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  1. #26
    FEP Super Member 85 Notchback's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kornnut
    First Coat: Light wet, Second Coat: Medium Wet, Third Coat: Heavy Wet, Fourth Coat: Double Coat
    Can you explain those coats ant the techniques with each a little better?
    When spraying the car, you usually apply 3 - 4 coats.

    First - Light Wet - When spraying the first coat, the paint, or primer has nothing or very little to stick/soak into, hence the "light" part. Usually it is sprayed so that it is almost "see through", this is done, so that the following coats have something to stick to. When spraying any layer, you should always try to achieve a "wet" look, hence the second part. "Light" "Wet".

    Second - Medium Wet - when spraying the second coat, the paint or primer still does not have much to soak into (since the first coat was so light), but, because the paint does soak into the previous layer, it means, that you can lay it on a bit thicker without creating runs. That is why you spray on a medium saturation coat. The second coat is not meant to be heavy, but, it is meant to cover most, if not all, spots where you can see through the first layer of paint. As always, the finish should have a "wet" look. Hence "Medium Wet"

    Third - Heavy Wet - Now that there is lots of paint for this layer to soak into, you can lay the paint on thicker (heavier) than the last two. The third coat is meant to be the finishing layer, and laying it on nice and heavy will achieve this. Again, it should appear "wet" when finished. Hence "Heavy Wet"

    Fourth - Double Coat - A doule coat is usually used to give that extra "Umph" (if you wanna call it that), or for those who talk proper, more "gloss, or shine". This is done by (essentially) spraying the equivilent of two "medium" coats as one, which will give the finish a deeper, glossier look. Again, this should appear "WET" (Glossy) as it is the finishing layer. Hence "Double Coat"

    I guess I should change "Coat" to "Layer" haha!!

    Hope this explains the process better!! If so, I'll add the explaination to the write-up.

    Calon
    Calon

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  3. #28
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    how would the paint look if you dident want to wet sand the car after spraying clear?

  4. #29
    FEP Super Member 85 Notchback's Avatar
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    It would still look shiny as hell (look at my coupe). It's just a trick of the trade, to spray "2 and 2". It's pretty much for show cars ect.. Just spraying the clear on all at once, works great to Click my signiture link, take a look at my coupe, I sprayed the clear all at once

    Calon
    Calon

    1985 LX Notchback (Project)
    1995 Mustang GT (In For Color Change)

  5. #30
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    looks good. can u answer a few questions for me if this dosent seem right. i never painted base/clear before. now my car right now is ready for paint, so what do i have to do.
    1. spray 2 -3 coats of basecoat
    2. let it dry for about and hour, then
    3. spray 3-4 coats of clear, then im all done?
    letting each coat of clear dry 20 minuts before spraying another coat of clear?

  6. #31
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    i was reading on another site, house of colour i think, and it said this. never apply more than 3 coats of urathane clear at one time, without letting it cure color sanding or reclearing. excessive coats of urathane clear applied wet on wet will result in splitting, die back, softfilm and delimitation. does this mean 3 coats of clear one coat right after the other, not letting each coat of clear dry at all? if i wanted to shoot 5 coats of clear i can right? i just have to let each coat of clear dry for about 20 minuts before i put on another. does this seem right? thanks

  7. #32
    FEP Super Member 85 Notchback's Avatar
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    Well the 20 minutes to "dry" is called "flash", and when spraying anything you should always let it have around 15 - 20 minutes flash time in between layers... I sprayed 4 layers on my coupe and had no problems.

    The only thing I can say is that, to many layers (cumulatively) can cause the finishing layer to crack, and/or chip away.

    I would say feel free to lay as many layers of clear on as desired, just make sure you dont make the over all finish too thick (includes primer, paint and clear ect..). 5 layers of clear is a bit much though, it will be all shine, no color.

    Calon
    Calon

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    1995 Mustang GT (In For Color Change)

  8. #33
    FEP Super Member 85 Notchback's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hotpony
    looks good. can u answer a few questions for me if this dosent seem right. i never painted base/clear before. now my car right now is ready for paint, so what do i have to do.
    1. spray 2 -3 coats of basecoat
    2. let it dry for about and hour, then
    3. spray 3-4 coats of clear, then im all done?
    letting each coat of clear dry 20 minuts before spraying another coat of clear?
    Read the how-to

    Basecoat/Clear coat: When applying your basecoat, in a Base/clear application, you must remember, it's not like spraying enamel paint. The basecoat is a DYE and will have the same look no matter how you spray it on. Light-wet, and medium-wet coats are all you have to spray, when spraying basecoat, simply, to avoid, unwanted runs, orange peel, and other such imperfections. Now as you can with the sealer, if you have fisheye, or runs, ect. After spray your first light coat of base on, you can usually let it flash for the 20 minutes, than scotch brite out the mistakes, and carry on painting. When spraying base, you spray 3 - 4 coats, and have 15 - 20 minute flash time in between coats.

    Spraying Clear coat: There are two ways of doing this. First method: Wait 25 - 35 minutes after spraying base. Then lay on the clear as follows. First Coat: Light wet, Second Coat: Medium Wet, Third Coat: Heavy Wet, Fourth Coat: Double Coat. 20 minute flash time in between coats.
    And for the explaination on Spraying each layer..

    When spraying the car, you usually apply 3 - 4 coats.

    First - Light Wet - When spraying the first coat, the paint, or primer has nothing or very little to stick/soak into, hence the "light" part. Usually it is sprayed so that it is almost "see through", this is done, so that the following coats have something to stick to. When spraying any layer, you should always try to achieve a "wet" look, hence the second part. "Light" "Wet".

    Second - Medium Wet - when spraying the second coat, the paint or primer still does not have much to soak into (since the first coat was so light), but, because the paint does soak into the previous layer, it means, that you can lay it on a bit thicker without creating runs. That is why you spray on a medium saturation coat. The second coat is not meant to be heavy, but, it is meant to cover most, if not all, spots where you can see through the first layer of paint. As always, the finish should have a "wet" look. Hence "Medium Wet"

    Third - Heavy Wet - Now that there is lots of paint for this layer to soak into, you can lay the paint on thicker (heavier) than the last two. The third coat is meant to be the finishing layer, and laying it on nice and heavy will achieve this. Again, it should appear "wet" when finished. Hence "Heavy Wet"

    Fourth - Double Coat - A doule coat is usually used to give that extra "Umph" (if you wanna call it that), or for those who talk proper, more "gloss, or shine". This is done by (essentially) spraying the equivilent of two "medium" coats as one, which will give the finish a deeper, glossier look. Again, this should appear "WET" (Glossy) as it is the finishing layer. Hence "Double Coat"
    Thos apply to Clearcoating also

    I say spray 3 - 4 coats (which makes the double coat optional) becasue some people don't like the crazy deep gloss as much.

    Calon
    Calon

    1985 LX Notchback (Project)
    1995 Mustang GT (In For Color Change)

  9. #34
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    cool, thanks. is it nessacery to paint the whole car in sealer before applying the base coat? before i sanded my car i had put on acrylic enamel, last year i sanded the car and put tremclad black gloss paint on the car, i only did this because i dident drive the car that year and dident want to put an expensive paint job on it while it was sitt n cause i knew it would just bubble in spots and id have to redo the car this summer. so now i have sanded the tremclad paint just enough to scratch the paint. would it be all right to put the base coat right over the tremclad, or should i cover the car in sealer first. thanks

  10. #35
    FEP Super Member 85 Notchback's Avatar
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    you done absolutly have to, but i would highly recommend it if you are going to spend the cash for B/C paint.. just gives you a smoother finish
    Calon

    1985 LX Notchback (Project)
    1995 Mustang GT (In For Color Change)

  11. #36
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    if you just buy acrylic enamel paint can you mix in a quart or 2 of clearcoat right into the acrylic enamel paint? if not do u know if a catalyst in the arcylic paint will be all right, the catylst suppose to give the acrylic paint a wet look, and a deep shine. thanks agian

  12. #37
    FEP Super Member 85 Notchback's Avatar
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    Ive never heard of mixing in clear to the paint, I think that would be a Bad idea...

    When mixing Acrylic Enamel, you usually use a catalyst.. The thing that will give you the shine is the "double coat" that you spray.

    I find with Enamels though, that after a few washes, you will notice the shine to fade a little... The good thing, of course, is that if you ever find that the paints fades beyond your liking, you can always sand it and spray a few layers of clear on it

    Calon
    Calon

    1985 LX Notchback (Project)
    1995 Mustang GT (In For Color Change)

  13. #38
    FEP Senior Member jpywell's Avatar
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    You going to just give tips on how to paint?? How about even the best painters have runs or bubbles in them... the tips of the guns are not flawless. And what if you clear primer eh?? What then... can I just paint over the clearn and re-clear it?? Oh! What if I get overspray on the windows and or how long should I wait too let the paint cure? How long till I can handle the parts?? What if I get a finger print or two in there??

    lol, everyone can paint... but these are questions everyone should be asking on how to finish the car... in my opinion, the prepping is 1st important, detailing is 2nd and painting is 3rd. Painting overall sure can take a bit of skill... but if you can prep and detail, you can make just about any bad (just about... Im not saying all here) look good.
    The economic times suck... GREAT TIME FOR BUYING FOXES!!!

    86 T-TOP RS, 32,000 Miles, near mint ONLY 320.00USD...

  14. #39
    FEP Super Member 85 Notchback's Avatar
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    Did you have a bad day Justin? :P

    All the possible errors are endless.. That prep and paint write-up was just an overview of the process... Now, I guess, I could add on to it, with things like.

    Gun Cleaning, Runs (severity) and fixing them, water in air lines, proper tips to use, ect..

    I just wrote this as something to do, and to hopefully help people... If I wanted to write a book on the subject, I would do so . I figured this covered the basics, and if people had any other questions, they would ask.

    Of course, there will be nights where I get bored again, and may end up doubling the size of the write-up with additional info

    Calon
    Calon

    1985 LX Notchback (Project)
    1995 Mustang GT (In For Color Change)

  15. #40
    FEP Senior Member jpywell's Avatar
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    lol, got to love text, no I was not saying what you were doing was bad . I was just pointing out that even though the paint process if important, its not everything that they need to know in order to get a final good finish.

    Which reminds me... since I am going to be fixing my car door this upcoming weekend I should have a great amount of pictures for everyone to go along with your write up
    The economic times suck... GREAT TIME FOR BUYING FOXES!!!

    86 T-TOP RS, 32,000 Miles, near mint ONLY 320.00USD...

  16. #41
    FEP Super Member 85 Notchback's Avatar
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    Oh yeah, I forgot you needed me to come show you how to do bodywork

    If you need a hand with anything, Im in Sylvan and can make a drive.
    Calon

    1985 LX Notchback (Project)
    1995 Mustang GT (In For Color Change)

  17. #42
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    hey whats up. i decided just to go with acrylic enamel paint. what do people usually mix this stuff at, would it be something like 1 gallon of paint to 1 litre of reducer, or something else. thanks, oh and how much hardner.

  18. #43
    FEP Super Member 85 Notchback's Avatar
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    Depends on the brand, mixing instructions are usually located on the cans
    Calon

    1985 LX Notchback (Project)
    1995 Mustang GT (In For Color Change)

  19. #44
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    i bought a gallon of valu pro paint fron mobile equipment, and it dosent say. i got a metal stir stick from them and it shows the mixing table but not very understandable. think it says this acrylic enamel 4.1, so does this mean 1 gallon of paint to 1 litre or reducer? also is it all right to wash a car down with gasoline before painting it. or should i get a canof grease and wax remover. thanks

  20. #45
    FEP Super Member 85 Notchback's Avatar
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    Don't wash it with gas, that's a no-no. Use wax and grease remover.

    I'm not to sure about the paint mixing, just ask the guy at the counter what the ratio is, like I said, everythings different.

    Calon
    Calon

    1985 LX Notchback (Project)
    1995 Mustang GT (In For Color Change)

  21. #46
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    have another question. painted my car today, all looks real good but the fender has a huge run in it so i will have to redo the fender over. how long do i have to wait for the paint to dry before i can sand down the fender? the paint i used is acrylic enamel paint, medium reducer, and a half a cup of hardner. thanks man

  22. #47
    FEP Super Member 85 Notchback's Avatar
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    Just wait a day and it should be good. Be sure to take pictures for all of us.
    Calon

    1985 LX Notchback (Project)
    1995 Mustang GT (In For Color Change)

  23. #48
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    hey, thanks alot 85 notchback, for all the info you gave me, and the quick responses. i,ll post pics in a a little while, gotta get those runs out and repaint the passenger side fender, hopefully tomorrow. is it best to just sand the runs out or sand the whole fender back down to the bare metal. and what grit of sand paper should i use. thanks agian.

  24. #49
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    yesterday i painted the whole car, and now today 24 hours later, i sanded down the whole car agian. was this all right to do? right now i think i might of made things worse. the paint was pretty dry though, so it might be all right. it just that when i sanded the car with sand paper you would get like litttle soft peices of paint, not a whole lot though. and if thats o.k will it be all right to repaint the car tomorrow?

  25. #50
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    Paint being soft is ok. Just make sure everythings smooth for when you paint it again...
    Calon

    1985 LX Notchback (Project)
    1995 Mustang GT (In For Color Change)

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