2023 what did you do to your fox today?

[Bryan Knebworth]

I don't think SSL was to blame though it would be nice to have. It was something on the server/database side. Just a strong hunch.

They haven't even re-directed the old URL to the new one, so who knows how many members are still in the dark and don't know it's back up with the whole php vs index thing. This is a super easy fix but I'm just talking in the wind too.

If I hadn't decided to join Facebook to get on the FEP group there (woof), I would still be trying to access the forum with the link/URL I had been using for years, which still doesn't work, and I wouldn't have any idea.

JUST SAYING.

I've hated computers since before there was a World Wide Web. The only thing keeping me proficient in computers is my ability to type. My late friend, who was like Bill Gates smart, said; "http" is weak, while "https" is strong. Whenever he'd say something about the subject that I hate most; Computers, I'd lock it away.

Now, there were two people who formed this site in 2002, Mike Croke, and a woman named EVYLGT. Maybe it was cheaper to just do "http" for them not sure. Grateful the site is back however.

I've said this before, but if you want to be creeped-out, view; 1982-1993 Mustang GT registry; it was essentially the precursor to FEP. I went there once and there was only ONE GUEST in 16 months. As long as a dozen or so folks log into FEP daily, this site shall survive

[85GTGuy]

I've said this before, but if you want to be creeped-out, view; 1982-1993 Mustang GT registry; it was essentially the precursor to FEP. I went there once and there was only ONE GUEST in 16 months.

Appears to be dead now... timed out twice trying to get there. Got a good link to it by any chance?

[Bryan Knebworth]

Appears to be dead now... timed out twice trying to get there. Got a good link to it by any chance?

www.mustanggt.org

I should warn readers the above link is from a post dated 2002--and might not work. Interestingly, 2002 is the same year FEP was formed. The previous website's fatal mistake was having a very narrow focus; 1982-1993 Mustang GT's ONLY

FEP's idea of creating a site that includes ALL Fox Fords makes it more fun and educational. Carry on

[ITdude87]

Went for the last drive of the year while the weather was decent to empty the tank and blow any remaining carbon, cobwebs, and gremlins out of the system.

Topped up with ethanol-free and changed the oil before parking in its winter resting place.

Now, I’m making my list and checking it twice for things to do in the off season.

[gr79]

Gr79 I think you were super excited today...
Lol

Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk

Yay back in business. First post since September. Truely missed reading and communicating with y'all.
Did another search and found a working link, bookmarked it, deleted old bookmark.

Haha Wow did not know of the multi post until today. Site went down day after last post in Sept.
Decided to edit and split up the one post into parts.

Update:
Why leave a real well designed and special rare like new Ford OE SVO padded knob on the shelf?
Well, it and its matching stick is back on the shelf in the shifter parts box.

Noticed repro leather SVO style knobs are same look and shape but look to be 1-2 fingers shorter height at the threaded end.

Swapped back to the chrome lever and black ball with no rubber isolator after a few weeks use.
20 minute job.
Found the SVO leather knob shape was making it harder to get reverse gate with a side grip.
More slippery of a grip than a ball plus the rubber isolator added a bit of 'slop'.
I prefer the rock solid overall gate feel and grip of the prior setup with no isolator much better.
No rattling, buzzing, bit more visible vibration but that is fine.

[ITdude87]

Did another search and found a working link, bookmarked it, deleted old bookmark..

With all due respect, I was just thinking about you specifically for that exact reason. For whatever reason, the old address still exists and hasn't been updated to re-direct/forward to the new URL which is my #1 complaint with the site currently.

Who knows how many other folks out there still think the site is down as a result, ya know?

Good to see you back

[gr79]

Before heading out to the store Monday afternoon, decided to warm up the engine by trolling thru neighborhood in 1st gear as usual.
Suddenly, started to hear a grinding noise from the front end. Brake pads? Caliper stuck? Strut? Wheel bearings?

Tire has been rubbing the inner plastic wheel well when turning.
Have noted recent occasional scrapping noise when backing out of drive.
Steering has not been centering out normally after a turn for a while.

Now car does not coast at all well as if the brakes were dragging. Like driving up a curb or ramps.
Was only a block away, so parked it and took the Ranger.

Once back home, did not like the looks of the ds front. Sagging, tire much higher in fender than pass side.
Strut looked ok on both mounting ends.

Yesterday did a quick inspection and did some measurements under car.
DS control arm is lower than ps by 1/2" or so. Driveway square under front of car is pretty smooth.
Measured fender lips to ground, frame rails, looked for damage, cracks, clues.

Raised car, spun the tire. It would rotate only 1/2 way around then would hang up.
Took tire off. Noticed metal shavings on top of caliper and at bottom of wheel rim.
Not a lot but there should not be any whatsoever.
Pads look like new.

It is a bad ds ball joint. Is ready to pop out of its socket.
Rubber boot is extended straight a good inch or more no 'fold' with arm under load car, on ground.
When jacked, load off suspension, boot is less elongated.
Looks to be the reason the ds control arm is lower than normal.

Have had no vibration, clunking, pulling, wandering, or abnormal tire wear. Caught it in time.

What was up the metal shavings?
The loose ball joint is extended causing the end of the control arm to drop and scrape the brake rotor inner hub.
Defiantly observed shiny metal in the rotor inside hub edge and from the end of the control arm.
The metal shavings are more from the control arm than the rotor. Rotors are fairly new so no rust yet.

Online searchs and research of symptoms points to ball*joint replacement needed.

Time to take it in for two new Moog premium ball joints. Am also ordering new struts. They are 20 years old.

Last time in shop, they said car will be needing new ball joints. They read the future.
There are no grease fittings. 3075A arms does not have them. So much for assuming they are of the low friction style.

Can thank my lucky stars car is back in the driveway before something real bad happened.
Will have it flat bedded to the repair shop.

[85GTGuy]

Wow. Glad nothing serious (all things relative) happened. Hope she gets fixed up right.

[gr79]

Totally agree.
Car will be in trusted hands at one big special cool repair shop.
Large old efficient 3 gen family-owned shop has done nice work on the car and truck.
Rear drum brakes, clutches, suspension.
Work on anything big, small old new. Been in business since 1949. They love classics.
Employees are more of a well experienced mechanic type that respect decent old stuff. All mechanics hate rust.
Shop focuses on vehicles that have moved on from dealer warranty work to the now older repair stage.
Long time same loc, very fair prices, great communications, fast and correctly done repairs no bs.

Use quality replacement parts with minimal markup and allow customer supplied parts.
Exact part numbers and parts that will be used or needed are clearly listed on RO and repair quotes.

Picture a well-seasoned lobby and repair work area, smelling of oil, welding fumes, no led bright lighting or fresh paint.
Must have 20 bays. The truck side and car. Car side has tools and mechanics on a lower level.
Most bays have long drive on ramps. The long ramps are level with the bay door entrance.
I get nervous seeing the car on a two post.

Serious frame work? They have done whole truck frame swaps and even custom fox chassis rear frame rail repair.

[Shoegazer GT]

I've made the difficult decision to sell my '85 GT. Learned a lot, made a lot of memories, and had a ton of fun turning someone else's project into a reliable daily with teeth, but after the low-speed parking lot collision and what is likely a clutch release bearing that's on its way out - and I cannot explain this - I just don't have the passion for the Mustang that I used to.

[Matt_83_GT]

I've made the difficult decision to sell my '85 GT. Learned a lot, made a lot of memories, and had a ton of fun turning someone else's project into a reliable daily with teeth, but after the low-speed parking lot collision and what is likely a clutch release bearing that's on its way out - and I cannot explain this - I just don't have the passion for the Mustang that I used to.

That's too bad, but it seems you got a lot of good times out of it and now someone else can do the same. Any other car interests/projects moving forward?

[gr79]

60F cloudy, iso rain showers, and windy. Driveway stayed wet. Normal is 40's-20's at night.
Time to start up the car. Charge up the battery. Stay in driveway.
Can move it but not drive it because of suspension repair work needed.

No start yesterday. No clicking, warning lights ok. VOM battery check today read under 10v. Huh?
It was plugged in to the onboard 1.5v automatic charger for ? 5 days?
Nope. Forgot to reconnect to, at the battery, the short black extension cord stowed in/behind the front grill area.
Saved electricity though 34w x 24/7 x one week. Prob used up the savings recharging at 10a.

Half hour charge 12v Sears automatic 10a/2a. Meter stayed 10+ amps= 12.5v started up fine, warmed it up,

Got out the car's 45 year old B78-14 full size spare tire. Wonder how old the air is in it?
Guess used 3-4 times total <10 miles.

Temp patched a 'new' 1/2" small rust hole in spare tire well with asphalt window flashing tape.
Touched up tire well rust spots with an almost empty can of black hammer spray paint.
A rare chance to paint something outside in cold midwestern December.

[ITdude87]

Started collecting parts for winter maintenance:

Smog port block off plates for the back of the heads
Ford Racing idler pully (to replace the smog pump)
Ford Motorsport plug wires (Thanks ZEN50!!)
Upper and lower intake gaskets
16'' 4-lug OEM Pony wheels and new center caps
Thermostat gasket (going to swap the 195 for a 180 while the intake is off)
Amsoil coolant (https://www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-prop...e-coolant-ant/)
New "5.0" emblems and a rear deck Ford emblem (despite being advertised as the correct blue, it's still a little darker than OEM, might not install this)
New fuel injector O-Rings (again...while the intake is off....might as well)
New dome light LED bulb - The one I installed last winter burned out already
New lower radiator hose (upper is newer, lower looks like it's original still...preventative)

Anyone have thoughts or strong opinions on the propylene glycol coolant here?

Procrastinating getting started. I've never pulled the intakes off before and I'm a little gun shy.

Cheers

[Two86fiveoh's]

No plans for the Mustang this year, been working on it's new stable mate. Picked up a project car a couple weeks ago to keep me busy this winter.

1993 Volvo 240 wagon with an unfinished V8 swap.

[Matt_83_GT]

No plans for the Mustang this year, been working on it's new stable mate. Picked up a project car a couple weeks ago to keep me busy this winter.

1993 Volvo 240 wagon with an unfinished V8 swap.

Have fun with that! I'm planning on messing with my doors this winter (window guide bushings, new window motor for passenger door, new electronics for driver's door, interior door handle release, etc.). The exhaust will get addressed in spring after I get my clutch/tranny looked at. Guy I bought the car from said the clutch is new and the tranny is rebuilt, but something's slipping (I think it's the clutch). Wondering if they machined the flywheel when they did the new clutch. I don't have an issue getting it into gear, but it revs when I give it gas and then fully engages again. Sounds like clutch, but we'll see...

[ITdude87]

Fired it up for a few minutes to get the juices flowing. Replaced the emblems, plug wires, and battery tray.

Noticed there was a small drip coming from the water pump.

Swore several times and put the cover back on the car. Looks like I'll add a pump and a new gasket to my list above. Not happy about it.

[gr79]

Damp wet 50F afternoons since last week. Car is outside.
Haven't started the car in over 2 weeks. Did trickle charge the old battery most of the time.
Decided to warm up the car on driveway get some heat in it while still light out.
Plus charge the battery up.
Checked bat volts before start via cig lighter with DVM. 12.11v.
Did a recheck. Grounded the lead in the cig socket and blew the fuse.
Replaced it, the last 20a on hand. Add resupply to shopping list.
Then almost every time at key on, the tach buried itself at 8000 and stayed. WTF?
Decided to proceed and start engine to see what happened next.
Once key was moved to start engine started, tach was ok, engine smooth.
Several restarts later, tach was ok no spiking. Never did that before.
Gauge showed almost 14v so charging was happening.
After a few minutes, poured a spot of coffee and turned on ws and rear defog.
Ran engine, wipers, and heater until rear defog timer ended its cycle.

Possible damp weather was messing with the tach connection at the coil.
Once the engine bay warmed up, moisture went away.

[Matt_83_GT]

I also started mine up over the weekend, just getting the juices flowing. And they did. Seems that I've sprung a power steering fluid leak. Haven't found just where, yet, but I'll keep looking! I also found a washer and nut in the drip pan under the car, but have no clue where they're from, either. They're rather large and I've yet to find a spot where they fit. I hope it's all part of the same problem!

[gr79]

Ordered new parts from Rock Auto. Recently received a discount code from them.

2x Monroe 71828 SensaTrac (new name is OE Spectrum) struts. NOS? Will see soon.
Same strut number struts been on car since 2001 and 150k. Car feels right as in its 80's TRX days.

1x SMP DL-1 door lock cylinder.
Drivers' door cyl and key have just too much wear have to wiggle key most of time to unlock door.
Any delay is not good.
May eventually rekey it to match ignition lock. Or deal with soon to be 4th different key for one car.
Should need only 2.

1x Walker 18" universal 2.25" aluminized exhaust flex pipe.
Seven-year-old muffler outlet to tailpipe flex pipe connection is worn out. Time for another.
Is an easy to do strong solid solution to connect factory tailpipe to muffler having a different outlet position from stock.
Flex vs solid pipe allows custom adjustable connection to the tailpipe and a correct position of twin tips.