Explorer Engine into a Stang

[blackgt85]

My buddy wants to pick up a complete 99 Explorer engine for his Stang. What mods need to be done to use the Explorer intake and throttle body???? The car has mass air SEFI and a 5 speed. Thanks.


Justin

[MurPHy]

The intake is a direct bolt on. Note that it will make your EGR system inoperable.

The throttle body is a bit different than the Mustang one. A bit of work will be required to make it fit.

[mutantcapri1979]

not 2 threadjack but, why can't u use a aftermarket mustang style? or can u?

[anthonydalrymple]

not 2 threadjack but, why can't u use a aftermarket mustang style? or can u?

if you are speaking of an aftermarket Mustang throttle body?
Then yes; you can.....
But, on a seriously tight budget? The stock 65mm throttlebody from the Exploder can be modified to work on your steed.......
BTW- Have you priced throttle bodies lately? They've gotten quite pricey lately.....

[85mcLaren]

Isn't there other things as well - like the oil pan, etc..... Can't remember. It's been years since my friend and I did that swap....

Jason

[bluebolt]

To swap a Explorer motor into a 1979-1993 Mustang you will need to swap out the oil pan, front cover, oil pump drive stub (that takes the place of a distributer) and harmonic balancer. It also has an oil cooler that connects to the water pump that you will probably want to remove. You can sell the front cover, oil pump drive and oil cooler fairly easy on Ebay or Corner Carvers. Then you will have to replace all those peices with Fox pieces. If you want to use the stock Explorer throttle body you have to weld a small piece onto the linkage to make it work on a Mustang. Since this is a 1999 engine it will have the 96 1/2 up GT40P heads and may need different exhaust headers due to the different spark plug angle.

[paul78zephyr]

My buddy wants to pick up a complete 99 Explorer engine for his Stang. What mods need to be done to use the Explorer intake and throttle body???? The car has mass air SEFI and a 5 speed. Thanks.


Justin

OK,
Ill be an a@@hole here and ask:
why doesnt your buddy want to pick up a complete STANG engine for his Stang? Cant find one, or he likes to spend a shirtload of dough on conversion parts?

Paul

[fede85gt]

here goes:

5.0 EXPLORER ENGINE IN TO FOX BODY SWAP FAQ´S

Since more frequently I see the same basic questions popping up, and lot of board members contributing with very good information on the subject, I will try to compile to the best of my knowledge and experience a guide for swapping an explorer 5.0 engine in to a fox body mustang based on my current project car. Please feel free to add or correct any information.

What year of explorers came with the 5.0 engine?
1996 to 2000 (please correct me if Im wrong)

What are the advantages of using an explorer engine?
Well for starters you can get either variation of the GT40 heads which offer a performance gain, you may find a low mileage motor that wouldn’t give you any problems for a long time, they are cheaper than doing a rebuild on you current engine if an overbore is required.
Some explorer engines come with an engine oil cooler ala special service mustangs so that’s another added bonus, it just plumbs in to you’re lower radiator hose and that’s it!!!!


Please note: These engines came with hyper pistons so please consider this if you’re planning on running boost (supercharger or turbo) or nitrous.


How much should I expect to pay for an explorer long block?
The explorer engines are plentiful in the salvage yards and some with very low mileage (a lot of rollover vehicles),In my personal case the day I decided to buy the engine, with cash in hand, I found no less than 6 engines in 4 hours, you can usually find them in the $500 to $600 dollar range for a complete long block (in my area). Remember that if you are going to run it carbureted, you can easily sell the Intake, Throttle body (65 MM), and injectors (19 LB/HR), you can usually get $200 + dollars for all of the components so you can subs tract that from the price you paid 


How do I know which type of GT40 heads I got with my long block?
Very simple regular GT40 heads have 3 vertical lines cast in to the right lower corner of the head they came on the 95 to 96 explorer v8, GT40P heads came on the 97 and up 5.0 v8 explorers and have 4 vertical lines cast in the same location, also you can find the legend GT40P cast on various parts of the head as opposed to just GT on the pre ´97 heads.







Should I port my GT40 heads?
GT40 heads are a proven winner compared to stock e7 heads, having better intake and exhaust runners, larger valves and several other improvements, so out of the box they are a great bang for the buck, but then again as with everything else, there’s always room for improvement, it all depends on you’re goals. There’s an excellent write up on www.diyporting.com for GT40 and GT40P heads, if you’re mechanically inclined give it a try.

Which Headers can I use with GT40 heads?
Well if you got the regular GT40 heads 3 bars, here’s the good news is any stock or aftermarket stock replacement header will work be it short (equal or unequal) or long tubes!!!!!
Now comes the sad part, while the GT40P head is suppose to be the best GT40 head out there, it needs P-specific headers, there’s been a lot of debate about some long tube headers fitting with out a problem (MAC and BBK), others say that that you need wires with 90 deg. Boots, I haven’t tested them yet. The issues that come up are interference with spark plug removal, and burned plug wires.

None of the stock type replacement shortie headers (equal or unequal length) work properly. I’ve mocked up old school FMS Stainless Steel headers, and BBK shorties and they wont work, don’t believe what they say that with “minor tweaking” they will work, not true, some tubes need major dimpling , not even worth damaging a good set headers.

Now the general opinion is that you’re better off just running the P specific headers in the first place either from FRPP at around $239 dlls. for painted ones or $290 for Jet hot coated ones, or the MAC´S that I usually see on eBay for around $280 with ceramic coatings, so you make the call.

I’ve been trying to find a set of used P specific shortie headers reasonably priced ,used , for almost a year now with no luck 

Which items do I need to change on my explorer 5.0 in order to swap it in my fox mustang?
There are several items that need to be replaced with fox specific parts in order to drop in your explorer 5.0 engine in your fox body mustang, if you currently have you’re engine you can just bolt them to the explorer engine after previously inspecting.

If and when you decide to tear in to you’re explorer engine or take off the valve covers please note: the valve cover gaskets are reusable and expensive at about $35 dlls. a set (metal core with rubber) so don’t throw them away!!!!

1.- You will need to put your fox 5.0 oil pan (dual hump), oil pump pick up tube with screen, oil pan gasket, oil pan dipstick tube, and at the same time for safe cheap insurance replace the oil pump and oil pump drive shaft while your at it.


2.-At a minimum you will need a stock mustang 5.0 HO camshaft, the explorer specific cam is no good for performance applications, or even consider any of the popular off the shelf cams TFS or FRPP to name a few, just remember to upgrade your valve springs accordingly if you want to avoid any valve float, there’s a trick flow kit P/N TFS-2500100 that contains springs that will handle a cam up to .542 lift, includes all the appropriate retainers, and valve guide seals, for $129 these seems to be the best bang for the buck, you decide..
Replace at you’re consideration while you are doing the cam swap: the timing chain, also consider if you’re running a carbed set up, you will need to put the cam eccentric to drive the mechanical fuel pump, don’t be surprised if you don’t have any fuel pressure if you don’t put it in 
You can reuse you’re roller lifters, stamped valve rockers and pushrod at you’re own criteria



If and when you are removing the heads remember that these engines use torque to yield head bolts, meaning that they are not reusable, take the time to replace them at least with ARP head bolts, or a minimum grade 8 replacement found on any Fastener specialty business.

3.-You will need to put a fox specific timing cover on the explorer 5.0 , along with a damper, crank pulley, fox water pump, and a distributor, please remember that the distributor needs to have the drive gear that is compatible with a billet roller cam, if not you can destroy your engine at initial start u, not good.

4.-If your running a 5 spd. Tranny remember that all explorer are automatics, so you need to ditch the flex plate, drop in a pilot bushing, and just for safe measure replace the rear main oil seal while your at it.

5.-Replace the intake manifold if you are running a carbureted set up, any carbed intake will work, there are several threads on this board regarding the issue(i.e. weiand stealth, edelbrock performer rpm), so again you make the call, I would highly recommend port matching the intake manifold to the heads, some improvement can be had here.

6.-Consider replacing plugs and seals while the engine is out of the vehicle , cheap insurance again …..

7.-Use you’re fox specific engine mounts.

[MurPHy]

OK,
Ill be an a@@hole here and ask:
why doesnt your buddy want to pick up a complete STANG engine for his Stang? Cant find one, or he likes to spend a shirtload of dough on conversion parts?

Paul

.......


302 Ford is a 302 Ford, doesn't matter what it came from. Most junkyards charge more for Mustang parts anyways. Truck parts (ie F-series, Explorer, etc) are usually much cheaper.

Having to swap the oil pan and pickup and a couple other Mustang parts isn't what I'd call a "shirtload" either, especially since you pretty much just cannibalize the parts from your original Mustang engine anyways, costing you the price of new gaskets.

[FoxChassis]

It'd be a helluva lot easier to swap heads and intakes.

[tripice351]

It'd be a helluva lot easier to swap heads and intakes.

Indeedy. Only time that doesn't apply is when the stock engine is wasted or missing altogether (as is the case in many project vehicles), and a new shortblock is needed anyway. The original poster didn't specify either way..

[v8only]

OK,
Ill be an a@@hole here and ask:
why doesnt your buddy want to pick up a complete STANG engine for his Stang? Cant find one, or he likes to spend a shirtload of dough on conversion parts?

Paul

lol, all the conversion parts, or nearly all come from your old block....perhaps someone didn't tell you that an explorer motor with a better cam is good for 300 or more at the flywheel....a SIGNFICANT amount more than a normal "stang" motor, in fact, why pay nearly the same amount for a regular old stang motor, when you could have a signficantly more powerful explorer motor?

[blackgt85]

Indeedy. Only time that doesn't apply is when the stock engine is wasted or missing altogether (as is the case in many project vehicles), and a new shortblock is needed anyway. The original poster didn't specify either way..

That is the case with my buddys car. It is a 93 GT and he got it with no engine or trans. We have access to an 86 5.0 engine to get the oil pan, timing cover and other various parts. The 86 5.0 is not rebuildable due to a huge and deep gouge in the cylinder wall. So we decided on getting an Explorer engine. Will a 5.0 Mustang throttle body bolt on no problem?? Thanks for the help so far guys!


Justin

[v8only]

yes it will, but it's going to be way restrictive for those heads and intake...but in a crunch it'll work fine.

[50 Proof]

OK,
Ill be an a@@hole here and ask:
why doesnt your buddy want to pick up a complete STANG engine for his Stang? Cant find one, or he likes to spend a shirtload of dough on conversion parts?

Paul

All the conversion parts are cheap or can mostly come from your old engine. An Explorer engine with a cam in a fox body can be a pretty potent combo. I have a 96 explorer engine with a TFS1 cam and 1.6 rockers. First two times I took it to the track I clicked off a 9.12 and an 8.70 in the 1/8 and that's with the stock MAF, no tune, and very minimal experience drag racing. After I get the car dyno tuned and increase my drag racing skills, very low 13's or high 12's should be quite attainable.

[MurPHy]

lol, all the conversion parts, or nearly all come from your old block....perhaps someone didn't tell you that an explorer motor with a better cam is good for 300 or more at the flywheel....a SIGNFICANT amount more than a normal "stang" motor, in fact, why pay nearly the same amount for a regular old stang motor, when you could have a signficantly more powerful explorer motor?

A Mustang 302 with GT40 heads and intake makes the same power as the Explorer. The only reason to swap the whole engine is if your original is beyond repair/use, or there isn't one. I myself didn't need a whole engine, just the important parts (heads, intake, and throttlebody).

I also suggest upgrading the fuel system. Mimicking the components used in the '93 Cobra is a wise route to go, since Ford left a LOT to work with on that combination (great intake system, horrible exhaust system).

[v8only]

A Mustang 302 with GT40 heads and intake makes the same power as the Explorer. The only reason to swap the whole engine is if your original is beyond repair/use, or there isn't one. I myself didn't need a whole engine, just the important parts (heads, intake, and throttlebody).

I also suggest upgrading the fuel system. Mimicking the components used in the '93 Cobra is a wise route to go, since Ford left a LOT to work with on that combination (great intake system, horrible exhaust system).

in the 4 eyed world, the ONLY motor that would be worth keeping would be the 85 roller block, as the 86 has the wrong pistons, and the rest are flat tappet......in my experience, if the user is messing around with an original 200k block, which is usually the case, I'd suggest any day to swap that explorer motor in in it's entirety, as generally they're low mileage motors with WELL under 100k on them....now if the owner of the stang has a fresh shortblock, hell yea, stick with that, and get your forged pistons too, but if it's anything over say 150-175k, although it may be fine, I wouldn't personally do an hci on that old of a block

[50 Proof]

I also suggest upgrading the fuel system. Mimicking the components used in the '93 Cobra is a wise route to go, since Ford left a LOT to work with on that combination (great intake system, horrible exhaust system).

The 93 Cobra has 24lb injectors. I've heard the stock 19lb injectors are good for up to 300hp. unless you are planning on building a motor with more than 275 - 300hp, upgarding to the 93 cobra fuel system is not necessary and isn't worth the expense.

[v8only]

i've also heard that the cobra cam is a bad choice, and that it is actually slightly worse than running a stock mustang HO cam...i'd love to hear if someone can verify this or not.

[bluebolt]

i've also heard that the cobra cam is a bad choice, and that it is actually slightly worse than running a stock mustang HO cam...i'd love to hear if someone can verify this or not.

I am fairly sure the Cobra cam is the same as the stock HO cam, the Cobra gets more lift by running Crane roller 1.7 ratio rockers

[85mcLaren]

no - the cam is not the same. The factory HO cam is actually better....

[Johnie Ryall]

i just dropped an explorer engine into my 86 gt. it has 0 miles on it never installed at the factory. It has a sticker on it from being test run at the engine plant in 10/98. the upper intake was broken, and missing pieces of it. the lower intake is useable, but no egr. i swapped the front cover, oil pan, and cam over to the explorer engine. i used the roller lifters,pushrods,and timing chain from the explorer. i used the oil pump with the pickup from the mustang. i'm using the intake/throttlebody and pcm,from from a 1988 mustang. new 19lb injectors. the factory headers will bolt up, but the driver's side header will need some work with a torch, and hammer to make clearance for the plug wires. i now have at least 1/2" from the tubes to the wire boots. the rest of the exhaust is going to be stock too. i plan to get the car back together and running, then i may start modifying. the P heads are not drilled for secondary air, so the tube connecting the heads will not attatch. most people will ditch the emissions, like secondary air, and egr anyway.