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  1. #1
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Default temp gauge not functioning

    I had posted another thread about my rear brake headache and the proportion valve rebuild, when I realized my temp gauge stopped functioning.

    A few weeks ago I had the cluster off to re wire my Volt gauge and I just realized my speedo cable popped off for the second time. Not sure why it wont stay connected, but I'm thinking I might have disturbed the temp gauge wiring. I considered to possibility my mechanic disturbed a wire when installing the proportion valve, but there's a single strand with a boot on the sensor in the engine front and its still connected so it must be on the other end where the failure is.

    Does anyone have a diagram showing the location for the temp gauge wiring on the cluster so I know what to check? I have to pull the cluster out anyway to reseat my speedo cable. Suggestions for troubleshooting this?

  2. #2

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    I'd purchase a wiring diagram for your car, often found on ebay for not too much money.
    79 Zephyr, 4.6L 4v/4r70w swap, with team z front and rear suspension, 8.8 and upgraded brakes and coil overs. Running Holley Terminator X Max.

  3. #3

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    Not sure what year your car is, but get one of these Vacuum and Electrical troubleshooting guides for the correct year of car you have...
    All over on ebay... Handiest Service manual there is , In My Opinion...
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/37468732297...3ABFBMtt-9xrxi

  4. #4

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    fgross2006 - What year? I've got a copy of the 1986 electrical/vacuum manual if that's what you have. It's a thick book, but I'll take a peek and see if there's any diagrams I can post that may help you out.
    1986 Mustang GT - 2A, 5 Sp
    2018 Subaru WRX (Daily)

  5. #5
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ITdude87 View Post
    fgross2006 - What year? I've got a copy of the 1986 electrical/vacuum manual if that's what you have. It's a thick book, but I'll take a peek and see if there's any diagrams I can post that may help you out.
    I have an 84 LX

  6. #6

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    Gotcha. I'll take a peek anyways, it may be similar enough to give you some ideas.
    1986 Mustang GT - 2A, 5 Sp
    2018 Subaru WRX (Daily)

  7. #7

  8. #8

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    Boom. There ya go.
    1986 Mustang GT - 2A, 5 Sp
    2018 Subaru WRX (Daily)

  9. #9
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    qikgts's Avatar
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    Default

    Y'all gotta tighten up yuh Google-Fu!
    '85 GT

  10. #10
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by qikgts View Post
    Y'all gotta tighten up yuh Google-Fu!
    Thanks so much, that's a great find. I downloaded it.

    Fortunately I was premature in my belief that my temp gauge was not functioning. I just had to drive a little longer to get the gauge moving.

    The cooling system runs so efficiently in my 84 that it takes a few miles to get the gauge moving. In my Suburban, I drive a block and my temp gauge moves.

    Funny thing is I have experienced the cooling system being extremely efficient on the hottest days except when stuck in stop and go traffic. I've come close to overheating a few times under those conditions. I have an LMR oversize radiator, a 185 degree thermostat and a new clutch fan. The car runs cool unless I get stuck in bad traffic or let it idle too long.

    Anyway, anybody have a suggestion for getting the speedo cable to stay locked onto the cluster? I still have to pull the cluster for that.

  11. #11

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    Did you push it on far enough? That is the worst mechanism I have ever seen.

    I have had many a thermostat be crap out of the box. Last time I had your kind of overheat issue the thermostat wasn't opening enough. My current duralast 195 has been going strong for 3 years. Sits right between the n and the o. On super exertion and hot oil (racing) it will nudge deep into the o but come back really quick. Stock radiator. Questionable fan clutch. It's newish but I really don't think it works correctly.
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  12. #12

    Default

    Come to think of it, if you are having slow warm up and overheating in traffic I bet yours failed and it is stuck a little open all the time.
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

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