So...any tips for installing a new clutch quadrant on my 86???

[Ruskiegunlover]

So today I had a small noise, and the clutch pedal went to the floor. Pulled driver seat, and the quadrant had broken. Was an aluminum one. Pulled the pin, and pulled it off.

I have not disconnected the cable at the tranny, and was hoping not too. Am I correct in thinking I can pull the pedal up, away from floor, and reinstall? I am a bit worried how hard this will be....

[ITdude87]

If the clutch cable is still connected to the transmission, I think it should be a pretty easy install. I wouldn't worry too much about it. I haven't done this myself, but I've seen enough videos and have looked under there a few times to get the lay of the land.

Might be a good time to get a new adjustable cable and quadrant combo?

[richpet]

You can probably do it that way.
It's just a tight contortionist for getting the parts up on the shaft. Done it a few times, not too bad.

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[Ruskiegunlover]

So..


Pull pedal out, where it normally would be. Attach quadrant, then pin, then reattach the cable in the hook?

[Ruskiegunlover]

I just finished the interior, so not wanting to start pulling it apart you know? Ordered one, it will be here in four days...ANy idea how soon I can post pics here?

[richpet]

It comes with instructions and is pretty easy to replace. It's just snug quarters.
Driver seat out or just moved all the way back. You'll probably be on your back over the door sill. Ish.

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[gr79]

A long wide piece of plywood or osb on top of door sill, extended with solid level support outside under the platform, works.
Add an exercise pad or similar. Make it like a bed to lay on.
Taking the seat out adds to the job too, but the ergo advantage can outweigh the extra prep work.
Under dash work is backbreaking, tight, dark, and like working under the car or worse.
A fan blowing inside is nice too.
Seat removal makes room for tools to minimize having to go in and out of car.

[gmatt]

You already have a firewall adjuster? They're nice to have since the aluminum quadrants don't adjust the way the factory one does.

[Bentley]

A long wide piece of plywood or osb on top of door sill, extended with solid level support outside under the platform, works.
Add an exercise pad or similar. Make it like a bed to lay on.
Taking the seat out adds to the job too, but the ergo advantage can outweigh the extra prep work.
Under dash work is backbreaking, tight, dark, and like working under the car or worse.
A fan blowing inside is nice too.
Seat removal makes room for tools to minimize having to go in and out of car.

A five minute job to remove the drivers seat makes the job ALOT easier...
You will probably want to remove the cable from the clutch fork... This was the last step on my car when I installed a MM cable... I could not get my cable on the new quadrant without removing it from the clutch fork...
All it takes is a pry bar to move the fork forward, then slip the cable on or off... It will also make the job under the dash alot easier too...

[Ruskiegunlover]

No, I don't have an adjuster on the firewall...
Not yet. Just trying to get the quadrant replaced.

Hmm...in a few min I am going to jack her up, get under it, and see if I can get it off the fork....wish me luck!

Thanks guys.

[Ruskiegunlover]

New piece came in. I will be damned if I can get it on....disconnected the cable at the bell housing. Driver's seat is out. The new quadrant simply will not go over both pins at the same time. One at a time yes...

Any advice?

[ZephyrEFI]

Did you get a Maximum Motorsports quadrant? They are a TON easier to install.

Otherwise, if you take the pedal box out of the car, you can get right at where the quadrant goes. I recommend the MM quadrant though.

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[Ruskiegunlover]

So I got it in that day, appreciate it though. Had a week of hellish hot weather, so didn't get to drive it much. Also replaced the BAP sensor in it, as it stumbled sometimes....well, just did it again. Wondering what's up with that now. Stumbled, hitches a bit about 2000 rpm on acceleration.

[KevinVarnes]

Check the voltage sweep of your TPS (throttle position sensor). An analog voltmeter works best for finding bad spots in the sensor.