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  1. #1

    Default 1979 replacement turbo for 2.3 lima

    Hey guys,

    I'm from Europe and I have a 1979 2.3 Mustang. It was turbocharged from the factory according to it's VIN, but it currently has no turbo.
    What are my options for getting one, how would you go about it? Would like to keep the car stock / reliable.

    Here's the pic for info
    Name:  Opera Snapshot_2023-05-03_162009_stangnet.com.png
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  2. #2
    FEP Power Member
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    I saw a whole set up for sale on FaceBook. Probably one of the Mustang/turbo groups.
    Fox Body/3rd Gen MCA Gold Card Judge
    84 SVO 24K miles, 85 Mclaren Capri Vert. 84 GT Turbo Vert.
    88 Mclaren Mustang Vert 20K miles, 89 Mustang LX Sport Vert,
    03 Mach 1 7900 miles, 74 Mustang II, 69 Mustang, 67 Mustang, 07 GT500,
    14 Mustang CS/GT, 15 F150 FTX Tuscany, 16 F250 Crewcab, 67 Tbird 47K miles

  3. #3

    Default

    If you are trying to keep it stock you will need to find the very unique (and often cracked) intake manifold and exhaust manifolds along with the turbo. What actual engine do you have in it now? I have several pictures here http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...=1#post1888773 of the stock, early style carb draw through turbo setup in my very long resurrection thread so you get an idea of what parts make up the stock style system. Iíd try and find a complete package that was recently working including the manifolds with carb and turbo and rebuild them all. You may find it easier to source (and ultimately more fun/tunable) EFI swap from the 1984+ SVO, Thunderbird, Merkur complete engine.
    Last edited by m81mclaren; 05-13-2023 at 08:20 PM.
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  4. #4

    Default

    double post
    Last edited by m81mclaren; 05-15-2023 at 01:13 PM. Reason: Double post canít delete
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  5. #5
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Hi welcome from another 79 2.3T engine owner.
    Have driven 4 cylinder cars since the 70"s. VW and Ford.
    Car has been and is driven at least weekly if not daily since 1980.
    They are fun to drive when they are right. Basic engine is tough built and reliable. The turbo package not so much.
    For me, replacing the turbocharger is one of the hardest repairs to do on this particular engine.

    Impression:
    From the picture, your 2.3T engine looks to be preserved, taken car of, and parts intact for a Ford carb 2.3T.
    V/c sticker, markings on the timing belt cover, overall impression.
    Clues from the picture show a factory turbo car setup.
    Whenever boost is not on, the engine runs like a heavy duty version of a n/a 2.3.
    These carb turbo engines will not run without a turbocharger installed on the turbo spec intake manifold.
    With minor mods, a regular non turbo 2.3 intake can be substituted reusing the currently installed turbo carb and linkage.

    Question:
    Is the car drivable or not? When was the last time?
    Are both the exhaust crossover and turbo downpipe present but not connected?
    Last edited by gr79; 05-14-2023 at 11:45 AM.

  6. #6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by m81mclaren View Post
    What actual engine do you have in it now? I have several pictures here http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...=1#post1888773.
    Wow what a special car!
    It currently has the stock 2.3L, modded to work without the turbo.

    Quote Originally Posted by gr79 View Post
    Question:
    Is the car drivable or not? When was the last time?
    Are both the exhaust crossover and turbo downpipe present but not connected?
    The car drives, the manifold was replaced and I have the stock one lying around. I think the turbo downpipe may also be lying around somewhere.

    Is the Garrett turbo I sometimes see pop up on ebay the correct one? Like this: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/225521502929...AAAOSwuQ5ji5QP

  7. #7
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Looks like the right assy. Fair price.
    Needs crossover pipes, center section oil line, and wastegate vac hoses.
    Transfer needed items.
    Add shipping.
    Needs turbo carb calibration for correct a/f under boost.
    Really not much diff in power with one over n/a stock config.
    Off the line, both engines are the same.
    Turbo starts working above 2500 or so under heavy load for a few seconds and that is it.
    During normal cruise there is no boost. Boosts happens only under load and with 1/2+ throttle.
    Varies between 1 and 4 pounds depending on throttle position, what gear trans is in.
    Faster car is going, the slower the power increases. Most responsive in 2nd gear.
    After a few seconds car accelerates a little faster than without a turbo.
    V6 type power not v8. Newer 4cyl cars are faster.
    A higher numerical rear gear, cam change, or nitrous will give same or better results.

    A whole lot of money, work, and time for small 30 or so hp gain w/5# boost for a few seconds.
    More reliable of a daily driver without one. turbo seals wear out then will burn oil.
    Value of turbo package is mostly for going back to stock for whatever reasons.
    Or for resale. Keep the turbo assy in the trunk to sell with car.

    The turbo vac switch array on the ds fender is gold.
    Controls boost timing retard and turbo dash light.

  8. #8

    Default

    Thanks for the detailed answer.
    I'm contemplating, whether try to go stock, or do something else.

    Where could I read up on improving the car's performance with the stock engine? What mods would be most efficient? Changing the engine will require changing the transmission and that quickly adds up.

  9. #9
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Search and read up articles on the web.
    try 'hotrodding ford 2.3 lima'
    Pretty much sums up what books say.
    If engine already has a high lift cam and is advanced, that is a setup for max low end power.
    Should be able to lay rubber at will.
    Cam should come on noticeably say at 3k rpm.
    Four cyl engines do not mind and like to be driven at higher rpms than a v8 at 2-3K vs 1200-1600.
    If not, everything has to be gone over to find out why not.

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