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  1. #1

    Default 2023 what did you do to your fox today?

    Motor is back in the car. Waiting on a heater hose.

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  2. #2
    FEP Member Hans's Avatar
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    Just ordered for 1450 bucks parts from LMR. Parts are 700 dollar, rest is tax and transport.
    Trying to motivate me to tear apart my crashed 95 for parts for the 79.


    Verstuurd vanaf mijn CPH2219 met Tapatalk

  3. #3
    FEP Super Member NAVYCAT's Avatar
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    Jul 2004
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    Montebello, CA
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    I installed my cobra front brakes and my 2018 mustang GT rear 13" brakes with larger master cylinder and 18" rims onto my 86 capri.
    2017 Ford Explorer Sport (DD) 1986 Capri 5.0 Silver/Red
    1969 Falcon XW GTHO coupe (SOLD) went to Australia
    Past 4 eyes-
    4th. 1981 Capri "White" Black Magic I6
    3rd. 1984 Capri RS V8 Black/grey
    2nd. 1984 Capri RS V8 White/red
    1st. 1984 SVO Grey/grey (traded it for a worn out 1970 BOSS 302)
    Both '84 Capri's vin# were 10 away from each other
    U.S. NAVY 1980-2009

  4. #4
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    Mar 2003
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    Lowell, Oregon
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    I'm still waiting to get mine back from the body shop from the September rear-ending. I dropped it off 5 Dec.
    But, it's new motivation is starting to come together. Block at machine shop and stroker kit en route. They will do all the balancing and such, I will assemble at home.
    Already have a potential/more than likely buyer for the current motor. He wants to drop it in a '72 Bronco. Different oil pan and it will fit right in there.

    Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! 9.5:1 .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads, 268 cam, T5, 8.8 with 3.55, plus all the stiffening goodies, all control arms, lowered, alum shaft, x-pipe with Outlaws, FiTech FI system...

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  5. #5

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    Nothing for 2023 yet.

    1986 GT.

    Ordered:
    plugs, wires, cap and rotor, PCV valve and screen, fuel filter - All Motorcraft. I probably don't need it, but it'll give me something to do during the winter.

    Ready to install:
    Replacement thermostat - Current runs a little cooler than I'd like and I have an OEM replacement ready. Not 100% sure on the "burping" process required afterwards to get rid of any air bubbles afterwards. I haven't done any cooling related work in a long time.... It's going to be messy and I'm putting it off.

    Debating:
    Ordering a replacement hood decal. I can't quite decipher WHICH one available is the closest to original color (charcoal). If any of you can push me in the right direction on which is the best, that'd be awesome. Leaning towards this one on LMR....but....CJ Pony has a few options as well. Between the two sites theres: Black, matte black, special gray, gray

    https://lmr.com/item/LRS-N108SG/Full...ang-Gray-85-86

  6. #6
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Jun 2009
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    SE Michigan
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    Drove it few days ago to run afternoon errands.
    Was a damp misty drizzle day. Warmed up car 10 minutes until all windows were defrosted.
    Everything works except the manual choke (sticks) and the blue bright lights 'on' indicator.
    Weather has been mild so far this winter around here with no salt clean roads.
    Reapplied thin layer of silicone paste to door weatherstrip gaskets.

  7. #7
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    Mar 2003
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    Lowell, Oregon
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    [QUOTE=ITdude87;19

    Ready to install:
    Replacement thermostat - Current runs a little cooler than I'd like and I have an OEM replacement ready. Not 100% sure on the "burping" process required afterwards to get rid of any air bubbles afterwards. I haven't done any cooling related work in a long time.... It's going to be messy and I'm putting it off.[/QUOTE]

    It's not hard, don't overthink it. Air will go to the high point, you let it out. Lots of info on it available.
    I always put the front end up on ramps so the rad cap is the high point. Makes it easy. In fact, I never run it with the cap off, etc. I fill it run it. Check it. Repeat ad needed. Done it MANY times and never an issue

    Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! 9.5:1 .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads, 268 cam, T5, 8.8 with 3.55, plus all the stiffening goodies, all control arms, lowered, alum shaft, x-pipe with Outlaws, FiTech FI system...

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  8. #8
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    Mar 2003
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    Lowell, Oregon
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    Finally drove the Granada for the first time in 6 weeks as it has been at the body shop due to getting rear-ended back in September. So weird to have shiny new paint on the trunk lid, and 40 year old faded everywhere else. LOL! Oh well.
    The Cougar tail lights at least don't look bad.
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! 9.5:1 .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads, 268 cam, T5, 8.8 with 3.55, plus all the stiffening goodies, all control arms, lowered, alum shaft, x-pipe with Outlaws, FiTech FI system...

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  9. #9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by richpet View Post
    It's not hard, don't overthink it.
    I tend to overthink everything. Appreciate the quick and easy advice. Seems simple enough, I'll make sure it get it up on some ramps. Your logic checks out!
    1986 GT - Medium Canyon Red
    MCA/WMMC

  10. #10

    Default

    Previously:
    Ordered the LMR replacement gray hood decal (looks like a pretty damn close match to "charcoal"), and removed the old one without much fuss. Need to prep the hood and install the new.

    Yesterday:

    - Replaced the passenger side "seatbelt tensioner" trim piece in the door sill. Looks spot on now, and is not longer loose.

    - Replaced the thermostat I noted above. Low and behold there was a 160* in there, which explains the low temp gauge readings and prompted me to do this in the first place.

    - Replaced the PCV valve and grommet. I tried to get the metal filter out, unsuccessfully (with a magnetic tool). I took a top down picture with my phone, and it looked pretty clean and new so I opted to not fight it, and left it in for another day. That's an awful tight squeeze back there, sheesh.

    - Pulled the distributer out (to be able to get a wrench on one of the thermostat bolts) as well as removed the cap, rotor, and plug wires. the previous owner had the plug wires all in the wrong spots. The longest wire was on cylinder #1, and so on. I cut the zip ties and prepped for proper cable management. New wires look MUCH better than what was in there and the wire combs are all in good shape.

    I was pretty gassed after fighting with the PCV and TStat, so I left things alone for the night.

    So now: Proper thermostat, new rad cap, and PCV valve are in. I'm ready to continue with the plugs/wires/cap/rotor the next time I jump in. I'll also need to fire it up and top up the coolant and burp the air (Thanks for the advice richpet).

    My one issue - I removed the distributer without marking the location of the rotor. Admittedly a rookie move. I remembered the location mentally, and slid it back in as such - so I'm praying I don't have any issues here. If it doesn't fire up, I'll know why at least.

    How tough is it to re-align the distributer, heaven forbid, I put it back incorrectly?

    ON DECK: Pulling the cluster and replacing the backlights with LED, along with other misc LED swaps.
    Last edited by ITdude87; 01-23-2023 at 11:01 AM.
    1986 GT - Medium Canyon Red
    MCA/WMMC

  11. #11

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    Find tdc on #1 piston both valves closed and line up the rotor with #1 on cap. Pretty simple but Iíve read the oil pump stick can be a lil trouble from time to time. You can pop the valve cover off to see springs arenít compressed and use a screwdriver or something in spark plug hole to find tdc or plug the spark plug hole with your finger and find the compression that way but it may take a few tries.
    Last edited by Carbsovertech; 01-23-2023 at 10:51 PM.

  12. #12
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Needed to get out and drive car instead of truck to stock up on groceries and fill up the gas tank.
    32F cloudy, windy, dry roads no salt. Area got 1" snow Saturday.
    More snow 2"+ predicted Wednesday. So far, has been mild dry winter hare.

    Removed nylon cover over wipers and cowl grill that kept snow out of that area. Brushed off the rest, scraped w/s.
    Loaded two coolers to keep some items cold and more easily transported.
    Key and door operation normal. Car has been parked outside thru 40 cold Midwest winters, which can give fits.
    Had the onboard Exide 1.5a battery charger plugged in since Friday.
    Engine happily started quick and even idled smoothy after few minutes' warmup without using manual choke or heat to carb.

    Car, being black, never really feels cold inside before warmed up no matter how low the temp outside is.
    Has vinyl seats, but rarely have used the portable 12v seat bottom heater kept in car for the winter.

    Rear hatch window defrost initially did not work. Relay and light ok.
    Opened hatch and wiggled my diy grid repair spade connector a tiny bit for better electrical contact. Bingo took 2 seconds.
    The ds + grid connector broke free few years ago from the glass.
    A spade terminal, simply wedged between the butyl and the grid's edge strip on the glass, does the trick.


    Fuel 3.16/gal took 9.4 gal. 30.00 to move fuel gauge from low fuel warning to full.
    Strangely, hardly anyone was out shopping this evening for some reason. Was a treat to pull right up to a pump at Sams Club.

    Now to cover car and truck tomorrow to help keep any sleet and snow off. Secure tarps with bungees and magnets.

  13. #13

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    Roughed in the bump steer kitName:  20221008_143051.jpg
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    Sent from my SM-A326W using Tapatalk

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