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  1. #26
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    Why would I mind? I love it!
    That at least looks red. The VHT brand rattle can 'bright red' really was too orangy.

    That motor looks great! Stroker?

    Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  2. #27

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    Thanks! Yes, it's a 347 also. Probably not too much different that what you're building.

    The blue is going to look great, too. How much of the rest of your engine do you plan to paint? Heads? Intake? Valve covers?

    I only painted the block and timing cover red, valve covers are black crinkle, and everything else I left natural. Unfortunately, not much of the red gets seen once the engine is in the car and accessories are installed. A person has to really get up close to even notice I painted anything. I've debated repainting my valve covers and maybe intake red just to get a bit more color under the hood.
    Thomas

    1985 Mustang GT - Build Thread
    347 (Stock Block, Scat Crank & Rods, Probe Pistons, 11:1 CR, AFR 185's, PP Crosswind Intake, Custom-ground Comp Hyd Roller Cam, Scorpion 1.6 Roller Rockers, Holley 3310-4), T-5, 8.8 w/3.55's, MM SFC's, T/A, PHB, LCA's, Strut Tower Brace, K-Member Brace, Bilstein HD Struts/Shocks, MM/H&R Springs, SN95 5-Lug, Cobra Brakes, '04 Mach 1 Steering Rack

  3. #28
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    I painted the block, timing cover, oil pan, water pump. Plan to paint the intake and maybe the brackets. Planning on the black Motorsport valve covers with blue script. Accessories will stay natural as will the heads themselves.
    Probably blue hoses too.

    Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  4. #29
    FEP Super Member mmb617's Avatar
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    Since we're talking about painting engines I thought I'd throw in a few random thoughts of mine. Hope you guys don't mind.

    While my son's car is not a four eye it is a Mustang. He had built his '67 from a stripped roller into a very nice car. He decided to paint the short block 347 with the same color base/clear that he used on the body. It seemed like a lot of additional work to me when you can hardly see the block when the engine is installed. He did the timing cover and water pump in black because he didn't want too much blue in the engine bay.

    It turned out nice but you don't really notice that nice blue paint job on the shortblock. That's my car photobombing the first shot:







    When I built my engine I wasn't concerned about it looking too pretty as my car is far from perfect and I was mainly building it for the Friday night drag races at Beaver Springs. I left my 408 shortblock in the black it had when I got it. This is actually a picture of the 393 I had in it at first. The 408 was painted the same way with the block left black and some rattle can blue I had on the shelf used for the timing cover and water pump.

    That engine went kablooy crossing the stripe one night. The 408 I replaced it with survived 4 years of almost weekly racing and my car is now retired to putt-putting around town.

    Last edited by mmb617; 04-28-2023 at 06:49 AM.
    408/T5/3.73's

    We're not fast racers, we're more what's known as half fast racers.

  5. #30
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    Yeah, I'm just kinda having fun with the color this time. That's why I hit the TC and water pump - they are visible.

    Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  6. #31
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    This is more gooder.
    I know, I showed a pic earlier, but I took the tape off today.
    Had to do something. Came back from camping and figured this is something. Lol

    Hopefully my cam arrives in the next couple weeks and I can actually start BUILDING.

    Update: camshaft shipped today (5/10) so I should be able to start building soon!

    Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk
    Last edited by richpet; 05-10-2023 at 08:46 PM.
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  7. #32
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    Cam should be here Monday, so checking clearances.
    Shop supposedly did this and it's a good shop, so I am just gonna check one journal. If you had your crank ground (mine is new) you might want to check more. Up to you.

    Start with clean/dry journals. Snap in your crank bearings to the block, flush. There is a top and a bottom, but because of the notch they only fit one way.

    Then GENTLY lay in your crank after being sure all the journals are clean/dry.

    Lay a strip of plastigage across the bearing journal.

    Install the bearing cap and tighten to full torque. I'm using ARP bolts so use a small bit of their lube on the threads, and both the top and bottom of the washer. ARP says 70 ft/lbs with their lube in 3 steps. I did it finger tight, then 40, 55, then 70. Remove the bearing cap and measure. Ideally between the two middle numbers is great (.0015 and .002). As you can see I am just barely above the .0015 so I am fine. Measure at a couple different places along the strip. Then clean it off.

    Some say go larger (.002-.003) but that will also mean a loss of oil pressure. Racers do, but they also replace bearings often and run high pressure/volume pumps and mainly high rpm. I'm a street guy. At .0017 ish I am on the slightly tighter side, but fully within specs, especially since I'm using a standard pressure/volume oil pump. But this motor will probably get 5/30 synthetic for a while, eventually I may use 10/30. I need good pressure at idle and the bottom half of the tach where I spend much of my time.

    Some never check the shops work and all goes well. But, I like to double check. For those first timers, just take your time, keep everything clean, and have a spot of confidence.

    A couple notes:
    Caps install 1-5 front to rear, arrow pointing forward.
    Don't use the bolts to pull the cap down as you can crack/chip the block or cap. Gently tap/wiggle/work it down gently.
    Thrust (fat) bearing goes in the middle on #3.
    Check rod bearing clearance essentially the same way.

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    Last edited by richpet; 05-14-2023 at 10:52 AM.
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  8. #33
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    Test fit the cam since it looked like some cam bearings looked askew.
    Fit perfectly!

    The build can officially commence!

    Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  9. #34

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    Great news! Look forward to seeing how your 347 turns out.
    Thomas

    1985 Mustang GT - Build Thread
    347 (Stock Block, Scat Crank & Rods, Probe Pistons, 11:1 CR, AFR 185's, PP Crosswind Intake, Custom-ground Comp Hyd Roller Cam, Scorpion 1.6 Roller Rockers, Holley 3310-4), T-5, 8.8 w/3.55's, MM SFC's, T/A, PHB, LCA's, Strut Tower Brace, K-Member Brace, Bilstein HD Struts/Shocks, MM/H&R Springs, SN95 5-Lug, Cobra Brakes, '04 Mach 1 Steering Rack

  10. #35
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    Install the cam. Clean it with solvent then use the supplied HP lube to slather all the lobes and bearings.
    When you install, go slow. Use one hand on the front end (install a bolt in the end for leverage if you want) and one in the block. Reach fingers through each bearing to stick one in the end and move it in being as gentle to the bearings as you can.

    Install front plate, it is marked how to install it. Torque to 10ft/lb. You need to use the 'thin head' type bolts or you won't clear the timing sprocket! The bolts have criss/cross cuts on the head and are about 1/2 thickness of your standards 1/4-20 bolt.

    For now it will move back and forth a bit. When you install the front bolt through the timing gear it will be solid.

    Don't forget to use assembly lube and/or the supplied cam lube on the bearing races first.

    Again, not a pro, but not my first build either.

    Next is the crankshaft.

    Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk
    Last edited by richpet; 05-25-2023 at 08:35 PM.
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  11. #36
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    Install crank. Snap in bearings being sure they are square and flush. Apply a liberal amount of assembly lube. It's a good idea to wipe them with a degreaser/paper towel first. Now that you have sticky crap in the block keeping dirt away is paramount as it will stick easy!

    Install main caps with their bearing halves. Gently tap/nudge the caps in to the block.

    I'm using ARP bolts/lube, so 70 ft/lb in 3 steps. I did finger tight, 30, 50, 70. Do cap #2, then #4, then #1, then #5.

    Using a screwdriver pry the crank forward, backward and holding it forward again do the #3 bearing (thrust bearing).
    Remember the arrows point forward in the main caps, #1 in front to #5 at the rear.


    I'd install the timing set but I don't seem to have a crankshaft keyway for the damper.

    Edit: Got a woodruff key! May get the timing set and cover on today (5/26)! If I do it's that much less exposed stickiness to attract dirt and that much closer to having a sealed up motor.

    Fyi - when done for the day a nice clean trash bag goes over the motor and I do my best to 'seal' the bag opening around the back of the block where it's mounted on the stand. Knot tying, puncturing bag over a bolt end, whatever it takes to keep dirt out.
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    Last edited by richpet; 05-27-2023 at 09:50 PM.
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  12. #37
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    Install timing set. Insert one of the metal dowels in the cam hole. Position it at the bottom of it's rotation (in my pic it's on top. Just rotate it to down under the cam hole). Keyway on crank facing up.

    Install timing gears so that the marks on them line up. Torque down the cam bolt/washer. You will notice now that the cam has been pulled forward and the lobes align with the lifter bores.

    Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk
    Last edited by richpet; 05-27-2023 at 09:48 PM.
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  13. #38
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    Install front seal into timing cover. Put a 2x4 or something directly under that part as you do not want to crack the cover when pounding in the seal!
    Not part of the 'instructions', but I always run a thin bead of rtv around the seal. Just in case. When wet it helps as a lube to drive the seal in evenly and flush. When dry a touch of anti leak insurance.
    Use a board across the seal to help hammer it in fully, flush, and even.

    Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  14. #39
    FEP Super Member mmb617's Avatar
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    Thought I'd pop in to say that you are doing a great job explaining everything you're doing and taking really good pics of it all. I find it very interesting. Every engine I've built I started with an already assembled short block as I don't feel I have the tools or knowledge required to start from a bare block like you are doing.

    Keep up the good work. I look forward to the next installment.
    408/T5/3.73's

    We're not fast racers, we're more what's known as half fast racers.

  15. #40
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    Thanks! I'm having fun and if someone is on the fence about trying, maybe it will help boost confidence a bit.
    And if I do something super stupid maybe someone will stop me in time! Lol!
    This is my 3rd or 4th complete build and all have been from a bare block.
    I've done LOTS of maintenance and repair that got deep-in sometimes. Grew up on a farm with not a huge amount of family income so learned repair at a very young age. Then my dad was shop foreman at the Ford dealership here locally so learned a lot more there.
    Not a pro, but I get it done most times

    Small delay in the build now. My daughter and her family will be here from across the country this next week. Aaannnnd I don't have bolts for the TC or WP yet. They're ordered at least.

    Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  16. #41
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Am with mmb617. Agreed to help enjoy the experience for those on the fence. Is better than repair work.
    Engines done this way are much closer to blueprinted than the factory did.
    Not everyone can do this. Planning, parts, knowledge, focus, discipline, plus tools, time, workspace.
    Have the beer or smoke reward after done for the day. Yah we did on the assy line back in the day.
    A different environment having to do only one task vs entire build. The engines passed hot test so hey...
    Only seen one inspector making the rounds like a mailman with a torque wrench.
    Now each workstation has inspection cameras and check tools that compare work to a database before proceeding.
    Engines are cold tested but not hot tested. At the warehouse GM rarely got one back from their truck assy plants.

    Triple check everything use paint marker if needed to verify inspection checks.
    That blue paint looks sharp. Light colors help show any leaks later on.

    Have done two complete daily driver warmed over rebuilds. Both clocked 150k+. Kept and saved notes.
    Four wheel stand, 50 gal black bag between 'events'., arp bolts, plastigage, good parts, torque everything.

    Fun part is coming. Stuffing the pistons.
    At Ford Dearborn Engine, they had a big guy with a punching style white cloth glove, ring compressor, and a rod guide tool.
    First build was a VW 1600. Cracked a new ring during piston install. Caught that one right away.
    No way to know that unless piston is pulled back out to check or find out later after build.
    On the 2.3, had the shop gap the rings and order the pistons.
    I used the same old adjustable ring comp. tool, rubber hose to guide rod ends, wooden hammer end.
    Trick is to lube and punch the ringed piston in all the way in the bore with one good straight quick confident punch.

    Roush car collection open house out here does a V8 engine assy competition outside under a tent. Interesting to watch.
    Two Roush teams. Engine has to run. Takes them 20 minutes.
    Bare engines on engine stand carts. Some items used are preassembled like pistons with rods.
    They dump all the engine oil in the valley just before setting intake on.
    Top Fuel is another that amazes with outside rebuilds between rounds.

  17. #42
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    I'm ready to install the pistons, but I have to check ring gap first. Rod bearing clearances were good. Checked the same way as main bearing clearances.
    Just gotta have the time.

    Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  18. #43
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    A few notes:
    Check ring end gap by pushing the about an inch into the cylinder bore with a piston and using a feeler gauge. If too tight use a ring file to slowly open the gap. Remember, you can always take more off, but you can't put any metal back.

    On a balanced assembly each rod/piston assembly needs to go in the correct bore. The shop will probably mark them with a sharpie for which cylinder it goes in.

    On the piston top will either be an arrow or a small notch. That goes toward the front of the motor.

    When installing rings most have a dimple. It faces up. Or a bevel, it probably faces down. They come with instructions .

    If you have a stroker the piston pin may intersect the oil ring pack. In that case you will probably have one more ring to install, an oil support rail.


    I will detail ring and piston installation when I do it. Today? After my visiting family leaves? Don't yet know.

    When it comes time to install, this tool is SO much easier than the pliers things!

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    Last edited by richpet; 05-29-2023 at 05:52 PM.
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  19. #44
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    If you are not sure of your rod bolts snag a caliper. At the threads this is a 3/8" bolt, the top is stamped 8740. I put the other bolt in the calipers head-up so you could see the printing in it - it is necked down under the head so no interference with measurement. On the chart that came with it it indicates 45ft/lb for them using ARP lube (see pencil tip).
    I tried to get as much in focus as I could. Will add pics and lengthen this post entry as I go.

    Install lower support ring. Then install the rippled oil ring. Be sure the ends do not overlap each other. It has ridges that ride behind the two thin oil control rings. Then install the two skinny oil control rings. One on top of the rippled ring, one below.

    Here they are installed. Pic is of ends of rippled ring showing they butt together.

    Install other two rings, dimple up. All the ring gaps are scattered to lose less compression.

    Some people dip the piston in oil, but too much in the rings can burn/carbon foul/coke up the rings when the motor is fired up. Just oil the skirts well, a little on the inside of the installation tool inner diameter. Then slip the piston in using your fingers to compress the rings until all is inside the installer. Use hands or a hammer handle to tap the piston down until the rod end is over the crank journal. You did remember to put assembly lube on the rod bearing first, right? Lube up the cap's bearing and tighten per specs. For me it's 45 lbs so I did fingers, 25, 45 with ARP lube.

    Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk



    Last edited by richpet; 05-30-2023 at 09:39 PM.
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  20. #45
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    That was #1. Now do #5 to complete that crank journal set. Two pistons ride on each journal.

    Another note:
    When each ring comes out of the bag it gets wiped off, just in case.

    Also, toss a little lube on the sides of the rods where they bolt to the crank.

    Aaannnddd I don't have a crank bolt yet for the balancer. That means I can't turn the crank now so a short break from assembly is required. I like to install the pistons when the crank is at the bottom of it's throw to make it easier to access the rod bolts.

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    Last edited by richpet; 05-31-2023 at 05:13 PM.
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  21. #46
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    Since I don't have a balancer bolt yet, I can't spin the crank to install the rest of the pistons easily.

    So today I installed all the rings on each remaining piston and sealed them up in gallon Ziploc bags for when I have one.
    Because the rings may shift when being moved/stored/etc I will double check the location of each ring end gap prior to install. Refer to pic in previous post detailing that.



    For install again, I lube the cylinder bore, piston skirt and sides with oil. I drip some assembly lube (oil works too) on both sides of the rod end where it will rub against it's partner rod and the sides of the crank journal.

    For the rings, follow the directions that come with them, but essentially:
    Indented dimple/words face up. The two skinny oil rail support rings don't have an up or down. If there is a beveled edge it probably faces up.

    Remember assembly lube is both slippery AND sticky. Dirt will stick and dirt is the enemy.

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    Last edited by richpet; 06-11-2023 at 08:32 PM.
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  22. #47

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    Looking good, Sir!

    Ideas to turn the crankshaft - if you found a few bolts to put in the flywheel flange, you could use those to put a screwdriver/prybar in. Alternately, pick up a bolt from the hardware store that would fit in place of the balancer bolt temporarily to put a socket on. 5/8-18 appears to be thread size.

    During my build a bought the special crankshaft socket along with a degree wheel. It was handy, but I was interested in going the the cam degreeing process. Might be a bit more than your looking to spend though if you're not degreeing your cam.

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-4798/make/ford
    Thomas

    1985 Mustang GT - Build Thread
    347 (Stock Block, Scat Crank & Rods, Probe Pistons, 11:1 CR, AFR 185's, PP Crosswind Intake, Custom-ground Comp Hyd Roller Cam, Scorpion 1.6 Roller Rockers, Holley 3310-4), T-5, 8.8 w/3.55's, MM SFC's, T/A, PHB, LCA's, Strut Tower Brace, K-Member Brace, Bilstein HD Struts/Shocks, MM/H&R Springs, SN95 5-Lug, Cobra Brakes, '04 Mach 1 Steering Rack

  23. #48
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    The bolts in the back of the crank is a great idea! I hadn't thought of that!
    My snout bolt should be here in a couple days but if I get time to go out there before then that will do the trick! When it shows up I will install the balancer. Maybe even the water pump.
    I got a bolt to replicate the balancer bolt but it got real tight and I decided to stop.


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    Last edited by richpet; 06-12-2023 at 09:17 PM.
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  24. #49

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    My " How to rebuild SBF" manual recommends some red loctite on the cam retainer bolts......
    I also purchased and used the piston/ring installer you used and it is the ONLY way to go....
    Looks like you are doing a nice job....
    Last edited by Bentley; 06-16-2023 at 08:38 AM.

  25. #50
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    My manual doesn't mention that, but a thread locker is always a good idea . Even the lighter strength blue will help keep bolts from backing out.

    I did install the balancer today as my bolt came. I would have put a couple bolts in the rear of the crank to turn it, but I've been pretty busy anyway.

    When installing the balancer, the seal sometimes folds over a bit. What I do is lightly oil the damper portion that will pass through the seal. Install, then back it out a bit to 'un-fold' the seal, then re-tighten to spec. In my case, ARP bolt with their lube, 120ft/lb.

    Now I can install the rest of the pistons! Maybe tomorrow.

    As a note: the 347 puts the oil ring literally inside the piston pin hole. With no support the oil rings won't be able to handle their job, hence the extra oil ring support ring included in these kits. It installs dimple depression on top (so there's a small dimple sticking downward) like in the pic, right in the piston pin hole. This does two things:
    It puts the ends of the ring far away from the hole (where two non touching ends will have no real support)
    And, just conjecture on my part, the second thing is that that the protruding dimple will prevent the ring from rotating as it will stop against the side of the piston skirt IF it rotates at all.

    Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk
    Last edited by richpet; 06-22-2023 at 12:45 PM.
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

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