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  1. #226
    New User 82RS's Avatar
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    What a great thread, I love this site.

  2. #227
    FEP Member Ausfox's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnykids86 View Post
    ok I went and just went thru all 9 pages of this and my head is going to explode!! I have purchased a 94/95 front set up for my 86 GT. I would like to keep the stock a-arms. I am not a fan of using spacers for some reason can i just buy 94/95 ball joints and have them pressed into my 86 front arms? thanks for any help..
    Can anyone answer skinnykids question, can 94/95 ball joints be used in earlier arms?

    Also not a fan of using spacers.

    Cheers from Australia.

    .
    CURRENT RIDES AND PROJECTS
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  3. #228

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ausfox View Post
    ...can 94/95 ball joints be used in earlier arms?
    Yes, SN95 ball joints can be pressed into Fox A-arms.

    In this case spacers are not a problem. The reason for the spacers is simply because the nut runs too far down the shank of the ball joint. I would recommend using the spacers unless you need new ball joints, then by all means install SN95 ones.

    --Vince
    + Jalapeņo Red 1985 Mustang GT, 347 in^3, Canfield heads, 650DP, X-Celerator, & 1-5/8" LT's
    + Tremec 3550, D&D shifter, 3.73:1 gears, & TrueTrac differential
    + EVM watts & 3-link, Homemade LCA's, & Koni SA's
    + '00 Cobra R Brembos in front and SN95 Cobra rear brakes, R58 rims, & 275/40R17 Falkens
    www.1985mustanggt.com

  4. #229

    Question 5 lug convertion for my 79 Ghia

    What's up guys. I have a 79 mustang Ghia all stock with the 5.0 and stock rear end. I would like to keep my 7.5 rear end but I want to make it a 5 lug. I also want the front but I want to know what I need to do to archive the 5 lug without swapping rear ends. What would I need for the front also. Its my daily driver and i just want it to look good. I'm putting some FR500 wheels. So please let me know what parts I need to make my car a 5 lug.

  5. #230
    FEP Power Member blackgt85's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ausfox View Post
    can 94/95 ball joints be used in earlier arms?
    .
    Thats what I did with my 85........ So, yes, it works!


    Justin
    1985 Mustang GT 5.0 CFI/AOD (originally)
    Now: 306, AFR 185s, Edelbrock Victor Jr. 302 Intake, Pro-Systems 4150HP, FTI/Ed Curtis custom cam, 170amp large case 3G Alternator, PA AOD with Silverfox SPT-MAC valve body, 3500rpm Stall, FRPP Aluminum Driveshaft, MM C/C plates, Tokico HP's, MM full length SFC's, SN95 Cobra brakes front and rear, 31 spline Fox length 8.8" with 4.10's, MM rear lowers and FRPP uppers, a few other MM suspension goodies, Jet Hot ceramic coated FRPP shorties, Pypes X-pipe, SpinTech Pro Streets and some other go fast parts.

    1984 Mustang LX 5.0 4bbl/T5 (Sold)

    LS swaps are the hair implants of the car world. Sure the owner is proud, but everyone else is laughing.

  6. #231
    FEP Power Member kj_80Cobra's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 80coupe80 View Post
    What's up guys. I have a 79 mustang Ghia all stock with the 5.0 and stock rear end. I would like to keep my 7.5 rear end but I want to make it a 5 lug. I also want the front but I want to know what I need to do to archive the 5 lug without swapping rear ends. What would I need for the front also. Its my daily driver and i just want it to look good. I'm putting some FR500 wheels. So please let me know what parts I need to make my car a 5 lug.
    Please read all of this and it will answer all your questions.
    http://home.comcast.net/~mjbobbitt/mustang/page1.html

  7. #232

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    Thanks kj 80cobra for the info. I know that I have to swap the front spindles from a 87-93 mustang but it did not have any info about how to do a 5 lug conversion on a 7.5 rear end. I'm going to post a new thread so I can get more info from other people. Thanks for the info.

  8. #233
    FEP Power Member kj_80Cobra's Avatar
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    Rear end is easy, pull out old axles, put in Fox length five lug axles or SN95 length five lug axles.

  9. #234

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    Quote Originally Posted by 80coupe80 View Post
    Thanks kj 80cobra for the info. I know that I have to swap the front spindles from a 87-93 mustang but it did not have any info about how to do a 5 lug conversion on a 7.5 rear end. I'm going to post a new thread so I can get more info from other people. Thanks for the info.
    There is no reason for a new thread. The 7.5" rear end and the 8.8" rear end use the same axles and brakes. Only the housings, gears, and differentials are different between them.

    You are not getting a lot of responses because this information is available in many places. A little searching and reading will go a long way.


    --Vince
    + Jalapeņo Red 1985 Mustang GT, 347 in^3, Canfield heads, 650DP, X-Celerator, & 1-5/8" LT's
    + Tremec 3550, D&D shifter, 3.73:1 gears, & TrueTrac differential
    + EVM watts & 3-link, Homemade LCA's, & Koni SA's
    + '00 Cobra R Brembos in front and SN95 Cobra rear brakes, R58 rims, & 275/40R17 Falkens
    www.1985mustanggt.com

  10. #235
    FEP Member dansmach's Avatar
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    Is there a bracket that will let you use the 94 & up rear rotor/calipers with the ranger axles in order to keep the stock Fox body axle width?
    1986 GT / 5 speed. 331 stroker, AFR 185 heads, E303, Scorpion 1.6 RR's, Trick Flow intake, 70mm TB & EGR spacer, 30 lbs injectors/MAF, Cold Air Intake, MSD Ignition, Ford Racing shorty headers, Flowmaster exhaust w/OR H-pipe, Mishimoto Aluminum Radiator, Black Majic electric fan, 3.73 gears, 17x9 Cobra R wheels, 255/40/17 Nitto 555 tires up front and 275/40/17 Nitto 555R out back. Hotchkis CC plates, Strange Adjustable shocks/struts, Cobra disc brakes, Ford Racing B springs

  11. #236

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    http://northracecars.com/Brakes.html

    Get the bracket in the first row, second column.

  12. #237
    FEP Member dansmach's Avatar
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    Perfect! Thanks!
    1986 GT / 5 speed. 331 stroker, AFR 185 heads, E303, Scorpion 1.6 RR's, Trick Flow intake, 70mm TB & EGR spacer, 30 lbs injectors/MAF, Cold Air Intake, MSD Ignition, Ford Racing shorty headers, Flowmaster exhaust w/OR H-pipe, Mishimoto Aluminum Radiator, Black Majic electric fan, 3.73 gears, 17x9 Cobra R wheels, 255/40/17 Nitto 555 tires up front and 275/40/17 Nitto 555R out back. Hotchkis CC plates, Strange Adjustable shocks/struts, Cobra disc brakes, Ford Racing B springs

  13. #238

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    You can also modify the stock brackets to work with Fox length axles. See this thread:

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=71585


    --Vince
    + Jalapeņo Red 1985 Mustang GT, 347 in^3, Canfield heads, 650DP, X-Celerator, & 1-5/8" LT's
    + Tremec 3550, D&D shifter, 3.73:1 gears, & TrueTrac differential
    + EVM watts & 3-link, Homemade LCA's, & Koni SA's
    + '00 Cobra R Brembos in front and SN95 Cobra rear brakes, R58 rims, & 275/40R17 Falkens
    www.1985mustanggt.com

  14. #239

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    Hello All, new member here. I have a 81 coupe 2.3 car completely stock. I am planning on going with a 351W after I finish the 5 lug upgrade. I am not planning on changing the K-member anytime in the near future.
    Based on what Vince has posted. I should use the SN95 control arms instead of Fox since I’m not planning on changing the K-member?

    Do I have to use CC plates?

    Are 99-04 calipers a better option since they cover less surface? I’ve read somewhere that you have to do some minor grinding on the 94-95 spindles for the 99-04 calipers to work, I’m sure this isn’t a problem since a lot of people go this route.

    If I go with 99-04 calipers can I use an 85 town car MC with stock booster?

    If I set my car up with 87+ V8 springs and struts, I need to be able to still drive it with the 4 cyl. in it until I can afford to rebuild my 351W, is that going to cause any major problems?

    Thanks in advance, I just couldn't find the answers to these questions anywhere, oh and this is going to be a daily driver, maybe I’ll take it to the drag strip every once in awhile, going to be running 17 X 8 Bullits with 245/45R17’s.

  15. #240
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    If your going with the sn95 arms up front i would also do the sn95 axles out back to stay consistent front and rear width. with this change you are limited to wheel choice. you may also look into 05' and up wheel fitment for your setup. Although i think your 17x8 bullitts should be fine.
    Neal

  16. #241

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    Quote Originally Posted by neald View Post
    If your going with the sn95 arms up front i would also do the sn95 axles out back to stay consistent front and rear width. with this change you are limited to wheel choice. you may also look into 05' and up wheel fitment for your setup. Although i think your 17x8 bullitts should be fine.
    I do have a Mark VII rear end already (not sure what year it came out of, I do know its a 8.8 posi with 3.24 gears), but after reading this whole tread, I have already decided to do away with the Mark brakes and axles and search for some SN95 rear disc stuff and axles

  17. #242

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    Quote Originally Posted by unometooo View Post
    I have a 81 coupe 2.3 car completely stock. I am not planning on changing the K-member anytime in the near future. [It is] going to be a daily driver, maybe I’ll take it to the drag strip every once in awhile, going to be running 17 X 8 Bullits with 245/45R17’s.

    I should use the SN95 control arms instead of Fox since I’m not planning on changing the K-member?

    Do I have to use CC plates?

    Are 99-04 calipers a better option since they cover less surface? I’ve read somewhere that you have to do some minor grinding on the 94-95 spindles for the 99-04 calipers to work.

    If I go with 99-04 calipers can I use an 85 town car MC with stock booster?

    If I set my car up with 87+ V8 springs and struts, I need to be able to still drive it with the 4 cyl. in it until I can afford to rebuild my 351W, is that going to cause any major problems?
    Welcome to FEP! I will give my $0.02 about your questions...

    You will either need an '87-'95 V8 K-member or SN95 A-arms. Since you do not plan on changing the K-member then you will need the SN95 A-arms.

    You may be able to use the stock upper strut mount if you slot the top of the strut tower. Personally, I would buy some STEEL C-C plates. The MM ones are the best, but there are others that will work OK.

    I don't quite get your question. What surface areas are you comparing? I think that you are comparing the '94-'98 front caliper piston size to the '99-'04 front caliper piston size. Based on that assumption, "Yes". Use the '99-'04 V6/GT front brakes or the Cobra front brakes. The '94-'98 V6/GT brakes are not very desirable except for the 5-lugs. The '99-'04 V6/GT brakes will require some very minor clearancing on the spindles but this is very simple.

    If you go with the '99-'04 V6/GT front & rear brakes, '94-'98 Cobra front & rear brakes, or '99-'04 Cobra front & rear brakes then you should use a 1" MC. You have several choices: 1) '85 Town Car, 2) '93 Cobra, 3) '99-'04 V6, and 4) '73 Ranchero (not personally verified). The Town Car and the Ranchero use SAE threads and the others use Metric threads. The Ranchero MC is supposed to be a direct fit, but it is only available in cast iron. The Town car MC requires one adapter and it is available in aluminum. The newer MC's are aluminum with the plastic reservoir but they require metric fittings.

    The all cast iron I-4 is almost the same weight as the aluminum headed V8. Your V8 springs will be fine with the I-4.

    Good luck.


    --Vince
    + Jalapeņo Red 1985 Mustang GT, 347 in^3, Canfield heads, 650DP, X-Celerator, & 1-5/8" LT's
    + Tremec 3550, D&D shifter, 3.73:1 gears, & TrueTrac differential
    + EVM watts & 3-link, Homemade LCA's, & Koni SA's
    + '00 Cobra R Brembos in front and SN95 Cobra rear brakes, R58 rims, & 275/40R17 Falkens
    www.1985mustanggt.com

  18. #243

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    Quote Originally Posted by 85GTVince View Post
    The '99-'04 V6/GT brakes will require some very minor clearancing on the spindles but this is very simple.
    What exactly needs to be clearenced Vince? Just asking for my future reference.
    I should add that the 95 Calipers on my car can stop it in a hurry, but i also have rear disc, prop valve, and 03 GT hydroboost with the 03 MC
    Last edited by theemustangman; 02-04-2011 at 07:55 AM.
    No Longer a 4I Owner
    But Have way too much 4I stuff Collecting Dust.

  19. #244

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    Quote Originally Posted by theemustangman View Post
    What exactly needs to be clearenced Vince? Just asking for my future reference.
    I might add the 95 Calipers on my car can stop it in a hurry, but i also have rear disc, prop valve, and 03 GT hydroboost with the 03 MC
    From memory it is just a minor grind on the caliper mounting ears. There are pictures in a thread on the Corral. I will post them when I find them.


    --Vince
    + Jalapeņo Red 1985 Mustang GT, 347 in^3, Canfield heads, 650DP, X-Celerator, & 1-5/8" LT's
    + Tremec 3550, D&D shifter, 3.73:1 gears, & TrueTrac differential
    + EVM watts & 3-link, Homemade LCA's, & Koni SA's
    + '00 Cobra R Brembos in front and SN95 Cobra rear brakes, R58 rims, & 275/40R17 Falkens
    www.1985mustanggt.com

  20. #245
    FEP Power Member 82stangracer's Avatar
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    I know that if I use 94/95 spindles on my stock A arm the stud will be too tall requiring a spacer under the castle nut, but my question is could I put a 94/95 ball joint on the my A arm to avoid using the spacer? Or could I drill a hole lower on the stud for the cotter pin?
    Chris

    Had
    Too many that I wish I'd kept!

    Have
    69 Mach 1 "M" Code
    82 GT 308(my 1st stang)
    82 GT T-top (a new beginning) Rebuild Thread
    71 Torino GT

  21. #246

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    Quote Originally Posted by 82stangracer View Post
    I know that if I use 94/95 spindles on my stock A arm the stud will be too tall requiring a spacer under the castle nut, but my question is could I put a 94/95 ball joint on the my A arm to avoid using the spacer? Or could I drill a hole lower on the stud for the cotter pin?
    From what I have read in this thread, you can have the sn95 ball joints pressed into the stock control arms of your car, I my self am going with sn95 control arms for a little more width and better camber. I dont really know about drilling a new cotter pin hole in the fox ball joint.
    Last edited by unometooo; 02-03-2011 at 07:54 PM.

  22. #247

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    you can press sn95 ball joints into your stock a arms. I just finished installing 95 ball joints into my stock 86 arms.

  23. #248
    FEP Power Member 82stangracer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by unometooo View Post
    From what I have read in this thread, you can have the sn95 ball joints pressed into the stock control arms of your car, I my self am going with sn95 control arms for a little more width and better camber. I dont really know about drilling a new cotter pin hole in the fox ball joint.
    Quote Originally Posted by 86foureyedfox View Post
    you can press sn95 ball joints into your stock a arms. I just finished installing 95 ball joints into my stock 86 arms.
    Great, Thanks!
    Chris

    Had
    Too many that I wish I'd kept!

    Have
    69 Mach 1 "M" Code
    82 GT 308(my 1st stang)
    82 GT T-top (a new beginning) Rebuild Thread
    71 Torino GT

  24. #249

    Default a little help and advice

    Hey Guys, just wanting a little help and advice. I bought these 94 spindles and hubs a while back on eBay. They are totally rebuilt and like brand new, they've also been clearance for the larger cobra brakes.



    I found these brakes on craigslist. This is the guys description: Front brake rotors and calipers from a 97 Mustang GT pulled at <20k mi
    Question is: Will these work with the spindles I have and at $30 is this a great deal? Also is it safe to buy used brakes like this. From the pic they don't look good to me but to someone else these may look great. I'm just not that knowledgeable about brakes!

    Thanks, Scott

    -Scott

    2012 Hyundai Sonata 2.0t Limited[/COLOR][/B]

  25. #250
    FEP Power Member MAD MIKE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NewSchool View Post
    Question is: Will these work with the spindles I have and at $30 is this a great deal? Also is it safe to buy used brakes like this. From the pic they don't look good to me but to someone else these may look great. I'm just not that knowledgeable about brakes!
    Thanks, Scott
    Those are the '94-'98 V6/GT calipers. At a glance they look pretty good. You will want to mic the rotos, and check the pads for even wear. An angled or uneven pad wear will tell if there is something wrong with the calipers. The hoses may be fine, but its not something I would chance, but you do not know if the calipers were dangled off the hoses on removal. Replace them.
    Otherwise for $30 that's not a bad deal.
    -Michael
    '79 Fairmont 5dr 'car guy safe' MM Tech Tips StopTech Brake Bias StopTech White Papers

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