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  1. #1

    Default 1982 mustang 2.3l slow crank.

    So I finally got around to try and start my 82 2.3l mustang today and it cranks over very slow. The car does not have a battery, I just used my tacoma to basically jump start it. As I was trying to jump start it the Voltage on my tacoma was dropping into the 10's (10 volts) and the positive/ negative wires on the mustang were getting warm! Also the negative side of the starter Solenoid was also very warm. All wired connections on mustang are good and tight! Car does have spark and fuel! Any advise would be great of to why it cranks so slow or would be draining my tacoma battery into the 10' volt area. Name:  20230417_175914.jpg
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    Last edited by x1986chp; 04-17-2023 at 08:30 PM.

  2. #2
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    It's got to have a bulstered up voltage of 14.9 volts via two batteries. You'll have to find a 56 or 58 battery, and use it to start the Mustang, and have you truck tend to any overload. In the handbook it warns against running the engine without a battery in the car. That specifically implies a battery must be in the Mustang. Once you've gotten that sorted, the base battery voltage and Cold Cranking amps with be above 14.9 volts and 530 Cold Cranking Amps. These are best voltages and amos to start with. While your sorting out the starting, the 2.3 will suck up a lot of voltage, and you won't damage the Variable Reluctor in the Ignition, or the Duraspark II box. Any spark voltage to plugs and leads and electric choke has to be in circuit, or the ignition or choke might get damaged. In my day, checking spark visually required have the plugs resting out of each cylinder one by one, and then earthed on an earthed wire to the exhaust manifold, or the electronic ignition might take a dump. Electrics, you can't really do short cuts that aren't the same as operation in the real world.

    Sounds like your getting into the swing of this little Horse. Good �� with it. I think you'll get it going great!

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    It's got to have a bulstered up voltage of 14.9 volts via two batteries. You'll have to find a 56 or 58 battery, and use it to start the Mustang, and have you truck tend to any overload. In the handbook it warns against running the engine without a battery in the car. That specifically implies a battery must be in the Mustang. Once you've gotten that sorted, the base battery voltage and Cold Cranking amps with be above 14.9 volts and 530 Cold Cranking Amps. These are best voltages and amos to start with. While your sorting out the starting, the 2.3 will suck up a lot of voltage, and you won't damage the Variable Reluctor in the Ignition, or the Duraspark II box. Any spark voltage to plugs and leads and electric choke has to be in circuit, or the ignition or choke might get damaged. In my day, checking spark visually required have the plugs resting out of each cylinder one by one, and then earthed on an earthed wire to the exhaust manifold, or the electronic ignition might take a dump. Electrics, you can't really do short cuts that aren't the same as operation in the real world.

    Sounds like your getting into the swing of this little Horse. Good �� with it. I think you'll get it going great!
    Well darn, I was trying not to spend 200$ on a battery because I'm not even sure the thing is going to run and I don't wanna dump a bunch of money into her just to pull the motor out and put a v8! But sounds like I just need to go get a battery. As always.....you are the man!

  4. #4

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    Here's a group 56 Super Start battery that O'Reilly's lists for your car....
    https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...-mustang?pos=0


    Here's a group 56 Motorcraft battery, but it says it doesn't fit an 82!
    https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...-mustang?pos=3
    1985 Mustang GT (Mothballed...Desired restomod parts acquired...Top of my project list for my 2024 retirement!)

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by 85GTGuy View Post
    Here's a group 56 Super Start battery that O'Reilly's lists for your car....
    https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...-mustang?pos=0


    Here's a group 56 Motorcraft battery, but it says it doesn't fit an 82!
    https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...-mustang?pos=3
    That's weird, they should both fit

  6. #6

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    Yea, I agree. I thought as long as it was a group 56 size battery and the positive vs negative terminals were positioned correctly, that it should fit. Might just be an O'Reilly's error.
    1985 Mustang GT (Mothballed...Desired restomod parts acquired...Top of my project list for my 2024 retirement!)

  7. #7
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    For Foxes, things varied. By 85, Ford had used five engine families so it's hard to be general. Lima 4, Falcon six, SBF, Essex 90 Deg V6, BMW Turbo Diesel.

    The Mustang had a pinched front nose inner fender for the Endurance style soft nose.

    The passenger side battery cars, the critical point for the other steel front Foxes, was the 3.8 V6's long snout on 82's with an Essex 90 degrees V6. That was a Mustang/ Capri option a year later, in 83.

    To fit that engine, you have a quite tall 9.2 inch deck was very much like a 9.2 inch tall block Cleveland or a 9.5 inch tall block 351W.

    On a 4 cylinder, the optional air conditioner doesn't get too close to the battery. On the 3.3 six, it does. So Ford has recommended battery classes.


    The battery box swap over to passenger side didn't happen until the port injected 2.3 Turbo cars in 83, then fully to drivers side batteries in 86.

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