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  1. #1

    Exclamation KAM EEC wire on 86 gt

    Does anyone know where I could locate the KAM wire for the EEC on a 86 gt? I'm tuning with the moats and the tuner seems to think the the EEC is loosing memory after I turn the key off? He says this because after we load a tune it runs good, then after I turn the car off and then restart it it looses the tune. I have checked the 3V battery in the Moates and it reads 3.22V with my DMM. He mentioned to make sure I have 12v at the KAM wire. But I cant seem to locate that wire to test it? What I thought was the wire might not have been, I wanna say I thought it was pin 60? KAM stands for Keep Alive Memory Thanks for any and all help that anyone can provide.

  2. #2
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Yellow wire, Pin 1. Ford usually codes it as 37 in the EVTM (Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual).

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    Yellow wire, Pin 1. Ford usually codes it as 37 in the EVTS books.
    Reading my mind Sir.
    Pin 1 circuit #37, yellow wire.
    great minds think alike lmao
    79 Zephyr, 4.6L 4v/4r70w swap, with team z front and rear suspension, 8.8 and upgraded brakes and coil overs. Running Holley Terminator X Max.

  4. #4
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    5V is what is normally required, the reference voltage.

  5. #5

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    Thank you! I think I was way off! Where does it get it's power from? Do you happen to have any schematics? I am going to be looking for only 5V, not 12V?

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    5V is what is normally required, the reference voltage.
    Thank you! I think I was way off! Where does it get it's power from? Do you happen to have any schematics? I am going to be looking for only 5V, not 12V?

  7. #7

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    Also this voltage test is performed with key off.
    Last edited by smokedya; 01-06-2023 at 04:04 PM.

  8. #8

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    Looking at my harness slot #1 is a black wire and I get 12.36 V key off. Slot #37 is a yellow wire and I dont get any volts with key off.

  9. #9
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Sorry, just do what Moates suggests, the Yellow wire KAM pin is protected by a 3 AMP fuse, and the other grounding Pins before the EECIV supply have a 16 AMP fuse. Although it's easy to damage an EECIV chip, the four power and ground pins won't kill anything, even with 17 volts coming into it.


    I should have said, it's a 5V data logged reference voltage.

    It can take approx 15.5 volts, when it drops below 10.5 volts it triggers a fault code.

    EEC-IV's supply uses the clutch or inhibitor switch to operate the KOER, KOEO. Power goes to pins 37 and 57 and ground goes to pins 40 and 60. The conditional trigger for faults is via a reference voltage change.

    On the 1985 Carb 5.0 HO, a non Feedback, Non EECIV engine, it still has a cut down EEC IV computer which operates as a two speed accessory drive which uses this system to control the upshift indicator, and idle speed control via the Duraspark II pink wire and a BMAP sensor.


    Ford can chose to configure the EEC iV 60 pin system anyway it likes to get results, so it puts some 17 volt capable resisters on those enlivening pins, so just follow Moates advice.
    Last edited by xctasy; 01-06-2023 at 10:21 PM.

  10. #10
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    There are three things that can murder your base idle.

    1. A diode exists in the stock early 86 wiring, the replacement IACs are all internally diode equiped, and so you can have a wrong voltage occuring. See

    " http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...ng-Idle-SOLVED "

    2. If it is a BIN A9L in a SD car, then all the Manual Neutral Safety Switch and O2 sensor jumper wires must be set up as per the FoMoCo decreed wiring diagram.and pinout protocol. If not, the codes cannot be retrieved. The redefined J3 should allow routine Equus Code retrieval.

    3. The Profile Ignition has to allow a clean SPOUT. The stock neodymium magnet fails over time, and the cut out wheel cannot do its job in sending a clean spark trace to the data logging facility. The difference between Auto and Manual TFi ignition is the self idling speed. If you use the wrong ignition control, the self governing idle speed can vary by 300 rpm. If J3 has been revised, the Base Idle reset might not be working.

    Generally, the EEC IV is self compensating. If these basic parts 1, 2 and 3 check out, you'll nail the set up every time.

    Its a sad world when stock computer systems, that Ford spend millions of dollars on to meet Emission and Fuel economy and drivability required by the Federal Test Procedure, are not supported, and wonderfully intelligent tuners, who have kept all the stock closed loop requirements, are then wacked by the EPA.

    I'd post links to help you, but I've just got done watching the third person get his cell phone and You Tube contacts get hacked by the Police because Federal or State law has considered to have been broken.

    You can see why companies no longer support Open Loop adjustments and later ECM upgrades.

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