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  1. #1

    Default Inblock Air Oil Seperator and PCV Valve Questions

    While doing my distributor awhile ago i noticed this big obstructive muffler looking thingy sticking out of the block under the intake manifold, which turned out to be the air oil seperator before the pcv valve.






    It looks like a pain to remove without pulling the intake off but its definately full of crud, and the pcv valve was stuck shut from all the crud in that.
    I cleaned out the pcv but i might just replace it for peace of mind. The separator i dont know where to go on this.
    Searching around i see some can/cylinder shaped ones with a smaller looking outlet barb on it, i dont see one like the one i have anywhere so im assuming its not available anymore.

    What are my options here?
    Can i just replace it with one of these can shaped ones or will i need a new hose to the pcv valve also?
    If so is the pcv valve the same one or is it different?
    Is cleaning it or replacing the media inside it a feasible alternative?

  2. #2
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Not much working room to remove the separator with engine installed in car.

    Back flushing it while installed and oil pan installed would likely flush crud into the oil pan.
    A shop vac at the pcv port may plug it up more. And suck oil out of the pan.
    With that much buildup as stated, would be afraid of the oil pickup screen getting blocked.
    Even with oil and oil pan plug removed, is no way to see if pan is clean inside.

    Redid my 79 2.3T engine back in 2000.
    Did remove the separator. Was concerned by leaving it on the block, machine shop chips would collect in it.
    Sort of remember it was a press fit and used short pieces of 2 x 4s under it to help pry it off without distorting anything.
    Tap it on the side a bit too. Tapped it back into the block with a rubber hammer. Not a big deal as i thought it would be.
    Once off prob soak it in gasoline or something, blow it out from the pcv end. Believe there is metal mesh inside.
    Did not use any sealer.

    Have always used Motorcraft PCV valves. I trust their calibration and quality vs aftermarket.
    Made sure the connecting hoses were clean and fit snug as possible for a decent vacuum seal.

  3. #3

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    I put nice expensive full synthetic oil in it, which i had to drain and replace twice to fix a few things, so im not looking to backflush it while in the block. I actually forgot these 2.3l cars had clogging oil pickup problems.
    Looks like i can probably get it out if i pull the distributor again for room to work with but its basically right up against the bottom of the intake manifold, if i pull that ill have to grab a gasket set since ill be compelled to replace them while in there. This is assuming i get it out and i can salvage it.
    The only "similar" looking one i see has the outlet pointed up and i dont know if it fits, the can shaped ones have a much smaller looking barb on them so im guessing that will require new hoses.
    I would really rather try to salvage this one if i can.
    One thing i noticed that finally makes sense since i got this car was everytime i checked under the hood the oil dipstick was always out and i summed it up to it just not holding itself down, i never considered it was being pushed out because of backpressure from the pcv system being clogged up. I dont have oil all over under the hood like some of the posts i was reading about having.

  4. #4

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    Just to update this i took it out while i had the intake off for head work and flushed it multiple times in a parts washer, painted it and put it back in.
    Looks clean as a whistle inside and i can actually see the filter in it now.
    The hose for it to the PCV valve is rock solid and really interferes with trying to get the distributor hold down bolt, i dont see anything looking for a replacement so im hoping to fit in a catch can between this and the PCV and run a softer hose that can move a bit when i need to get at it.

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