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  1. #1

    Default Body panel and rust question

    I was looking for some input. I am restoring my SVO and I have some rust on the lower rear 1/4 rear section behind the wheel. It has some pitting on the inside and maybe a pin hole that went through.

    Hanging a new quarter panel just seems too much when we are talking about a small area. The "INSIDE" of the area is fully accessible and I am using naval jelly to get rid of the rust for now.

    I use a DA to take the area down to bare metal on the outside and it seems pretty good.

    I am going to send it out to paint next week but really don't want to have to open up pandoras box. I fully understand that rust that is not taken care of WILL return.

    If the rust is neutralized and then some kind of preventative is applied, I am asking "CAN" it be handled that way to then be painted?

    If it is heavily pitted but the rust is now gone, can a good body guy then fare it out and level and then paint.

    Being that the backside can be treated is that helpful

    I will grab some pics when I can
    1981 Capri "Black Magic" I6 (sold)
    1985 Mustang GT (sold) Oxford white T-Top
    1985.5 Mustang SVO 9L
    1986 Mustang SVO 1D

  2. #2
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX


    Using a product such as POR 15 or Eastwood Rust Encapsulator should take care of the rust assuming you get all of it coated properly and sufficiently. The lower rear quarter is an easy area to fix due to being able to get to both sides of the panel. This allows you to treat the panel entirely and not have to worry about what might be on the backside. Worse case scenario, you can cut the lower rear quarter panel off and replace with clean metal and the patch line is hidden under the rear body molding when done, so it is virtually impossible to tell. LMR used to offer a patch panel for this, but I don't see it on their site right now. If needed you can cut one off a donor quarter panel and repair with a used piece as these are generally easy to obtain. I have even cut a few off totaled vehicles to save for future repairs such as this.

    Any good body person or shop will be able to fill and level out any pitting or damage from the rust and prep the area for paint so that it will not be noticeable once repainted. Best of luck with your repairs and your repaint on your SVO.

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  3. #3


    Rust occurs from the inside and eats it's way out like a cancer. I'd spend the extra money to have it cut out and a new piece of metal welded in it's place. Then go back and POR 15 the inside afterwards.

    Bill S.
    Retired bodyshop owner

  4. #4


    When I was rehabbing the LTS, I used a combination of Rust911, Corroseal, and POR-15.

    Rust911 is a great rust remover. When I did the doors on the LTS, I made a "trough" for them to sit and soak in to dissolve the rust on the bottom of the doors. Cleared it ALL off.

    The parts need to stay wet, but you can also set it up to flow/pump through a small "pond" pump. Something like the area you need repaired would be a good location for that. Put a catch tray underneath with some of the mixture and pump it up into the rear quarter and let it flow over and drain back into the catch for a couple hours.

    On the floor inside, I used Corroseal, which is a converter product. It does a good job of converting/sealing up rusty stuff.

    Over each of them I used POR-15 to seal things up.

    (My LTS project thread has a bunch of pics from the work on fixing the doors and floor)
    83 TC "Clone"
    85 Marquis LTS

  5. #5


    I agree with both of you. I have the donor piece if it is needed. It is a very minor spot and it is so border-line, I am more thinking out loud. I am gonna bring it to the guy who is painting it and ask his opinion.

    I am trying to save this car and keep costs down a bit. I am trying to keep this under 10k SMH LOL

    Thanks, I will update
    1981 Capri "Black Magic" I6 (sold)
    1985 Mustang GT (sold) Oxford white T-Top
    1985.5 Mustang SVO 9L
    1986 Mustang SVO 1D

  6. #6



    I cleaned up the inside of the panel with some Navy Jelly stuff and it actually cleaned up very nicely. The outside of the panel only had that one very small pop-thru but otherwise the metal is very thick and not "thin" at all.

    I brought her to the body shop and he was very quick to look and say dont worry about that at all, and he said that was "good" metal for them to work with. A dab with the TIG and you will be fine and also treat the inside with POR-15. He assured me that being able to see the entire inside of the panel is helpful in cases like that.

    Hopefully this week I bring her in for paint.

    It really is a ton of work to de-trim and get everything apart so when finished it looks "clean"... so many little things
    1981 Capri "Black Magic" I6 (sold)
    1985 Mustang GT (sold) Oxford white T-Top
    1985.5 Mustang SVO 9L
    1986 Mustang SVO 1D

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