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  1. #26

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    I don't know the first ****ing thing about a turbo charged ford 4 banger, lol!!!!! I may be a guru with 5.0's, but the turbo 4's are all new to me
    Jeremy
    -86 mustang SSP X CHP Unit # 3788-bone stock & staying that way
    -66 Mustang, bench seat car,8.8,t5 fuel injected 92 engine
    -72 Maverick 5.0 resto in process
    -12SS Camaro 6 speed. 600 FWHP, Kraftwerks Supercharger
    -03 z71 Avalanche 9" lift on 35s Daily Driven 20k a year. 290k miles at 11.8 mpg
    Entire 1986 electrical and vacuum troubleshooting manual download
    http://slantnosefox.com/picturehosti...g%20manual.zip

  2. #27

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    If it leaks...it shouldn't. Thats all you gotta know.
    If it sounds like its running on 2 or 3 cylinders...its probably running on 2 or 3 cylinders
    No matter where you go, there you are

  3. #28

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    well i didn't really get much done this week at all on the svo. I was busy putting gadgets on the 5.0 and was going to attempt to put the seatbelts on the notch then my dad needed me to help him move so that was that. I was looking at the motor and i remember the motor smoking like hell. Turned it on today and i saw what seemed to be some kind of water cooling to the turbo. The rubber hose that comes from the t-stat has a hose that splits off to the turbo and sits right next to the exhaust manifold and was spitting and draining all the water and causing the smoking effect, and is that the oil return line that is supposed to be the braided one, why did they add the rubber one over the braided one...





    Is the braided one supposed to go directly where the rubber hose is going into?







    should i replace this entire bar ?


    Last edited by EightySixNotch; 04-07-2008 at 01:02 AM.

  4. #29

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    You "can" replace that entire bar. Then can get one without the watercooling bypass(from a N/A stang), or get fancy new stainless ones from Forced4.com? I think. Fortunately water cooling isn't essential for the operation of the turbocharger. Many will debate that it should be used.

    As for the oil feed, if the oil feed is long enough to reach the turbo without a problem, then you probably can get a AN fitting to 1/4? in thread that'll make it work. Heck, the fitting you require is probably right there between the braided line and the rubber line. I can only assume that it was done that way because it didn't reach though. But it looks like that line is pretty long. Might have to route it over the valve cover maybe?
    No matter where you go, there you are

  5. #30
    FEP Super Member
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    Pensacola, Fl
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    So you want to ditch the notch for this SVO......I don't know about that (I love both). Perhaps there is a way to keep both...and enjoy the SVO. As none are available in my area and/or price range, I settled for the next best thing...an 84 GT Turbo (shouldn't say settled...more like found for cheap).
    " If you're not living life on the edge, that means you're taking up too much room."
    1979 Mustang Indy Pace 2.3T/4spd (sold on 1/10/16)
    1983 GLX vert 3.8/auto (triple black, sold on 10/8/13)
    1984 (early) Turbo GT (parts SLOWLY coming together)
    1985 Coupe 4.6L DOHC/IRS swapped (sold 9/10/17)
    1986 GT TTop 5spd (sold as of 10/8/13)
    1988 Thunderbird TurboCoupe (Cobra IRS/Brakes/big turbo project)

  6. #31

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    Quote Originally Posted by 86GT2go View Post
    So you want to ditch the notch for this SVO......I don't know about that (I love both). Perhaps there is a way to keep both...and enjoy the SVO. As none are available in my area and/or price range, I settled for the next best thing...an 84 GT Turbo (shouldn't say settled...more like found for cheap).
    i been thinking long and hard and financially im not there. Having to divide my money by 3 sucks especially when the svo parts are not cheap. Im working on little parts here and there but im just going to keep on truckin' and try and keep all three because i love them all and would hate it if they left my sight. v8only has been wanting to take the svo off my hands and he is willing to but i think i would shed a tear if i saw the svo walk away from me, i just get attached to all my cars and thats what sucks.

  7. #32

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    The worst part of having multiple vintage cars is keeping up with all the maintenence. There isn't usually enough money or time to go around with more then two. I got up to 6 cars at once before I finally decided it was just too much to keep up with. Now I'm down to 3.5, and it's still too much. A large part of me wishes I'd stuck with one daily driver, and one project.
    Last edited by Jimmy2.3Mustang; 05-08-2011 at 11:37 PM.
    1986 Mustang Notch, 2.3L Turbo Project

  8. #33

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    take your time, and think it through. I tried three 5.0's once, I had my 86 vert, an 82 5.0 notch I was building mechanically from the ground up, and an 83 5.0 ttop coupe I had bought just because I couldn't pass it up.

    I gave up after about 3 months. Sold both coupes off, and kept my vert. Hope you can work it out, all three have great potential.
    Jeremy
    -86 mustang SSP X CHP Unit # 3788-bone stock & staying that way
    -66 Mustang, bench seat car,8.8,t5 fuel injected 92 engine
    -72 Maverick 5.0 resto in process
    -12SS Camaro 6 speed. 600 FWHP, Kraftwerks Supercharger
    -03 z71 Avalanche 9" lift on 35s Daily Driven 20k a year. 290k miles at 11.8 mpg
    Entire 1986 electrical and vacuum troubleshooting manual download
    http://slantnosefox.com/picturehosti...g%20manual.zip

  9. #34

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    These engines are retardedly simple. Ford took the brute force approach with most of it.

    Get a proper feed line, replace the gasket on the oil drain, and run the center section dry to take care of all that water plumbing that does nothing but leak ;-) So long as you let the turbo cool down a tad before shutting it down after a hard run you will be fine running it dry. That oil drain situation isn't going to be helping you in the long run, the center section gets quite warm, I wouldn’t remotely trust the rubber under the oil pressure.

    You can just toss a set of heater pipes from a NA on there if you want to switch it to a dry housing. As for smoke, your going to have to fix your oil feed/drain situation before you can know for sure what’s going on there. If the turbo was used and abused there’s a chance the hot side oil seals are grade A shot. Valve Seals on these cars do get dried up but they don't tend to cause a problem other than start up smoke.

    Oh yeah, get a good PCV valve on there, those damn things cause all sorts of problems such as blasting the dipstick into the hood at great force (which is a wonderful sound..)
    It puts the ATF in the T5... IT DOES AS IT'S TOLD!!!!!

  10. #35

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    ok, i tried to do it by myself without asking but i have to ask now, where is the pcv valve located? im looking at the haynes manual and it illustrates the pcv valve from the 5.0 but where is the one from the svo???

  11. #36

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    http://aycu31.webshots.com/image/502...8615009_rs.jpg

    In this image, there is a tube that is below the FPR...or above the alternator in this picture. That...what 1/2 inch diameter tubing is the PCV valve tube. Pull that up and there SHOULD be a valve at the end of it. The parts store valves work...until their internal valve thingie just right...sits in the wrong position, which allows pressure to bypass it.
    No matter where you go, there you are

  12. #37

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    found it. Just replace this? I found them cheap at auto zone but they aren't motorcraft.

  13. #38

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    Is this the correct one, its on forced4 or is it just a preview image of what i am getting.

  14. #39

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    First clean your old one, it may have gotten clogged up or something since its already a Motorcraft one. Keep that one since it looks like its the proper one. Forced4 is where I got mine, since its cheap enough you can always have a spare.
    No matter where you go, there you are

  15. #40

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    searched the internet and search returned yearone.com for part number, but is it for the svo? or regular stang. Title stated turbo.
    http://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/f...ain2.asp?cat=F

  16. #41

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    Can't even find it...but I have the Forced4 one on my car.
    Also, is it possible for you to do a compression test and leak down test?
    No matter where you go, there you are

  17. #42

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    Quote Originally Posted by mfpmax View Post
    Can't even find it...but I have the Forced4 one on my car.
    Also, is it possible for you to do a compression test and leak down test?
    went out to the car to look at the part number and it reads diffrent from whats already in there. Part Number Is EV-98-3K27 but the catalog on yearone.com list it as EV127A

    Another Site Lists This:
    PCV
    1984
    OEM: D9DZ-6A666-A
    MOTORCRAFT: EV-76-C
    1985-86
    OEM: E5ZZ-6A666-A
    MOTORCRAFT: EV-127-A
    Last edited by EightySixNotch; 04-13-2008 at 04:43 PM.

  18. #43

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    Yes, the EV-127 is the correct one.
    No matter where you go, there you are

  19. #44
    FEP Super Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Pensacola, Fl
    Posts
    4,225

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    EightySixNotch, I share your pain! I have 3 cars I am working on too, my 83vert, the 84early GTTurbo, and my 86GT.
    " If you're not living life on the edge, that means you're taking up too much room."
    1979 Mustang Indy Pace 2.3T/4spd (sold on 1/10/16)
    1983 GLX vert 3.8/auto (triple black, sold on 10/8/13)
    1984 (early) Turbo GT (parts SLOWLY coming together)
    1985 Coupe 4.6L DOHC/IRS swapped (sold 9/10/17)
    1986 GT TTop 5spd (sold as of 10/8/13)
    1988 Thunderbird TurboCoupe (Cobra IRS/Brakes/big turbo project)

  20. #45

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    Quote Originally Posted by 86GT2go View Post
    EightySixNotch, I share your pain! I have 3 cars I am working on too, my 83vert, the 84early GTTurbo, and my 86GT.
    i look at it like a hobbie only problem is im no wrench head. work right now is in the way of my 3 stangs so i hardly get time to put into each of them because on top of work i got a gf/wife that doesn't let me get out of her sight. no matter if financially im not there or i put very little time into them im going to give all 3 of them as much as love as i possibly can cuz i look at it like i got best of both worlds from all 3 of them and would literally cry if i let go of any one of them. So all in all the pain is worth it.

  21. #46
    FEP Super Member
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    That's me. Between work (2 jobs), the house, crap weather, and a girlfriend with school and car payments (and her only working 20hrs a week) I get no time or money to work on any of my 3 cars. I just got the heads bolted down onto the 3.8 for the 83vert, and recieved the rims for the 84GTTurbo. The 86GT is giving some of its suspension up for the 84, but I just haven't had the time to do it yet; and the 84 needs a complete body resto before I can do any serious suspension/motor mods to it. The 86 is going to be a money drainer...so I put it off. Just don't lose hope or drive; a little at a time is better than none at all!
    " If you're not living life on the edge, that means you're taking up too much room."
    1979 Mustang Indy Pace 2.3T/4spd (sold on 1/10/16)
    1983 GLX vert 3.8/auto (triple black, sold on 10/8/13)
    1984 (early) Turbo GT (parts SLOWLY coming together)
    1985 Coupe 4.6L DOHC/IRS swapped (sold 9/10/17)
    1986 GT TTop 5spd (sold as of 10/8/13)
    1988 Thunderbird TurboCoupe (Cobra IRS/Brakes/big turbo project)

  22. #47

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    *Update*
    Im trying to cancel the water cooling the beaner way and by that i mean strickly mickey moused for now until i get her running and back on the road. I hit the car up with some antifreeze and it leaked it all. i put water in it and topped it off and it started leaking from where the turbo connects to the exhaust. What is needed to cancel out so that it isnt water cooled? Is it the part that comes from the thermostat and the part that connects on the opposite side that goes all the way down to the block? pics below.

    do i cancel this and leave the part on the turbo where it connects to the turbo open...

    and does this one cancel too, cuz when pulled it leaked all the antifreeze

    through here is where it was leaking when i pulled it apart.

  23. #48

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    There is a fitting in the block you can either plug with a threaded plug or do the shade tree length of hose, hose clamp, and bolt method.
    As mentioned earlier, your upper water feed line can be deleted by swapping to a N/A line...or you could route that line down to the line that goes to the engine block.

    You can leave the turbos water in and out open. No harm will be done.

    And in case you're wondering. There is no gasket at the downpipe/turbo outlet. If there is a sealing problem you can use high temp silicone to seal it possibly.
    No matter where you go, there you are

  24. #49

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    Quote Originally Posted by mfpmax View Post
    As mentioned earlier, your upper water feed line can be deleted by swapping to a N/A line...or you could route that line down to the line that goes to the engine block.

    You can leave the turbos water in and out open. No harm will be done.

    And in case you're wondering. There is no gasket at the downpipe/turbo outlet. If there is a sealing problem you can use high temp silicone to seal it possibly.
    thanks man, i was anxiously waiting a reply. i want to get her running asap!

  25. #50

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    mk well routed it straight to the one that goes to the block and its leaking from where the wastegate act rod connects to the bottom of the turbo. I am suspecting that somewhere it is cracked. it leaks from where the turbo connects to the exhaust and drips down to the linkage of where the wastegate connects to the bottom of the exhaust. i wanna get it back up and running but this plumbing garbage sucks! why is water still running to the turbo? i fill up the radiator and it starts to leak like into the turbo..... im calling it a day.. any advice mfpmax?

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