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  1. #376

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    I have a question on this I've got the whole brake setup from a 2000 front. Can I run these spindles? Is the only thing it will do is push the wheels out?

    I'm running tubular k member with flaming river rack and fox tie rods. Do I need different tie rods to make this work?

    Thanks. Also I'd like to use what I have instead of buying 94-95 spindles.
    1987 GT T-Top
    1986 LX Coupe 5.0 aod (saved from the grave)

  2. #377
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

  3. #378
    New User ID89GT's Avatar
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    Wow lots of great info in here guys.

    Just wanted to make sure I have everything correct so gonna list my parts list and see if any of you can tell me if I am missing anything before I start tearing into this thing haha.

    Okay well first off my car is an 85 Gt car. All original other than paint and wheels. I am wanting to do the full 5 lug 4 wheel disc conversion.

    What I have..

    95 Front spindles
    04 Cobra front calipers/rotors/rubber lines
    Brand new sn95 ball joints and lower control arm bushings

    Stock 8.8 from 91 Mustang with 3.73 installed
    95 gt rear axles
    95 gt rear calipers/rotors
    All 95 gt rear disc brake mounting brackets (Yes I know they have to be modified to work on the fox rear end)

    FRPP adjustable prop valve
    Prop plug for gutting stock prop valve

    I have been told the 85 lincoln master is the one I want.
    I have an SVO booster and master but was told the SVO master is to big.

    I also have a line lock kit I am wanting to throw in the mix as well so if anyone has any info on that that would be great.

    I been told there are fittings I will need to hook the Lincoln master up, I am pretty sure I have read about it but now can't seem to find it :/

    Just wondering if anyone can shed some info on the Lincoln master swap, and any other parts I may be missing. I know about the e brake cables but will do them later. Thanks in advance

    * Forgot to mention that I also am installing some Ford Racing B springs but I don't think they will affect anything.. *
    Last edited by ID89GT; 04-01-2015 at 10:15 PM.

  4. #379

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    The Lincoln/SVO m/c is waayyyyyy too big. You want to use either a 15/16" or 1" m/c. Which one depends on the brake pads used in the car.

    http://www.maximummotorsports.com/Ma...ang-P1221.aspx

    http://www.maximummotorsports.com/Ma...tang-P668.aspx

    Adapter lines for the m/c are below.

    http://www.maximummotorsports.com/Ma...ang-P1273.aspx

    http://www.maximummotorsports.com/Ma...ang-P1382.aspx

    The SVO booster will not fit with these m/c. You want to use your stock booster.

    The rear caliper brackets do not need any modification to work on your rear axle housing. With the 1994-98 rear axles, your wheel selection in the rear is going to be very limited as they will need a lot of back spacing to fit properly. Using S197 wheels is your best option.

    For one of the front brake hoses you will need the adapter below.

    http://www.maximummotorsports.com/MM...-FOX-P730.aspx
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

  5. #380
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    Thanks, Jack. I was working on a long post that would have explained the same thing, lol. I do have a question - I've been running the TC Master for years with no issue. There weren't adapters available when I originally started my project, either. What MC would work better? What benefit/change would I see in swapping to a different MC?

    Definitely stick with fox length axles and modified brackets for the rear, if you can. You'll thank yourself later. With my current rear suspension setup, I can't get much more than a 275 on the rear without worrying about rubbing. I'm running fox length axles as well. I couldn't imagine how difficult it would be with the SN95's.
    86 GT... 3.73's, elec fan, underdrive pulley, Bassani E/L Ceramic Coated Headers, Pypes Catted X, and Magnaflow Catback, MGW Shifter.
    5 Lug Conv, with cobra binders, TownCar MC, SN95 Booster
    H&R Race Fronts, Steeda 350# Rear Springs, MM CC plates, Tokico Illuminas, and a Steeda 5-Link-2
    Sounds:
    Image Dynamics IDQ 10.2 in a sealed enclosure with a RF Punch 201S amp

  6. #381
    New User ID89GT's Avatar
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    That is good to know about the Master cylinder, but I was told the Lincoln is a 1"?

    As for the rear caliper brackets they need to be modified to be able to bolt to the rear of the axle flange on the end. If you do it how they are on the sn95 cars then the rotors will hit the caliper mounting brackets.

    * Well after some research I have learned that the Lincoln is at 1.125" so that won't work, looks like ill be ordering one of the 2 you sent a link for. I like the stiffer pedal so should I go with the 15/16 or the 1"?
    Last edited by ID89GT; 04-01-2015 at 11:08 PM.

  7. #382

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    TC normally means Turbo Coupe. What are you using it as?

    If someone says Lincoln m/c, in my experience they are referring to a Lincoln Mark VII which uses the same m/c as an SVO mustang (1.125").

    The Lincoln Town Car does have a 1" m/c. I guess that you are referring to that application. It will bolt into your car, but will require at least one brake line to be modified to fit. The later model m/c from a Mustang is lighter, has a plastic reservoir that doesn't leak, you can see the fluid level and the line kit to install it already exists. There is no performance difference between the two.

    The SN95 caliper hanger brackets fit onto your 8.8" housing. There will not be any interference between the rotor and any other part. Pre 1994 and 1994-98 8.8" car housings have identical ends on them.
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

  8. #383

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    One thing to add. According to Centric, the pushrod hole depth on the Town Car m/c is about 0.25" deeper than on a Mustang m/c. The booster pushrod needs to be adjusted for this or you will have a lot of free play in the brake pedal. I'm not sure that it can be adjusted this far, but I think the odds are good.
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

  9. #384
    FEP Senior Member 86GTdriver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Hidley View Post
    One thing to add. According to Centric, the pushrod hole depth on the Town Car m/c is about 0.25" deeper than on a Mustang m/c. The booster pushrod needs to be adjusted for this or you will have a lot of free play in the brake pedal. I'm not sure that it can be adjusted this far, but I think the odds are good.
    To take up the slack on the brake pedal, which way do you have to twist the pushrod when looking at it from the front of the car? How many approximate twists on the wrench are we talking to bring it out .25"? I'm using the stock '86 booster and the '85 Town Car MC.
    '86 Mustang GT T-Top, 5-lug Cobra brake swap done
    '96 Mustang Cobra 302rwhp 296rwtq, Sold and missed
    '11 Mustang GT/CS, Traded and will be missed
    '13 Taurus SHO, Performance Pack, hit and run, totalled
    '17 Fusion Sport, Livernois tune, Steeda CAI, Steeda Rear Swaybar, Big Mouth Ram Air, GFB+ valve, Steeda Catch can, TTR FMIC (Garrett Core)

  10. #385

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    You will need to screw the booster pushrod CCW to take up slack in the brake pedal. You MUST accurately measure the pushrod length, counterbore depth in the m/c and adjust it that way. If it isn't adjusted correctly, the brakes can stay locked on.
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

  11. #386

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    As far as I can gather the only concern regarding this kit is the version of spindle they are using:
    http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...ar-Drums-79-93

    If they use 94-95 spindles the offsets would be unchanged?

  12. #387

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    In addition, the calipers they provide have 21% more piston area than the Fox Mustang calipers. This will result in 21% more front brake bias. To make the car stop properly, you will also need to install a kit to defeat the stock proportioning valve and an adjustable proportioning valve.

    This is also going to make the brake pedal travel nearly 21% more. I would install the kit with a 15/16" m/c.
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

  13. #388

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    Im running stock 4cyl brakes with early ranger rotors... Thats all i have to say lol

    Sent from my LG-LS980 using Tapatalk

  14. #389

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    What wheels CAN'T I use with the Ranger rotor swap? I never drive my car hard so I'm not really interested in the SN95 swap. No auto crossing or track stuff.

  15. #390

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    Idk lol they have a pretty big hub im running centerline telstars

    Sent from my LG-LS980 using Tapatalk

  16. #391

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    I am looking at buying this from a '95 GT part out for my '84 Convertible. So if I have this right, I need to ask the guy for:



    front brakes from the spindles out

    rear axles & brakes complete

    master cylinder with booster

    Is that correct?

  17. #392

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wing Nut View Post
    I am looking at buying this from a '95 GT part out for my '84 Convertible. So if I have this right, I need to ask the guy for:



    front brakes from the spindles out

    rear axles & brakes complete

    master cylinder with booster

    Is that correct?
    You'll want all the soft lines (whether you end up replacing them or not) and the fitting/bracket from the rear body to axle soft line. If you don't grab that fitting from him, you'll have a HELL of a time find one, and you NEED it. You'll probably have to make a little line to go from the right side of the car to that middle bracket to mate up with the '95 dual exhaust type lines. Either that or run new lines.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  18. #393
    FEP Senior Member 86GTdriver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wing Nut View Post
    I am looking at buying this from a '95 GT part out for my '84 Convertible. So if I have this right, I need to ask the guy for:



    front brakes from the spindles out

    rear axles & brakes complete

    master cylinder with booster

    Is that correct?
    You'll also want the loops that connect to the same bolt holes that your rear sway bar does that hold the e-brake cables away from the wheels. Every 94-04 has got them, but might as well grab them now.

    These are what I'm talking about:

    http://1.cdn.lib.americanmuscle.com/...ng-lca-015.jpg
    Last edited by 86GTdriver; 12-10-2015 at 06:52 PM.
    '86 Mustang GT T-Top, 5-lug Cobra brake swap done
    '96 Mustang Cobra 302rwhp 296rwtq, Sold and missed
    '11 Mustang GT/CS, Traded and will be missed
    '13 Taurus SHO, Performance Pack, hit and run, totalled
    '17 Fusion Sport, Livernois tune, Steeda CAI, Steeda Rear Swaybar, Big Mouth Ram Air, GFB+ valve, Steeda Catch can, TTR FMIC (Garrett Core)

  19. #394

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    Hi, All--

    I'm new to this forum, but have been a contributing member of several other forums for many years . . .

    I have a couple of questions regarding the SN95 upgrade; I've gone through the entire thread, but still am unsure about a few points.

    First--my config:


    • 89 Mustang LX 5.0 Coupe
    • Mark VII/Ranger 5- lug completed already
    • LMR 17X8" "Pony" replica wheels installed


    I have purchased the following parts for the SN95 upgrade:


    • Pair of 94 SN95 spindles with all associated parts (i.e.: hubs, 13" Cobra rotors, splash shields, 38mm PBR dual-piston calipers, hoses, etc.)
    • Pair of 94-98 28-spline axles
    • Ford Racing M-2300-M rear axle bracket kit
    • Pair of rebuilt SN95 rear calipers
    • Set of Motorcraft Cobra rear brake pads
    • Reproduction of Ford Racing M-2809-A and M-2810-A Parking Brake cables
    • Rebuilt 93 Cobra Power Brake Booster
    • Raybestos 94-95 Cobra Master Cylinder with 1" bore
    • All three rear hoses--right, left and center
    • I have a Wilwood Combination Proportioning valve I have left over from another project: (http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinde...emno=260-11179)


    I am planning to also upgrade to ABS (I have all the parts), though not sure if I will do it all in one fell swoop, or install the ABS later . . .

    I am strongly considering swapping in a Coyote, which will require the installation of a tubular K-Member and a Hydroboost setup . . . but I'm not going to do that right now, just doing the SN95 upgrade now

    Questions:

    1. I should be able to just use the Wilwood Combination/Proportioning valve instead of the OEM one modified, and the separate adjustable valve, right?
    2. If I go with ABS brakes, do I even need a combination/proportioning valve?
    3. I have been researching this swap for a couple of weeks, and ran across a few posts in some threads that said you can use ANY of the SN95 rear calipers, but you have to use the Cobra-specific caliper bracket that bolts onto the bracket on the axle . . . do I need to purchase these brackets? Or, are the brackets that come with the M-2300-M kit sufficient?
    4. Considering that I have an 89, should I get a set of CC plates, or would the stock plates work, with maybe some slotting of the top bolt in the struts?
    5. Aside from the toe-in and the camber, both of which are mentioned in the threads, are there any other front end alignment "gotchas"?
    6. The wheels I have were designed for use with the Fox-length axles and spindles . . . and since this is an 89, it has the smaller front wheel openings . . . is there a chance I might run into clearance issues?


    Additional Information:


    • I purchased the spindles from Car-Part.com for like $45 shipped; I would imagine others should be able to find some good deals on there as well (Edit: I just checked and I see some priced at $25 for each side, plus shipping)
    • The M-2300-M kit is out of production, and is quickly going up in price; the best price I could find anywhere was
      $278, so if you are contemplating this swap, I recommend you grab one of these kits before they become more outrageously priced! Aside from the wheels/tires, this was the single most expensive part of the swap I've purchased.
    • All of the parts except for the spindles are good quality New or Rebuilt (Motorcraft or OEM ford parts where possible, like the front hubs, for example); total cost so far aside from wheels/tires is about $1800
      (I have everything listed in a spreadsheet, complete with links to where I purchased the item); this amount includes prices for parts purchased over the last couple of years, so it might not reflect some of the current prices for some of the parts. It also doesn't include fluids, tool rental/purchase, and miscellaneous items like bolts, nuts, fittings, etc.--I figure those items may run another $100 or so.


    I am attaching a picture of my "Before and After" swap using the Mark VII/Ranger setup (total cost on that aside from wheels/tires was around $500, using all new parts)

    Name:  OldBlueBeforeAfte-NoTagsr.jpg
Views: 426
Size:  49.0 KB

  20. #395

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    1) Yes, but you will need to cut and flare tubes to do this. If you use the standard two port Wilwood valve and an MM-2450-A plug, no flaring or cutting will need to be done.

    2) Yes.

    3) Any SN95 rear caliper will work, but you must use the Cobra specific hanger. See the link below. Most people consider this part of the caliper. The M-2300-M kit does not include these.

    http://s1008.photobucket.com/user/98...w7lvc.jpg.html

    4) With the spindle swap, you will probably need the c/c plates to get the camber adjusted correctly.

    5) Adjust caster to maximum positive possible, but equal side to side.

    6) No problems here.

    The 1994-95 Mustang Cobra m/c is not 1" diameter. It is 15/16".

    If you use a 15/16" m/c with a 1993 Mustang Cobra power booster, you are going to have an absurdly sensitive brake pedal. Install everything with the stock booster first. Use real front brake pads (not ceramic) and it will work well.
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

  21. #396

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    Thanks, Jack!!

    I misspoke regarding the Master Cylinder; what I have is a Bendix 12875, which is a Base/GT M/C, with a 1" bore, not the Cobra M/C as I mentioned in my original post.

    As far as cutting and flaring tubing, I have a VERY good flaring tool that can do all kinds of different types of flares, so no worries there.

    I checked my calipers, and they have the standard base/GT brackets, so I just ordered a pair from Rockauto; they should be here on Friday

    Thanks!

  22. #397

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    The left brake line can be used on the right (passenger side), and save the adapter hunt.
    All you have to do is grind the corner of the line block (mirror the angle already there) an wala..

  23. #398
    FEP Senior Member
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    Hi all, I am considering the SN 95 swap for my 83 convertible (it was originally a V6 car, but it now has a V.

    Can I use the complete rear differential from a 94/95 GT, plus all the front wheel components (spindles, hubs, calipers, discs, etc)? I understand I would need a 93 cobra booster with a 94/95 MC, can I use a 93 Booster/ MC combo as well?

    Will this setup work with 03 Bullit wheels without them sticking out or the center caps not fitting?

  24. #399

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    I just did all this, but have yet to drive it to verify everything. You can check my build thread if you like

  25. #400
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Basically any 5 lug wheel will be fine when you convert to sn95 spindles.

    Hats are only a concern when using Lincoln or Ranger rotors with stock spindles - several newer popular wheels don't fit these. 1994-1995 tribar are an example of wheels that will fit a stock spindle with 5 lug rotor just fine.

    In my opinion, unless you also run a panhard bar and undersized tires in the rear the 94-98 rearends are too wide to use under a fox with 1994-2004 rims without rolling the rear quarters at the wheel opening.

    I currently run a 1995 GT rear diff with 1995 tribar 17" rims and 245/45/17 tires. It doesn't fit well with this offset of rim.

    Since I have a very specific look in mind, I plan to rebuild my fox 8.8 and use the SN95 adapter brackets then add 3/8" spacers to achieve a more favorable track width for these rims on a fox.

    I use a 1" bore Lincoln MC on my 86GT. Part number M1858 from Advance Mcparts with factory booster.

    This master cyl required 1 line adapter, Autozone stocked it. I'm a fan of metal MC because it slows the process down of heating up brake fluid and it helps cool it much more than plastic.

    Brakes are dual piston 99GT fronts, 1995GT rear. Drilled/slotted Baer rotors with performance friction pads. The 99-04 dual piston calipers are a bit notorious for lightly sticking. I ended up with a bad caliper when I sourced them from the scrap heap and had one hang up just slightly - boiled the fluid and lost brakes - "fun". You've been warned. I'd go Cobra if I had it to do again.

    Summit adjustable proportioning valve installed at factory union on passenger side.

    stock one received an LMR plug.

    if you want locks, you need to be sure your approach addresses keeping a working "brake" sensor but other than that you can remove the stock prop valve and put the locks in right there along with the adjustable proportioning valve.

    My setup works great.

    My friend has 2004 cobra brakes up front with same stuff in back. He had SVO cyl - way too little pedal actuation! He swapped to 1" like mine, everything else is the same.

    he redid the double flare fittings on his. I hit up LMR and simply used adapters.

    LMR carries the adapter for the passenger side to run 2004 lines. I run braided lines.

    You will likely need camber bolts to get your front steering geometry where you want it. I run mine at -2 camber with my struts shoved all the way back towards the windshield to maximize caster. It's important to keep your struts near plumb if you want large rims and tires to fit without rubbing.
    Last edited by erratic50; 04-19-2017 at 11:25 PM.

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