Close



Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 26 to 50 of 51
  1. #26

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    Yes. ND21209 is your best choice.


    Holley Weber 6500 2.3L Ford 2 Barrel Carburetor - R 9563

    You have to look for the 80 buck core charge, and specifically find the carb that suits your Automatic transmission and air conditioner if that's what you have. Do another Ebay or Facebook search and I'm sure you'll get the factors on your side.

    People here would like to help you.

    This info is for reference, I cannot advise you on sale...This post is about what carb you need. You can request parts wanted in the relevant sub forum here if you don't like a 310 dollar carb without a core.

    A rebuild carb is available for half the price, but if you request the right carb, you may get the air cleaner and other parts required at the same time by being a shrewd purchaser.
    I'm sorry for all the stupid questions! I'm just so new to carburetors and all these numbers and codes are very confusing. But I'm extremely thankful for all ur help

  2. #27

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    yes. Nd21209 is your best choice.


    Holley weber 6500 2.3l ford 2 barrel carburetor - r 9563

    you have to look for the 80 buck core charge, and specifically find the carb that suits your automatic transmission and air conditioner if that's what you have. Do another ebay or facebook search and i'm sure you'll get the factors on your side.

    People here would like to help you.

    This info is for reference, i cannot advise you on sale...this post is about what carb you need. You can request parts wanted in the relevant sub forum here if you don't like a 310 dollar carb without a core.

    A rebuild carb is available for half the price, but if you request the right carb, you may get the air cleaner and other parts required at the same time by being a shrewd purchaser.
    holley-weber-5200+6500

  3. #28

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    Yes. ND21209 is your best choice.


    Holley Weber 6500 2.3L Ford 2 Barrel Carburetor - R 9563

    You have to look for the 80 buck core charge, and specifically find the carb that suits your Automatic transmission and air conditioner if that's what you have. Do another Ebay or Facebook search and I'm sure you'll get the factors on your side.

    People here would like to help you.

    This info is for reference, I cannot advise you on sale...This post is about what carb you need. You can request parts wanted in the relevant sub forum here if you don't like a 310 dollar carb without a core.

    A rebuild carb is available for half the price, but if you request the right carb, you may get the air cleaner and other parts required at the same time by being a shrewd purchaser.
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/39426020824...emis&media=SMS


    This has to work. This the only 1 I found with what you replied lol (Holley Weber 6500 2.3L Ford 2 Barrel Carburetor - R 9563)

  4. #29
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Dunedin 9011, New Zealand, South Pacific
    Posts
    3,961

    Default

    Okay, gotcha on not needing Smog.


    It's an Original Equipment Manufacturer carb, which they say was "REMAN 1997-2003 Truck 2bbl" carb. That might be the earlier 2.3 Ford Courier 2bbl carb. It needs to have a verification code from the list supplied in post #5 before even considering it as a purchase.

    For CA, technically your 1982 car will have to pass the IM test Co Nox and HC figures for that year, and have the appropriate tin E2 ZE-9510- ### code on the carb. And it's likely to be feedback.

    As long as it still has that, you should be okay. I have access for advice on the idle and tracking Solenoid settings; there may be a cost for set up on your 2.3 to pass CA emissions, depending on County.

    As long as all emissions parts are present, and the tag is a valid one, consider purchase, but this is not my call.

    You have to decide yourself.

    Your car has a primary light off catalyst, and the secondary bed catalyst, and the 53 elements required by your colored VECI placard.


    It's E2AE 9C485 and three letters, with a colored idiogram on it.


    The BAR approved agent checking has to be satisfied all items are unmodified and stock, but for what your trying to do, that carb should work.

    You still have the air cleaner and many other small parts to verify.


    Darren our Canadian Ford 79-82 Fox owner supplied this for SuperDuty455, a French guy restoring his 2.3.








    Picture 14 of 14 in this article shows the MCU computer on the driver's side shock tower.

    https://www.caranddriver.com/reviews...-speed-review/

    The automatic MCU is :-
    1981 FORD MUSTANG 2.3L AT ECU_ECM #E1ZF-12A651-D1A is box number P072 or 4072

    The manual MCU is :-
    1981 FORD MUSTANG 2.3L 4cyl ECU_ECM #E1ZF-12A651-C2A is box number P074 or 4074


  5. #30

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    Okay, gotcha on not needing Smog.


    It's an Original Equipment Manufacturer carb, which they say was "REMAN 1997-2003 Truck 2bbl" carb. That might be the earlier 2.3 Ford Courier 2bbl carb. It needs to have a verification code from the list supplied in post #5 before even considering it as a purchase.

    For CA, technically your 1982 car will have to pass the IM test Co Nox and HC figures for that year, and have the appropriate tin E2 ZE-9510- ### code on the carb. And it's likely to be feedback.

    As long as it still has that, you should be okay. I have access for advice on the idle and tracking Solenoid settings; there may be a cost for set up on your 2.3 to pass CA emissions, depending on County.

    As long as all emissions parts are present, and the tag is a valid one, consider purchase, but this is not my call.

    You have to decide yourself.

    Your car has a primary light off catalyst, and the secondary bed catalyst, and the 53 elements required by your colored VECI placard.


    It's E2AE 9C485 and three letters, with a colored idiogram on it.


    The BAR approved agent checking has to be satisfied all items are unmodified and stock, but for what your trying to do, that carb should work.

    You still have the air cleaner and many other small parts to verify.


    Darren our Canadian Ford 79-82 Fox owner supplied this for SuperDuty455, a French guy restoring his 2.3.








    Picture 14 of 14 in this article shows the MCU computer on the driver's side shock tower.

    https://www.caranddriver.com/reviews...-speed-review/

    The automatic MCU is :-
    1981 FORD MUSTANG 2.3L AT ECU_ECM #E1ZF-12A651-D1A is box number P072 or 4072

    The manual MCU is :-
    1981 FORD MUSTANG 2.3L 4cyl ECU_ECM #E1ZF-12A651-C2A is box number P074 or 4074

    So it need to have one of the codes on the carb b4 purchase?

    E0AE-AFA
    E0PE-ANA, APA, ATA,
    E0ZE-AFB,AFC,BCA, JB, JC, SA, SB, SC
    E0EE-NA, NC, ND, TB, TC, VA, VC, VD,
    E1DE-DA,EA
    E1ZE-RA,SA,
    E2ZE-ACA,ADA, APA, ARA, UA, YA,

  6. #31
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Dunedin 9011, New Zealand, South Pacific
    Posts
    3,961

    Default

    I thinks so. Preferably E1 or E2 so it works with the Feedback items your California spec 2.3 has


    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy
    Read









    AND Jeeps partly Ford inspired MCU


  7. #32

    Default

    I don't think it's a ca car. Had Nevada plates on it and it doesn't have that computer in the pictures above

  8. #33
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Dunedin 9011, New Zealand, South Pacific
    Posts
    3,961

    Default

    Cool. Ford's early information said Manual transmission cars had feedback carbs. If your car is Auto, and 49 states, it will say so on the buck tag behind the drivers side front indicator lamp, which you can read. It's has a DSO number on it. Where the buck tag is, depends on if it's really an 82 model, or a late 81 from San Jose`.

    Anyway, if it's not feedback, any carb will do, even a earlier one.

    Hope all this gets you set on the right path without too much trouble.

  9. #34

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    I thinks so. Preferably E1 or E2 so it works with the Feedback items your California spec 2.3 has
    I found a tomco 2-1209 for 150ish dollars. This carb will work?

  10. #35

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    Cool. Ford's early information said Manual transmission cars had feedback carbs. If your car is Auto, and 49 states, it will say so on the buck tag behind the drivers side front indicator lamp, which you can read. It's has a DSO number on it. Where the buck tag is, depends on if it's really an 82 model, or a late 81 from San Jose`.

    Anyway, if it's not feedback, any carb will do, even a earlier one.

    Hope all this gets you set on the right path without too much trouble.
    The tomco #2-1202 says

    1997-2003 Truck 1997-2003 Truck Granada Ghia Mustang

    1997-2003 Truck1997-2003 Truck

    82 GLX

    82 Ghia, L- Capri

    Pinto Base, Pony, Square

    80, Bobcat

    2.3 L

    NOS

  11. #36
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Dunedin 9011, New Zealand, South Pacific
    Posts
    3,961

    Default

    That oughta work well. It should have a VOTM, and you can work through all the other stuff by following the 1979 to 1980 tune-up details from user M81.

    Hopefully, you've got all the stock air cleaner bits and the vacuum lines to get started. If not, we can coble something together. If it doesn't have to be Smoged, then you can use the stock 1979 to 1980 vacuum stuff to get it started.

    This can be a lot easier. I don't advise anyone ever remove OEM emissions equipment for your cars year. That's someone else's responsibility.

    These cars are quite reasonable if the stock smog lines are used.

  12. #37

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    That oughta work well. It should have a VOTM, and you can work through all the other stuff by following the 1979 to 1980 tune-up details from user M81.

    Hopefully, you've got all the stock air cleaner bits and the vacuum lines to get started. If not, we can coble something together. If it doesn't have to be Smoged, then you can use the stock 1979 to 1980 vacuum stuff to get it started.

    This can be a lot easier. I don't advise anyone ever remove OEM emissions equipment for your cars year. That's someone else's responsibility.

    These cars are quite reasonable if the stock smog lines are used.
    VOTM? No I don't have the air box/cleaner assembly

  13. #38
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Dunedin 9011, New Zealand, South Pacific
    Posts
    3,961

    Default

    Vacuum Operated Throttle Modulator, the Yellow thing at the back that nudges the throttle.

  14. #39
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Dunedin 9011, New Zealand, South Pacific
    Posts
    3,961

    Default

    Either is okay. That 1997-2003 date is it's remanufactured date.

  15. #40

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    Either is okay. That 1997-2003 date is it's remanufactured date.
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/25525615831...emis&media=SMS

  16. #41

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    Either is okay. That 1997-2003 date is it's remanufactured date.
    This is what I found!

  17. #42

  18. #43

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    That oughta do it! ⛽
    Thank you for all your help. I don't think Ida figured this **** out without you honestly

  19. #44
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Dunedin 9011, New Zealand, South Pacific
    Posts
    3,961

    Default

    Hopefully you can make the steps work for you. Ford were forced to implementing a lot of stuff just to allow those cars to be sold. Enjoy yourself!

  20. #45

    Default

    So I just picked up a tomco 2-1209. My question is what vacuum lines are necessary for it to run and which ones can I cap off? I don't need to pass smog I just need it to run so I can move it around or onto a trailer!

  21. #46
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    SE Michigan
    Posts
    5,141

    Default any questions and pictures are welcome helps to diagnose we may have answers

    Buy asking questions here, you already know more than the p.o does about carbs. Great.
    Little by little, particular details to be learned will make more sense. The carb is easy to work with.

    Of course we are starting with a clean carb eh?

    A vacuum gauge tool is a valuable help when tuning a carb and engine. Connects to a spare intake manifold tap.
    I add in-car vac gauges on my vehicles to monitor engine vacuum during everyday driving.
    No vacuum leaks wanted. Engine should pull 16"-20" on the gauge when warm.
    Anything less usually indicates a vac leak somewhere on a correctly tuned engine.

    Of course, install a carb base gasket. It is thick and has a stamped arrow to show the front.
    A dab of motor oil on the throttle ball allows smooth action when throttle cable is snapped on it.

    Carb will work with it's base taps capped off.
    Could use one of the taps for the dist adv. Trial and error.
    The largest vac hose tap, top ft corner opposite the fuel filter, is to the charcoal cannister.
    Cap off any other vac lines so as to not have vac leaks that cause rough running or no start.
    Check the idle mix screw, on the base below the choke, is 1.5 to 2 turns out CCW after lightly seating it.

    All of my carbs (5200 and 2305 Holley) did/do not start any better with the choke working. Actually, better without (wide open).
    Trick is once engine wants to start, watch the tach and keep pumping accel pedal quickly, 1/4 to 3/4 open, for a minute or two to keep engine alive during warm up.
    After a few minutes, engine should smooth out enough to move the car.
    Even then, mine always stalls at least one more time after car moves.

  22. #47
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    SE Michigan
    Posts
    5,141

    Default

    I have used a winch to pull cars on trailers.
    Used only the starter once as last resort to get car up onto a trailer dolly (car is manual trans).

  23. #48

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gr79 View Post
    Buy asking questions here, you already know more than the p.o does about carbs. Great.
    Little by little, particular details to be learned will make more sense. The carb is easy to work with.

    Of course we are starting with a clean carb eh?

    A vacuum gauge tool is a valuable help when tuning a carb and engine. Connects to a spare intake manifold tap.
    I add in-car vac gauges on my vehicles to monitor engine vacuum during everyday driving.
    No vacuum leaks wanted. Engine should pull 16"-20" on the gauge when warm.
    Anything less usually indicates a vac leak somewhere on a correctly tuned engine.

    Of course, install a carb base gasket. It is thick and has a stamped arrow to show the front.
    A dab of motor oil on the throttle ball allows smooth action when throttle cable is snapped on it.

    Carb will work with it's base taps capped off.
    Could use one of the taps for the dist adv. Trial and error.
    The largest vac hose tap, top ft corner opposite the fuel filter, is to the charcoal cannister.
    Cap off any other vac lines so as to not have vac leaks that cause rough running or no start.
    Check the idle mix screw, on the base below the choke, is 1.5 to 2 turns out CCW after lightly seating it.

    All of my carbs (5200 and 2305 Holley) did/do not start any better with the choke working. Actually, better without (wide open).
    Trick is once engine wants to start, watch the tach and keep pumping accel pedal quickly, 1/4 to 3/4 open, for a minute or two to keep engine alive during warm up.
    After a few minutes, engine should smooth out enough to move the car.
    Even then, mine always stalls at least one more time after car moves.
    Xctasy kinda knows what's going on with the car because he's been helping me since I've bought the car and pointing me in the correct direction so I was hoping he would respond. But I know nothing about carbs and I don't really have a visual reference to go off of since I bought the car wo a carburetor. But I just need to know basically what vacuum line on the car are necessary to get it to run! I don't need it to be smooth as butter, I just need it to move around and drive it a mile or two to dmv to get vin verified to put the car into my name. Plan to swap to v8 at some point so don't really need to have it run ties! Just need it to run good enough to move it around and onto a trailer at some point. But main goal is to move it into my drive way and to dmv

  24. #49

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gr79 View Post
    I have used a winch to pull cars on trailers.
    Used only the starter once as last resort to get car up onto a trailer dolly (car is manual trans).
    Name:  Screenshot_20230329_162044_eBay.jpg
Views: 53
Size:  315.8 KB

  25. #50

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gr79 View Post
    Buy asking questions here, you already know more than the p.o does about carbs. Great.
    Little by little, particular details to be learned will make more sense. The carb is easy to work with.

    Of course we are starting with a clean carb eh?

    A vacuum gauge tool is a valuable help when tuning a carb and engine. Connects to a spare intake manifold tap.
    I add in-car vac gauges on my vehicles to monitor engine vacuum during everyday driving.
    No vacuum leaks wanted. Engine should pull 16"-20" on the gauge when warm.
    Anything less usually indicates a vac leak somewhere on a correctly tuned engine.

    Of course, install a carb base gasket. It is thick and has a stamped arrow to show the front.
    A dab of motor oil on the throttle ball allows smooth action when throttle cable is snapped on it.

    Carb will work with it's base taps capped off.
    Could use one of the taps for the dist adv. Trial and error.
    The largest vac hose tap, top ft corner opposite the fuel filter, is to the charcoal cannister.
    Cap off any other vac lines so as to not have vac leaks that cause rough running or no start.
    Check the idle mix screw, on the base below the choke, is 1.5 to 2 turns out CCW after lightly seating it.

    All of my carbs (5200 and 2305 Holley) did/do not start any better with the choke working. Actually, better without (wide open).
    Trick is once engine wants to start, watch the tach and keep pumping accel pedal quickly, 1/4 to 3/4 open, for a minute or two to keep engine alive during warm up.
    After a few minutes, engine should smooth out enough to move the car.
    Even then, mine always stalls at least one more time after car moves.
    Name:  Screenshot_20230329_162026_eBay.jpg
Views: 54
Size:  287.0 KB

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •