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  1. #301
    FEP Member dansmach's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vannnce View Post
    Do you have any problems with the breaks locking up? I was going to buy a master cylinder and booster tomorrow but after reading this i think ill just go with the master cylinder.

    Also its best to uprgrade to sn-95 a arms over stock right?
    I don't have a single problem with the brakes. By far the best mod I have done so far. IMHO the stock booster is perfect. Firm pedal but, no effort to make it stop. Gives me more of a feel as to how the brakes are responding I think. It may lock up easier with the larger booster installed but, I have never driven one with it to comment acurately.

    I used the fox A-arms and BJ's with a spacer. There is a post earlier in this thread that describes the difference in A-arms and wheel choice. It's a long thread but very good information in it. Basically, the SN95 A-arms are longer and you will need a wheel with more backspacing to fit it under the fender. Those wheels are getting harder to find.
    1986 GT / 5 speed. 331 stroker, AFR 185 heads, E303, Scorpion 1.6 RR's, Trick Flow intake, 70mm TB & EGR spacer, 30 lbs injectors/MAF, Cold Air Intake, MSD Ignition, Ford Racing shorty headers, Flowmaster exhaust w/OR H-pipe, Mishimoto Aluminum Radiator, Black Majic electric fan, 3.73 gears, 17x9 Cobra R wheels, 255/40/17 Nitto 555 tires up front and 275/40/17 Nitto 555R out back. Hotchkis CC plates, Strange Adjustable shocks/struts, Cobra disc brakes, Ford Racing B springs

  2. #302
    FEP Member dansmach's Avatar
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    Sorry, it was in another thread. Thanks Trey for the great information.

    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    Generally the 17X9 Cobra R with a 24mm offset works well with the 94/95 spindles and a Fox front control arm.

    If you upgrade to the SN95 control arm you will need the 36mm offset Cobra R in order to fit the wheel under the front fenders.

    I ass-ume you know that you shouldn't use the 96+ front spindles on a fox unless you have an tubular K member due to inability to correct the bumpsteer with the 96+ spindles.

    You should be able to ditch the spacer with the new spindles.

    Hope that helps. I have this set up on my Pace car so I can give you more details if needed.

    Trey
    1986 GT / 5 speed. 331 stroker, AFR 185 heads, E303, Scorpion 1.6 RR's, Trick Flow intake, 70mm TB & EGR spacer, 30 lbs injectors/MAF, Cold Air Intake, MSD Ignition, Ford Racing shorty headers, Flowmaster exhaust w/OR H-pipe, Mishimoto Aluminum Radiator, Black Majic electric fan, 3.73 gears, 17x9 Cobra R wheels, 255/40/17 Nitto 555 tires up front and 275/40/17 Nitto 555R out back. Hotchkis CC plates, Strange Adjustable shocks/struts, Cobra disc brakes, Ford Racing B springs

  3. #303
    FEP Power Member 85Coupe50's Avatar
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    Default Rear hardline to SN95 softline fitting / adapter

    If it hasn't been posted the rear hard line to SN95 softline is 3/8 female to 7/16 male either Co.:
    Weatherhead 7818
    Edelman 121034

    I must have over looked it as I didn't find it right away.
    Only 1 Four eye left now and it is a 64 fairlane 2 door post! Think 408W with Griggs GR350 suspension!

  4. #304

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    Thank dansmach. Great info exactly what i needed. Looks like i just need to figure out what wheels ill be runnin :thumbup
    Still got the '80 capri. Covered and kept in storage until i finish my IBEW apprenticeship and move back home. In the meantime I'll lurk around here or you can catch me on Powerstroke.org OR Fullsizebronco.com

  5. #305

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    hey thank you to everyone who contributed to this collection,
    assuming it works for me.

    is the information on spindles based on manufacture date or model year?,

    i found a v6 made in 95 for all my swap parts, are those spindles going to make the wheel base wider in the front, and should i care and space the back out....

    i should be able to get the whole setup from one car. front and rear disk w/ rear axles, but im just going to bolt the 95 MC to my 82 booster and change the guts of the proportioning valve. and buy the odd do dad, brake line obviously. is this right

    thank you soo much for this pricless info

  6. #306

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    anybody have a hard time with pbr calipers not grabbing, i tried bleeding them but still the pedal goes straight to the floor. i didnt notice any leaks. its kind of wierd it didnt seem like when i was bleeding them there was alot of pressure when i would crack the bleeder open with the pedal to the floor.
    85 T-TOP GT,SN95 5 lug,8.8 w/3.73s, O/R X,Flow 40s,Steeda Triax,Saleen springs,04 cobra wheels,Mach 1 chin spoiler,Chopped antenna, BBK LT's, Double hump crossmember, aluminum driveline, smoked lenses.

    parts waiting for install:
    various polished engine parts
    New weatherstripping
    1.7 Roller rockers
    new emblems

  7. #307
    FEP Member dansmach's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by marshall725 View Post
    anybody have a hard time with pbr calipers not grabbing, i tried bleeding them but still the pedal goes straight to the floor. i didnt notice any leaks. its kind of wierd it didnt seem like when i was bleeding them there was alot of pressure when i would crack the bleeder open with the pedal to the floor.
    I'm assuming that you've upgraded all of the brakes. It takes quite a while to completeley bleed the system once it has been opened up on all four corners. I had both my daughters sitting in the seat pumping the brake pedal, complaining the whole time. Just start with the right rear then the left rear, ending up with the left front last.
    1986 GT / 5 speed. 331 stroker, AFR 185 heads, E303, Scorpion 1.6 RR's, Trick Flow intake, 70mm TB & EGR spacer, 30 lbs injectors/MAF, Cold Air Intake, MSD Ignition, Ford Racing shorty headers, Flowmaster exhaust w/OR H-pipe, Mishimoto Aluminum Radiator, Black Majic electric fan, 3.73 gears, 17x9 Cobra R wheels, 255/40/17 Nitto 555 tires up front and 275/40/17 Nitto 555R out back. Hotchkis CC plates, Strange Adjustable shocks/struts, Cobra disc brakes, Ford Racing B springs

  8. #308
    FEP Power Member 82stangracer's Avatar
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    Default 5 lug swap on my '82

    Getting ready to do the swap and want to clear a few things up.
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    Here's my '94 spindles, etc. I am going to keep my stock K member and A arms. I'm not changing the MC or booster at this time. Things I'm going to get are SN95 ball joints, pass. side hardline adapter, '87-'93 v8 struts. Now I have a couple of questions for the front. 1) Performance stance aside, can I achieve alignment for normal tire wear with the stock cc plates or do I have to buy aftermarket cc plates? 2) Is there anything else that I NEED aside from what I listed?

    I'm all set on the rear except one thing. Can someone post a specific link to the hub spacers I need to center the wheels on the ranger axles. I checked on discbrackes-r-us, but couldn't find them. Thanks for your help!
    Chris

    Had
    Too many that I wish I'd kept!

    Have
    69 Mach 1 "M" Code
    82 GT 308(my 1st stang)
    82 GT T-top (a new beginning) Rebuild Thread
    71 Torino GT

  9. #309

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    Chris,

    The new spindles are going to give you about 1.7 degrees more positive camber than your current spindles. You can probably move your existing strut mounts inboard to get about 0 camber.

    This is the closest off the shelf hub centering ring that you can get for a Ford 5-lug wheel (2.775") on a drum brake axle pilot (2.52"). The OD of the ring is about 0.020" larger than the line to line dimension for the ID of the wheel, but it will probably squeeze in fine.

    http://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Automo...5511309&sr=1-1

    Since you are installing the 1994 front brakes, your front caliper piston size is going up from 60mm to 66mm. That is a 21% increase in front caliper piston area which will make a 21% increase in front brake torque. This will do two things. One, there will be 21% more pedal travel, which is ok provided you don't have air in your lines. It will just feel weird. Two, it will make the front tires lock up a lot earlier than the rears. This is safe from a stability standpoint, but will increase your braking distances. I would install an adjustable proportioning valve and disable the stock proportioning valve when you install the front brakes. This will allow you to increase the bias to the rear brakes under harder stops and reduce the stopping distances.

  10. #310
    FEP Power Member 82stangracer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Hidley View Post
    Chris,

    The new spindles are going to give you about 1.7 degrees more positive camber than your current spindles. You can probably move your existing strut mounts inboard to get about 0 camber.

    This is the closest off the shelf hub centering ring that you can get for a Ford 5-lug wheel (2.775") on a drum brake axle pilot (2.52"). The OD of the ring is about 0.020" larger than the line to line dimension for the ID of the wheel, but it will probably squeeze in fine.

    http://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Automo...5511309&sr=1-1

    Since you are installing the 1994 front brakes, your front caliper piston size is going up from 60mm to 66mm. That is a 21% increase in front caliper piston area which will make a 21% increase in front brake torque. This will do two things. One, there will be 21% more pedal travel, which is ok provided you don't have air in your lines. It will just feel weird. Two, it will make the front tires lock up a lot earlier than the rears. This is safe from a stability standpoint, but will increase your braking distances. I would install an adjustable proportioning valve and disable the stock proportioning valve when you install the front brakes. This will allow you to increase the bias to the rear brakes under harder stops and reduce the stopping distances.
    Is 0 camber would be level tire wear right? Thanks for the link. I plan on working on the P valve and looking at MC upgrades, just not til after the swap. Thanks!!
    Chris

    Had
    Too many that I wish I'd kept!

    Have
    69 Mach 1 "M" Code
    82 GT 308(my 1st stang)
    82 GT T-top (a new beginning) Rebuild Thread
    71 Torino GT

  11. #311

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    This depends on how hard you corner. If you corner very slowly, 0 camber will give you very flat tire wear. If you corner moderately, you want -0.5 to -0.75 camber. If you corner hard, you want even more negative camber.

  12. #312
    FEP Power Member 82stangracer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Hidley View Post
    This depends on how hard you corner. If you corner very slowly, 0 camber will give you very flat tire wear. If you corner moderately, you want -0.5 to -0.75 camber. If you corner hard, you want even more negative camber.
    Well, I live way out in the country on a purty curvey road, so I will probably need some extra - camber. If I was to use hthese C springs in the front, would that give me enough - camber or would it give me too much? And do you know what degree the camber is on most mustangs from the factory?
    Last edited by 82stangracer; 09-09-2011 at 11:54 PM.
    Chris

    Had
    Too many that I wish I'd kept!

    Have
    69 Mach 1 "M" Code
    82 GT 308(my 1st stang)
    82 GT T-top (a new beginning) Rebuild Thread
    71 Torino GT

  13. #313

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    Chris,

    Going from your stock front springs to the C spring will probably make the front camber about 0.75 degrees more negative, due to the change in ride height.

    From 1979-82 all Mustangs had a camber spec of +0.25 degrees. From 1983-86 it was 0 degrees. From 1987-89 it was very close to 0 degrees depending on the model. From 1990-2003 it was about -0.5 degrees depending on model.

  14. #314
    FEP Power Member 82stangracer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Hidley View Post
    Chris,

    Going from your stock front springs to the C spring will probably make the front camber about 0.75 degrees more negative, due to the change in ride height.

    From 1979-82 all Mustangs had a camber spec of +0.25 degrees. From 1983-86 it was 0 degrees. From 1987-89 it was very close to 0 degrees depending on the model. From 1990-2003 it was about -0.5 degrees depending on model.
    Great. Thanks for the specs too!
    Chris

    Had
    Too many that I wish I'd kept!

    Have
    69 Mach 1 "M" Code
    82 GT 308(my 1st stang)
    82 GT T-top (a new beginning) Rebuild Thread
    71 Torino GT

  15. #315

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    I have two questions that I dont think have been answered in this thread yet.
    1. Can I use the fox lines with the SN95 calipers if I have the SN95 bolts?
    2. Is the rear from a 95 V6 an 7.5 or 8.8?

  16. #316

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    Quote Originally Posted by marshall725 View Post
    anybody have a hard time with pbr calipers not grabbing, i tried bleeding them but still the pedal goes straight to the floor. i didnt notice any leaks. its kind of wierd it didnt seem like when i was bleeding them there was alot of pressure when i would crack the bleeder open with the pedal to the floor.
    I had to bleed all 4 on my 1982 GT (95 GT 4wheel disc upgrades w/ 2K hydroboost upgrade), and it took nearly 45 mins to fully bleed them, if you have a prop valve installed make sure it is wide open iirc (biased to rear)for faster bleeding on rear
    Last edited by theemustangman; 10-24-2011 at 08:17 PM.
    No Longer a 4I Owner
    But Have way too much 4I stuff Collecting Dust.

  17. #317

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    1) I do not believe that the hoses will be the correct length to fit. One side will not screw onto the Fox hard lines at all.

    2) The 1995 V6 uses a 7.5" differential.

  18. #318
    FEP Power Member MAD MIKE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FastFox View Post
    I have two questions that I dont think have been answered in this thread yet.
    1. Can I use the fox lines with the SN95 calipers if I have the SN95 bolts?
    2. Is the rear from a 95 V6 an 7.5 or 8.8?
    78-'86 and '87-'93 I4 cars use a hose that screws directly into the caliper and this will not work.

    '87-'93 5.0 lines IIRC use a large square block. '94-'04 cars use a square block with a side cut short. There is a step on the SN95 PBR calipers that prevents using the factory style '87-'93 square hose end on the SN95 caliper.
    However, most ss braided lines use a round banjo head, rather than a block, that will clear the step.

    On a '78-'86 car you can use the ss braided lines for a '87-'93 5.0 car, in conjunction with the '94-'04 calipers. The only thing you will have to do then is open up the hose bracket that is bolted to the car. IIRC the early and I4 cars need to have this bracket opened up to 7/8" and then file down flats to allow for the locking of the hose. Ford also did one more difference on the '87-'93 5.0 cars. On early and I4 cars the hard line for the front ends pointing towards the front. On the '87-'93 5.0s the hard line is bent a final 180* and points towards the firewall.

    The SN95 hoses are left right specific, Ford installed different sidzed ferrules on the ends. IIRC one is 3/8" and the other is 7/16" the hard line and hose are themselves are still the same size.
    -Michael
    '79 Fairmont 5dr 'car guy safe' MM Tech Tips StopTech Brake Bias StopTech White Papers

  19. #319

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    If I go with a Lincoln Mark VII rear, Will I still have to use the FMS e-brake cables, or can I use the SVO cables?

  20. #320

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    I'm 95% sure that the FMS e-brake cables will not work with the Mark VII rear brakes. You will need to use the SVO e-brake cables.

  21. #321

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    maybe i missed this some where but i'm having trouble located the e-brake cables i need for my 85 with sn95 rear brakes. it seems that they may be discontinued? where is everyone else getting them?

  22. #322

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    You need the FRPP brake cables.

    --Vince
    + Jalapeņo Red 1985 Mustang GT, 347 in^3, Canfield heads, 650DP, X-Celerator, & 1-5/8" LT's
    + Tremec 3550, D&D shifter, 3.73:1 gears, & TrueTrac differential
    + EVM watts & 3-link, Homemade LCA's, & Koni SA's
    + '00 Cobra R Brembos in front and SN95 Cobra rear brakes, R58 rims, & 275/40R17 Falkens
    www.1985mustanggt.com

  23. #323

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    m-2809-a is discontinued from ford racing now... i heard that the center piece in the tunnel in the sn-95 that the cable attaches too is available from ford. does anyone no what the part number is? that way i can just use the sn95 cables

  24. #324

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    Quote Originally Posted by 5mustang8 View Post
    maybe i missed this some where but i'm having trouble located the e-brake cables i need for my 85 with sn95 rear brakes. it seems that they may be discontinued? where is everyone else getting them?
    You need two of these:

    http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...ar-Disc-Brakes

  25. #325

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    thank you just what i was looking for

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