and end-all perfect carb for any operational elevation). The advent of EFI took care of this issue and carbs in general began to disappear from the scene in the mid-80's and were pretty much gone by 1991 (U.S. domestic market).

    Source: http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/a...p?t-30725.html
    1983 Mexican Mustang 5.0/4-spd
    1982 Capri RS 5.0 H.O.

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