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  1. #1

    Default Positive camber after 87-93 spindle swap

    Ok guys last year I did the 87-93 spindle and brake swap on my 86 GT. I put on all new parts including Koni Orange struts . When I went to get it aligned I notice afterwards that it still had positive camber. I realized I should have had aligned to the 87-93 specs? Today for the hell of it I loosened the strut mount and pushed it inward as far as they would go thinking I would gain some negative camber . I put the car on ground and it still has the top of tires leaning outward. So it looks like cc plates are in my future . Now, I have a set of older camber plates of unknown brand I got from a buddy. They have no caster adjustment and instead of being slotted they have two holes at each mounting point. If anyone knows what I’m talking about please let me know what brand you think they are. Should I install them with no caster adjustment? ThanksName:  AF0B1E71-F936-4AA3-A4F1-A616F6A3B508.jpeg
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  2. #2
    FEP Senior Member OX1's Avatar
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    I would spring for a newer set of caster /camber plates. They have slotted holes that allow you a greater range of camber vs the
    plates without slots. Also typically allow you to increase caster a bit, which is rarely a bad thing.

    I used these on the LTD, worked great.

    86 Capri, 5.0, 5Spd, A9L QH/BE, 47 lb Inj PMAS 3" MAF, Single T44 Turbo, Front Mount IC, TW170,
    Stock Cam, Explr Intake/TB, 1.7 Rockers, CF dual friction clutch, 3" DP, 2.5" full Exh, 3.27, 11.932 @ 115.78
    84 LTD, 331-10:1, TW170/Exprl Intake, 47 lbs inj/80 mm LMAF, Full Duals, Quarterhorse, Vortech 7PSI, Lentech AOD, 5 lug Mk VII brakes/rear, Eibach Sway bars, Cobra HB (dads ride, but I fix it )

  3. #3

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    Ok thanks . That’s what I plan on doing. What plates are you using? Also, I should align to 88-93 specs , correct?

  4. #4
    FEP Senior Member Patrick Olsen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigmd View Post
    Also, I should align to 88-93 specs , correct?
    Yes and no. The factory '87-93 specs are "better" than the earlier specs, so you could align to the later specs and that would be a step in the right direction. But IMO, even the '87-93 specs are still extremely conservative and counter-productive to handling and tire wear. For just plain old street driving, I'd set the camber to -1.25* to -1.5*; caster to as far positive as it will go (should be 3-4*), equal on both sides; and set toe to slightly in.
    '89 GT convertible - not a four-eye
    '82 Zephyr Z7 - future track car

  5. #5

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    Ok excellent. I will tell the tech those specs . Thanks.

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Olsen View Post
    Yes and no. The factory '87-93 specs are "better" than the earlier specs, so you could align to the later specs and that would be a step in the right direction. But IMO, even the '87-93 specs are still extremely conservative and counter-productive to handling and tire wear. For just plain old street driving, I'd set the camber to -1.25* to -1.5*; caster to as far positive as it will go (should be 3-4*), equal on both sides; and set toe to slightly in.
    x2 I shoot for -.75-1 degree camber and as much caster as I can get.

    MM CC plates are top notch, highly recommend spending the extra $$. You won't regret it.
    Jeremiah

    1986 Mustang GT 5spd, 3.27's
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  7. #7

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    Ok guys thanks for the responses . I was debating the MM plates or LMRs which are a bit less.

  8. #8

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    Yes I did this swap on my 80 a few years ago.

    Ended up buying the MM plates and getting rid of the old onion heads. The MM are very nice units and easy to adjust. I was also forced to get some aftermarket strut boots and bump stops that would fit as the old factory system mounted to the onion heads and would not work any longer with the extra adjustment available. I think 79 and 80 onion heads were unique that way.

    Curious if your toe adjustment was way off after swapping to the 87 spindles ? Mine was obviously really bad from the old spindles (to the point you would not drive it) and it took some eyeballing and then some trial and error on the road to get it setup properly with the steering wheel aligned straight.

    I did some research online and rigged up some DIY alignment tools and adjusted for approx -1.0 deg camber setting and a 1/16" toe in. For additional caster I just moved the top of the strut back a bit from where the old system placed it etc. There is a way to measure caster but it gets complicated and with the factory plates caster was fixed so just a tweak from where they were seemed to be reasonable etc. I was fortunate enough to remember to measure a reference point where the top of the strut was located before removing everything (a rare good move on my part lol)

    Someday I may get it aligned at a shop to verify my home alignment measurements but for now it drives straight and corners decent so I think its close enough. Its sure nice to have the bigger brakes on the front even if they are only 11".

    Good luck with your project !!

  9. #9

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    Thanks for the reply. When we did the swap last year , I put those camber plates on in the picture. Everything was way off to the point it was almost undriveable to get to alignment shop. The toe seems ok it’s the positive camber I need to get rid of. Just looking at it I can tell it’s way off. I’ll just go with the MM plates.

  10. #10

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    Did you do lowering springs at the same time as well ?

    In general I also read that lowering will affect the alignment adjustment to the point of needing CC plates with more adjustment capability.

    I don't think you can go wrong with the MM's. I also noticed a slightly better ride quality but that was compared to the old onion heads. Plus I was not sure what my previous alignment specs actually were...so I assume they are improved for the better now especially camber setting.

  11. #11

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    Yes . Forgot to add that i did lowering springs . Not sure if brand but it’s about 1” or a little more . I did those when I still had the 86 spindles on.

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