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  1. #1

    Default step by step dash removal with pictures

    Hello all, I'm in process of writing this up now, so ignore if not complete....I'll edit this as I go.

    This is a step by step instruction to go with my other article, heater core removal/replacement found here:

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=20497

    I am writing this up simply because Many have to remove or lower their dash, and often wind up taking out every screw and nut, including all the ones that don't need to come off. I know I did, that's for sure. This is an extremely easy process, so don't be intimidated.

    1. the first step is to remove the inst cluster cover. I have circled the areas where the philips screw will need to be removed. After these screws are out, simply pull the cover towards you, and lift up and it'll come straight out.



    2. The next step is to remove the dash pad. This shot is from the bottom. Remove the philips screws i've circles, also the far left one not pictured. These can be accessed after the inst cluster cover is removed



    3. Remove the 4 philips screws shown and GENTLY pull the dash pad off



    here I have circled on the corners to remove the philips screws to release the inst cluster..NOTE removal of inst cluster may not be necessary if you are just swinging the dash out of the way. You will likely have to pop off the speedo cable though. Also, for re-install, pop the hood and take out the bolt that fastens the speed cable to the strut tower near the headers. this will allow the cable to come out of the dash more and install easier.



    Here is a nice shot of the speedo cable. To release the inst cluster, you must pull it forward towards you as far as it will go. Reach behind and feel the tab on the speedo cable (I have it circled below). Pushing on this tab will allow you to release and pull the speedo cable out. After that, the inst cluster will pull out a little more where it will show you the two main harnesses you must remove next. Pull out on both tabs and the cable will pull out. Don't be a retard like me and break the clips such as I've done.
    FYI...Now is a great time to check and replace any burnt out bulbs.



    remove the heater switches. (again, this may or may not be necessary...you'll have to determine if you have enough slack when the dash lowers...if you don't, this should free some slack up) Remove the 4 screws that hold on the heater switches (carefully, as the corners break easily!!) You'll have to remove a couple of connectors and the cable behind it, which is all pictured below




    From here, I'd probably start on the top dash screws. Use a screwdriver such as pictured below, otherwise you'll be slamming the windshield with the screwdriver...


    2 screws on the right side near the speaker..>NOTE: no need to remove any screws other than what I have circled. These other screws do other things not pertinent to removing the dash.



    one in the middle



    and two more on the left.....that's it as far as the bolts for the top of the dash



    NOTE: there are two screws on the very sides of the dash that mate up to the door..below is a lousy picture of these. These do NOT need to be removed!!



    Next, I'd probably start with the main mounting points....There are two bolts, one on either side on the piller just above the kick panel....Here is where the first goes on the pass side...remove this bolt



    and here is the other one that must be removed:



    another on the very bottom right under the glove box

    No picture of this anymore, but it's on the bottom of the dash facing the carpet.

    and finally the last one...This one can only be accessed after the steering column has been dropped...this view is looking at it from the backside of the dash

    Last edited by v8only; 08-05-2009 at 01:00 AM.
    Jeremy
    -86 mustang SSP X CHP Unit # 3788-bone stock & staying that way
    -66 Mustang, bench seat car,8.8,t5 fuel injected 92 engine
    -72 Maverick 5.0 resto in process
    -12SS Camaro 6 speed. 600 FWHP, Kraftwerks Supercharger
    -03 z71 Avalanche 9" lift on 35s Daily Driven 20k a year. 290k miles at 11.8 mpg
    Entire 1986 electrical and vacuum troubleshooting manual download
    http://slantnosefox.com/picturehosti...g%20manual.zip

  2. #2
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    Great pics and instuctions! You might add that if this is for a heater core job the cluster does not have to come out.

  3. #3

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    to lower the steering column...there are two nuts that must be remove from the studs pictured below. Remove these nuts, and the hood pop handle will lower down. Next, remove the two nuts under that, and the other two nuts on the back bracket. the steering column will now lower down. In the pic below, I've circled the stud near my finger...that, and the stud not pictured to the right are the ones that have the hood pop that you must unbolt to get to the other nuts. The back bracket is also shown



    if the headlight switch needs to be removed, turn the knob all the way to the left like you were going to turn on the dome light.

    reach under and push the button circled below while pulling out on the headlight knob. it'll slide right out. After that, screw out the retainer ring, and the headlight switch can be removed from under the dash...after disconnecting the connector




    That's all I've got folks...see the article linked above for pic by pic heater core swap. If anyone has anything I've forgotten, please chime in!!!!

    the dash should swing down now far enough to access the heater core. Also, if the dash needs to be completely removed, it's as easy as unscrewing the two grounds from the frame, and a couple of switches near the glove box, and carefully snaking out the harness.
    Last edited by v8only; 08-05-2009 at 01:03 AM.
    Jeremy
    -86 mustang SSP X CHP Unit # 3788-bone stock & staying that way
    -66 Mustang, bench seat car,8.8,t5 fuel injected 92 engine
    -72 Maverick 5.0 resto in process
    -12SS Camaro 6 speed. 600 FWHP, Kraftwerks Supercharger
    -03 z71 Avalanche 9" lift on 35s Daily Driven 20k a year. 290k miles at 11.8 mpg
    Entire 1986 electrical and vacuum troubleshooting manual download
    http://slantnosefox.com/picturehosti...g%20manual.zip

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by efd guido View Post
    Great pics and instuctions! You might add that if this is for a heater core job the cluster does not have to come out.
    good info, although the speedo cable will have to be removed..fyi, I've never lowered it before, I've always completely removed, because it was coming out for other reasons too
    Jeremy
    -86 mustang SSP X CHP Unit # 3788-bone stock & staying that way
    -66 Mustang, bench seat car,8.8,t5 fuel injected 92 engine
    -72 Maverick 5.0 resto in process
    -12SS Camaro 6 speed. 600 FWHP, Kraftwerks Supercharger
    -03 z71 Avalanche 9" lift on 35s Daily Driven 20k a year. 290k miles at 11.8 mpg
    Entire 1986 electrical and vacuum troubleshooting manual download
    http://slantnosefox.com/picturehosti...g%20manual.zip

  5. #5

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    goo write up! Going to help me for sure since I have to dye the dash in my car.

  6. #6
    FEP Senior Member KAILUAZ's Avatar
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    Nice, I used a coping saw to make it quicker hahaha.
    911 NEVER FORGET!!
    MILStang

  7. #7
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    Finally....the secret is revealed...and I won't have to break out the maul. lol

    Might take a shot at this tomorrow night now.

  8. #8

    Default

    Great writeup. I'll be doing this next summer, so I saved the entire page (w/pics) because old threads here lose the pics after awhile.
    Len

    1980 Capri 2.3
    1983 Mustang GT

  9. #9
    FEP Member 86_302's Avatar
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    just in time! i have to swap heater core(again) when i bring my car back home
    its always nice to have a reference
    1986 beige lx 5.0 conversion - 306ci. edelbrock 1.94 performer rpm aluminum heads, performer rpm airgap intake, performer rpm cam, roller rockers,moroso oil pan, edelbrock 600cfm carb, bbk shorties, offroad h-pipe, flowmaster 40 series mufflers 2.5 pipes, holley high flow fuel pump, T-5 tranny, 8.8 rear with 3.73 gears,aluminum rad, driveshaft loop, weld in sub-fram connectors, 5-bolt cragar SS wheels
    best run: 13.3 at 101.6mphhttp://www.youtube.com/jakesmustang1986

  10. #10

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    great instructions. one bolt left will have out. Had to stop to go to church. Dash that is, still some work to do to get the heater core replaced.

  11. #11

    Default

    sweet. Make sure you see my other article on replacing that core... good luck!
    Jeremy
    -86 mustang SSP X CHP Unit # 3788-bone stock & staying that way
    -66 Mustang, bench seat car,8.8,t5 fuel injected 92 engine
    -72 Maverick 5.0 resto in process
    -12SS Camaro 6 speed. 600 FWHP, Kraftwerks Supercharger
    -03 z71 Avalanche 9" lift on 35s Daily Driven 20k a year. 290k miles at 11.8 mpg
    Entire 1986 electrical and vacuum troubleshooting manual download
    http://slantnosefox.com/picturehosti...g%20manual.zip

  12. #12

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    man that is funny you just did a write up on this because i just tore out my whole dash this weekend. And like you i broke clips ands took out every screw. It wasn't all that bad i took out all the duct work, the heater core, blower motor and all the other stuff i don't need or use anymore.. I started pulling the wiring harness out and get rid of all the wiring i don't use. I have been trying to clean all the wiring up and labeling where stuff goes so that when its all done i will will where everything is and when i have a problem i will beable to go right to the source..


    [IMG]http://i30.tinypic.com/66ajvt.jpg[/IMG

    <<1985 mustang gt, 5 speed t-tops.
    The Objects In The Mirrors Are Losing.......

  13. #13

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    wow don't know whats the deal with the size of those pictures..
    <<1985 mustang gt, 5 speed t-tops.
    The Objects In The Mirrors Are Losing.......

  14. #14
    FEP Senior Member AaronATX's Avatar
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    Bump for ya, and when I did this I removed a bunch of stuff I didnt have to... nice info.

    Here's a pic of my firewall puking its guts out! Wooo!

    No more 4eyes

    Some crappy 90 HCI coupe for now.

  15. #15

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    wow you did take it all out..lol
    <<1985 mustang gt, 5 speed t-tops.
    The Objects In The Mirrors Are Losing.......

  16. #16
    gray86hatch
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    Quote Originally Posted by AaronATX View Post
    Bump for ya, and when I did this I removed a bunch of stuff I didnt have to... nice info.

    Here's a pic of my firewall puking its guts out! Wooo!

    I am having trouble with my dash reinstall and have one plug that I can't find a home for. I can see it in your picture. it is the brown plug to the lt of the colume. 6 wires blu/blk, org/yellow, red/green, green/wht, white/pnk, blk. It comes out of the main harness that goes up and over the dash to the rt side of the car.

    If anyone knows what this is for that would be a big help

    Thanks
    Tim

  17. #17
    Venomous Moderator Hissing Cobra's Avatar
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    I've got my dash out right now and when the time comes to reinstall it, I'll need my brother's help so that I don't scratch it up. Not a fun job!
    Pete Slaney

    1979 Mustang Cobra

    347/T-5/4.30's
    420 rwhp/380 rwt (New Motor)
    11.49 @ 121.86

    306/T-5/4.30's (Old Motor)
    307 rwhp/278 rwt
    12.38 @ 111.38

  18. #18
    FEP Super Member TWR2003's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gray86hatch View Post
    I am having trouble with my dash reinstall and have one plug that I can't find a home for. I can see it in your picture. it is the brown plug to the lt of the colume. 6 wires blu/blk, org/yellow, red/green, green/wht, white/pnk, blk. It comes out of the main harness that goes up and over the dash to the rt side of the car.

    If anyone knows what this is for that would be a big help

    Thanks
    Tim
    Back of AC/heater contols?
    T
    Last edited by TWR2003; 04-01-2008 at 11:09 AM.

  19. #19
    FEP Senior Member Flash Gordan's Avatar
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    This should be stickied as well.
    Quote Originally Posted by Evil86lx
    I wasnt masturbating. I was cleaning it and it went off.
    WARNING
    Horsepower is addictive
    10-hole mafia and wannabe post whore

  20. #20
    FEP Member supergordo's Avatar
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    Thanks Jeremy.
    I had an idea how it would all come apart. This will make the whole deal easier.
    1985 Capri RS 5.0 5 Speed
    1994 Thunderbird LX 4.6
    1978 Country Squire 7.5
    2004 Mustang GT 4.6

  21. #21

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    Jeremy
    -86 mustang SSP X CHP Unit # 3788-bone stock & staying that way
    -66 Mustang, bench seat car,8.8,t5 fuel injected 92 engine
    -72 Maverick 5.0 resto in process
    -12SS Camaro 6 speed. 600 FWHP, Kraftwerks Supercharger
    -03 z71 Avalanche 9" lift on 35s Daily Driven 20k a year. 290k miles at 11.8 mpg
    Entire 1986 electrical and vacuum troubleshooting manual download
    http://slantnosefox.com/picturehosti...g%20manual.zip

  22. #22
    FEP Power Member grtskydog's Avatar
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    Great writeup...saved to my drive. I'll look for your HC writeup. It's just a matter of time.
    Ed

    "The Dude abides."

  23. #23

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    heads and cam swap?? SHoot, never thought of that. I didn't really take enough pictures for a writeup
    Jeremy
    -86 mustang SSP X CHP Unit # 3788-bone stock & staying that way
    -66 Mustang, bench seat car,8.8,t5 fuel injected 92 engine
    -72 Maverick 5.0 resto in process
    -12SS Camaro 6 speed. 600 FWHP, Kraftwerks Supercharger
    -03 z71 Avalanche 9" lift on 35s Daily Driven 20k a year. 290k miles at 11.8 mpg
    Entire 1986 electrical and vacuum troubleshooting manual download
    http://slantnosefox.com/picturehosti...g%20manual.zip

  24. #24
    FEP Power Member grtskydog's Avatar
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    LOL

    Heater Core!
    Ed

    "The Dude abides."

  25. #25

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    Anyone have this saved as a pdf or something? I'm not seeing all of the images.
    ~Tony~

    1986 GT Regatta Blue w/ Gray Interior
    1985 GT Black T-Tops w/ Gray Interior - Originally "1E"


    R.I.P.
    1985 LX Jalapeņo Red Hatchback w/ Red Interior - My first and still favorite!

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