Friday is the day

[SchoolBoy]

As for subframes, there are tons out there, I personaly went with the steeda full lenght connecters that have seat braces, part number #555-5245 $149.95. I personally have them and love em, doors close easly, and it fixed the 1 inch sagg in the middle of the car! As for heads it really comes down to how much your willing to spend. You said that your motor is a replacement, so it might have the E-7 heads now, so a pair of iron gt-40 are the cheapest bang for the buck. Next up being the edelbrock performer heads; twisted wedge heads; and finally the AFR 165cc heads, all of witch are aluminum. I personally am going to run the AFR's on my new motor, and there are a fair amount of users here that have them. Anthonydalrymple uses them on his daily driver and has logged alot of miles on them, so they are long lasting. They also can be had in emision leagal form and have two camber sizes to pick from 58 and 61cc. To get the heads on and working you will need the complete heads-$1430 "includes springs and valves", 7/16th arp rocker studs "suggested by afr" $19, Ford scorpian RR $207, felpro head gaskets $64 pr, Intake gasket $21, Head stud kit ARP $89, grand total is $1830. Then depending on your top end a edelbrock rpm manifold, 600cfm carb, bigger fuel pump, new cam, and exhaust will round it out nicely. You can probably put the hole package together for $2780 depending on how you shop. Stuff like the carb, intake and headers and be had second hand for cheap. The big killer is if you are a roller motor, the cam is going to run ya $250+. But power will come out in the 290-300 rwhp range.

[GearedUp]

Love seeing this stuff. Great thread!

Sweet Project.

[peicaprilover]

keep the pictures coming, i love these type of threads, i'll be doing the same to another foxbody this winter. there may not be a ton of comments but check out how many people view it, we all love these threads. good work and it's looking great, i'll be checking back in here for sure.

[Hissing Cobra]

I'm just looking at this thread for the first time. NICE! I can't wait to see it in it's finished form. I'm sure it'll look mint!

[Shadow 1]

Hadn't thought about sub-frames. I'll ask the restoration guy. He's been doing this for 20+ years. Can you recommend some heads? What am I looking at cost? It's in the hands of Butch the restoration guy to put it back together I am confident he knows. Not looking to race the car. But making it a bit more powerful might be nice

I'm like you, I want to be a bit more powerful but I have no intentions of racing it. Wow, looks good so far, this is the first I've seen of this post. I can't wait to see the progress. It's like watching MrJoshua's car all over again! I got one question though, I'm just curious, why is some of the engine parts wrapped in what appears to be aluminum foil? Is it better than using paper and tape?

[captnet]

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[captnet]

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[Shadow 1]

I think he used aluminum foil because it was easier. Have to ask if better for other reasons as well.

Thanks for the encouragement. Think I'm going with Windsor jr's and Edelbrock performer intake for a bit more juice with current exhaust and cam setup. Can always change those out later. Have to draw a line somewhere for now. Obviously not looking to race either but nice to have some more umph.

"Power when you need it" is how I look at it. Yea, I'd like to know about the foil, I gotta start doing my car this winter. I think I'm going with a stealth intake and GT40 heads when I get the chance. ujslost was telling me that even the iron GT40 heads give you a big gain in the power dept. I'm also planning on a flowmaster exhaust system when I get the funds for it.

[captnet]

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[superhighoutput]

This is a great thread

[Shadow 1]

Thought about the GT40 heads and the GT40P heads and aluminum GT40
303 and 305X heads... and... and... spent several days and learned a fair amount. Decided on the Windsor Jr's today after confirming with restoration guy being ok with my selection. Going with:

Windsor Jr cylinder heads #053030-1
http://www.worldcastings.com/prods_pages/053030.htm

Edelbrock performer w/EGR intage #3721
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_..._sb_perf.shtml

Crane 1.6 roller rocker arms
http://www.cranecams.com/?show=brows...umber=11746-16

ARP head bolts

Resto guy getting gaskets, pushrods, building it, and putting bigger jets in the stock carb to accomodate the larger intake.

Stock roller cam, stock headers, Y pipe setup with high flow CAT and flowmaster 40's all 2 1/2 pipe.

Aside from various freshening to the engine. i.e. new flywheel, clutch set, tune parts, fuel pump, starter. Think that will do it.

Additional thoughts please let me know!

Oh shoot forgot to ask him today about the tinfoil wrap advantages. I'll let you know.

That will be great, thanks! For some reason I don't know what else I'm going to do with it, I guess I haven't thought ahead that far. That and I need an engine first.

[captnet]

Bumper's painted




Much of the car and various pieces in primer:




















Engine coming apart for upgrades:






Check back again next week for pictures of underside and wheel wells being cleaned, wire wheeled, treated, primed and more painting!

[Shadow 1]

It's hard for me to tell but is the front windshield taken out?

[captnet]

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[Shadow 1]

Yes! Bought a new replacement the original had some nicks.

Resto guy said reason for using the tinfoil is it's faster then using paper and tape. I suppose both are equally effective for masking. A technique he learned from a buddy who painted carnival rides.

That hatch is getting the glass from the original hatch on the car The glass on the replacement hatch had major scratches.

Bob

Ah, thought the front windshield looked a little flat,. That's one heck of an idea then, with the tin foil. I'm going to have to do that, I gotta do my engine bay soon. Oh, is that why there is overspray on the back hatch glass?

[captnet]

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[Shadow 1]

Right that glass is getting ditched. Glass in original hatch good. Two fenders, hatch, rear bumper cover (from Roughbutfun), and air dam (from JJBumpers), and both doors are replacements.

Ah. Your replacing as much as I am, if not more. I should post this question but do you know if the front bumper skin can be flexed back in place if it's bent? The bottom of mine is distorted due to some damage from the previous owner.

[captnet]

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[Shadow 1]

I was hopeing to avoid buying another bumper skin. I've already got the original GT bumper that's bent out of shape and I've got a better condition LX one but I'm trying to avoid putting that one on.

[Curtis]

Great thread. I too am the original owner of an 85. They kind of become part of the family! I saw that you are staying with the Y pipe and not going with an H or X pipe. Maybe it is a budget limit but I thing the y pipe with be very limiting since you are gong with higher flowing heads. I just took the original Y pipe off of mine 2 years ago and went with bbk catted h pipe and 50 series flows. It really made a difference, even with the stock engine.

[captnet]

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[captnet]

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[Shadow 1]

Just looked at it. About the same price in the mag's too. That's $400 I can use to get my engine, you know. Buying another one is a last resort. I would put on the LX bumper first, don't want to but I will. You ever notice how the 85-86 GT bumpers almost always seem to cost more than any other bumper?

[captnet]

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[Shadow 1]

I'm afraid to look, if I could find it that is. You know it's expensive when in a mag they list all the prices except for yours, on yours it says "call".