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  1. #51
    FEP Member ohno5point0's Avatar
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    Proof? I followed this website EXACTLY how this guy did it. Sure I have an 86 and he did it on a 91, but it slid right into place. I didn't have to lift a single hammer or prybar. The Ford guys are obviously lazy and would rather have you beat the tower than simply elongate the holes. I took my time and it popped right in, so maybe I have some fluke car, but I did no bashing.

    Look at the "under the hood" part and you'll see what I mean.

    http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/brake.html

    This guy got it in his 88 GT

    http://www.duggerracing.com/techtips...s/index8.shtml
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  2. #52
    FEP Member ohno5point0's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ohno5point0 View Post
    Proof? I followed this website EXACTLY how this guy did it. Sure I have an 86 and he did it on a 91, but it slid right into place. I didn't have to lift a single hammer or prybar. The Ford guys are obviously lazy and would rather have you beat the tower than simply elongate the holes. I took my time and it popped right in, so maybe I have some fluke car, but I did no bashing.

    Look at the "under the hood" part and you'll see what I mean.

    http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/brake.html

    This guy got it in his 88 GT

    http://www.duggerracing.com/techtips...s/index8.shtml
    If you want pictures, I will take some this spring. My car is in storage, and I am not going to be able to get to it until I pull it out in May or so. But I assure you, it did fit.
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  3. #53
    FEP Member ohno5point0's Avatar
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    I suck at the internet. I am quoting myself.
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  4. #54

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    I'm glad it worked out for you two. But man, I tried elongating the holes first before bashing the strut tower and no matter how much I did, it just wouldn't fit. I really wish I didn't have to hammer on it, but I had to. I soooo didn't want to. I elongated the holes and bashed the strut tower just like Adam Dugger did in your post above at Dugger Racing. There just wasn't enough room on my 85. I just used a ball peen hammer though. I took my time and did the drill... test fit, hammer a little, test fit, hammer a little until it plopped right in.

    So basically, so far we have determined that when installing an SN95 booster that one would need to elongate the holes first before hammering on the strut tower to see if the booster will fall in. If it won't, then hammer away. Agreed?
    Last edited by silver85; 12-18-2006 at 10:42 PM.

  5. #55
    FEP Senior Member AaronATX's Avatar
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    How similar are the 94-95 v6 sn95 boosters vs a 93 cobra externally? Cause unless I was supposed to cut slots 6 inches long in my firewall I dont see how I could have fit this beast in its place...




    The main pain in the butt is the fact that the corners are so much more squared off than the stock one...

    another thing I forgot to mention is that the 4 studs in the v6 booster are not exactly the same distance from one another compared to the stocker I pulled out.
    Last edited by AaronATX; 12-19-2006 at 12:52 AM.
    No more 4eyes

    Some crappy 90 HCI coupe for now.

  6. #56

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    Quote Originally Posted by AaronATX View Post
    How similar are the 94-95 v6 sn95 boosters vs a 93 cobra externally? Cause unless I was supposed to cut slots 6 inches long in my firewall I dont see how I could have fit this beast in its place...
    Externally they look the same except for the stud pattern on the back. SN95 Boosters have the driver side lower stud further out than a typical fox body booster/93 cobra booster. In other words you'll have to hog out the holes on your firewall even further if you use an SN95 booster.
    Corey
    1965 Mustang
    1986 Mustang GT T-Tops - Explorer engine swap, MAF Conversion, 5 lug Cobra Brakes
    2001 True Blue Bullitt
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  7. #57

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    Quote Originally Posted by ohno5point0 View Post
    The Ford guys are obviously lazy and would rather have you beat the tower than simply elongate the holes.
    Let me explain something to you so you can understand a little better.

    It has nothing to do with being lazy. Not all fox bodies are built exactly the same, there are production tolerances. Just because you were able to fit a larger booster into your 86 does not mean the next joe shmoe will be able to as well.

    There are situations in which only elongating the firewall holes is not enough to get the booster to fit. This is just a hypothetical situation....lets say for example there is a total of 8 inches of clearance between my strut tower and firewall but my brake booster is 9 inches wide. Guess what, it's not gonna fit without clearancing your strut tower.

    I'm sure it is possible to get these larger boosters in without massaging the strut tower, but it's purely a case by case basis as these Mustangs aren't all built the same. I tried elongating all of the holes in the firewall and there still wasn't enough room to pop it in because the booster kept interfering with the strut tower. I could only get my booster in by massaging. My booster still does not completely fit behind the strut tower because there just isn't enough clearance. But it does sit where it needs to because I massaged the strut tower only enough to allow the booster to properly fit into place on the firewall.

    Now, you mentioned "beating" the strut tower with the hammer. If you have any sort of engineering background at all when it comes sheet metal, you'd understand that there is a difference between beating a sheet metal structure with a hammer and carefully massaging the shape of structure in a way that does not hinder the way it was designed.

    Beating the struture will crease the sheet metal and destroy it's functionality. Massaging it will alter the shape of the structure without destroying the geometry of it's design.

    These strut towers were designed to handle a certain amount of load. If you simply beat on your strut tower with a hammer, you will destroy your strut tower and it'll eventually begin to crack because your strut tower can no longer handle the stress loads it was designed to absorb.

    It is possible to alter the shape of the strut tower by carefully massaging it the right way. Massaging sheet metal is a fairly common thing to do. It is perfectly safe and acceptable if you do it correctly, in a way that does not crease, crack, or destroy the sheet metal. My father builds F-18 Hornets for Northrop-Grumman, he's fairly familiar with this type of stuff and so am I by hanging around him
    Last edited by 50 Proof; 12-19-2006 at 10:32 AM.
    Corey
    1965 Mustang
    1986 Mustang GT T-Tops - Explorer engine swap, MAF Conversion, 5 lug Cobra Brakes
    2001 True Blue Bullitt
    www.thompsontransmission.com - coming soon
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  8. #58
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    FYI. The 87-93 cars seem to take less "messaging" of the strut tower to get the sn95 booster to fit.

    Why? Simple. Over time the body stamping machines tolerances increase and hence over time the tolerances increase on the panels that are being stamped.

    Well thats my theory anyway.

    kyle
    Also, do not be so quick to judge someone's comments as being derogatory. It is often difficult to interpret someone's intentions having only text and no body language or tone of voice to guide you.
    "If road racing where easy it would be called drag racing"
    1986 Thunderbird 5.0/AOD

  9. #59

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    Quote Originally Posted by BRH View Post
    So from what im reading is the most economical front swap to 5 lug going to be using the sn95 spindles/calipers/rotors/struts, on the stock control arms how bad will the c/c plates be effected? Will aftermarket c/c plates be a required? Also i see specs for the balljoint spacer but does anyone know where one can be purchased? I was considering just using the 95 a-arms till I read about the tie rods/steering rack issues. I am just planning on running bullit wheels and lookiing for the easiest way to do so.. Thanks
    Anyone?

  10. #60

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    I was told that C/C plates are required when using SN95 Spindles, but I've heard of people getting away without them. I'm using them on my 86 GT, which is also lowered. It's a somewhat low cost upgrade, it never hurts to get c/c plates if you can afford it.
    Corey
    1965 Mustang
    1986 Mustang GT T-Tops - Explorer engine swap, MAF Conversion, 5 lug Cobra Brakes
    2001 True Blue Bullitt
    www.thompsontransmission.com - coming soon
    Fox Body Black Interior Interchangeability Guide

  11. #61
    FEP Power Member kj_80Cobra's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BRH View Post
    Also i see specs for the balljoint spacer but does anyone know where one can be purchased?
    I have seen a guy advertising a spacer he makes on the Corral Forum but I consider the price pretty high when you can just stack up several washers to the spec size.

  12. #62

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    Quote Originally Posted by 50 Proof View Post
    In other words you'll have to hog out the holes on your firewall even further if you use an SN95 booster.
    I dont buy this. I have personally installed a 95 GT booster, I can take pics if you want, I did not have to elongate any holes, they all lined up perfectly, the only thing that sucked was prying the booster itself in there, I'll probably have to cut the booster out of there when it goes bad.
    1979 Mustang Indy 500 Pace Car
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  13. #63

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    I wonder if there is a difference in the booster's because the M-2300-K instructions don't mention elongating a hole at all. Maybe the 94-95 booster's are different from the 96-04 V6's.

  14. #64

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    Quote Originally Posted by 795.0pacecar View Post
    I dont buy this. I have personally installed a 95 GT booster, I can take pics if you want, I did not have to elongate any holes, they all lined up perfectly, the only thing that sucked was prying the booster itself in there, I'll probably have to cut the booster out of there when it goes bad.
    Are you sure you had an SN95 booster? I know for a fact that at least the 96-98 boosters have a different stud pattern than than the fox body booster. I installed a 96 booster into an 88 Notch. The driver side lower stud on the booster does not line up with the hole on the fox body firewall. I can only speak for 96-98 boosters though, I can't verify for 94-95 boosters.

    Quote Originally Posted by silver85 View Post
    I wonder if there is a difference in the booster's because the M-2300-K instructions don't mention elongating a hole at all. Maybe the 94-95 booster's are different from the 96-04 V6's.
    That's because the booster they include with the kit has a fox body stud pattern on it and can slip through the stock location of the holes on the firewall considering there is enough clearance between the strut tower and firewall for the booster to fit between.
    Last edited by 50 Proof; 12-19-2006 at 09:00 PM.
    Corey
    1965 Mustang
    1986 Mustang GT T-Tops - Explorer engine swap, MAF Conversion, 5 lug Cobra Brakes
    2001 True Blue Bullitt
    www.thompsontransmission.com - coming soon
    Fox Body Black Interior Interchangeability Guide

  15. #65
    FEP Power Member kj_80Cobra's Avatar
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    There is a difference in size in Cobra boosters over the older and SN95 boosters. My 94 Cobra booster looks just like the 93 Cobra booster on the left in the picture posted by AaronATX above. It measures about 8" across the width and 6" deep. If you measure the space in an early Fox, you will find it is a very tight fit. I test fitted mine by elongating the mounting holes larger and larger each time but it would not go in. I had to massage the lower part of the strut tower to squeeze it in. Regular SN95 boosters may just slid in with only elongating the mounting holes.

  16. #66

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    Quote Originally Posted by kj_80Cobra View Post
    There is a difference in size in Cobra boosters over the older and SN95 boosters. My 94 Cobra booster looks just like the 93 Cobra booster on the left in the picture posted by AaronATX above.
    my 93 cobra booster looked to be the same size as my 96 v6 booster. I never measured them but if one was bigger than the other, it was only very slightly.
    Corey
    1965 Mustang
    1986 Mustang GT T-Tops - Explorer engine swap, MAF Conversion, 5 lug Cobra Brakes
    2001 True Blue Bullitt
    www.thompsontransmission.com - coming soon
    Fox Body Black Interior Interchangeability Guide

  17. #67
    FEP Power Member 82HATCH's Avatar
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    Man I am so glad I have manual brakes-didn't have to screw with a booster at all! I also went with c/c plates, but went with the Lincoln stuff out front and aftermarket stuff out back.

  18. #68
    FEP Senior Member SleeperGT's Avatar
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    BRH, from what I've seen for spacers, most guys either stack up washers to the desired height, or make the spacer from some round tubing..
    '83 Mustang GT

  19. #69

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    Quote Originally Posted by 50 Proof View Post
    Are you sure you had an SN95 booster? I know for a fact that at least the 96-98 boosters have a different stud pattern than than the fox body booster. I installed a 96 booster into an 88 Notch. The driver side lower stud on the booster does not line up with the hole on the fox body firewall. I can only speak for 96-98 boosters though, I can't verify for 94-95 boosters.
    Like I said, do you want pictures? It is out of a 95, unless someone put a fox booster into the 95 GT I got it out of and the booster that was in my car was abnormally small.
    1979 Mustang Indy 500 Pace Car
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  20. #70

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    Quote Originally Posted by 795.0pacecar View Post
    Like I said, do you want pictures? It is out of a 95, unless someone put a fox booster into the 95 GT I got it out of and the booster that was in my car was abnormally small.
    Oh I believe you, I'm not saying you're lying. I'm just saying that my experience for the SN95 brake boosters only extend to the 96-98 boosters.

    Since it seems as though 94/95 brake boosters have the same stud pattern as a fox then that is great. That means that people can find a 94/95 booster from the junk yards instead of ordering a reman. 93 cobra booster for 100 dollars. It also means that if people are going to use SN95 boosters, they should stick to 94/95 units instead of 96-98 units...when possible.
    Corey
    1965 Mustang
    1986 Mustang GT T-Tops - Explorer engine swap, MAF Conversion, 5 lug Cobra Brakes
    2001 True Blue Bullitt
    www.thompsontransmission.com - coming soon
    Fox Body Black Interior Interchangeability Guide

  21. #71
    FEP Senior Member AaronATX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 50 Proof View Post
    Oh I believe you, I'm not saying you're lying. I'm just saying that my experience for the SN95 brake boosters only extend to the 96-98 boosters.

    Since it seems as though 94/95 brake boosters have the same stud pattern as a fox then that is great. That means that people can find a 94/95 booster from the junk yards instead of ordering a reman. 93 cobra booster for 100 dollars. It also means that if people are going to use SN95 boosters, they should stick to 94/95 units instead of 96-98 units...when possible.
    the booster I used (94-95 v6) did not match the factory stud setup either. You can kinda see my ghetto measurements I took on the pic I posted earlier.
    No more 4eyes

    Some crappy 90 HCI coupe for now.

  22. #72

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    94-95 v6 is the same as the v8 one. Thats weird then that mine fit right.
    1979 Mustang Indy 500 Pace Car
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  23. #73
    FEP Power Member kj_80Cobra's Avatar
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    I finally had time to get some pictures of my 94 Cobra booster and show how it fits in my 80 Cobra. I tried slotting the firewall mounting holes first to get it in but still couldn't make it fit.


    I had to massage the strut tower slightly which you can barely see in the picture because of the gray primer.



    After working on the strut tower, it barely slid past. It measures about 8" across the width and 6" deep.






    I could then slide it back towards the driver side some to try to center it in the mounting holes.


    I am still not sure how well this will line up with the brake pedal.
    Last edited by kj_80Cobra; 10-06-2011 at 07:31 AM.

  24. #74
    FEP Senior Member 895.0's Avatar
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    how do you gut a p. valve?
    1989 Mustang GT " the race car"
    1986 Mustang GT " the dd"
    1985 Mustang LX T-Top " wife's ride"

  25. #75

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    When using the Ranger front rotors, (im changing to just running prostars), what bearing/seal combo do i need to work with the mustang spindle?

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