I went to the local Ford dealer and ordered one. I recieved the same part and box as Capriman86. Ford of Mexico. I think it cost $63.00
I went to the local Ford dealer and ordered one. I recieved the same part and box as Capriman86. Ford of Mexico. I think it cost $63.00
You guys were absolutely right
Jeremy
-86 mustang SSP X CHP Unit # 3788-bone stock & staying that way
-66 Mustang, bench seat car,8.8,t5 fuel injected 92 engine
-72 Maverick 5.0 resto in process
-12SS Camaro 6 speed. 600 FWHP, Kraftwerks Supercharger
-03 z71 Avalanche 9" lift on 35s Daily Driven 20k a year. 290k miles at 11.8 mpg
Entire 1986 electrical and vacuum troubleshooting manual download
http://slantnosefox.com/picturehosti...g%20manual.zip
Is that unit all brass? The brass ones are supposed to last longer.
BTW: Couple questions.. having never done one in a Mustang before, what's with the RTV? Second, I'm assuming the "DON'T TUG ON THE OUTLETS" part has to do with risking breaking the seal of the RTV, if not then why? Usually when I'm told not to do something without being given a reason, I'll do it to see what happens.
2nd BTW: Not sure if the 79-86 heater box is the same as 87-93 (but obviously the dash is) but a buddy of mine at work did his heater core in his 91 LX today (Wild Strawberry, black interior.. sweet car), and didn't have to remove the dash. Just the glovebox, and removed a couple bolts along the top of the dash to give a little wiggle room.
Marc aka tripice351. 84.5 GT-350 2.3T.. and now, 1982 GL coupe.
non factory ac cars don't need to have the dash pulled, it can be replaced through the glovebox.
As for the rtv, it's been a while, and I forgot the exact reason, but I think the RTV helps seal the core against the box, and I know it's an essential step.
when I said don't tug on the outlets, I'm referring to the two at the back I believe..the reason why I said that because I was pulling on the old ones to get the heater hose off it, and the entire outlet tore off of the heater core, so I'd hate to see you rip one of those tubes off of a brand new core
Jeremy
-86 mustang SSP X CHP Unit # 3788-bone stock & staying that way
-66 Mustang, bench seat car,8.8,t5 fuel injected 92 engine
-72 Maverick 5.0 resto in process
-12SS Camaro 6 speed. 600 FWHP, Kraftwerks Supercharger
-03 z71 Avalanche 9" lift on 35s Daily Driven 20k a year. 290k miles at 11.8 mpg
Entire 1986 electrical and vacuum troubleshooting manual download
http://slantnosefox.com/picturehosti...g%20manual.zip
awesome article..
I'd use it.... but...
i had the heater,core, etc.. tossed in the trash and the firewall hole welded up
83 GT w/ T-Tops (JeffCleaned)
2021 Turbo Blue Audi S5
Jeremy: Right, non A/C cars are easy, I shoulda clarified.. the 91 LX has A/C.
Marc aka tripice351. 84.5 GT-350 2.3T.. and now, 1982 GL coupe.
this is strange, VERY strange, as we changed out the heater core in my bro's old 88 notch, and same story, drop the dash, and from all the corral readings, that never changed....wonder if he had a non ac box in there somehow..
i'm pretty stoked about my 82, heatercore is bad, and it's a non ac car
Jeremy
-86 mustang SSP X CHP Unit # 3788-bone stock & staying that way
-66 Mustang, bench seat car,8.8,t5 fuel injected 92 engine
-72 Maverick 5.0 resto in process
-12SS Camaro 6 speed. 600 FWHP, Kraftwerks Supercharger
-03 z71 Avalanche 9" lift on 35s Daily Driven 20k a year. 290k miles at 11.8 mpg
Entire 1986 electrical and vacuum troubleshooting manual download
http://slantnosefox.com/picturehosti...g%20manual.zip
Good beginnings of a thorough heater core removal & install! Now, about what time do you feel like you will be replacing mine?...
'89 5.0 5-speed 'vert, seeing rust for the 1st time in it's life as well as 4,500+ elevation....
Yeah.. keep in mind, he's a dealer trim tech and had a grayhair trim tech showing him how to do it, so I'm sure there's some trick to it. He did have to suck down the A/C and disconnect the lines, and prolly had to disassemble part of the blower box.. I'll ask him tommorow just what it was he did.
Marc aka tripice351. 84.5 GT-350 2.3T.. and now, 1982 GL coupe.
the RTV is to hold the core in the box , to keep it from rattling .
Jeremy , very good write up .
I would just add this , dash does not have to come out , just roll it down with steering column dropped into the seat .
vacumn out the heater box , and lubricate the control cable while you are there , and if you have one of those early cars with the shaft radio , now is a good time to change it out .
clowns to the left of me , Jokers to the right
I don't know about other year cars, but with my 83 it's as easy as pulling the glove box and reaching in and removing two screws. too bad ford didn't do this with all years of the mustang.
that's with mustangs that didn't have factory ac
Jeremy
-86 mustang SSP X CHP Unit # 3788-bone stock & staying that way
-66 Mustang, bench seat car,8.8,t5 fuel injected 92 engine
-72 Maverick 5.0 resto in process
-12SS Camaro 6 speed. 600 FWHP, Kraftwerks Supercharger
-03 z71 Avalanche 9" lift on 35s Daily Driven 20k a year. 290k miles at 11.8 mpg
Entire 1986 electrical and vacuum troubleshooting manual download
http://slantnosefox.com/picturehosti...g%20manual.zip
Very good write up. Obviously originally published before I was a member here.
You didnt specifically write about or show any coolant draining. Dont you have to (or should) partially drain the system to get at least some of the coolant out so you only loose a little when you pull of the hoses and pull out the core? Or perhaps there is no need?
T
Jeremy,
In the fourth picture your left index fingure is on a bolt. Where does the bottom of the (rust color) bar connect? Mine is not connected and I can't figure out where it's supposed to connect. Thanks.
David
1984 SVO 2A - Sold
1993 Cobra Teal
2009 Shelby GT500 KR
I seem to recall that bar connects to the bottom part of the dash shell. You may have to keep the top bolt a little loose until the bottom of the bar matches a hole in the dash shell.
Hope I'm right...
Dean T
Proud owner of the one and only Friggin' Futura
ok, left index finger, bracket extends to bottom of dash shell, towards the front...there should be a clip there, and a bolt goes through it.
Jeremy
-86 mustang SSP X CHP Unit # 3788-bone stock & staying that way
-66 Mustang, bench seat car,8.8,t5 fuel injected 92 engine
-72 Maverick 5.0 resto in process
-12SS Camaro 6 speed. 600 FWHP, Kraftwerks Supercharger
-03 z71 Avalanche 9" lift on 35s Daily Driven 20k a year. 290k miles at 11.8 mpg
Entire 1986 electrical and vacuum troubleshooting manual download
http://slantnosefox.com/picturehosti...g%20manual.zip
Are you referring to the clip under the glove compartment?
1984 SVO 2A - Sold
1993 Cobra Teal
2009 Shelby GT500 KR
This thread definitely should be a sticky.
WARNINGOriginally Posted by Evil86lx
Horsepower is addictive
10-hole mafia and wannabe post whore
Last edited by yodaddyz82gt; 04-02-2008 at 10:46 AM.
82GTflossin
Rebuilt 302,rebuilt 8.8 w 373s,JBAs, true dual exhaust flowmasters,T5 w/Hurst Short Shifter and a few more xtras..
future upgrades: front/rear coilovers,15:1 rack,4bbl, rebuilding 89 susp with new bushings,85 carb/intake conv,jet glossy black new paint with custom graphics..
Jeremy
-86 mustang SSP X CHP Unit # 3788-bone stock & staying that way
-66 Mustang, bench seat car,8.8,t5 fuel injected 92 engine
-72 Maverick 5.0 resto in process
-12SS Camaro 6 speed. 600 FWHP, Kraftwerks Supercharger
-03 z71 Avalanche 9" lift on 35s Daily Driven 20k a year. 290k miles at 11.8 mpg
Entire 1986 electrical and vacuum troubleshooting manual download
http://slantnosefox.com/picturehosti...g%20manual.zip
I finally got around to installing mine. I dug out the new heater core I had bought from the dealer (E9LH-). The receipt was still in the box from when I bought it...six years ago! I had the heater core bypassed for over six years...Shame on me!
This is my third heater core install. It is not that bad if you have done it before or have pictures to go by. (nice write up Jeremy)
I used dum-dum (plumbers putty) to seal the box up instead of silicone though. Also, make sure to reinstall all the bolts and screws you took out.
The first one I did was back in 1985 on a 1981 Thunderbird. It took forever to change even with a Ford shop manual. The Philips screws at the base of the windshield were hammered in so tight, it was unreal. I think I had to grind the heads off or chisel a couple of them off. I am glad to see that the later ones have hex-headed screws.
I can't see any of the photos - just the little red "x". And right-click "show photo" doesn't work either. Is there some setting I need to change?
86 SVO 2R (Jalapeno Red) - E85 Corner Carver
Old post. Pictures are probably gone and the links don't point to them.
Frank
'82 Mustang GT
'55 chevy belair 4dr sedan
sorry guys...killed the site that was hosting the pictures. I'll fix this, but give me a couple of weeks
Jeremy
-86 mustang SSP X CHP Unit # 3788-bone stock & staying that way
-66 Mustang, bench seat car,8.8,t5 fuel injected 92 engine
-72 Maverick 5.0 resto in process
-12SS Camaro 6 speed. 600 FWHP, Kraftwerks Supercharger
-03 z71 Avalanche 9" lift on 35s Daily Driven 20k a year. 290k miles at 11.8 mpg
Entire 1986 electrical and vacuum troubleshooting manual download
http://slantnosefox.com/picturehosti...g%20manual.zip
Jeremy if you want to email me the pics I can host them here on FEP if you like bud, then you don't have to worry about them.
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