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  1. #1
    FEP Super Member 82mustang's Avatar
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    Default Budget 408w Build? 400m Crank, 360 Rods, Etc..

    I was reading in this small block ford book last night and i found where the writer said using a 351w block, 400m crank with the main journals ground to fit the 351w block, chrysler 360 rods with the big end machined to fit the 400m crank you'll get a 408w, i assume using 351w pistons since he didnt mention anything about em. Whuddya think? out local machine shop doesn't have the tools to machine a crank or i actually might consider it
    86' Coupe Street/Strip Never Ending Project-351w, 4 Wheel Disk, WC T5, etc...

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  2. #2
    Parts Destroyer gdniel's Avatar
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    Cheaper anymore to buy a 408 kit. If you want budget, 393 stroker crank, 351W rods, and 302 pistons= 393 windsor.
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  3. #3
    FEP Power Member Mad Max's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 82mustang View Post
    I was reading in this small block ford book last night and i found where the writer said using a 351w block, 400m crank with the main journals ground to fit the 351w block, chrysler 360 rods with the big end machined to fit the 400m crank you'll get a 408w, i assume using 351w pistons since he didnt mention anything about em.
    It's a copy of an old artical from 92.

    Use chevy 350 pistons with a 4.030 bore.

    much easier to go buy a stroker kit.
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  4. #4
    FEP Supporter mmb617's Avatar
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    The machine work would eat up any potential savings and you still have a cobbled together setup. Another vote for buy a stroker kit, they're actually pretty reasonable these days.
    408/T5/3.73's

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  5. #5
    FEP Power Member SRM351's Avatar
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    www.propowerperf.com has cheap stroker kits. Check out the June '08 copy of Popular Hot Rodding. The machine work needed for that combo could very easily top the price of a purpose made stroker kit, especially when it comes time to balance it all!
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  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by gdniel View Post
    Cheaper anymore to buy a 408 kit. If you want budget, 393 stroker crank, 351W rods, and 302 pistons= 393 windsor.
    I have that exact setup. Just not in the car yet!
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  7. #7

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    What do you mean 351 rods and 302 pistions =393? Rods do not give you displacement. They move the same amount as the crank. And the pistons are determined by the bore of the block.

    As for the 408, I tried to build one when I was younger. I had factory stuff but did not know you were supposed to use 360 slopar rods until this post. In case you are wondering, with the 400 rod, you will have a REALLY short piston. I believe you would even have the second ring (if not the top) into the writ pin.

    Chris

  8. #8
    FEP Power Member Syco Stang's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by seawalkersee View Post
    What do you mean 351 rods and 302 pistions =393? Rods do not give you displacement. They move the same amount as the crank. And the pistons are determined by the bore of the block.

    As for the 408, I tried to build one when I was younger. I had factory stuff but did not know you were supposed to use 360 slopar rods until this post. In case you are wondering, with the 400 rod, you will have a REALLY short piston. I believe you would even have the second ring (if not the top) into the writ pin.

    Chris
    Stroker crank at 5.85" mated with stock 351W rods (5.956") and stock 302 pistons will give you the proper height in the bore and a 389 CI displacement. If I recall correctly, a .030" overbore gives you a 393........ Been a while since I talked about this......
    SS

  9. #9

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    Ok...I can see that. Thanks for clearing it up.

    Chris

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by 82mustang View Post
    I was reading in this small block ford book last night and i found where the writer said using a 351w block, 400m crank with the main journals ground to fit the 351w block, chrysler 360 rods with the big end machined to fit the 400m crank you'll get a 408w, i assume using 351w pistons since he didnt mention anything about em. Whuddya think? out local machine shop doesn't have the tools to machine a crank or i actually might consider it
    Isn't this the second time you said the machine shop was ill equipped? damn they need to get in gear...what is their primary busness.... loggers?
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  11. #11

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    This is just my experience, but I've had alot of things screwed up by machine shops, so I try to keep my business at them to a minimum. On my last engine (a '69 428 CJ), I couldn't get it to idle worth a damn, finally I layed a straight edge across the valve tips only to find that the valves seats were all ground to different heights! The machinist tried telling me it was no big deal that some were more than 1/8" off because I had adjustable rockers! Bottom line, stroker kits are cheap and they're purposely made to work together.

  12. #12
    FEP Super Member 82mustang's Avatar
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    damn, i should check mine with a straight edge.. and yes our local machine shop isn't top of the line, the upside is he can do the basic things and usually get em done the same day, if i need major engine work i'll travel an hour to olympia and drop off my parts, they have better quality and avility to do the work, but they're more expensive and there is a short waiting list..

    EDIT: a while back i asked about machining an input shaft down (the longer 94+ one just in case i couldn't find the proper fox length shaft), he said the steel is harder than a file, but even if it was possible his lathe is bent.. he showed me and his lathe wobbled a good 1/4", it was rediculous..it's only purpose was using 2 pointed ends and spin a shaft on them to see if it's out of round, that was great for my main/output shaft on the free T5 i got, it was actually bent..
    Last edited by 82mustang; 05-24-2008 at 02:30 AM.
    86' Coupe Street/Strip Never Ending Project-351w, 4 Wheel Disk, WC T5, etc...

    Link to my car Pics:
    http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v414/hyper7pbs/

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