Originally Posted by
JACook
The first trick is knowing what you need to reach. The dash assembly was designed
to be installed (and removed) as a complete assembly. You don't even need to take
out the instrument cluster or radio, if it's still using factory wiring. Most guys really
overwork themselves trying to leave the harness in the car. You've got basically
six groups of things that need to be disconnected to get the whole dash out with
the harness, radio, and ductwork, still in it.
There is a group of connectors in the left side cowl area, behind the kick panel, and
also the foglight switch and indicator connections, if you have 'em.
The next group of connectors goes to the switches on the steering column, the interval
wiper control module, if equipped, and the brake light switch.
There's another group of connectors in the area of the cowl-to-transmission-tunnel brace
behind the radio, and also the radio antenna cable, and the connectors at the forward
end of the console, if equipped. The console does not have to be removed, but it does
make it a bit easier to get to it's connectors.
To the right of the glovebox, there's a couple more connectors, more or less, depending
on year, model, and options.
Then you have the cables to the blower motor resistor and the blower motor itself,
the heater temp control mechanical cable, and a vacuum hose harness plug.
Finally, there's another group of cables up over the top of the porkchop brace, buried
up behind the instrument cluster area, as well as the speedometer drive cable.
That last group is the only one that's a bit of a pain, because there is no access hole
behind the instrument cluster, or in the top of the dash. You have to unbolt the dash,
pull it back away, and tilt it down. Then reach in behind to disconnect the speedometer
cable and the four harness connectors on top of the porkchop brace. Once those are
undone, you should be able to pull the entire dash out of the car.
One tip about all these connectors- They are old and kinda brittle, and the locking tabs
Ford used are a complete pain. If you end up breaking any locking tabs, and you will,
you can use tie-wraps to secure the connectors when you put them back together.
I also like to put a bit of dielectric grease in each female connector pin before I plug
things back together. If you have the dash out, it's a good idea to do that to all the
connectors before you put the dash back in the car.
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