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  1. #76
    FEP Super Member Gemini1999's Avatar
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    I like this thread as well. I know that I could do the swap myself, but I can't work on my car to this degree on the premises where I live. If I knew someone with the space and the tools, I could get this done. It would be a lot better than giving someone 400.00 (a local estimate thru a Mustang shop) to do it. I keep putting it off just for that reason.
    Bryan

    1983 Mustang GLX Convertible

  2. #77

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    $400 seems a little low to me. I'd be concerned about the quality of the work. A factory heater
    core will easily eat up $85 of that, and the rest will depend on how good they are about getting
    everything back where the factory put it, without breaking stuff.

    I know a high price doesn't equate to good work either, but the good mechanics usually won't be
    wanting to deal with price-shopping clients.

    The real advantage to doing it yourself is you're more likely to spend the time to straighten out
    things you find while you've got it apart. When I did my '85 Vert, I completely cleaned all the
    HVAC ductwork, and repaired the wiring that was hacked up by an earlier car alarm installer.
    Plus I made my ammeter work again.
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
    2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
    '68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
    And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune

  3. #78
    FEP Super Member Gemini1999's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JACook View Post
    $400 seems a little low to me. I'd be concerned about the quality of the work. A factory heater
    core will easily eat up $85 of that, and the rest will depend on how good they are about getting
    everything back where the factory put it, without breaking stuff.

    I know a high price doesn't equate to good work either, but the good mechanics usually won't be
    wanting to deal with price-shopping clients.

    The real advantage to doing it yourself is you're more likely to spend the time to straighten out
    things you find while you've got it apart. When I did my '85 Vert, I completely cleaned all the
    HVAC ductwork, and repaired the wiring that was hacked up by an earlier car alarm installer.
    Plus I made my ammeter work again.
    Jeff -

    That 400.00 quote was labor only. I already have all the parts for the swap. I agree - doing a swap on my own would allow me to replace the speakers and put a factory radio back in and get that wiring sorted out properly. I would prefer to do it myself because I know I would take more care than a stranger would do.
    Bryan

    1983 Mustang GLX Convertible

  4. #79

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    Great write-up. I am going to tackle this shortly. Thanks again Jeremy.

  5. #80

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    Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk
    Jeremy
    -86 mustang SSP X CHP Unit # 3788-bone stock & staying that way
    -66 Mustang, bench seat car,8.8,t5 fuel injected 92 engine
    -72 Maverick 5.0 resto in process
    -12SS Camaro 6 speed. 600 FWHP, Kraftwerks Supercharger
    -03 z71 Avalanche 9" lift on 35s Daily Driven 20k a year. 290k miles at 11.8 mpg
    Entire 1986 electrical and vacuum troubleshooting manual download
    http://slantnosefox.com/picturehosti...g%20manual.zip

  6. #81

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    dam, this is why of the reason why I dont replace my heater core
    Always Stay Humble. -Sinister-

  7. #82

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    Quote Originally Posted by Killagt View Post
    dam, this is why of the reason why I dont replace my heater core
    Its not that hard. I followed the instructions here and in the heater core thread exactly and I did it in about six hours straight from start to finish. It isn't that complicated, just lots of screws. If you have a laptop that you can carry out to the car pull this thread up and follow it step by step, that helped me a lot. Also someone to help hold the dash when you start putting it back in would have saved me a lot of trouble from doing it by myself.
    1986 Mustang LX convertible 3.8L V6 C4 auto
    1975 Ford Gran Torino 351W C4
    1995 Ford F150 XL 5.0L 4R70W
    2015 Mustang 3.7L V6/auto

  8. #83

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    Quote Originally Posted by free1986 View Post
    Its not that hard. I followed the instructions here and in the heater core thread exactly and I did it in about six hours straight from start to finish. It isn't that complicated, just lots of screws. If you have a laptop that you can carry out to the car pull this thread up and follow it step by step, that helped me a lot. Also someone to help hold the dash when you start putting it back in would have saved me a lot of trouble from doing it by myself.
    how come car company never put the heater core some where on engine bay, alway have to put in the dash ?
    Always Stay Humble. -Sinister-

  9. #84
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    Hi all, I have a quick question:

    I found a couple dash panels (the ones that resemble wood) for my car, I know the driver´s side is very easy to swap, with only 3 screws holding it, but how do I change the passenger side? My brother says I have to take the whole dash down to reach the screws on the inside. Is there an easier way without having to "tear down" the whole dash?

    thanks

  10. #85

    Default

    If memory serves, u.can pull the glove box door off and reach.up and get to those nuts..difficult but not impossible

    Sent from my C6916 using Tapatalk
    Jeremy
    -86 mustang SSP X CHP Unit # 3788-bone stock & staying that way
    -66 Mustang, bench seat car,8.8,t5 fuel injected 92 engine
    -72 Maverick 5.0 resto in process
    -12SS Camaro 6 speed. 600 FWHP, Kraftwerks Supercharger
    -03 z71 Avalanche 9" lift on 35s Daily Driven 20k a year. 290k miles at 11.8 mpg
    Entire 1986 electrical and vacuum troubleshooting manual download
    http://slantnosefox.com/picturehosti...g%20manual.zip

  11. #86
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    The only thing I was not able to accomplish doing this was get to the back of the speedometer cable to release it. Guess my hands are too big. It ended up that I did not have to anyway as I was able to side the dash out of the way enough anyway. Epoxy glue has been my best friend during this process to correct any cracks or breaks in the plastic.

  12. #87

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    Quote Originally Posted by 84GT350CONV View Post
    The only thing I was not able to accomplish doing this was get to the back of the speedometer cable to release it. Guess my hands are too big. It ended up that I did not have to anyway as I was able to side the dash out of the way enough anyway. Epoxy glue has been my best friend during this process to correct any cracks or breaks in the plastic.
    you were probably trying to reach between the cluster and dash hull to release it. That is not how you do it. There is a HUGE hole BEHIND the dash just above and in front of the pedal assembly. You have tons and tons of room to reach up with the cluster still screwed to the dash and release it. Go try it now that you have your car back together and you will quickly go DOH! - face palm.
    Liberty once lost is lost forever.

    John Adams
    July 7, 1775

  13. #88

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    Damn it I've been doing it wrong for decades

    Sent from my C6916 using Tapatalk
    Jeremy
    -86 mustang SSP X CHP Unit # 3788-bone stock & staying that way
    -66 Mustang, bench seat car,8.8,t5 fuel injected 92 engine
    -72 Maverick 5.0 resto in process
    -12SS Camaro 6 speed. 600 FWHP, Kraftwerks Supercharger
    -03 z71 Avalanche 9" lift on 35s Daily Driven 20k a year. 290k miles at 11.8 mpg
    Entire 1986 electrical and vacuum troubleshooting manual download
    http://slantnosefox.com/picturehosti...g%20manual.zip

  14. #89
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    very nice..going to save this for reference.

  15. #90
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    Finally got around to removing one of these from an 85 donor. Now to get it swapped into my 86 swap project. Should be exciting.

    Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

  16. #91
    FEP Senior Member cb650's Avatar
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    I wish I would have seen this before I did mine. Well at least now I know where my leftover parts go.

  17. #92
    FEP Power Member mustangmania's Avatar
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    Great thread! I was wondering if it is possible to remove the bottom plastic part of the dash without removing the whole thing? See arrow in pic below.

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    1986 Mustang GT w/T-Tops

  18. #93
    FEP Super Member mustangxtreme's Avatar
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    No. The dash hull is one piece.
    Dave

    If common sense was common wouldn't it just be sense?

    1983 Capri L T top 5.0 efi aod
    1983 Capri RS Turbo
    1981 Black Magic 400 c6
    93 F-250 351 5sp 4x4

  19. #94
    FEP Power Member mustangmania's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mustangxtreme View Post
    No. The dash hull is one piece.
    Can I remove the entire lower piece without removing the metal structure? That plastic piece just screws to the hull.
    1986 Mustang GT w/T-Tops

  20. #95
    FEP Super Member Gemini1999's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mustangmania View Post
    Can I remove the entire lower piece without removing the metal structure? That plastic piece just screws to the hull.
    You can do that, but you basically have to do quite a bit of prep to manage it. Things like removing the dash pad, instrument cluster, radio, etc. There is also a large extension that protrudes behind the instrument cluster that the dash wiring is supported by. It can be done, but it would be very time consuming. What are you trying to accomplish?
    Bryan

    1983 Mustang GLX Convertible

  21. #96
    FEP Power Member mustangmania's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gemini1999 View Post
    What are you trying to accomplish?
    Swapping out to black. I have a black panel and would like to not have to paint the Caramel one.
    1986 Mustang GT w/T-Tops

  22. #97

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    Quote Originally Posted by mustangmania View Post
    Swapping out to black. I have a black panel and would like to not have to paint the Caramel one.
    It's a sad day for caramel lovers (seeing that interior go away). We appreciate that you're trying to save the original caramel parts though. I'm sorry I keep protesting what you do with your car, I just really wish you liked that color as much as I do. Your interior is one of my all time favorites. Good luck with the swap, I'm sure it will look nice as well.
    Cheers!

    Mike (TopGear85)



    Have:
    85 Saleen #73-GT,2R,TuTone,Cruise,Pos,5spd,Charcoal
    ***August 2015 ROTM Winner!***

    Had:
    79PC-San Jose #2890
    86GT-9L,TuTone,5spd,T-Tops,Sand Beige
    86GT-9L,TuTone,5spd,T-Tops,Charcoal
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    90GT-Oxford Wht,5spd

  23. #98
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    FANTASTIC, I was about to ask for advice on changing my own heater core. There is a vid on late model restoration but they go through it too quick and make it look to tough. The way you posted these pic I feel I could do it myself.

  24. #99
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JACook View Post
    $400 seems a little low to me. I'd be concerned about the quality of the work. A factory heater
    core will easily eat up $85 of that, and the rest will depend on how good they are about getting
    everything back where the factory put it, without breaking stuff.

    I know a high price doesn't equate to good work either, but the good mechanics usually won't be
    wanting to deal with price-shopping clients.

    The real advantage to doing it yourself is you're more likely to spend the time to straighten out
    things you find while you've got it apart. When I did my '85 Vert, I completely cleaned all the
    HVAC ductwork, and repaired the wiring that was hacked up by an earlier car alarm installer.
    Plus I made my ammeter work again.
    what did you do to make the ammeter work?

  25. #100

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    The reason the ammeters stop working is because they work on a very small voltage, and it doesn't take much
    connector oxidation to make them not work. The easy bits are the connections on the instrument cluster. I
    remove the flex circuit and bathe it in white vinegar. I also bathe the gauge nuts, but not for long, or the plating
    will be damaged. When the oxidation is visibly removed, rinse everything well in plain water. When I reassemble
    the cluster, I wipe a thin coat of dielectric grease on the pads around the gauge screw posts, on the pads around
    the light sockets, and on each connector pad.

    In the left horizontal instrument cluster connector, you will find a red/orange wire, and a yellow/light green wire.
    These feed the ammeter. I remove them from the connector, and dip them in a shot glass of white vinegar, then
    once they're looking clean, let them sit in plain water for a bit, then put them back into the connector, and wipe
    a thin coat of dielectric grease on the contact surface.

    The next bit is where the dash needs to be out. The red/orange and yellow/light green wires pass through a
    brown 6-pin connector on the pork chop brace. I remove these pins from both connectors, and give them the
    same white vinegar dip, and also scrub the female pin with a small bore brush or pipe cleaners. These also get
    the dielectric grease treatment as well.

    I can't say that I would pull out the dash to do all this, but if you've already got the dash out, it's a small amount
    of extra work, and you get to enjoy the relative novelty of an ammeter that works.
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
    2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
    '68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
    And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune

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