step by step dash removal with pictures

[86nu]

when I did my dash, Im so glad all I needed was the cluster face and dash pad. Everything else was just cut or ripped out. Nice way to drop 50lbs of wiring and heater box.

If not that route, a very nice write up, def a job you dont want to have to do again

[v8only]

I thought all the pics would be fixed....if I get a chance I'll go through that article later and fix the pics

[allenpul]

Thanks was wondering what happened to the pics too...

[86GTdriver]

I'm about to do a dash removal myself here in the next couple of months. I subscribed to this thread and was hoping to use it's pics as reference and the accompanying heater core thread to get this done on my GT.

[v8only]

my xbox 360 just broke the other night, and I suddenly Have found myself with more time than I know what to do with. I'll repair these pictures tonight

[v8only]

TTT, FInally finished fixing all the links...pictures should all show now.

[86GT5spdEVERETT]

great write up.ive pulled alot of dashes and even did a 87 swap on my old 85 vert. you learn thinks the hard way. this is a time saving write up.
what program did you use to put the circles in the pictures?
i did a write up for this a while back and wanted to label pics like you did. anyways this should be a sticky as already stated

[1982 niGhTmare]

what program did you use to put the circles in the pictures?
i did a write up for this a while back and wanted to label pics like you did. anyways this should be a sticky as already stated

Just open the pics in MS Paint! You can use the brush or circle thingy to, well, circle things and use the text boxes to make labels.

[86GT5spdEVERETT]

Just open the pics in MS Paint! You can use the brush or circle thingy to, well, circle things and use the text boxes to make labels.

ok i havent used paint in years. i ll check it out. i use acdsee for pictures but i dont think it does anything like that. i figured most used photoshop.

[v8only]

I think it was paint....

I must have put the circles on too before I resized the pics...hence the choppy circles. I bet if I resized them first, they would be better circles

[83GTRAG]

this is perfect and exactly what I am in the middle of doing. I got pissed and quit for the night. I will be on it first thing in the morning.

[TheWizard]

If and when my heater core goes south I have to do this...I'll just bypass the dam thing and be done with it.

[83GTRAG]

OK I lied.. I didnt quit for the night I did it (11:30pm) and so far so good. It is all apart, new bulbs and replaced speedo with a 140mph. I am going to get some good plastic polish before I button it all up. Oh yeah and fix my clutch cable. I thought it was the speedo cable..oops live and learn..

[mustang86er]

Wow, this sure saved me from a major headache. Man thanks!

[v8only]

I did this twice on the same car. The second time around is the pics you see here...and I just swapped it out because the first time I put in a dash that had the wrong radio opening, DOH!!!

so I swapped out the entire dash for the right radio opening, never installed the radio, then sold the car, oh well.

[Nova]

i did a complete interior swap, so pulled and reinstalled two dashes... in 2 days.

[4eye]

is there a trick to reaching all the d%$^ plugs that I cant reach? LOL

[JACook]

The first trick is knowing what you need to reach. The dash assembly was designed
to be installed (and removed) as a complete assembly. You don't even need to take
out the instrument cluster or radio, if it's still using factory wiring. Most guys really
overwork themselves trying to leave the harness in the car. You've got basically
six groups of things that need to be disconnected to get the whole dash out with
the harness, radio, and ductwork, still in it.

There is a group of connectors in the left side cowl area, behind the kick panel, and
also the foglight switch and indicator connections, if you have 'em.

The next group of connectors goes to the switches on the steering column, the interval
wiper control module, if equipped, and the brake light switch.

There's another group of connectors in the area of the cowl-to-transmission-tunnel brace
behind the radio, and also the radio antenna cable, and the connectors at the forward
end of the console, if equipped. The console does not have to be removed, but it does
make it a bit easier to get to it's connectors.

To the right of the glovebox, there's a couple more connectors, more or less, depending
on year, model, and options.

Then you have the cables to the blower motor resistor and the blower motor itself,
the heater temp control mechanical cable, and a vacuum hose harness plug.

Finally, there's another group of cables up over the top of the porkchop brace, buried
up behind the instrument cluster area, as well as the speedometer drive cable.

That last group is the only one that's a bit of a pain, because there is no access hole
behind the instrument cluster, or in the top of the dash. You have to unbolt the dash,
pull it back away, and tilt it down. Then reach in behind to disconnect the speedometer
cable and the four harness connectors on top of the porkchop brace. Once those are
undone, you should be able to pull the entire dash out of the car.

One tip about all these connectors- They are old and kinda brittle, and the locking tabs
Ford used are a complete pain. If you end up breaking any locking tabs, and you will,
you can use tie-wraps to secure the connectors when you put them back together.

I also like to put a bit of dielectric grease in each female connector pin before I plug
things back together. If you have the dash out, it's a good idea to do that to all the
connectors before you put the dash back in the car.

[tbirdsps]

When I dropped the dash in my Cougar for the heater core replacement I only disconnected the speedo cable and the heater control cables. There was enough wire length to rest the dash on the seats. Access to the heater box was easy. Like others have said don't forget to undo the PRNDL from the steering column as when lowering the column may break the itsy bitsy wire on that.

Great pictures by the way. I could have used them three years ago.

[JACook]

When I dropped the dash in my Cougar for the heater core replacement I only disconnected the speedo cable and the heater control cables. There was enough wire length to rest the dash on the seats.

Yes, and for a heater core replacement, that's how the job is laid out in the FSM.

[Marz]

Ok, Jeremy did a great write up. But I still disagree with having to actually removed the dash and disconnect all those wires.

I've never had to do this with any of the 6 foxes I've replaced heater cores in.

Basically you unbolt the dash, disconnect the speedo cable and if you have a column shift the selector wire. Then drop the steering column to the floor and move the dash away from the fire wall. You then unbolt the heater core/AC assembly from the firewall and move that away from the firewall too.

[Mr Joshua]

on the pictures, helped me finish assembling the metal substructure.. as i couldn't remember how it went together as the last time i had it out was 4 years ago.

[v8only]

sweet, great news!!!

[bscottie]

good info, both threads are very informative

[Mr Joshua]

question about the screws originally holding the dash in, under the dash pad.. looks like they had used a retaining screw with a fairly large washer, as it they left marks in the dye they used to paint the dash.. were small headed screws in your dash original?