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  1. #101

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    Quote Originally Posted by BAD5oh View Post
    I just installed a 96 Cobra rear in my 86 and want to add some info from my experience. I had to purchase new soft lines for the rear but 1 side is not sold anymore. I never knew why until I went to the scrap yard. I found a 96 GT and found that the passenger side that I couldn't get in the store is where the split is also in those cars going to the driver side. What I did was use 2 left side hoses and new short 3/16 lines to the 86 factory split in the center. I had to buy 2 adaptors that the auto parts store had on shelf that was a 3/16" female to 3/16" male tube inverted flare to make the new lines from the center split work wit the 96 soft lines. Also using a left soft line on the right side I had to bend it slightly to keep out of the way of the control arm. The bend is slight and is not even close enough to kink the line. At the scrap yard there were no right side soft lines in good condition so thats why I went with 2 left side lines
    You could have also reused your stock 8.8 hard lines by bending them and then pick up some 94/95 GT Soft lines from Napa OR use 94/95 GT axle hard lines and softlines. Both options are pretty much a direct swap without any need for brake line adapters or fittings, etc.
    Last edited by 50 Proof; 07-16-2007 at 10:07 AM.
    Corey
    1965 Mustang
    1986 Mustang GT T-Tops - Explorer engine swap, MAF Conversion, 5 lug Cobra Brakes
    2001 True Blue Bullitt
    www.thompsontransmission.com - coming soon
    Fox Body Black Interior Interchangeability Guide

  2. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by Moving_Target View Post
    Ok, I've come across something helpful, I hope.

    I bought the 3/16" -> 1/4" adapter with the intention of using some old rear hard lines and putting a 3/16" inverted (reversed...whatever) flare nut on to
    connect the Town Car M/C to the prop valve/distribution block. I had mistakenly assumed that the flare nut on the hard line to soft line brass block was also 3/16" but it's actually a 3/16" tube to 1/4" nut. When I finished bending and flaring the replacement line, the nut I had installed wouldn't fit on the adapter I had just bought. I was fuming thinking I'd made a mistake but when I unscrewed the adapter from the master cylinder, just for the hell of it tried screwing the line in. It fit!! I didn't even need go chasing around the city for this stupid adapter because I had the right flare nut sitting on one of my old junk rear axle lines.

    Pictures to explain what I'm babbling about...

    1st pic is of a 3/16" inverted flare nut and the 3/16" to 1/4" adapter
    2nd pic is of the flare nut and adapter screwed into the M/C
    3rd pic is what the stock ('86 mustang) rear Master cylinder to prop valve line looks like
    4th pic is the line I made using some old rear brake line and fittings
    5th pic is what the line looks like screwed into the Master cylinder.

    Easy peasy... If you stumble onto it.

    Basically, you can go two routes:

    1)track down one of those adapters, cut off the 3/8" flare nut and flare the line with a 3/16" nut or
    2) take an old rear hardline, shorten it and reflare and bend it to shape and you're done.

    I'll take option #2 please.
    All I did was buy a 6" length of 1/4" line. It already had the right nuts/flares on both ends and after bending it up it fit perfectly into both the MC and PV. The larger line will allow me to move more fluid for the rear disks which is something you want anyway. My only hiccup is that the line going front to rear is 3/16". I haven't decided yet if I want to rerun that in 1/4" or not.
    "The fact that "replica" is written down the side of your gun, and "Desert Eagle point five oh" is written on the side of mine, should precipitate your balls into shrinking!"

  3. #103
    FEP Senior Member Moving_Target's Avatar
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    I wanted to keep the same inside diameter line as the factory. I'd heard of brake balance issues when you start changing the line sizes and I didn't want to create a new problem (call me a nancy boy). Besides, I had this chunk of line readily available to me.
    '86 Notch autocross beotch ( bucket of rust)
    '94 Crown Vic Winter Beater
    '93 Mustang Hatchback 2.3L 5spd

  4. #104

    Default rear axle ss brake lines

    I purchased my rear axle brake lines in stainlees steel , from Classic Tube.
    They can fabricate them and prebent it all .
    Note :for a 93 cobra mustang, also ordered mastercylinder prebent lines
    This is what ford used in the m2300 k kit
    MIKE

  5. #105

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    Here's what info I can give. With the 79-86 K members having the A Arm mounts moved in a bit, gives a little more flexibility to what spindles can be used. (I'm using 99 Spindles, sn95 A Arms, and a complete 94 Rear axle,and S197 Bullitt wheels 17x

    99 Spindles on stock A arms and K member: The Front tires were actually scraping the swaybar at full turn.


    Here's the stock K with sn95 A arms and 99 Spindles:


    I also had to swith to sn95 inner and outer tie rods to be able to have enough thread engagement. The inner tie rod is the longerpart, and the outer is the same as a fox, but the threads are metric, so both must be changed. Here is a comparison from the fox to the sn95 tie rod: (one side does have to be trimmed down a bit to fit properly.


    Here is an idea on how the tires fit with this setup, not the best pic. The rear looks wider, because I was running on a 99 v6 rear for a while, but with the 94 rear in there the track width is about even from front to back. I haven't had a chance to get new pictures yet.



    I noticed a immediate improvement in ride quality with the sn95 a arms over stock, even on the crappy eibach sportline springs. I actually put the pro kit on it to lift it back up about an inch so the long tubes clear, and I could actually get some movement out of the suspension. The Tie rods were even parallel to the A arm, so didn't have to worry about bump steer either
    Last edited by 4eyex2; 01-24-2009 at 04:00 AM.
    1983 GLX vert
    88 roller motor
    Intake/Exhaust/Underdrives/Turbocoupe t5
    13.79 @ 96.29 1.86 60'

    1986 Mustang Gt
    95 longblock w/smog bumps removed/TFS1 cam/Explorer intake/Hedman Long tubes/Mac catback 252hp/311tq
    .
    13.05@102.55

  6. #106

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    All this is great info, because I am about to undertake the Cobra f&r brake upgrade on an '86. I have '95 V8 spindles, an '87 up tubular K-member & associated control arms and coilovers, and a complete '95 V8 rearend. I have the Cobra f&r calipers, rotors, caliper bridges, & assundry hardware.

    I guess I will have to do some serious research before I start bolting parts onto this car. But this certainly has been a help.

  7. #107

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    ok...I just bought the brakes off a '94 GT (complete rear and everything in the front except the prop. valve and booster) but I have a couple questions:

    -Since the 79-86s are already 2 port, will the '94 MC bolt up with no problems?

    -Will I have to change or modify the stock prop valve? Can I and/or should I go back and get the '94 prop. valve?

    -will the stock 83 booster be good enough? Will the rod have to be adjusted?

    -besides the adapter for the RF hard to soft line, are there any other adapters I'm going to need?

    Thanks in advance
    Rob

    '83 Capri RS, all apart again
    The rebirth: http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...ghlight=rsmerc

    '13 Raptor SCrew

  8. #108

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    Quote Originally Posted by RSmerc View Post
    ok...I just bought the brakes off a '94 GT (complete rear and everything in the front except the prop. valve and booster) but I have a couple questions:

    -Since the 79-86s are already 2 port, will the '94 MC bolt up with no problems?
    You will need to find 87-93 5.0 brake lines that go from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve. Those will allow you to bolt up a 94 Master Cylinder to your stock prop valve without issues.

    Quote Originally Posted by RSmerc View Post
    -Will I have to change or modify the stock prop valve? Can I and/or should I go back and get the '94 prop. valve?
    gut the stock prop valve and get the FRPP plug for the front of the prop valve. Don't bother using the '94 prop valve. Sn95's are of a different weight and the SN95 prop valve will apply bias to the rear brakes according to the size/weight of an SN95. After you gut the stock prop valve, pick up an adjustable prop valve and adjust the bias for the rear brakes using the adjustable prop valve.

    Quote Originally Posted by RSmerc View Post
    -will the stock 83 booster be good enough? Will the rod have to be adjusted?
    Your brake pedal will be stiff.
    Corey
    1965 Mustang
    1986 Mustang GT T-Tops - Explorer engine swap, MAF Conversion, 5 lug Cobra Brakes
    2001 True Blue Bullitt
    www.thompsontransmission.com - coming soon
    Fox Body Black Interior Interchangeability Guide

  9. #109

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    The combo on my '84 'vert is:

    '85 Towncar MC and stock booster
    '94/'95 spindles, a-arms, UPR CC plates, '99 up PBR calipers, stock '99 brake hoses, TMD slotted rotors, sn95 inner and outer tie rods
    '95 V6 rear brakes and axles using stock '95 hoses mated to stock '90 hardlines from the 8.8 rear.
    '99 Cobra wheels w/ 255/45/17 and 245/45/17-- these will have to be swapped to '05 up wheels eventually. I had to roll the fenders in front to stop the rubbing.

    My brake pedal is just right with the 1" bore '85 towncar master cylinder and stock '84 booster. Maybe just a hair on the firm side, but they will lock up if mashed hard enough. I am using the PV spring from a '95 Mustang inside the stock '84 PV. The bias is perfect on my 'vert.

    The only adapters I needed were on the new MC to the PV and the right front brake hose. I started with a defective reman MC that bolted directly up. Using a '99 up LF hose on the right side would negate the use of an adapter.

    The rear brake hose needed to be bent slightly to clear the tailpipe.

    I noticed the front sat about 1" lower with the sn95 arms. The longer geometry must reduce the spring rate. The car handles much better while the ride seems smoother. The front wheels also stick out 1" more than the rear.

  10. #110
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    I am about to undertake all of this and had a question on the rear.

    I bought the '94 - '95 hard lines along with Maximum Motorsports' stainless hose kit. Of course all of this moves the Brake Y on the axle to the left top of the pumkin.

    With my '84 the body hard line is on the right subframe.

    What is everyone doing for this fix? Do I need to replace the body hardline with a '87 - '93 hard line or is there something a little more simple?
    Ron Gibson

    '84 GT Turbo - Under construction - Build Thread - Maximum Motorsports, Cobra R, Boport, Chuck W, Stinger, Turbo_Dad MegaSquirt
    '83 Thunderbird TC - Bone Stock

  11. #111

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    Okay...be ready everyone. I am really close to asking a ton of newbie brake questions about upgrading the brakes on my next "new" '86 GT. Going from stock brakes to a '95 SN95 front spindles, a complete '95 SN95 rearend w/ a complete Cobra caliper/rotor upgrade. The car actually already has a '94 MC upgrade, but that is ALL it has as far as brake upgrades.

    So, I'm sure I will have some questions.

    Thanks,

    E

  12. #112
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    I don't think it has been covered.

    Maximum Motorsports has two Stainless Hose Kits (MMBK6F / MMBK7F) so that no adapter will be necessary to run the sn95 calipers. While more expensive @ $79.95 it is a worthy upgrade and gets rid of a coupling.

    While it is listed for 87-93 it does fit the 79-86. I am going to be using a set on my '84 and every thing seems to work.

    The two different kits are dependant on the caliper you are going to use. There are coarse thread calipers and fine thread. So be sure to check that out before ordering. I think MM would be well served to just offer both bolts in one kit.

    Ron Gibson

    '84 GT Turbo - Under construction - Build Thread - Maximum Motorsports, Cobra R, Boport, Chuck W, Stinger, Turbo_Dad MegaSquirt
    '83 Thunderbird TC - Bone Stock

  13. #113
    FEP Member Bob's84's Avatar
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    Great thread! Bump

  14. #114
    FEP Member 408IIII's Avatar
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    Help. I have a 79 coupe originally it had a 4 cyl. I have changed the spindles to 87-93 4 cyl so I could do the cheap five lug conversion. I'm having issues with calipers. the 87 cyl calipers (without pads) are rubbing when I put them on the 83 Ranger rotors also the calipers don't really seem to fit that well on the spindles. Any suggestions? Has anyone here done the swap?
    408iiii

  15. #115

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    Here's one for the real guru's!!! Experts test your knowledge here!!!

    I'm glad psrumors just posted regarding the MM (StopTech) brake lines which are for '87-93 cars with SN95 brakes. I just purchased the MMBK6F kit with BOTH fine and coarse thread banjo bolts since I wasn't 100% sure which threads were required for my 13" disc Bullitt calipers (running pony logo calipers).

    Anywway, some questions for you FOX experts, especially 79-86 cars.

    (1) Are the front body brake lines designed to accept a double flair or bubble flair hose or both? My '86 GT is a true 5.0 factory car and it appears that the body lines are designed to accept a double flair brake line. The factory '86 brake hoses are at least double flair. I really don't know what the difference is (if any) between a body line that accepts a bubble flair brake hose vs. a double flair brake hose.

    (2) The MM lines that I have are a bubble flair and are not sealing against my '86 GTs double flair body lines. I don't believe that double flair and bubble flair are designed to mate, correct?

    Does anyone else have the MMBK6 or 7F MM lines and are yours double flair or bubble flair?

    I have a pair of '94-'98 Cobra Goodridge lines and they appear to be setup for double flair body lines...

    I told Jason at MM that I would get back to him regarding my delimma. He is under the impression that the body brake lines on 79-93 cars were all the same. He wants me to take pictures of the '94-'98 Cobra Goodridge hoses that I have, the '86 factory hoses, the MM lines that I recently received, and my '86 body hard lines. He's going to call StopTech (they make the MM hoses) to see what the deal is. Hopefully if '79-86 cars are unique and do in fact use double flair hoses, I can get StopTech to make me a pair of MM '79-86 SN96 conversion hoses so I don't have to screw around with my cars brake lines since they are ALL in mint condition.

    I'm lost at this point. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

    Thanks!
    Mark
    Last edited by Quikk86; 04-06-2009 at 07:41 PM.
    Mark

    1986 GT Hatchback (2R): 5spd, TFS FAC 170s, TFS Stage 2 Cam, Vortech SQ S-Trim, MM Suspension, SN95 5-lug conversion w/Fox 5-lug rear axles, 3.73's, 13" / 11.65" brakes, Moates QuarterHorse
    '88 LX 5.0
    '22 GT500

  16. #116
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    I used the MMBK7F SS lines without issue. Bolted right up to my '84 hard lines.
    Ron Gibson

    '84 GT Turbo - Under construction - Build Thread - Maximum Motorsports, Cobra R, Boport, Chuck W, Stinger, Turbo_Dad MegaSquirt
    '83 Thunderbird TC - Bone Stock

  17. #117

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    Are your MMBK7F lines double flair or bubble flair at the body line to brake hose fitting?
    Mark

    1986 GT Hatchback (2R): 5spd, TFS FAC 170s, TFS Stage 2 Cam, Vortech SQ S-Trim, MM Suspension, SN95 5-lug conversion w/Fox 5-lug rear axles, 3.73's, 13" / 11.65" brakes, Moates QuarterHorse
    '88 LX 5.0
    '22 GT500

  18. #118
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    I have to assume inverted flair as is the rest of the car. I didn't really look but I know they were not bubble flairs.

    It's possible they had a bad run of lines. I got my hard lines that go from the MC to the PV and one of them had the incorrect fitting on the end. When I contacted Jason they checked their stock and they had an entire run that was bd.
    Ron Gibson

    '84 GT Turbo - Under construction - Build Thread - Maximum Motorsports, Cobra R, Boport, Chuck W, Stinger, Turbo_Dad MegaSquirt
    '83 Thunderbird TC - Bone Stock

  19. #119

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    I'm hoping that it's a simple mix-up with the vendor and they actually have double (inverted) flair lines. I've never heard of anyone with a FOX body car, regardless of year having trouble or reflaring they body side lines...
    Mark

    1986 GT Hatchback (2R): 5spd, TFS FAC 170s, TFS Stage 2 Cam, Vortech SQ S-Trim, MM Suspension, SN95 5-lug conversion w/Fox 5-lug rear axles, 3.73's, 13" / 11.65" brakes, Moates QuarterHorse
    '88 LX 5.0
    '22 GT500

  20. #120
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    Ok, a little late but info none the less, for 5 lug/disc swap.......if you are getting Napa parts:
    Part: Part#
    E-Brake cables..........................................94 497
    Lincoln pads (rear)....................................SS-7269A
    Lincoln rotors (rear)..................................4886237
    SN95 (96-98 ) front:
    Brake Rotors (V6/GT)................................4886443
    V6/GT Pads.............................................. SS-7478X.

    Hope these numbers help some. P.S: this needs to be stickied or archived, but that is just my opinion (based on how many questions we get on this subject).
    Last edited by 86GT2go; 06-28-2009 at 05:34 PM.
    " If you're not living life on the edge, that means you're taking up too much room."
    1979 Mustang Indy Pace 2.3T/4spd (sold on 1/10/16)
    1983 GLX vert 3.8/auto (triple black, sold on 10/8/13)
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    1985 Coupe 4.6L DOHC/IRS swapped (sold 9/10/17)
    1986 GT TTop 5spd (sold as of 10/8/13)
    1988 Thunderbird TurboCoupe (Cobra IRS/Brakes/big turbo project)

  21. #121

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    New Pics










    1998 SVT Contour Daily Driver- K1 Racing Wheels CAI
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  22. #122
    FEP Power Member fordguy's Avatar
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    looks great!!!
    '66 mustang coupe- 89 302ho T-5Z 3.80's

    Quote Originally Posted by superhighoutput View Post
    well if they start sending me checks again,FREE DASH PADS FOR EVERYONE!!!!!

  23. #123
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    Quote Originally Posted by 84rsturbo View Post
    New Pics











    Very nice!!
    Neal

  24. #124

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    i have a 95 rear
    Are the 94 to 95 Hard Lines available in parts stores? or did any of you just custom make and bend yours? any pics? of the 95 or 94 rear and how you ran the lines that attach to the factory chrome lines? also in the complete MM rear braided line kit is there any adaptors or other parts i need?
    No Longer a 4I Owner
    But Have way too much 4I stuff Collecting Dust.

  25. #125

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    Since I can't find any info in a search I'll ask in this thread.

    What's up with the LSC rears? Good way to go five lug disc out back? I think I want the extra width anyway.....

    If I found an '89 LSC rear local for a decent price, would it be a good idea to pick it up or is there a better way to go 5 lug, or any problems that I would run into that aren't the case with any other 5lug disc rear?
    MY GARAGE | SUPPORT THE 2.3
    1982 Mustang GT T-Top
    1993 Reef Blue LX 2.3 5spd

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