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  1. #76

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    Quote Originally Posted by 895.0 View Post
    how do you gut a p. valve?
    find a socket to fit the on the cap at the end of the prop valve facing the radiator support. Remove the spring and plunger and replace with the cap from FRPP
    Corey
    1965 Mustang
    1986 Mustang GT T-Tops - Explorer engine swap, MAF Conversion, 5 lug Cobra Brakes
    2001 True Blue Bullitt
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  2. #77

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    If you want to install front dust shields on the Cobra brake upgrade, don't bother buying the Cobra front dust shields. The only difference is the cutout for the caliper is a little bigger. The rest of the dust shield is dimensionally the same as the '94-'98 stock dust shield.

    Dean T
    Proud owner of the one and only Friggin' Futura

  3. #78
    FEP Senior Member Moving_Target's Avatar
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    If you are going to reuse the stock fox rear hard lines, you'll need to cut and reflare (double flare!) the line after removing the old flare nut and using an Edelmann Part No.121034 flare nut. It's a 3/16" x 1/4" fitting.

    That's my current stumbling block with my sn-95 5lug conversion. I'm a stubborn cuss.
    Last edited by Moving_Target; 02-20-2007 at 09:54 AM. Reason: missed a word. was typing too fast woah!
    '86 Notch autocross beotch ( bucket of rust)
    '94 Crown Vic Winter Beater
    '93 Mustang Hatchback 2.3L 5spd

  4. #79
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    Hey guys, for everyone who has been wondering about the sizes to get for the Towncar MC, I got mine today. the port on the mustang mc is 3/8", and the port on the Towncar is a 1/4"

    So, in short, you will need a 3/8" female x 1/4" male mc adapter. Make sure that both sides are reverse flare, too.
    Last edited by A5295; 02-21-2007 at 12:05 PM. Reason: reverse flare
    86 GT... 3.73's, elec fan, underdrive pulley, Bassani E/L Ceramic Coated Headers, Pypes Catted X, and Magnaflow Catback, MGW Shifter.
    5 Lug Conv, with cobra binders, TownCar MC, SN95 Booster
    H&R Race Fronts, Steeda 350# Rear Springs, MM CC plates, Tokico Illuminas, and a Steeda 5-Link-2
    Sounds:
    Image Dynamics IDQ 10.2 in a sealed enclosure with a RF Punch 201S amp

  5. #80
    FEP Senior Member Moving_Target's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by A5295 View Post
    Hey guys, for everyone who has been wondering about the sizes to get for the Towncar MC, I got mine today. the port on the mustang mc is 3/8", and the port on the Towncar is a 1/4"

    So, in short, you will need a 3/8" female x 1/4" male mc adapter. Make sure that both sides are double flare, too.
    Just ran into that myself tonight. Uhm, part number?
    '86 Notch autocross beotch ( bucket of rust)
    '94 Crown Vic Winter Beater
    '93 Mustang Hatchback 2.3L 5spd

  6. #81
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    So if I had a 94-98 mustang parts car could I just swap out the rear ends?
    And all the front stuff spindles/hubs, rotors, control arms, calipers, and balljoints bolt up without any modification?
    82 hatch resto in progress
    83 coupe
    86 coupe
    90 hatch


  7. #82
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    Moving target, I dont have a part number right off hand for you, but what i did was find a 3/16 female to 1/4 adapter, and bought myself a piece of 3/16 brake line, and spliced it into my stock lines to the mc. I will post some pics of it tonight or tomorrow sometime. I used a brass compression union to connect the two lines together.

    It was a hell of a lot cheaper than the $30 shipped i was gonna have to pay for the adapter from MM.

    Gator_taz, all you need for the front are the spindles/brakes. You can use everything else thats there. It would be simpler, IMO to just swap the axles/drums than the whole rearend - are you planning on swapping to rear discs too?
    Last edited by A5295; 02-21-2007 at 12:04 PM.
    86 GT... 3.73's, elec fan, underdrive pulley, Bassani E/L Ceramic Coated Headers, Pypes Catted X, and Magnaflow Catback, MGW Shifter.
    5 Lug Conv, with cobra binders, TownCar MC, SN95 Booster
    H&R Race Fronts, Steeda 350# Rear Springs, MM CC plates, Tokico Illuminas, and a Steeda 5-Link-2
    Sounds:
    Image Dynamics IDQ 10.2 in a sealed enclosure with a RF Punch 201S amp

  8. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by A5295 View Post
    Gator_taz, all you need for the front are the spindles/brakes. You can use everything else thats there. It would be simpler, IMO to just swap the axles/drums than the whole rearend - are you planning on swapping to rear discs too?
    ok just the spindles/brakes up front

    yes i'm planning on swapping to disc brakes in the rear
    82 hatch resto in progress
    83 coupe
    86 coupe
    90 hatch


  9. #84
    FEP Senior Member Moving_Target's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by A5295 View Post
    Moving target, I dont have a part number right off hand for you, but what i did was find a 3/16 female to 1/4 adapter, and bought myself a piece of 3/16 brake line, and spliced it into my stock lines to the mc. I will post some pics of it tonight or tomorrow sometime. I used a brass compression union to connect the two lines together.

    It was a hell of a lot cheaper than the $30 shipped i was gonna have to pay for the adapter from MM.
    Ok, I finally () found a 3/16" female inverted flare to 1/4" male inverted flare adapter and instead of cutting up the original line, I'm using it as a template and using some old left-over 3/16 parts to make a suitable line.
    Man, what a runaround trying to find some "simple" fittings.

    PS: Did I mention how mad I am right now?

    PPS: I dunno about using compression fittings in this app though...
    '86 Notch autocross beotch ( bucket of rust)
    '94 Crown Vic Winter Beater
    '93 Mustang Hatchback 2.3L 5spd

  10. #85
    FEP Senior Member Moving_Target's Avatar
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    Ok, I've come across something helpful, I hope.

    I bought the 3/16" -> 1/4" adapter with the intention of using some old rear hard lines and putting a 3/16" inverted (reversed...whatever) flare nut on to
    connect the Town Car M/C to the prop valve/distribution block. I had mistakenly assumed that the flare nut on the hard line to soft line brass block was also 3/16" but it's actually a 3/16" tube to 1/4" nut. When I finished bending and flaring the replacement line, the nut I had installed wouldn't fit on the adapter I had just bought. I was fuming thinking I'd made a mistake but when I unscrewed the adapter from the master cylinder, just for the hell of it tried screwing the line in. It fit!! I didn't even need go chasing around the city for this stupid adapter because I had the right flare nut sitting on one of my old junk rear axle lines.

    Pictures to explain what I'm babbling about...

    1st pic is of a 3/16" inverted flare nut and the 3/16" to 1/4" adapter
    2nd pic is of the flare nut and adapter screwed into the M/C
    3rd pic is what the stock ('86 mustang) rear Master cylinder to prop valve line looks like
    4th pic is the line I made using some old rear brake line and fittings
    5th pic is what the line looks like screwed into the Master cylinder.

    Easy peasy... If you stumble onto it.

    Basically, you can go two routes:

    1)track down one of those adapters, cut off the 3/8" flare nut and flare the line with a 3/16" nut or
    2) take an old rear hardline, shorten it and reflare and bend it to shape and you're done.

    I'll take option #2 please.
    Attached Images Attached Images      
    Last edited by Moving_Target; 02-21-2007 at 04:36 PM.
    '86 Notch autocross beotch ( bucket of rust)
    '94 Crown Vic Winter Beater
    '93 Mustang Hatchback 2.3L 5spd

  11. #86
    FEP Senior Member Moving_Target's Avatar
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    How's this for stealthy?
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Last edited by Moving_Target; 02-21-2007 at 05:32 PM.
    '86 Notch autocross beotch ( bucket of rust)
    '94 Crown Vic Winter Beater
    '93 Mustang Hatchback 2.3L 5spd

  12. #87
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    i may have missed it, but i have a turbo coupe reat with 4 lug disks. can i just change the axles and rotors to make it 5 lug? or is there something im missing ?
    86 GT , 5speed, stock 86 block and cam, ported e7s, cobra upper and lower intakes,65mm tb,U/Ds,no A/C or smog,reflashed computer, BBK longtubes, custom 2 1/2 o/r xpipe, magnaflow catback,c-springs, koni's all around,and 16x8 AR wheels.

    85 coupe-project sleeper

  13. #88
    FEP Senior Member Moving_Target's Avatar
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    http://www.stangler.com/motorsports/articles/TechArticles/brake%20line%20adapters.htm
    I forgot about this guy's website and the bookmark. It might be useful to someone...

    Main page

    http://www.stangler.com/motorsports/articles/index.htm
    (he says he has an '86. *gasp*)
    Last edited by Moving_Target; 02-22-2007 at 01:39 PM. Reason: added second link
    '86 Notch autocross beotch ( bucket of rust)
    '94 Crown Vic Winter Beater
    '93 Mustang Hatchback 2.3L 5spd

  14. #89
    FEP Senior Member Moving_Target's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1hot86gt View Post
    i may have missed it, but i have a turbo coupe reat with 4 lug disks. can i just change the axles and rotors to make it 5 lug? or is there something im missing ?
    I think there is an issue with the caliper brackets. Thought I had a bookmark of someone's information that went that way. I'll see if I can find it.
    '86 Notch autocross beotch ( bucket of rust)
    '94 Crown Vic Winter Beater
    '93 Mustang Hatchback 2.3L 5spd

  15. #90
    FEP Senior Member Moving_Target's Avatar
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    Found it but I don't think it's what you wanted.
    Link

    Well, maybe it is
    Like I said in the beginning of this article, there are no steps to keep the E-brake functional. If you attempted to add the E-brake cable caliper brackets, you would have found out that the bracket hit the axle housing where the lower control arms attach. This does not allow the floating caliper design to use the outer pad (only the inner pad will touch the rotor when the brakes are applied. Yes, I found this out the hard way.) If you want to retain the E-brakes, you might be able to bend the E-brake cable caliper brackets so they dont his the axle housing. However, I have not done this and Im not 100% sure it will work. As far as which brake cables to use, '84-'86 SVO cables should work. SVOs use the same calipers are Mark VIIs and the same E-brake handle assembly as Mustangs. Again, Im not 100% sure on this. If you have any questions and/or comments, please E-mail them to derek@wcfords.com.
    Last edited by Moving_Target; 02-21-2007 at 09:31 PM.
    '86 Notch autocross beotch ( bucket of rust)
    '94 Crown Vic Winter Beater
    '93 Mustang Hatchback 2.3L 5spd

  16. #91
    FEP Senior Member 83capril's Avatar
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    Just checking in to suscribe to this. I too want to do a 5 lug swap someday Great info you guys have posted. !!!
    2004 Mach 1 The garge queen
    1988 F250 5.8L 5 spd 4x4 A true work horse!
    1980 F100 stepside Yard ordament
    1983 Capri L 5.8L FINALLY!!!
    ^Ready to play!!!!

  17. #92
    FEP Power Member LTDScott's Avatar
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    My car already had Cobra 13" front brakes on it, but I decided to upgrade to steel braided lines. Long story short, I needed the hard line to soft line adapter for the passenger side (Weatherhead 7828 - about $5).

    But the odd thing is that the Ford rubber line I pulled off the car didn't require an adapter at all, but worked with the Cobra calipers! The Ford part label was still on it and the part number is F4ZZ-2078-C. Just an FYI for someone if they want to go with Ford lines.
    85 Ford LTD LX: Four eyes and Four doors

    EFI swap, AFR 165 heads, 5-speed conversion, Cobra brakes, etc.

  18. #93
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    Good find, Moving_target! That would really help a bunch of folks, im sure... sorry that i never got back on and said anything, its been hectic, and ive been soooo sick... Relapse of strep is killer!
    86 GT... 3.73's, elec fan, underdrive pulley, Bassani E/L Ceramic Coated Headers, Pypes Catted X, and Magnaflow Catback, MGW Shifter.
    5 Lug Conv, with cobra binders, TownCar MC, SN95 Booster
    H&R Race Fronts, Steeda 350# Rear Springs, MM CC plates, Tokico Illuminas, and a Steeda 5-Link-2
    Sounds:
    Image Dynamics IDQ 10.2 in a sealed enclosure with a RF Punch 201S amp

  19. #94
    FEP Senior Member Moving_Target's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LTDScott View Post
    My car already had Cobra 13" front brakes on it, but I decided to upgrade to steel braided lines. Long story short, I needed the hard line to soft line adapter for the passenger side (Weatherhead 7828 - about $5).
    Yeppers, I am also going with the stainless braided MM ( actually made by Stoptech) for a 79-93 with Cobra brake conversion. The adapter fitting that I didn't need is actually necessary with these SS lines. MM's instructions say it's not necessary but both of the lines are identical and that means the smaller fitting on the passenger side needs to be addressed. I'm very suprised that MM (and Stoptech)
    didn't include the fitting or at least make the lines side specific.
    '86 Notch autocross beotch ( bucket of rust)
    '94 Crown Vic Winter Beater
    '93 Mustang Hatchback 2.3L 5spd

  20. #95
    FEP Senior Member Moving_Target's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by A5295 View Post
    Good find, Moving_target! That would really help a bunch of folks, im sure... sorry that i never got back on and said anything, its been hectic, and ive been soooo sick... Relapse of strep is killer!
    Fuggetaboutit.
    Ooh, don't even get me started on lung and chest infections.

    Worst. Thing. Ever.

    Hope you get over it soon.
    '86 Notch autocross beotch ( bucket of rust)
    '94 Crown Vic Winter Beater
    '93 Mustang Hatchback 2.3L 5spd

  21. #96
    FEP Power Member fordguy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1hot86gt View Post
    i may have missed it, but i have a turbo coupe reat with 4 lug disks. can i just change the axles and rotors to make it 5 lug? or is there something im missing ?
    try this link- http://discbrakesrus.com/make/ford/brakerotorsrear.htm
    7th rotor down, 10.25". 94-98 axles are the same length as tc's so with this rotor it should work.
    '66 mustang coupe- 89 302ho T-5Z 3.80's

    Quote Originally Posted by superhighoutput View Post
    well if they start sending me checks again,FREE DASH PADS FOR EVERYONE!!!!!

  22. #97

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    I have a complete 1995 gt, and am planning to swap everything, including the upgrading to cobra brakes, and making the ABS functinal onto my 1986 GT. Anyone ever swap over the ABS assembly and lines to a fox? The only bad thing about this is every stock part of my 1986 brake system is brand new, and the car has not even been on the road yet!!! I will have alot of new stock parts coming back off. The cobra brakes, and ABS will be great though. Anyone ever put on the Hydroboost setup from 96-up??
    1986 Gt 173,000 mi.
    1984 SVO 80,000 mi.
    1988 NY SSP 223,000mi.
    1968 f-100 ranger 82,000 mi.
    1997 Tracer 180,000 mi.

  23. #98
    FEP Super Member 93-331-29PSI's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnie Ryall View Post
    I have a complete 1995 gt, and am planning to swap everything, including the upgrading to cobra brakes, and making the ABS functinal onto my 1986 GT. Anyone ever swap over the ABS assembly and lines to a fox? The only bad thing about this is every stock part of my 1986 brake system is brand new, and the car has not even been on the road yet!!! I will have alot of new stock parts coming back off. The cobra brakes, and ABS will be great though. Anyone ever put on the Hydroboost setup from 96-up??
    I have an 86GT with cobra brakes front and rear and it outperformed my 94GT (with ABS) all day long in the brake department. I would think that yours would be equal. I personally don't see where the benefit outweighs the cost. Good luck though.

    As for the hydraboost setup, alot of people have done that conversion. It will require some drilling since the holes don't line up. Shouldn't be that hard.
    83 GT Turbo

  24. #99
    FEP Senior Member BAD5oh's Avatar
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    I just installed a 96 Cobra rear in my 86 and want to add some info from my experience. I had to purchase new soft lines for the rear but 1 side is not sold anymore. I never knew why until I went to the scrap yard. I found a 96 GT and found that the passenger side that I couldn't get in the store is where the split is also in those cars going to the driver side. What I did was use 2 left side hoses and new short 3/16 lines to the 86 factory split in the center. I had to buy 2 adaptors that the auto parts store had on shelf that was a 3/16" female to 3/16" male tube inverted flare to make the new lines from the center split work wit the 96 soft lines. Also using a left soft line on the right side I had to bend it slightly to keep out of the way of the control arm. The bend is slight and is not even close enough to kink the line. At the scrap yard there were no right side soft lines in good condition so thats why I went with 2 left side lines
    86 GT vert

    Projects: 1994 roller named Shirley

  25. #100

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    so, how much does this set a working man back?

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