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  1. #51
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Well here I go again. I'm just a glutton for punishment. After corresponding with the kit seller he offered to sell me a new brass piston with the brass sleeve, all the o rings for that side of the valve and a retainer cap to put on the end of the spring.

    I'm gonna take another shot at this since only one side has to be corrected. And since the brake line have just been removed and that i treated the threads with a dash of never seize, they will come out easy so I can do this myself. I'll get my son to help me re bleed them when I put it back in. This has to be correctable.

    My only question is should I get a new brake fluid sensor from NPD just to have a new one? Just in case mine does have damage from being heated with a torch. Also, is this even gonna work in an 84? Its identical to mine except mine is red. But the listing says its for 67-69 Stangs.

    https://www.npdlink.com/product/warn...%3D0%26year%3D
    Last edited by fgross2006; 08-13-2023 at 07:03 PM.

  2. #52
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    qikgts's Avatar
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    Might be worth asking Musclecar Research if they have the switches too or at least can tell you what will work in there. I don't think yours is bad though. Just do a continuity test.
    '85 GT

  3. #53
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by qikgts View Post
    Might be worth asking Musclecar Research if they have the switches too or at least can tell you what will work in there. I don't think yours is bad though. Just do a continuity test.
    a continuity test will tell me if its still a good sensor, but I'm concerned with why it allowed brake fluid to pass through the top.

  4. #54

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    A bad o-ring would allow brake fluid to make it's way to that center section, wouldn't it?
    1985 Mustang GT (Mothballed...Desired restomod parts acquired...Top of my project list for my 2024 retirement!)

  5. #55
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    I don't think the switch is meant to be sealed. Remember, it's installed into a what should be a dry port.
    '85 GT

  6. #56
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    after getting the same issue of leaking through the sensor after yet another rebuild, I was considering getting an aftermarket proportion valve from Amazon or NPD.

    Then I saw this guys link to a short youtube vid that shows the brand new ones have the same tendency to leak through the port the sensor goes to. I hate to waste all the time to pull and replace again and still have the same issue.


  7. #57

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    I am going through what you did right now... All of my lines came off and the only real problem I am having is getting the same piston out that you had a hard time with...
    Waiting now for some fittings to cap off ports to try and use air pressure to push it out if that doesn't work I found the adapter at Speedway to screw in and attach a grease gun to..
    Someone said pipe threads here and these are NOT NPT threads, they are UTS threads.... Making this more of a pain..
    My valve caught me off guard as I thought it was in good shape, but it was plugged with dried hard brake fluid..... Seems to me the area where the stuck piston is is plugged as I cannot get air to blow through it.....

    the part number on my OEM P valve is EOZC-2B328-AA... These are unobtainable from what I have found and NOBODY is reproducing them or seems to be interested in doing so... The " service valve" number, for this P valve, is EOZZ-2B257-A which when googled brings up a DOZZ-2B257-A... Summit has these for sale, they show they fit a 70 mustang, but the picture is EXACTLY what my EOZC-2B328-AA looks like.....
    I have been tempted to order one, but I get tired of parts that don't work..... Its a $108 dollars.....
    Any updates on your car??
    Last edited by Bentley; 10-26-2023 at 09:48 PM.

  8. #58

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bentley View Post
    ....but it was plugged with dried hard brake fluid..... Seems to me the area where the stuck piston is is plugged as I cannot get air to blow through it.....
    No idea if it would do anything, but maybe soak it in a brake fluid bath for a few days. Might help loosen/soften/dissolve the dried crud.

    Glad to see you made it back.
    1985 Mustang GT (Mothballed...Desired restomod parts acquired...Top of my project list for my 2024 retirement!)

  9. #59

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    Quote Originally Posted by 85GTGuy View Post
    No idea if it would do anything, but maybe soak it in a brake fluid bath for a few days. Might help loosen/soften/dissolve the dried crud.

    Glad to see you made it back.
    Thanks for the welcome... Thats not a bad Idea.. I did soak it in some Transmission flluid and when I turn the piston it seems harder now.. I think the seals swelled up, making it worse, so I am hesitant to soak it again..
    Bit of a moot point, if I do not find the correct fitting ( went to 3 auto parts stores today) there is no way to " put it under pressure" to press it out.. The fitting I had ordered 5/8-24, did not work, it was a hair too big...... Nobody can figure out what size or what threads these are..

    Reminds me of looking for the exhaust manifold plugs when we removed our smog pumps " back in the day" ... Some weirdo threads on those too.....
    Last edited by Bentley; 10-28-2023 at 04:44 PM.

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