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  1. #451

  2. #452

  3. #453

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    The steering arm of the 1994-95 spindles is 0.53" farther outboard. Even with this adjustment made to the outer tie rods, there should be enough thread engagement. What is the actual length of engaged threads on your car? You can stick a paper clip under the outer tie rod to feel where the end of the inner tie rod is.

    With any decent, properly installed c/c plate, you should be able to get the camber set to the setting that you want.
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

  4. #454

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    I just saw the photos of the car. 1/2 of the reason that the front suspension has so much positive camber is that the ride height is super high due to the lack of an engine. Once you install the engine, the ride height will come down and the camber will be much more normal.

    Post photos of each c/c plate taken from directly above each one.
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

  5. #455
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    new detail for the 5 lug thread.

    To me, the 99-04 calipers are the biggest pieces of crap Iíve ever worked with. They work great for a little while then after they sit all winter they start to stick and drag on the rotor.

    In my case Iíve replaced both sides on my car multiple times now and they always end up sticking again.



    I know both single piston or cobra style calipers are vastly more reliable. Ran singles for years before. My buddy still has the first set of Cobra calipers he put on years ago

    Just my experience

    if you have a 17Ē rim the Cobra brakes clear just fine.

    they do hit on most 16Ē

  6. #456
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Agree ó need weight to get to ride height

    Too much positive camber after going to a 94-95 spindle? Boy does that sound familiar

    Take a spring compressor and put it up through the opening in the A arm and use a piece of plate steel or parts from a balljoint press kit then take some tension off the front coil

    now loosen up the bolts

    center the strut and adjust to the absolute max caster you can get

    now locate a jack on the very outer most part of the spindle and jack it up until itís nearly fully loaded with weight from the car

    see where they are at. You might need to slightly slot the upper hole on the strut or to use camber bolts

    I went from +6 with my struts all the way in to -2 with my struts cantered on my car

    multiple parts of the early cars make them harder
    - more narrow K member than fox and SN cars later
    - shorter control arm than SN95
    etc

  7. #457

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    The 1999-2004 front brake calipers were installed on the car for weight and cost reduction. They do not provide better braking. The 1994-98 cast iron caliper is much stiffer and has none of the seizing problems that the 1999-2004 caliper does.
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

  8. #458
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    good to learn this Jack. I went with 99-04 because dual piston must be better than single ..... right. LOLs.

    I just about didn't manage to get my car out of the storage unit TO break it at Midwest Fox Fest this year. When the new parts on an old car are the ones breaking its VERY aggravating!

    I'm definitely going to plot my next move in the brake department. That being said, there's some major work needed first.

  9. #459

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    Here are some pics of the setup I went with. SN95 Arms, 94 Spindles, Cobra brakes and 05 Mustang GT 17x8 wheels (45mm offset, 6.23 backspacing IIRC). Currently at 1 degree negative camber, final setting will be .6-.8. LOTS of clearance, even at full lock. A lot of camber adjustment left. I think 255/45-17s would fit on front with the current wheels without any issues.
    Attached Images Attached Images     
    Jeremiah

    1986 Mustang GT 5spd, 3.27's
    PimpXS ECU/Android Single DIN Touchscreen
    SN95 Cobra Brakes/SN95 Front LCA's/Axles/S197 Wheels
    1998 Explorer Engine/Stock HO Cam 281rwhp/326rwtq

  10. #460

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    Alright, after all my struggles I'm on the verge of going the SN95 Spindle route. I can't for the life of me figure out why I can't get my brake system to jive correctly.

    My Setup:

    1978 Fairmont Futura
    Fronts - 60mm stock pistons, 10" Ranger Rotors
    Rears - 45mm Varga Style pistons on a '91 Mark VII rear
    M1858 1" bore Master Cylinder

    If I can swap out my stock Fairmont booster with this one I bought from a 87+ V8 car, I might try that before tearing things back down. The Fairmont stock booster doesn't have an adjustable pushrod. That's one hypothesis I'd like to test out, maybe the current rod isn't engaging the piston on the M/C right away, but really I don't know if that'd fix anything.

    I have a shot at getting '97 V6 car's front rotors/calipers/a-arms/spindles potentially...but from reading through, looks like rotors and calipers are my best bet, but better off holding out for 94/95 spndles? And A-arms aren't necessarily something I need from either a 94/95 or a 96-98? Or should I go after the A-arms from either of those?

    I'm running Crown Vic steelies, and have to use 1" spacers as is now for them to work up front, I'm really not worried about a wider track up front.

  11. #461

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    Quote Originally Posted by mudgepondexpress View Post
    From someone who just finished the cheaper "Ranger" conversion (a stop gap until I purchase enough Cobra parts)...

    The rear conversion went just like planned...easy to do. The front conversion has 3 minor issues that are all workable:

    3) The one I have never seen mentioned...The outside brake pad metal backing (there is a mouthfull) needs ground down to clear the rotor "hat". I just took it down on a bench grinder until I wast almost touching the brake material and it seems to clear. You just need to radius the semi-circular part.

    Yes, the grinding cost me an hour last night...was done with one side when I heard a weird scraping while rotating the wheel. I thought I would be finished by 11:30 but ended up working on it for another hour.

    Kenny
    I believe I am fighting this. And will be looking into it!

  12. #462
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    I thought I would stop in on this thread and mention there is some master cylinder discussion added here
    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...38#post1922438

    I'm not anywhere near done researching this stuff - but I am making progress. Hopefully we'll identify a master cylinder that's an ideal candidate where it doesn't require any new lines or fittings and has the perfect bore size, etc.

  13. #463

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    Any chance we know who sells the braided lines already done for the sn95 to the fox? I'm new here sorry if this already asked

  14. #464

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    ?????
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

  15. #465

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    Quote Originally Posted by RHFOX View Post
    Any chance we know who sells the braided lines already done for the sn95 to the fox? I'm new here sorry if this already asked
    First, Welcome to FEP!


    Below is a link to the Ford/FRPP M2300K (sn95 Cobra brake) upgrade for Fox bodies and sn95 cars.

    https://performanceparts.ford.com/do...htM-2300-K.pdf

    Just get braided stainless steel PTFE-lined hoses for the equivalent front hoses.

    Iirc, what I got:
    https://www.maximummotorsports.com/M...ont-P1341.aspx

    Instructions: https://www.maximummotorsports.com/A...kes/MMBK8F.pdf


    Fwiw, I bought them from LMR, since I was already doing an order with LMR. And, if that's the only thing you buy from MM, them LMR would be cheaper because of the shipping costs.
    https://lmr.com/item/MM-MMBK8F/87-93...stang-Calipers


    Fwiw, I buy just about all of my Mustang stuff from LMR.
    But, fell free to buy from who ever you want.

    Companies can change over time. I used to buy a lot from Mustang's Unlimited. Especially since I could drive to their Conn location, and pick it up in person.
    Now, I shop mainly from LMR.

    Also, imho, Maximum Motorsports is the brand to get parts from.


    No ties at all to companies mentioned above.


    Good Luck!
    Last edited by stangPlus2Birds; 05-02-2020 at 08:12 PM.

  16. #466

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    5 lug 4 wheel disc swap on my 86 Capri... Installed the 94 GT rear axle and struggling with the E brake set up do I only need the 2 94 GT E brake cables to get this done??? Other than this the car is ready to go..

    THANKS FOR ANY HELP

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  17. #467
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    This is should do the trick for you.

    https://lmr.com/item/LRS-2635D/1987-...ar-Disc-Brakes
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
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    Current Capris:
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  18. #468

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    That should be it just 2 cables Wraithracing??? Appreciate the help

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  19. #469
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    I have not noticed if this is documented in here

    Reportedly Mark 3 rotors are the same diameter and hat size and use the same bearings as 79-86 foxes ……and 87-93 4cyl — and they are 5 lug. Same bearing cap, seal, bearings, etc.

    An even more direct option than 83 Ranger 2.0 RWD rotors ….. although those do work too

    I have not personally tested this - just capturing what someone said

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