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  1. #1
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Default MM Strut tower brace mounting question

    Going to be mounting my MM strut tower brace this weekend and had an idea that I wanted to run by you guys. Hopefully Jack would maybe chime in also. So Iím wondering if a guy can install bolts from inside strut tower out and then install a E-clip or an inside star lock washer that would hold bolt in place? So then if a guy had to remove brace to work on car he would just have to undo and remove nuts and washers then slide brace off and bolts would stay locked in place. Thoughts?
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  2. #2
    FEP Senior Member BMW Rider's Avatar
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    That might help for the two top bolts on each side, but the third bolt would still need to be removed to allow the brace to lift off. Not sure how often you expect to need to remove the brace, but it's not something that needs to be done routinely.

  3. #3
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMW Rider View Post
    That might help for the two top bolts on each side, but the third bolt would still need to be removed to allow the brace to lift off. Not sure how often you expect to need to remove the brace, but it's not something that needs to be done routinely.
    lol oh ya I guess that’s right duh, never even thought about that. lol my bad. I didn’t know how often I’d need to remove it so I thought this would be a solution if I had too. Seems like a pain in the ass to have to remove if you had too though.
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  4. #4
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    i do not know what an E-clip can handle,, from the internet on e-clip "One potential disadvantage of E-clips is that it might have a limited capacity to hold a load, depending on the requirement. However, if too tight, it could also damage the shaft or affect the performance of the assembly." i used nuts on my install.

  5. #5
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bob85gt View Post
    i do not know what an E-clip can handle,, from the internet on e-clip "One potential disadvantage of E-clips is that it might have a limited capacity to hold a load, depending on the requirement. However, if too tight, it could also damage the shaft or affect the performance of the assembly." i used nuts on my install.
    the plan was to also use the supplied lock washers and the nuts. The e-clips would sit against the shock tower holding the bolts in place then the brace would slide over top and be secured with the nuts.
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  6. #6
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Had to remove my strut bar to get the valve cover off all the way off (2.3 engine).

    Is a Ford Motorsport item but fastens to the towers with similar pattern.
    Those front bolts are the worst part because they have to be removed to lift the bar off adding aggravation and time to a job.
    Fishing any of the bolts up thru the tower from the wheel well is no fun.
    Then trying to keep the bolts from turning.

    Could hot glue or wrap a string or thin wire to the bolt threaded end, then pull it up thru the tower hole.
    Actually considered just inserting the front bolt backwards from the top and leave it.
    I left the ds front tower bolt off as a test and the bar does not show any marks from movement.

    Double nutting should also keep the bolts from turning when tightening and removing nuts.
    Plus retain the bolts. I like the e-clip idea too.

  7. #7
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    A 5/16 'evil' rivet nut or an anchor nut, may work..
    Tack, epoxy, or Loctite them down for good measure.
    They don't look hard to find and a inexpensive Dorman install tool is available.
    May be able to get a 1/4" rivet to work. They need a strong install tool. Pneumatic is best.
    Last edited by gr79; 11-25-2022 at 12:52 AM.

  8. #8
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Got the bar mounted yesterday and it was relatively easy. Wasnít all that bad reaching under shock tower to install washers and nuts. Couple pumps of the floor Jack got me enough room to reach in to install. Canít wait to see if it makes a difference when I drive it in 6 months lol
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  9. #9

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    I have had mine in and out multiple times. Yeah, takes more time than not having it, but not hard at all reaching in there.
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear.
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

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