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  1. #26

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    I took the followers, lifters and camshaft out last night and found the #1 and #3 exhaust valve stem seals were messed up.

    Little hard to see #1 was ripped from its base




    And #3 looks like it was crushed and broken.



    I tried to get the valves out but i guess i need a different spring compressor because it wasnt happening with the universal ohv one i had.

    On the plus side this weekend ill head on back and get started cleaning the block and checking/chasing the bolt holes, two of the bolts had a lot of material on them when i pulled them out so i worry about them. Hopefully i wont have to put in a helicoil in them.

  2. #27

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    Stopped by for a little while to work on the mustang.
    Painted a few things since i didnt have much time, namely the water pump and oil cooler though i already painted the distributor hold down, air oil seperator and original thermostat housing the other day.





    Paint didnt stick to the oil cooler too good even after cleaning it beforehand and came off just putting it back in, better than it was i guess. Im not getting into painting the motor, maybe if it was out of the car but since its not forget that.
    Got almost everything there to get the head gasket job finished, now i just need to get started but i keep seeing stuff that fit the "better fix that now and not later" catagory.

    Onto other things, i tore down the old head and only found this on exhaust #3.






    I have no clue how that valve stem seal got like that, nothing on the cam, follower, spring and valve looks damaged. Exhaust #1 was also ripped up but no leaks into the combustion chamber like this one.
    I dont see any cracks anywhere but i havent cleaned it yet either, thats my next task.

  3. #28

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    Stopped by the ol' garage today to try and get something done to this mustang.
    Painted the new head with 2 coats and all the bolts that screw into it(im not sure if painting the bolt heads will look shnitzy, well see).







    Cleaned up the block surface some with one of those scouring pad disk things i picked up at harbor frieght. The blue ones(120grit i think) werent really cleaning it up at first and i didnt want to take any metal off so i tried to be light but i got tired of it, loaded on the brown pad and it cleaned it right up real quick.





    I want to put a straight edge on it just cause but i didnt have one there, doesnt feel distorted. Couldnt find my thread tap to finish chasing all the head bolt holes, just up and disappeared on me, so that was the end of my night since i want the paint to fully dry before handling the head and begin reassembling anything. I threw the lash adjusters into some oil to soak while i wait to start.
    Maybe if i feel up to it ill head back tomorrow and get some more done.
    Last edited by 1984GTTurboVert; 05-28-2023 at 08:15 PM.

  4. #29

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    Went to the garage to put the head on, it was boiling hot in there since it was hot out today but have to get this car running. Its almost there.

    Lubed the camshaft with assembly lube(just in the bearings and such for now, ill coat the lobes later) and installed it in the head with the lash adjusters and new cam seal. I forgot to remove the oil galley plug on the passenger side of the old head and put it in the new one, i have to stop by my other garage to pick that up.



    After chasing out the headbolt threads i blew them out with compressed air, gave it a final wipedown and threw the gasket on and put the head on.





    I dipped the six sided full thread tty headbolts into the cups of oil i had the lash adjusters in and got the torque wrench and torqued them down to 51lbs and gave them about a quarter turn on the second pass. I hate using an extension when i torque bolts but my deep socket was mia.
    Poured the leftover oil all over in the head afterwards just to get something on the parts since everything was bone dry, going to drain that out and put in the break in oil i got later this weekend.

    I pulled back out the oil cooler to attempt to repaint it again and replace the old hoses with nos new ones, they were for an svo i couldnt make out what the part number for the originals were, its definately different than the new ones.




    I started to put in the new thermostat and water pump in along with the timing cover, the cover is broke where the locating tab is for the cam sprocket but as luck would have it i have a plastic welder at home and just have to remember to grab it when i go back.





    I wish i could find nos or just oem versions of those short hoses to the tubes off the water pump and thermostat. At some point down the road im going to pull those tubes out and clean those up some, real eyesores under the hood.
    For some reason the new oil pressure sender i got doesnt "fit" in the area the old one did, its the correct part but i never matched it up with the old one so i have to grab it when i grab the oil galley plug.

    While im finishing this job im brainstorming replacing the bad a/c compressor on this car, i have another hr980 compressor for a v6 car which the only difference is it has the discharge line on the side where the pressure relief valve if i can find a hose that will reach i might have working a/c also after this headjob. Hoping.

  5. #30

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    Back at the garage last night putting the car back together.







    I finally got around to putting the fuel pressure gauge i picked up for it on.
    I pit some teflon on the threads for it even though it didnt require it since i have a big thing of it, gotta use it on something.
    I had a problem remembering with plug went to which sender, since they almost all reach each other and my book wasnt any help, figured it out with old pics i took when i first got the car.
    Ran into an issue with the return fuel line and fuel pressure regulator.
    The return line i couldnt get it hot enough to put the old connector onto it without burning it, i had nothing around to heat up some water enough for it and honestly i want to replace it with a new one but i have no idea what size it is, line is 5/16 but the connector is very small.
    The vacuum line for the fuel pressure regulator doesnt reach the new regulator, they were certain its the right one but its noticably shorter than the original so i need some hose for that now.
    Im going to pull the a/c compressor so i can reach the oil return line on the turbo easier, unless i just pull the whole thing back out. I need the compressor out so i can test it and see if its leaking at the seal or if its shot shot but my card trick wouldnt work on the springlocks. Oh well, bought some line disconnects and just waiting for them to come now.
    I have every tool needed to work on the hr980 compressor and im dieing to use them.
    After i get the fuel line and vacuum hose taken care of the rest of the car will be done in like an hour.
    Hopefully next weekend i can get the car running and break in the new cam.

  6. #31

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    Back at the 'ol garage, today was taking the a/c stuff out to work on the turbo... Again.

    I bought one of those springlock remover kits and wont fit on the compressor fittings, the area was too small for them to get in and onto the pipes. I didnt have a grinder to grind them down so that was a waste of 10 bucks.
    I just cut all the hoses to get the stuff out since i am replacing everything newcfor the a/c but the evaporator and compressor.

    Yoink.




    The springlocks were rock solid and fused on the condenser, wouldnt even spin after soaking them for a few hours.
    I managed to use a dremel to cut the fittings on the compressor so i could split them and remove them. Now i can finally replace the shaft seal and test the thing. Amazing that i couldnt find a single pic anywhere of someone replacing the seal so ill take some so the next guy trying to do this can see what they are doing.

    Ok, now that thats out of the way onto the turbo and return hose.
    Man, it was WAY easier to pull the turbo with the a/c stuff out of the way.




    The return line was bent up and leaking and the gasket was leaking bad since one of the screws wouldnt fully seat on it. Turns out the people who rebuilt it(Ford nos remanufactured) drilled out the broken screw in it but left the sleeve remains in the bottom when they retapped it so the new bolt wouldnt go more than half and stripped out the threads in the hole.
    Kinda thing that wouldve been nice to know before i put it in, but its my fault for not checking beforehand.




    I drilled it out and put a threadsert in there, no more issue now.
    Putting it back in was a pain and i still had to jack the car up but atleast i got to use both hands to do it this time. Checking around in my gasket sets one of them had a new exhaust doughnut for the turbo to downpipe so i chucked that on there while i was putting the turbo back on.




    The exhaust side of things is done now, i threw the new condenser and new radiator in so all i have to do is throw it back together, change the oil/filter and break it in.
    A few more hours worth of work.

  7. #32

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    Back at the garage finishing up the loose ends.

    Had to put the old fuel line connector back on since the replacement wouldnt seat fully.



    The old one is missing a barb from cutting it off, it didnt leak anything after i primed the system a few times, well see when it runs.

    After that i threw the i threw the followers back in the head with the rotunda valve tool i had to get since my pickle fork wouldnt work with the head and intake on. Washed everything down with assembly lube and put the valve cover, throttle and charge pipe back on.
    After that the motor is back together and started putting the timing belt, cover and pulleys back on. Go to put the water pump pulley on and... It wont fit.
    The new water pump i put on its shaft is too thick for the pulley to go on it.




    I dont know how i missed this before putting it on.
    Off comes the timing belt cover again.
    Thankfully its not the end of the world since there wasnt anything wrong with the old one and ill have to put it back in, i just changed it because it was cheap insurance. I cleaned up and painted the old one but none of the gasket sets had a pump gasket, i have an unused one at home ive had for years in some parts for my other mustang i no longer have so itll have to wait untill next time to go back in.



    Changed the oil to the break in stuff, i couldnt remember if the filter i changed while messing with the oil cooler, pretty sure i did. I have an old oil filter that came with the car that has to be atleast as old as the car itself has motorcraft all embossed on it. Its too fancy for me to put it on the car, ill put it on a shelf for display some day.
    Put a quick no tool drain plug on, not some cheap chinese blow your motor up from leaking all out one, if it works ill leave it on if not it goes with the break in oil.




    Took the radiator stuff back out and changed the rubber things on the brackets for ones in better shape. Radiator isnt all floppy now, the condenser i can live with.
    After i put the water pump back in its hoses and coolant, distributor stuff, put some fresh gas in it and fire it up.

  8. #33

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    Back at the garage today, was supposed to be the last time but the car decided otherwise.

    Put the whole thing back together, put the old waterpump back in, nos radiator hoses and chucked the radiator fan in temporarily with some wire to hold it since i couldnt find the bolts i grabbed for it. Threw the alternator back in and filled it up with coolant as much as i could before it runs.
    Took the battery off the charger and threw it in and went to fire it up... Knocking.
    Ran the wires wrong so i ran them right... Cranks but wont stay running without giving it gas and runs real bad.
    Pulled the alternator back out and took the timing cover off to verify timing. Lined up the timing marks and checked the distributor and was 180° out so pulled that out and rotated it and reinstalled it.
    So now the firing order is taken care of so all i have to do is set the timing and grabbed my gun and went to start it and got it close enough to stay running without the cover there to help. Finally got it running long enough to check it over.
    Smoked real bad under the hood by the turbo while running, im hoping its just burning stuff off again like when i first got it and replaced the original turbo.
    But then i see something on the camshaft sprocket and stopped the car and found this.





    It looks like oil is coming out from the camshaft sprocket hold down bolt and poolong onto the rim of the sprocket, mostly dry behind it and nothing behind the shield thing or around the cam seal.
    I thought it might coming from the front main or something but the belt and other stuff under the cover only has some traces of oil on it from letting it run while i was trying to figure it out.

    Is there any way this can happen? I didnt have my old cam there to check for any reference.

  9. #34

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    Cant edit my post, dont know whats the deal with that.

    Forgot to add that i replaced the 1/4" return line connector with a dorman replacement because the original i reinstalled leaked from the o rings when i ran the car.

  10. #35
    FEP Power Member ccurtin's Avatar
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    You need to thread seal the camshaft bolt that holds the sprocket. The cam is hollow and the oil is pressurized so it will force past the bolt without tape or sealant.
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    1984 Capri Turbo RS - Alive after 7 years! Build Thread
    2018 Mustang GT - daily driver

  11. #36

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    Weird there wasnt anything resembling sealant on the bolt when i took it off the old cam.
    Then again the new cam isnt oem, just oem spec and i only remember checking the back of the cam for anything.
    Thats what i get for working on this thing in piecemeal in my freetime and not all in one shot.
    Ill head back to the garage tomorrow and take it apart and clean out the timing cover and go over everything again, it was 112° in there while i was working on it so i wasnt in the mood to figure it out.

  12. #37

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    Went back today to fix the leak and get this thing running.
    Pulled out the bolt and cleaned the threads and hole and put some teflon tape and a thin film of goop on it for good measure since i got a can that will dry out before i use all of it.



    I pulled all the turbo outlet stuff back off and undid the oil feed line on it and gooped that all up too since there was oil there from the tape breaking down, Now there isnt.
    I pulled the throttle body off while i waited for the stuff to dry and changed the TPS sensor with a nos one i had and forgot to throw on while i had it off. Had a gasket with it the one on it didnt so i threw it on.



    Before i put the timing cover back on i double checked the timing and cleaned up what i could and put it back on.
    Pulled the battery off the charger and put it back in and grabbed the timing gun again.

    Fired right up and stayed running, FINALLY.
    Barely idled untill i twisted the distributor but got it to 10°btc and plugged the SPOUT back in. For some reason right after i got it where i needed it the timing mark on my crank sprocket wouldnt light up anymore under the gun, weird but whatever.
    After stinking up the place for an hour with all kinds of smoke from stuff burning off the exhaust and motor i checked for leaks, none. No smoke out the exhaust so im happy.
    Idle holds but sounds funny. Hard to describe but there is a faint noise like some worn bearing coming and going at idle, its not constant, off idle sounds fine and revs right up.

  13. #38

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    Its weird when i try to preview post or edit post the entire post disappears and i cant make changes or edits to it.



    Anyways, it runs now.
    Tested the radiator fan, works like its supposed and kept temps in check to thanks to new motor and nos fan controller.
    Let it cool down and checked the coolant level in the radiator, where it should be but its full of floating crud that was left in the system so im going to flush that out and call it a day on that.
    Runs good enough now so next week i need to move to the brakes and tires and make sure its good enough to drive and drive it.

  14. #39
    FEP Power Member ccurtin's Avatar
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    Congratulations!
    I'm an FEP Paid Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

    1984 Capri Turbo RS - Alive after 7 years! Build Thread
    2018 Mustang GT - daily driver

  15. #40

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    Took off work today to get some more work done.
    The current agenda, Brakes.

    Stopped by last weekend to replace the drum brakes but halfway thru the first one started feeling sick for some reason so i had to cut it short and chuck it back together and try again next week.
    So now today i got back at it.

    These are after i sprayed it down, couldnt tell what color anything was before.

    Driver.





    Passenger.





    Now maybe im crazy but i couldve sworn those springs were on the wrong sides, a quick search showed they were. I havent checked the service records lately but im pretty sure they have never been replaced before.
    Why would they do that on both wheels?
    Atleast nothing was seized and it all came apart without much drama.
    Putting it back together, some drama but theres always some. Thankfully i had two parts kits because some stuff from the first(springs) wasnt right.
    The rear wheel cylinders on both wheels had some kind of sludge draining from them on the primary sides, definately needed to go.
    I hate how youll spend 2 hours on the first one for some reason or another and like 20 minutes on the other side.



    I wish i had a helper to pump the brakes while i tried to bleed them, maybe ill have the shop do it when i take it to get it inspected. I didnt even bother to adjust them because i couldnt find my little flathead thing for that and the factory scissor jack suddenly decided to start stripping the threads on it. Never seen that happen before i didnt even have it up that high. Not safe anymore as far as im concerned so i have to grab another jack before anymore under car work. I have ramps but still need a jack.

    I was going to adjust the TPS since the car needs it but it was hot in the garage, even hotter under the hood and my fan wasnt much help so my night ends there, Maybe tomorrow.
    Last edited by 1984GTTurboVert; 07-27-2023 at 10:16 PM.

  16. #41

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    Quote Originally Posted by 1984GTTurboVert View Post
    I wish i had a helper to pump the brakes while i tried to bleed them.....
    Gravity brake bleeding is one method of single person bleeding that works. Just make sure the reservoir stays topped off.
    1985 Mustang GT (Mothballed...Desired restomod parts acquired...Top of my project list for my 2024 retirement!)

  17. #42

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    Quote Originally Posted by 85GTGuy View Post
    Gravity brake bleeding is one method of single person bleeding that works. Just make sure the reservoir stays topped off.
    Thats pretty much what i did, gravity bled till i saw new brake fluid and bled again with pumping the brakes to finish it. I need to get the car in the air to really go at it since the last time i worked on the fronts i was sitting against and underneath the car working on it in the other garage that is barely wide enough for it.

  18. #43

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    Went back to the garage today to finish a few things.

    First was adjusting the tps sensor, my voltmeter probes were to fat so i took some wire and stripped it about 2" back and shoved it into the plug when i plugged it back in. I checked and nobody was watching so its ok.
    Got it to hold at .99v tested the whole range and throttle snap but was shooting for .98v just wouldnt hold there when i tightened it up.
    Chucked the throttle back in and started it up and idles good, have to road test it but seems good.

    Second was getting under the car and putting in the bolts to the radiator fan in, pulled out the ramps and got it up on them.
    Glad i asked here about the bolt size for those before getting to that, install smooth as butter.
    While under there i tightened bolts from the 90° outlet to the downpipe because i had an exhaust leak there, sound has improved.
    I was peeking around under the motor and the power steering lines are bugging me with their condition.





    They arent leaking but looks like they will eventually, move around too much too my liking.

    Next on the list, replacing the burned out foglights.
    The rust on the passenger side one pretty much was the cause of it not working anymore.





    I replaced the bulbs anyway since i had them and i was in there but the hella brand h2 bulbs didnt fit properly, like at all actually, kinda rigged them in there for now. I just wanted them to work for now but ill come back and do them right.

    Now i backed the car off the ramps and backed it onto the ramps to move to the back and tackle replacing the fuel filter and inline fuel pump.
    Wish i had taller ramps but enough to do the job.
    Took the pump off and immediately noticed the holding bracket for it is rotted out to the point it could fail on the road, not good. The stems on the pump are crusted up and pulled out the plastic thing inside the fuel line with it. I replaced it with a new vane style pump that supposed to fit. It did, but after replacing the filter and putting it all back together i go to turn the key and... Nothing. No sound from either pump. Check the wires, on good and tight on the right terminals. Checked voltage, by my self i couldnt check during cranking but i was getting something. Checked the inertia switch, all good. Checked the relay, also good.
    Aggravated i crawl back under and pull the new pump back out, which no fuel came out the back so nothing was coming from the intank pump either then, and run it straight to the battery and... Nothing. Bad out of the box it seems. Welp that was a waste of money.
    I didnt want to drop the tank and see if the intank went(i do have a complete nos one with bracket im waiting to put in) and threw the old pump back in and after 10 seconds of cranking back up and running.
    Thats the third brand new non ford part that i got for this car that made things worse, the others were the tfi and the throttle solenoid.
    Lesson learned, oem or nos only from now on.

    Thats enough for me tonight, got to work on finding a replacement inline pump and bracket because thats a breakdown waiting to happen as far as im concerned, but atleast its running better now with the tps adjusted and the fuel filter replaced. Replacing the filter brought the fuel pressure up to 38 psi running so atleast something good came from this.

  19. #44

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    Back at the garage today, but only for a "little" fixin' this time.
    Just had to toss the interior back in there to make it presentable so i could take it out on the road for a drive and see whats good and whats not.
    I fixed a wire i found when i pulled the panels and seat out and had no idea what it went to on the passenger side since it looked like it never connected to anything, turns out it was the passenger rear speaker wire and there was no way it would reach the speaker as it was no matter how hard i pulled on it. Cut it and spliced in some extra to reach the speaker and all is good now. The top situation is still a mess but its nice out so ill figure it out later. Filled the tires to 32psi, topped off the oil and checked the coolant and brake fluid, started it up and went for a ride.





    On the road, the first thing i noticed is the brakes are still weak. I couldnt lock them up if i had to but they still stop the car and as long as im not driving up someones rear and they panic stop theyll do the job. No city driving for now they need to be bled properly and ill have whoever inspects it do it.
    After driving it for an hour i decide to put some gas in it since i only threw a few gallons in it while it was sitting and being worked on and ran it alot during that time, the gauge was past the last dash so under 1/4 tank. Go to fill it and only get about 5 more gallons in there, the tank was definately full and the gauge was at half the whole drive so new sender time. Easy and cheap and i have tank stuff to do anyway.
    Stopped to get something to eat real quick and started the car back up and was sorta hard to restart, still acting like its heat soaked tfi/pip(despite everything being new) for the first few seconds but clears up after a few seconds.
    This car is so hot under the hood after just a few minutes its crazy, you cant touch anything to mess with it i can fully understand why even the wires rot on them. That hood vent shouldve been functional from the factory because it needs it.
    Might be the idle air solenoid since its original, the new replacement i put on made the car run like crap but that might have been because of everything else going on with it back then. Its only an issue right at hot start up and not at the stop light or just idling or down the road so again ill figure it out later.
    The drive itself was very nice despite all that, good weather, perfect for top down actually and my route i take is a nice drive. The car itself gave me no real driving issues or funny noises. 3rd gear seems to take a second to find on the upshift but no drama in normal driving, might be me from driving modern stuff. Spent about 4 hours driving around before i brang it back to the garage for the night.

    Back at the garage i took a peek around under the car to check for leaks.




    No leaks at the pump but as you can see the cover has seen better days.
    The new carter pump i got was dead out of the box.



    All that rust is from the cover/holder thingy, its paper thin in the middle and alot was still stuck to the pad.
    Thankfully i snagged both pumps to replace them and the fuel sender when the time comes.



    Another weekend for that, but not now.

  20. #45
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    When my fuel pump failed, I went with a Bosch brand second pump. I was told it was OEM anyway. It does seem a bit noisy at least in the vert. I put all the original hardware back on.
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  21. #46

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    Quote Originally Posted by KevinK View Post
    When my fuel pump failed, I went with a Bosch brand second pump. I was told it was OEM anyway. It does seem a bit noisy at least in the vert. I put all the original hardware back on.
    Funny because i bought that carter pump because it said it was original oem. I mean i see alot of carter stuff being oem so i trusted it. When i pulled the old pump off i was greeted with a big old "Robert Bosch" on it and began to shake my head.



    The old pump i didnt take any pics of while i had it off(no electronics and such around when working on fuel stuff)but the numbers and such were the same as this nos one i got.

  22. #47

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    Was back at the garage yesterday to do some things.

    Trying to combat very high underhood temps i bought a set of radiator side delfectors, since they were missing and honestly the car looks like it never had them to begin with.




    The new reproduction ones fit right in with no issues at all.





    Hopefully they help, if not a lower air deflector from later foxes may be in order. Car isnt overheating but you cant even touch anything under the hood after its ran for a while. Cant be good for it.

    Now i tried to address replacing the idle air controller thing again by putting the new one on and it just runs awful with it, hangs on high idle(like 1200-1500rpms) bogs and almost stalls when you give it gas and idles like its misfiring bad. I am at a loss to why this is since the part is supposed to be the correct replacement one.



    The original one works fine but its 40 years old and cant last forever. I suspect its the reason for my hot restart issue(tfi and pip are both new) and dont want to get left on the roadside over it failing. I have a replacement tfi harness coming to fix the badly degraded wires going to it when that comes.

    So while i was there i took a good look at the aftermarket radio i picked up and said its now or never, so its now then.
    After a profanity laden period of time trying to figure out how to remove the original radio i got it out thru the drivers side by bending a bracket out of the way(removing those top bolts were not happening with my wrenches) and wiggled it out. Did they build these cars around the radio? Sure felt like it.
    I had the correct harness adapters for the radio wiring for an absolute no cutting solution so it was just a matter of connecting the wires correctly and finding a ground. I just connected everything with crimps for now but have solder fittings coming for a more secure connection.



    My dash speakers are shot and sound awful, but everything worked... Except the rear drivers speaker. Off comes the panel and i see the wire isnt plugged in, and i couldnt plug it in just wouldnt reach so i extended the wires enough to reach and still nothing out of it. Checked all the wires and everything seems properly connected on that end, my voltmeter probe wires werent long enough to check for continuity and i used the last of my wire to extent the plug.
    The connector plug on the speaker moves around side to side real bad.
    Im going to try some other stuff to figure that out if i get up and go back there tomorrow. I just got it running again and i got the interior pulled all apart now. Ugh.

  23. #48
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Try another speaker back there. Any small speaker should do.

  24. #49

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    I didnt have one laying around to try, the rear speakers i think are riveted in and it was getting late so ill try to swing the other panel over enough to plug it in and see if the speaker is shot. The wires seem fine but i didnt check continuity. I hope its not the radio, i like this one when its lit up.




    I thought these were supposed to have 5x7 or some oval speaker, i didnt measure it but it looks round. Ill take pictures next time.

  25. #50

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    Havent updated this in awhile.

    I replaced the radio and front speakers, the front speakers were oem nos ones.





    I tried to replace the idle air controller, again, this time with a nos ford one and no improvement over the original.



    This must be because of something im either doing or not doing because i cant see why its acting like this.
    While i was in the dash i replaced the bulbs with led ones.




    The top pic is a combination of bulbs to see the differences in them.
    The top is a dome style led, the turbo light is a standard 194 incandescent bulb and the bottom is a flat four diode led lamp which is what i went with for the warning lights since the others bled thru and changed the colors too much.
    Its hard to make out in the pic but in person the brightness is noticable as is the color difference in the main cluster lights. Went from a dull red to kinda orange looking. It is what it is.

    While playing with the new radio i peeked at the temp gauge and noticed it was pegged and i hear no fan running so that ended that fun. Tested the controller, works and wires are clean and not burned up looking. Tested the fan motor, works. Tested the wires going to them and full continuity. Tested the sensor and sure enough its bad. This was a nos part that had all of 5 hours on it and after pulling it out shaking it sounds like a blown light bulb.
    Bought a new one and its working now, hopefully no damage happened from that. I have like 6 new aftermarket fan controllers of various makes and styles in my garage but im too stubborn to use them here for originality sake.
    Its getting cold out now so time to start planning winter work on it.

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