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  1. #1
    DaveGt
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    Default 85 GT Power Windows

    The power windows on my 85 Gt are acting up and I'm not quite sure how to fix them. Problem was initially that the power window switch on the driver's side would only work when the door was closed, now its quit working completly. I know its not the window motor since the pass. side window switch and window continues to work. I've also eliminated the switches since I switched those out with a set that I knew to be good.

    I yanked off the door panel the other day to get a closer look. Which wires in the harness are the power wires, which is ground, etc? I'm guessing that somewhere in the wiring harness theres either a short to ground or possibly the door wires arn't getting power.

    How do I test this? I've got a meter, but I'm not sure how to go about finding the problem. I'm guessing that maybe there is a damaged wire somewhere in the rubber boot that connects the door to the body of the car, but I don't see how I can remove that without pulling the door as well. Any Ideas?

    Also, I pulled the driver's side kickpanel to have a look in there, and found that previously someone had installed an aftermarket alarm that was somewhat disconnected--does anyone have a stock wiring diagram for this so I can try to put the wiring harness back to the way its supposed to be?

    Thanks in Advance guys...

  2. #2

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    Wire colors for Power Windows:

    Pink - main power feed from fuse. Feeds to both switches on LH side & to single switch on RH side.
    Yellow/Black stripe(up) & Red/Black stripe(down) - from LH passenger window switch to RH passenger switch. The switch reverses polarity between these two wires to change the direction on the window.
    Yellow(up) & Red(down) - from LH switch to LH motor. Functions same as above.
    Black- ground. Behind LH door trim panel.

    Are you saying that the drivers passenger window switch is not operating the passengers window? Is that the only problem you're having with the windows?

    I don't have a complete wiring schematic that I would trust to be accurate for the wiring behind the kick panel. Sorry.
    1985 GT HB, AOD/CFI, Oxford White
    '91 H-Pipe
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  3. #3
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    with the door open look in between the front edge of the door and rear edge of front fender,see that big rubber boot thing that all the wires are in thats most likely where youll find a broken wire or two,check them all real close as there are probably more that are ready to break(happens a lot due to the wires not realy meant to be bent back and forth as the doors open & close)

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by papaford
    ... that big rubber boot thing that all the wires are in thats most likely where youll find a broken wire or two...
    Thats a definite possibility. A break between the drivers side pass. control switch & the passengers side control switch in the Y/BK or R/BK wires would explain why the passengers switch works & the drivers passenger switch doesn't. Before trying to get the wires out of the rubber tube, however, I would first check the connectors that contains the R/BK & Y/BK wires & as much of the wires themselves as I could easily get to. There are two connections that contain these wires. One each behind the drivers kick panel & the passengers kick panel. You can check for continuity in these wires with an ohmmeter. Pull the fuse first if you check continuity. Don't try this with a hot circuit.

    Let us know what you find out.
    1985 GT HB, AOD/CFI, Oxford White
    '91 H-Pipe
    Hooker Exhaust
    K&N
    KYB Struts & Shocks
    AOD Performance Upgrades
    CFI to Carbed 306 conversion in planing stage.

  5. #5
    DaveGt
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whtstang
    .

    Are you saying that the drivers passenger window switch is not operating the passengers window? Is that the only problem you're having with the windows?

    .
    Not quite, both of the driver's side switches (ds/ps) are not working, but the swtich on the pass side is working, so that allows me to rule out bad motor/etc. I also swapped the switches with some I knew that were good--no difference.

    Is there any way to remove the rubber boot thing between the door/fender without removing the door?

    Thanks for the advice guys......

    If I'm looking for the bad wire with my meter before I tear into the door, what should my test procedure be?

  6. #6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DaveGt
    Not quite, both of the driver's side switches (ds/ps) are not working, but the swtich on the pass side is working, so that allows me to rule out bad motor/etc. I also swapped the switches with some I knew that were good--no difference.

    Is there any way to remove the rubber boot thing between the door/fender without removing the door?

    If I'm looking for the bad wire with my meter before I tear into the door, what should my test procedure be?
    If just the LH switches are not working, I would focus my troubleshooting on the wiring behind the LH door trim panel. The first thing to check for would be to see if there is power to the switches. With a voltmeter or test light, ground the black lead(w/ voltmeter) or the clip(w/ test light) to a good body ground. Then backprobe the connector terminal at the pink wire with the other lead or end as close to each switch as you can. When the key is turned to ON or ACCY you should be getting a reading. If there is no power there then keep moving the probe back to the next junction untill you get a reading. You may have to go behind the LH kick panel. If there is an open it will be between the last check point that didn't have power & the first point where you did.

    If the problem turns out to be in the wiring inside the rubber conduit, I can't say for sure how you would go about accessing the wires. You could just run a new wire or you can try disconnecting the connectors & pull the harness through from one side or the other & repair the existing wiring, whichever is easier. Maybe someone here who has done it can fill in the blanks.
    1985 GT HB, AOD/CFI, Oxford White
    '91 H-Pipe
    Hooker Exhaust
    K&N
    KYB Struts & Shocks
    AOD Performance Upgrades
    CFI to Carbed 306 conversion in planing stage.

  7. #7

    Default

    OK...I replaced that rubber boot on my passenger side because it was sliced in one spot and I am anal.

    Remove your kick panel.
    Find the connector connecting the door's harness to the dash harness.
    Disconnect it.

    I only have power windows so you may have more than one connector if you have power locks.

    I then removed the wires from the connector...as the connector won't fit though the holes in the body. If you are careful, and pry gently on the innards of the connector, each wire will pull out easily. REMEMBER WHICH WIRE GOES IN WHICH HOLE!

    Then pull the wires through the body and pull the boot off.

    -Mike

  8. #8

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    Seems like a good thread to seek help

    Ugh. 1986 GT. Bear with me - I am not too experienced in the electrical department. Both windows went down and will not come up now. It happened at the exact same time. Neither of the two switches on the driver side or the one passenger side work. When I actuate the switches I can hear something in the motor (s) making noise in the doors.

    As noted above the wires do the following:

    Pink - main power feed from fuse. Feeds to both switches on LH side & to single switch on RH side.
    Yellow/Black stripe(up) & Red/Black stripe(down) - from LH passenger window switch to RH passenger switch. The switch reverses polarity between these two wires to change the direction on the window.
    Yellow(up) & Red(down) - from LH switch to LH motor. Functions same as above.
    Black- ground. Behind LH door trim panel.

    Here is what I have done:
    • Fuse is good
    • Cleaned all switches and female connectors. They all appear to be in good shape.
    • With my simple little light tester I confirmed the pink wire is getting power
    • Light tester confirmed all grounds working.
    • Tested connection to motor. One side (red) is positive in one direction and the other side (yellow) is positive in other direction.
    • Inspected wires in boot going from door to body
    • Tried to jump the driver side motor in both directions with connections to battery and frame. Nothing.

    I guess the driver motor is bad? I have not tested the passenger side yet. Is there a reason the passenger side motor would not work if the driver side is bad? Its odd to me that both would go out at the same time and in the down position.

  9. #9
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    They never fail in the up position. If you can hear it run then it’s likely the pins have crumbled. Pull the motor and remove the gear. The motors get weak and stall. Increasing the engine speed, increases the voltage and may help a weak motor.

    Either way, if you can get them to go up slightly, you may be able to help them go up under power by pulling up on the glass.
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  10. #10
    FEP Member Tigger's Avatar
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    Motor bushings are good place to start as suggested above. The drivers side on my 86 gets stuck in the down position. I already replaced the motor bushings Something is wrong with the regulator that it gets jammed. I have to take the door panel off and whack the regulator with a hammer and then it will go up. Not sure what the problem is with it yet but I have read other threads that people have the same issue.
    67 Mustang Coupe
    96 Tangerine GT
    86 Saleen #179

  11. #11

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    So I went and moved the car so I can get to the passenger side a little better and now the driverís side works like a champ. Passenger side still down. Tigger. The car in question is Saleen 1986-045.
    Last edited by Curt C; 03-21-2018 at 10:10 PM.

  12. #12
    FEP Member Tigger's Avatar
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    I would take off the door panel off. Unhook the motor from the main door harness and take a battery from your electric screw driver. With some wire and alligator clips connect the battery to the motor and see if the window goes up. . Reversing the polarity of the wires changes the direction of the glass. Basically doing the same thing you did on the other side. If it works then you most likely have a wiring problem. If it does not work but you hear the motor try to move, take a hammer and tap on the regulator and see if it is like mine. If it still does not work then take the motor out and see if the bushings are chewed up. Hope this helps some.
    Last edited by Tigger; 03-22-2018 at 02:04 AM.
    67 Mustang Coupe
    96 Tangerine GT
    86 Saleen #179

  13. #13

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    They were simply Jambed. I whacked that flywheel looking piece and now the passenger side works too. I wonder what caused both to jamb at the same time. I was using the windows quite a bit when they became stuck. I was on the road course and using the AC with the windows up while driving around in the pits.

  14. #14
    FEP Member Tigger's Avatar
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    That is the same thing that is happening to my drivers side window. I have oiled the crap out of it and I have zip tied some old heater hose to the bottom of the rubber stop to keep the window up a tad higher when it is all the way down but it still jams up. The door panel cannot take many more removals without me having to replace the backing. I just try to remember not to roll the window all the way down. I have some spare regulators somewhere. I will have to find them and see if I can figure this problem out. Summer is coming and my AC does not work right now.
    67 Mustang Coupe
    96 Tangerine GT
    86 Saleen #179

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