help and info on s/c a s/d car.. supercharger guru's in here

[sprayed86gt]

I just bought a powerdyne s/c and am having trouble understanding a few things.

I read that you can s/c a speed density car, but cant find anything relating to tuning it and what not. I looked on powerdyne's website and they claim you must convert to MAF. I would like to run the basic 6psi for now until I get use to it, is there anything special I need to do to a s/c on s/d? I keep hearing of a one way check valve, what does it do and where does it go? what would the recomended timing be if I run 6psi and n/a I have it at 14*?

Also about a boost gauge, where does this go "to get the reading"? in the inlet pipe(to the t/b)?

the engine is fresh (stock 87up specs with valve relifes) with 40K or so
e7's 87&up intake, 65mm t/b, gears exhaust and a 255lph intank
pump(I use to spray it)

any and all info you feel I should read before bolting it up, please let me know.
Thanks alot

[sprayed86gt]

I just bought a powerdyne s/c and am having trouble understanding a few things.

I read that you can s/c a speed density car, but cant find anything relating to tuning it and what not. I looked on powerdyne's website and they claim you must convert to MAF. I would like to run the basic 6psi for now until I get use to it, is there anything special I need to do to a s/c on s/d? I keep hearing of a one way check valve, what does it do and where does it go? what would the recomended timing be if I run 6psi and n/a I have it at 14*?

Also about a boost gauge, where does this go "to get the reading"? in the inlet pipe(to the t/b)?

the engine is fresh (stock 87up specs with valve relifes) with 40K or so
e7's 87&up intake, 65mm t/b, gears exhaust and a 255lph intank
pump(I use to spray it)

any and all info you feel I should read before bolting it up, please let me know.
Thanks alot

[Capri50]

I have been tuning injected/blown MAF combo's for years now, and have helped a friend tune an old ball bearing paxton on his 86 many moons ago.

Here is my experience with it. Since the SD computer is RPM and MAP based, you are going to have full fuel enrichment once the MAP senses atmosphere (basically no vacuum). The MAP sensor cannot sensor 'boost' and putting pressure into it can potentially damage it. This is where the 1 way check valve comes in. You must put a 1 way check valve in the vacuum line going to the MAP sensor. (check the GN sites or DSM sites for quality 1 way check valves).

With that said, you are going to rely on an FMU to raise the pressure to the injectors to provide extra fuel under boost. I would consider upgrading the in-tank pump to at least a 110 or a 190 for future safety. As far as what FMU disk to run, it's going to take some experimenting. Maybe start with a 10:1 or 8:1 and see what happens.

some might recommend running low static timing for a low total advance, but I would much prefer an MSD BTM, and pull timing out per lb of boost. If the timing is at 10* base, it will be around ~26* total. If you put the BTM @ 1 degree per lb, you will end up with 20* total (6lbs of boost), way more than safe, but a good start just to feel out the combo.

For the boost gauge, you can tap into any of the vacuum lines coming out the back of the manifold.

One of the reasons you find so many people converting over to MAF is being able to eliminate the FMU and go with a 30-36 lb injector. FMU's can be a pain in the rear to get dead on, and are a bit dated compared to a properly calibrated MAF and injector combo. But, that's not to say it won't work with some patience and experimenting to find the speed spot of fuel delivery, and timing reduction.

If you have the ability to tune on a dyno, that would be your best bet to reduce the guessing. Simply bring a few disks for the FMU since they are easy to chage out and you can find you max power along with a safe A/F ratio.

let me know if you have any other questions.

btw, where did you buy your powerdyne from? I am thinking of adding one to my 86 this winter, and always looking for a good deal. I like the powerdynes for the street since they run much cooler than my oil-fed Vortech in my capri. They are great low PSI street blowers.

[Capri50]

I have been tuning injected/blown MAF combo's for years now, and have helped a friend tune an old ball bearing paxton on his 86 many moons ago.

Here is my experience with it. Since the SD computer is RPM and MAP based, you are going to have full fuel enrichment once the MAP senses atmosphere (basically no vacuum). The MAP sensor cannot sensor 'boost' and putting pressure into it can potentially damage it. This is where the 1 way check valve comes in. You must put a 1 way check valve in the vacuum line going to the MAP sensor. (check the GN sites or DSM sites for quality 1 way check valves).

With that said, you are going to rely on an FMU to raise the pressure to the injectors to provide extra fuel under boost. I would consider upgrading the in-tank pump to at least a 110 or a 190 for future safety. As far as what FMU disk to run, it's going to take some experimenting. Maybe start with a 10:1 or 8:1 and see what happens.

some might recommend running low static timing for a low total advance, but I would much prefer an MSD BTM, and pull timing out per lb of boost. If the timing is at 10* base, it will be around ~26* total. If you put the BTM @ 1 degree per lb, you will end up with 20* total (6lbs of boost), way more than safe, but a good start just to feel out the combo.

For the boost gauge, you can tap into any of the vacuum lines coming out the back of the manifold.

One of the reasons you find so many people converting over to MAF is being able to eliminate the FMU and go with a 30-36 lb injector. FMU's can be a pain in the rear to get dead on, and are a bit dated compared to a properly calibrated MAF and injector combo. But, that's not to say it won't work with some patience and experimenting to find the speed spot of fuel delivery, and timing reduction.

If you have the ability to tune on a dyno, that would be your best bet to reduce the guessing. Simply bring a few disks for the FMU since they are easy to chage out and you can find you max power along with a safe A/F ratio.

let me know if you have any other questions.

btw, where did you buy your powerdyne from? I am thinking of adding one to my 86 this winter, and always looking for a good deal. I like the powerdynes for the street since they run much cooler than my oil-fed Vortech in my capri. They are great low PSI street blowers.

[795.0pacecar]

Theres a guy on stangnet who has an 87 mustang that used to be speed density and supercharged. His car put down 350 rwhp and 375 rwtq on 10 lbs of boost with everything except for the fuel sustem being stock. I think his name on there is underpressure or something. You might want to ask him what he did to get his set up to run right.

[795.0pacecar]

Theres a guy on stangnet who has an 87 mustang that used to be speed density and supercharged. His car put down 350 rwhp and 375 rwtq on 10 lbs of boost with everything except for the fuel sustem being stock. I think his name on there is underpressure or something. You might want to ask him what he did to get his set up to run right.

[eric5oh]

Looks like your questions are answered. Here's my .02 I had the 6# kit on a stock 92 motor in my 86 Capri, converted to mass air. 311 RWHP on the dyno. Not too bad for stock.

[eric5oh]

Looks like your questions are answered. Here's my .02 I had the 6# kit on a stock 92 motor in my 86 Capri, converted to mass air. 311 RWHP on the dyno. Not too bad for stock.

[sprayed86gt]

I have been tuning injected/blown MAF combo's for years now, and have helped a friend tune an old ball bearing paxton on his 86 many moons ago.

Here is my experience with it. Since the SD computer is RPM and MAP based, you are going to have full fuel enrichment once the MAP senses atmosphere (basically no vacuum). The MAP sensor cannot sensor 'boost' and putting pressure into it can potentially damage it. This is where the 1 way check valve comes in. You must put a 1 way check valve in the vacuum line going to the MAP sensor. (check the GN sites or DSM sites for quality 1 way check valves).

With that said, you are going to rely on an FMU to raise the pressure to the injectors to provide extra fuel under boost. I would consider upgrading the in-tank pump to at least a 110 or a 190 for future safety. As far as what FMU disk to run, it's going to take some experimenting. Maybe start with a 10:1 or 8:1 and see what happens.

some might recommend running low static timing for a low total advance, but I would much prefer an MSD BTM, and pull timing out per lb of boost. If the timing is at 10* base, it will be around ~26* total. If you put the BTM @ 1 degree per lb, you will end up with 20* total (6lbs of boost), way more than safe, but a good start just to feel out the combo.

For the boost gauge, you can tap into any of the vacuum lines coming out the back of the manifold.

One of the reasons you find so many people converting over to MAF is being able to eliminate the FMU and go with a 30-36 lb injector. FMU's can be a pain in the rear to get dead on, and are a bit dated compared to a properly calibrated MAF and injector combo. But, that's not to say it won't work with some patience and experimenting to find the speed spot of fuel delivery, and timing reduction.

If you have the ability to tune on a dyno, that would be your best bet to reduce the guessing. Simply bring a few disks for the FMU since they are easy to chage out and you can find you max power along with a safe A/F ratio.

let me know if you have any other questions.

btw, where did you buy your powerdyne from? I am thinking of adding one to my 86 this winter, and always looking for a good deal. I like the powerdynes for the street since they run much cooler than my oil-fed Vortech in my capri. They are great low PSI street blowers.

WOW, now that is the kind of information I was looking for, thanks for taking the time to explain it to me .

as far as the fuel pump goes, I have a 255lph intank already as I use to run nitrous.

I will be running a FMU with the stock 19lb injectors, and plan to get a dyno tune when I have the money. I just want it to be safe for a little until I can get to a dyno.

I picked it up one that needs a rebuild and saved a few bucks.

[sprayed86gt]

I have been tuning injected/blown MAF combo's for years now, and have helped a friend tune an old ball bearing paxton on his 86 many moons ago.

Here is my experience with it. Since the SD computer is RPM and MAP based, you are going to have full fuel enrichment once the MAP senses atmosphere (basically no vacuum). The MAP sensor cannot sensor 'boost' and putting pressure into it can potentially damage it. This is where the 1 way check valve comes in. You must put a 1 way check valve in the vacuum line going to the MAP sensor. (check the GN sites or DSM sites for quality 1 way check valves).

With that said, you are going to rely on an FMU to raise the pressure to the injectors to provide extra fuel under boost. I would consider upgrading the in-tank pump to at least a 110 or a 190 for future safety. As far as what FMU disk to run, it's going to take some experimenting. Maybe start with a 10:1 or 8:1 and see what happens.

some might recommend running low static timing for a low total advance, but I would much prefer an MSD BTM, and pull timing out per lb of boost. If the timing is at 10* base, it will be around ~26* total. If you put the BTM @ 1 degree per lb, you will end up with 20* total (6lbs of boost), way more than safe, but a good start just to feel out the combo.

For the boost gauge, you can tap into any of the vacuum lines coming out the back of the manifold.

One of the reasons you find so many people converting over to MAF is being able to eliminate the FMU and go with a 30-36 lb injector. FMU's can be a pain in the rear to get dead on, and are a bit dated compared to a properly calibrated MAF and injector combo. But, that's not to say it won't work with some patience and experimenting to find the speed spot of fuel delivery, and timing reduction.

If you have the ability to tune on a dyno, that would be your best bet to reduce the guessing. Simply bring a few disks for the FMU since they are easy to chage out and you can find you max power along with a safe A/F ratio.

let me know if you have any other questions.

btw, where did you buy your powerdyne from? I am thinking of adding one to my 86 this winter, and always looking for a good deal. I like the powerdynes for the street since they run much cooler than my oil-fed Vortech in my capri. They are great low PSI street blowers.

WOW, now that is the kind of information I was looking for, thanks for taking the time to explain it to me .

as far as the fuel pump goes, I have a 255lph intank already as I use to run nitrous.

I will be running a FMU with the stock 19lb injectors, and plan to get a dyno tune when I have the money. I just want it to be safe for a little until I can get to a dyno.

I picked it up one that needs a rebuild and saved a few bucks.

[Capri50]

WOW, now that is the kind of information I was looking for, thanks for taking the time to explain it to me .

as far as the fuel pump goes, I have a 255lph intank already as I use to run nitrous.

I will be running a FMU with the stock 19lb injectors, and plan to get a dyno tune when I have the money. I just want it to be safe for a little until I can get to a dyno.

glad I could help. I converted my carb'd 84 over to SEFI MAF many years ago because I knew i was going with a Vortech and wanted to tune it with the computer. nowadays, advances with blow-thru carb's have come a long way.

sounds like you are on your way. I'd start out with a 10:1 or 8:1 disk to keep it safe (keep static FP @ 39 w/out vaccum), and if you go with a BTM, try to keep the total timing ~20-22 and you should have no problems with 6-7 psi. keep us posted how you make out.

[Capri50]

WOW, now that is the kind of information I was looking for, thanks for taking the time to explain it to me .

as far as the fuel pump goes, I have a 255lph intank already as I use to run nitrous.

I will be running a FMU with the stock 19lb injectors, and plan to get a dyno tune when I have the money. I just want it to be safe for a little until I can get to a dyno.

glad I could help. I converted my carb'd 84 over to SEFI MAF many years ago because I knew i was going with a Vortech and wanted to tune it with the computer. nowadays, advances with blow-thru carb's have come a long way.

sounds like you are on your way. I'd start out with a 10:1 or 8:1 disk to keep it safe (keep static FP @ 39 w/out vaccum), and if you go with a BTM, try to keep the total timing ~20-22 and you should have no problems with 6-7 psi. keep us posted how you make out.