Quote Originally Posted by gr79 View Post
Buy asking questions here, you already know more than the p.o does about carbs. Great.
Little by little, particular details to be learned will make more sense. The carb is easy to work with.

Of course we are starting with a clean carb eh?

A vacuum gauge tool is a valuable help when tuning a carb and engine. Connects to a spare intake manifold tap.
I add in-car vac gauges on my vehicles to monitor engine vacuum during everyday driving.
No vacuum leaks wanted. Engine should pull 16"-20" on the gauge when warm.
Anything less usually indicates a vac leak somewhere on a correctly tuned engine.

Of course, install a carb base gasket. It is thick and has a stamped arrow to show the front.
A dab of motor oil on the throttle ball allows smooth action when throttle cable is snapped on it.

Carb will work with it's base taps capped off.
Could use one of the taps for the dist adv. Trial and error.
The largest vac hose tap, top ft corner opposite the fuel filter, is to the charcoal cannister.
Cap off any other vac lines so as to not have vac leaks that cause rough running or no start.
Check the idle mix screw, on the base below the choke, is 1.5 to 2 turns out CCW after lightly seating it.

All of my carbs (5200 and 2305 Holley) did/do not start any better with the choke working. Actually, better without (wide open).
Trick is once engine wants to start, watch the tach and keep pumping accel pedal quickly, 1/4 to 3/4 open, for a minute or two to keep engine alive during warm up.
After a few minutes, engine should smooth out enough to move the car.
Even then, mine always stalls at least one more time after car moves.
You mentioned the big vacuum port next to fuel is for smog pump..... I don't have one so can I just cap that off as well?