Is there a tool to remove spindle/hub assembly???

[v8only]

I am taking the entire spindle/rotor/caliper assembly off of my 88, and will swap it onto my 85 ttop. I think this is my first step with this car, as that is pretty much the last of the good stuff left on the old 88 parts car.

I have taken off a few before, and it requires a good # of solid wacks from a heavy hammer right to that point where it connects to the arm. I always miss, and fubar the backing plate and everything else in the area.

Is there a simpler method?? there has got to be some tool I can rent from vato zone to place right in that spot, give it one good wack, and have it out.

Please help, what is the name of this tool?? It has to exist? I simply don't like taking big hammers to naked parts.

[debo85lx]

Rubber mallot

[RACECAP97]

I can't picture where your talking about, is the tool your talking about called a pickle fork? For taking loose ball joints? I'm at a loss.

[v8only]

Not sure if there is a tool. If anyone has ever removed the spindle assembly from a fox using a big hammer, you know what I am talking about, just wondering if there was a tool I can use in conjunction with a hammer.

Also, how do I re install?? since I have to hammer this off, how does it go back on?

[Mike Croke]

There's two places requiring an Implement of Destruction. One is the tie rod end to the spindle. The other is the spindle to ball joint on the control arm. The bigger the hammer, the more effective it is. A carpenter claw type hammer just doesn't have the mass to impart a convincing blow unless you're willing to take a lot of swings. You want something like this:


The reason they're so hard to separate is a tapered seat fit. When putting back together, a medium amount of torque on the castle nut will seat the pieces again requiring a decent hammer blow to get apart. Torque the nut like you're tightening a wheel lug nut.

If you're having an awkward time wielding a heavy hammer and have a tendency to bounce it off undesired targets, try putting something between the sledge and spindle that will transmit the shock but give you a bigger target. Something like a steel plate or an old rotor. It just needs to be something that won't be too springy and absorb the impact of the hammer.

[86notch]

You need a ball joint seperater you can rent one at auto zone some people call it a pickle fork as one has already stated.

[v8only]

Thanks guys, you have all been a fantastic help!!

This seems like it should be a very, easy project.

How long does it take you guys to pull both assemblies off and swap on an 87-93 spindle/rotor/caliper?? i am thinking an hour or two eh?

[RACECAP97]

Ah ha, I was right. Their not all that expensive either. You can buy a set of them at sears for a very reasonable price. Two words to make the project easier, PICKLE FORK, lol. Good luck, let us know how it turns out.

[v8only]

pickle ford, that's my new friend!!!


I was at the salvage yard a few weeks back, and low and behold, there was a 94 vert!!!! WELL, my bro is doing a 5 lug conversion on his 88 notch using sn95 brake parts, so this car was the holy grail of parts. Being armed with nothing more than a beginners tool set (screw drivers, plyers) I began to run around like crazy looking for a hammer to knock this stupid hub assembly off.

Well, a few feet away, were some of the pick apart crew. They were taking tires off of wheels in a way that seemed very strange to me. They had what must have been at least a 15+ pound sledge attatched to about a 3 foot handle. They were swinging it at the tires till the tires popped off the rims. (ever wonder why your pick a part wheels have bang up marks all over the edges??? An idiot with a sledge took your tire off....I can't believe how many times these idiots missed and nailed the wheel)


Anyhow, I walked over there, and essentially said give me that thing. I proceeded to whack the living crap out of that assembly, and nailed everything BUT the right point. 20 minutes later, and 3 pounds lighter, I had the thing off.


Pickle fork is my friend. As usual, I'll flood this site with picks when I get it done.

[CapriGT]

Don't use a Pickle fork on a ball joint that you plan to re use. They can be damaged.

[86notch]

The only way a pickle fork will damage anything is if you let it cut into the rubber around the joint I assure you will have a better chance at damaging something by wailing on it with a hammer.

[debo85lx]

I don't think there is a way NOT to damage the ball joint with the pickle fork. I went and picked one up when doing the 5 lug swap on my 90, and I ripped those boots all to hell and back

I also flattened the end of the solid metal handle (of the pickle fork) with the 20# sledge, which was still barely able to break the spindle loose...

[CapriGT]

The only way a pickle fork will damage anything is if you let it cut into the rubber around the joint I assure you will have a better chance at damaging something by wailing on it with a hammer.

How would you suggest not ripping the boots? Or bending the thin metal of the ball joint?


I have pulled probably a couple hundred spindles off of ball joints and never once used a pickle fork. It may take a 2nd person, but the best way is to pry down on the control arm while hitting the spindle. hit it where the tapered stud goes though and you will be able to shock things loose

[RACECAP97]

Ok, how about this then. If your not supposed to use a pickle fork for this job, what the hell is a pickle fork for? Wasn't this the specific use for which the pickle fork was made? And I dont think i'd be using a 20lb sledge for this either, i'd be thinking somewhere around a 6-8 should do the job.

[CapriGT]

A pickle fork works fine if you are replacing the ball joints. If you want to re use them then avoid the pickle fork.

[cool86]

yeah i used the pickle fork and a 6 pound sledge - a few wacks at different locations popped them off my 86. As far as damaging the ball joint, my 86s were so loose and sloppy they needed to be replaced. to save more frustration I just opted for the Motorsport lower control arms with new ball joint and better bushings.

[telco]

The pickle fork is really designed for the tie rod ends not the ball joints. You can use it and I have but that's probably why my forks are a bit spread out. There is a tool that you can rent as stated above that presses the ball joint out of the spindle (and it will press the ball foint out of the control arm too) The Chilton's says you can loosen NOT REMOVE the nut and bang the boss of the spindle with a hammer. The spring pressure is supposed to be enough to break it free.

Penetrating fluid and the ball joint press is the way to go. I would assume you are taking the springs out first since you're stealing the spindles and will have no way of keeping the springs in. Try the chilton's way first if you can anf let us all know if it works. I just changed my whole front end but I left the spindles on the old control arms as they got replaced with 88s