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  1. #51

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    Stopped back at the garage today, pay the bill and such, so while i was there i got busy trying to use some of the new parts i have piled up laying around.

    First was the new 100 amp alternator i picked up to replace the old 60 amp one. It wasnt bad but i WAS planning on using a turbocoupe dual fan setup with a seperate controller, but after ruining the fan blades that were seized by rust trying to remove them off of it even after weeks of soaking it im not going that way anymore. Now im just going to use the OEM fan with a seperate controller for it since the factory one works when it wants to, which is never and im tired of the car puking its guts up.



    I had to use a puller to remove the pulley off the old alternator, was really stuck on there. The new alternator i had to rotate/clock it but that wasnt anything to write home about.





    I used the new nos alternator harness i had but the other side of the connector has seen better days. I have a new nos voltage regulator i keep in the trunk but the current one works so ill leave it alone.



    My amp output measurement test failed right at the start since my new analyzer wouldnt work at all, but thankfully my multimeter does. Its putting out a solid 14.35 volts at idle and with everything i could possibly turn on it only dropped to 14.27. Ammeter never moved, never has and ive never seen one move ever on a ford with one. Wasted space wish i had a boost gauge there instead.
    Satisfied with this for now, will address the harness connector thing next time with a backup i have laying around.

    On to the next thing, the shifter.
    The shifter has been on my fix it right list for over a year now. I replaced it when i got the car with one of those crap short shifters on ebay and when i finally drove the car i could barely shift it into gear so i cobbled the one it came with back together and had to rotate it so i could put a spacer in to move it away from my leg. Today i got the parts to fix it so i did.

    The old one.



    The new one.



    The new one is an 87 shifter base and a 95 shifter handle, i also used a brass shifter bushing which fit right in a little too well. I wanted to keep the one it came with but the shifter handle wouldnt fit into the isolator parts, the bolt holes were much smaller on the older shifter handle and the rubber wouldnt fit thru them at all so i had to use the later one. My premade reusable gasket for the shifter base was a total waste of money, total junk and no amount of trimming wouldve made it work. Just globbed the black stuff around before mounting it. Feels alot better playing with it, Satisfied with that for now.

    Things that need attention, the battery tray. Trying to take it out to clean up the mess the coolant made it was a mess taking it out thanks to the lowest bolt and the battery hold down bolt is all blown out so ill just replace the whole thing. Cheap enough.

    And... Grounds. From what i read there is "supposed" to be a ground strap on the motor and i never saw one and have no clue where it wouldve been. I have a bunch of ground straps but i have no idea where to put them.
    Ideas?
    Last edited by 1984GTTurboVert; 12-30-2023 at 12:49 AM.

  2. #52
    FEP Power Member ccurtin's Avatar
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    Great progress. My ground strap is from the firewall, just to the right of the AC mount, to the bellhousing bolt (whichever is easier to reach. I've seen them on the top passenger bolt, or the next one down on the passenger side.)
    I'm an FEP Paid Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

    1984 Capri Turbo RS - Alive after 7 years! Build Thread
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  3. #53

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    Quote Originally Posted by ccurtin View Post
    Great progress. My ground strap is from the firewall, just to the right of the AC mount, to the bellhousing bolt (whichever is easier to reach. I've seen them on the top passenger bolt, or the next one down on the passenger side.)
    You wouldnt happen to have a pic of it?

    Edit: Nevermind i must be blind, found it in the back while going over some of my pics.



    That ok, got a bunch to add anyway.
    Last edited by 1984GTTurboVert; 12-30-2023 at 11:40 PM.

  4. #54

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    Stopped at the garage today to replace the battery tray with the reproduction kit one i picked up.



    Old one.



    New one.



    The clips contained in the kit are the same, the clips they are replacing arent however as the battery hold down one is clearly meant for something thicker than the sheetmetal holding down the tray. This makes the battery hold down bolt angled on install, but it wasnt as deep as the original one and the battery isnt fully secured in place. Ill see how that pans out before i start bending stuff.
    Also didnt contain the little rubber thing on the longer tray hold down bolt, i reused mine, others might not be able to.

    Im waiting for some waterpump gaskets to replace the old water pump with the correct one and the thermostat with a 180° one since ill have the coolant drained. Im still dragging my feet on installing an aftermarket fan controller because i feel like if i tinker with it ill get it working properly. If i cant before i start draining coolant for the other stuff then its getting done with them.

  5. #55

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    Stopped by today to recheck the battery tray situation, very disappointed.
    I took the bolt out to get the hold down out only for it to strip on the way out. Not using power tools here but come on now.







    Cheap junk hardware had to reuse my old hold down, bolt and clip. The hold down itself has a different shape than the original so it likely never wouldve held the stock battery down(bx-56).
    Anyone picking up one of these daniel carpenter repro battery tray kits dont both with the hardware, its junk.

    After that i pulled the bolts off the waterpump pulley to see if the other fan bolt spacer i had would fit... It dont, at all.




    I picked it up for a v6 car anyway so thats what itll go on. Was just curious about it.

    Poking around under the dash to try and figure out this fan not working thing im just stumped.



    I traced every wire to their ends, tested for any breaks in them and all passed, cleaned every contact and ground point in the whole system and still not working on its own. New different controllers and still no workey. Tested the controllers themselves on a table with power and they work no problem, im going to pick up another brand of fan switch and try setting up something on a table to troubleshoot this. I have everything to just bypass this whole mess with a better trouble free aftermarket setup, but i want to know what im not figuring out here. I dont care if im being stubborn.
    Last edited by 1984GTTurboVert; 01-22-2024 at 07:35 PM.

  6. #56

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    Quote Originally Posted by 1984GTTurboVert View Post
    Cheap junk hardware had to reuse my old hold down, bolt and clip. The hold down itself has a different shape than the original so it likely never wouldve held the stock battery down(bx-56).
    Anyone picking up one of these daniel carpenter repro battery tray kits dont both with the hardware, its junk.
    Well that's disappointing to hear. I'm not sure anybody else even makes the battery tray.

    The hold downs look pretty similar.... what part of it doesn't work?
    1985 Mustang GT (Mothballed...Desired restomod parts acquired...Top of my project list for my 2024 retirement!)

  7. #57

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    Quote Originally Posted by 85GTGuy View Post
    Well that's disappointing to hear. I'm not sure anybody else even makes the battery tray.

    The hold downs look pretty similar.... what part of it doesn't work?
    The battery tray itself fit fine and was comparable to the original sans part numbers. No issues with the tray itself, the hardware for it(bolts and clips) arent oem strong and the clip for the battery holdown isnt even close to right for it. I deal with fastners all day everyday that are removed multiple times to perform service on equipment and these wouldnt make it onto anything at my job. Im on vacation technically so when i get back im going to see what we got there i can use here.

    Its hard to really see in the pic(around the center of the pic of them side by side)and without holding them both infront of you but the new reproduction one the part where it bends down and shallower differently than the original. Where the hold down bolt actually sits on the hold down you can see how flat the area is on the original compared to the reproduction on.
    It "might" have still fit if you had the proper hold down clip on the battery tray to keep it flush but because it doesnt it sits even further back and doesnt rest on the battery when installed.
    Last edited by 1984GTTurboVert; 01-22-2024 at 11:29 PM.

  8. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1984GTTurboVert View Post
    I took the bolt out to get the hold down out only for it to strip on the way out.


    Sad the quality lacks on such a key part. Such a bad feeling once you know its galled and you're fighting it all the way.

    NPD sells the replacement kits. Not sure where you picked up this tray and if this is the same or not.

    I've had my eye on a NOW early 79 battery tray on eBay for a couple of years it seems (D8XX part number) but they want extortion money for it it seems.

    https://www.npdlink.com/product/batt...1979&year=1979
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  9. #59

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    Quote Originally Posted by 82GTforME View Post
    Sad the quality lacks on such a key part. Such a bad feeling once you know its galled and you're fighting it all the way.

    NPD sells the replacement kits. Not sure where you picked up this tray and if this is the same or not.

    I've had my eye on a NOW early 79 battery tray on eBay for a couple of years it seems (D8XX part number) but they want extortion money for it it seems.

    https://www.npdlink.com/product/batt...1979&year=1979
    I got it on ebay, but everybody is probably getting it from the same source.
    That npd kit looks just like the hardware that came with it other than the hold down bolt. Those "clips" will not fit on the battery tray properly.
    Example below.



    Edit: upon further inspection i see that npd kit DOESNT contain the hold down bolt. That is seperate with the hold down itself.
    And, searching around the battery tray there has TWO holes to hold it down on the frame with notations about 86 only needing one. Mine, an 84, definately didnt have another hole for a second tray hold down bolt.
    Hmm...
    Last edited by 1984GTTurboVert; 01-24-2024 at 02:11 AM.

  10. #60

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    Took off work and stopped by the garage today to get some things finished.
    On the agenda was replacing the waterpump and thermostat, followed by the cooling fan switch and finally the fan controller.



    The waterpump i wanted to replace with the correct pump for it, the old one was a parts store thing and i want the "correct" part in it. The thermostat i wanted to put in one with a lower opening temperature to keep temps down. The cooling fan switch im replacing because the fan dont work like its supposta and since i have the coolant drained out im making sure this aint the problem there, the one before this died the day after install.
    So, drained the coolant with my extractor which is nicer than pulling the plug and hoping it all drains in a pan. Removed the old waterpump and thermostat, cleaned up the surfaces and thankfully had just enough gasket sealer to make it for both. I bought a 5 pack of thermostat gaskets awhile ago and unfortunately they are broken in pieces in the pack but i had one left in there that wasnt, thankfully.





    After putting it back together and waiting for the sealer to set i pulled the cooling fan switch and put in the new one. Unlike the last time i tested this new one multiple times at work so i know its good. I took the old one to test that but my torch heated it up way too fast and it exploded before i could find out if it was bad, Oh well.
    After throwing some coolant back into it i went back to check the fan switch wire at the controller before running it. Pulled out the wires at the controller plug and ohmed it for breaks, none still, so replaced the controller with another one out of my pile of nos ones i accumulated for an experiment. After all that i started it up and let it run to see if the fan finally works.
    While waiting for the air to get out of the system and get up to temp i pulled out my new multimeter and tested the current from the alternator and see what its putting out.



    Thats at idle with just the corner and dash lights on, at the battery it was seeing about 12 amps on the negative cable.
    So after satisfying my curiousity there i moved back on to the fan stuff.
    Waiting for the fan to come on and once again maxed out still nothing.
    Pulled the new controller and put in a different new one. Same results.
    So i then reinstalled the ac compressor in the car and plugged the clutch wire back in and "jumpered" the pressure switch plug with a piece of wire and some tape, the pressure switch wont let the fan come on when the selector is moved to get a/c if the refrigerant pressure is too low.



    Cooling fan now works when the selector moves to the normal/max a/c and defrost settings so i know the fan controller is definately working. And sure enough the fan starts coming on by itself with the temperature like its supposed to.
    Finally.
    Ran it for over an hour and didnt have to scramble to rig the fan to cool it back down. The final final test is to see if itll work the next time im there.

    So now need to get off my rear and get this a/c back up and running, have everything to replace the compressor seal and clutch on the compressor just need to do it.
    Stuff that need fixing still is the top, i have a places number to call to get that looked at and the brakes still need to be bled.

  11. #61
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Default nuts can drive one nuts

    Spring type tension band hose clamps work as well as worm drive and look better keeping even tension on hoses.
    Much less water pressure compared to house water supply or oil pressure connections.
    Any good hardware store has them. Different color codes for each size range or anti-rust coated silver or black.
    At first they get watched like a hawk for leaks until trusted since there is no adjustment for tightness.
    They cost much less but cost is not a factor making a cooling system leak free.

    Never liked the pinching and gouging of hose rubber not knowing how tight to go. Sort of like the untrimmed zip tie look.
    The worm screw eventually gets surface rust looking old. Added fact clamps are made with different socket sizes.
    Small 1/4" drive. Screwdrivers can slip off to poke whatever bare fingers are holding the hose clamp in position.

    Wider gap extruded u-nut looks like a body clip nut.
    Small thin panel u-nut is for screws. Larger thicker extruded u-nut or u-nut w/caged/welded nut is for bolts.
    Tray would crack at the hold down bolt hole without any metal to grab the bolt.
    Those included fasteners thickness gap look to be 1/2 as wide as they need to be. Wrong app was picked for them.
    Could get couple u-nuts of correct thickness and trim off the flat end like the old one.

    Car here has the plate style battery hold down, truck has a plastic wedge. Whatever works.
    So many times had to fight with a corroded fastener and funky socket fit, changed the truck's bolt to a ss j-hook, washers, top nut.
    Will never have to get sawed off. A threaded j-hook allows loosening the hold down to clear battery without total removal.
    Or if need be, rotate and unhook j-hook with hold down from tray.

  12. #62

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    I picked up these worm clamps for 20 bucks, they are oem ford ones for later gt mustangs iirc and there was enough to do all the hoses with them. I agree about the spring clamps just from an aesthetic standpoint(i hate all the extra band sticking out) and if i couldve found a complete original ford set of them back when i was picking up these parts 2 sum years ago i wouldve, but at that price i aint complaining. Maybe next year.

  13. #63
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    i hear ya go with what works out best.
    Some use tower screw style clamps. Clean looking and not that easy to work with.
    Worm drive band ends usually tuck in ok if not bent out any. Could always snip them shorter.

    Went out and checked the car and truck coolant clamps here to refresh memory.

    Both types in use. SS screw band clamps on three of four rad hose ends. Much easier to work with in tight spots.
    One is a upper hose factory spring clamp. With wide open access ez to put a squeeze on with pliers.
    Heater and vac hoses also have wire or strip steel spring clamps.

    Bought a few sizes of fractional inch spring clamps and worm type at hw store to have on hand.
    Worm clamps ok on small dia hose, like for low pressure fuel. Big plus they come apart to get on/off, have a size stamp.

    Extra worm clamps, box, gear wrenches, store nicely in on medium size d-ring shaped snap clips like keys on a key ring.
    Right angle needle nose pliers squeeze and hold small spring clamps well, Channellocks on larger.

  14. #64

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    Stopped back at the garage again since i was in the neighborhood.
    Put it on ramps to change the oil and run it to see if the cooling fan was still working. A dicey proposition since the handbrake still doesnt work.



    Finally got to try out the quick drain fitting and hose thingy.




    Nice and no mess draining into the pan, wasnt sure about keeping the quick drain thing on but ill leave it.
    Since i was down there i decided to check the downpipe to turbo connection since i could clearly hear an exhaust leak around the area and assumed it was the doughnut shifted but what i found was even worse, the bolts backed out and one fell off entirely. Luckily it didnt make it far and was on the k frame there so i reinstalled them and made them tight so hopefully that dont happen again.
    Back to the oil change i finally get to drain that royal purple break in stuff out and replace it with the full synthetic i use in it.




    5 quarts later off the ramps and running it to see if the cooling fan comes on.
    Runs up the temp gauge to L and it kicks on like its supposed to.
    I have a bunch of literature and stuff on this cooling fan i want to put up in a thread here so others here can troubleshoot their factory fans properly if they want to keep them, just trying to figure out a proper way to go about it.

  15. #65

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    Quote Originally Posted by gr79 View Post
    i hear ya go with what works out best.
    Some use tower screw style clamps. Clean looking and not that easy to work with.
    Worm drive band ends usually tuck in ok if not bent out any. Could always snip them shorter.

    Went out and checked the car and truck coolant clamps here to refresh memory.

    Both types in use. SS screw band clamps on three of four rad hose ends. Much easier to work with in tight spots.
    One is a upper hose factory spring clamp. With wide open access ez to put a squeeze on with pliers.
    Heater and vac hoses also have wire or strip steel spring clamps.

    Bought a few sizes of fractional inch spring clamps and worm type at hw store to have on hand.
    Worm clamps ok on small dia hose, like for low pressure fuel. Big plus they come apart to get on/off, have a size stamp.

    Extra worm clamps, box, gear wrenches, store nicely in on medium size d-ring shaped snap clips like keys on a key ring.
    Right angle needle nose pliers squeeze and hold small spring clamps well, Channellocks on larger.
    Im just going to replace them proper at some point so im not going to snip them since they are still fully functional and might come in handy on some other car. When i do im also going to pick up that tool for spring clamps since i always wanted one for those.

  16. #66
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    What's the benefit of running the diesel oil? Is that a common thing these days?
    '86 GT - weekend driver
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  17. #67

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    I don't run it mine, nor will I start an oil debate, but....anecdotally it's a pretty popular thing for Subaru folks to run if they have turbo motors. I believe it's because of the detergents and keeping the turbo bearings happy because it has a little bit more zinc in it.
    Last edited by ITdude87; 02-10-2024 at 09:51 AM.
    1986 Mustang GT - 2A, 5 Sp
    2018 Subaru WRX (Daily)

  18. #68

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    Quote Originally Posted by ZEN50 View Post
    What's the benefit of running the diesel oil? Is that a common thing these days?
    When they took the zddp out of conventional oil it became pretty common to do this on older cars, now that additives and specialty oils are available everywhere not so common.

    Quote Originally Posted by ITdude87 View Post
    I don't run it mine, nor will I start an oil debate, but....anecdotally it's a pretty popular thing for Subaru folks to run if they have turbo motors. I believe it's because of the detergents and keeping the turbo bearings happy because it has a little bit more zinc in it.
    I chose this specific oil because they stopped making the conventional oil i used to use in my fox cars that had zddp in it, its a motorcraft product and it has the highest zinc for an off the shelf full synthetic and a bunch of other features as it was specifically designed for the diesel 3.0 in the f150.
    Its good oil but its expensive, but the car isnt an everyday driver so im ok with spoiling it some.
    The ristlone additive is just extra insurance since its a new camshaft, valvetain and head and its the first oil change out of the break in oil.
    Last edited by 1984GTTurboVert; 02-10-2024 at 01:51 PM.

  19. #69
    FEP Senior Member cb650's Avatar
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    flat tappet cams need the zink in diesel oils that was comen in older oils. Roller cams dont need it so all the oil manufactures dont use it as much. Many stories of new oils wiping out a older cam lobe. Same issue went up 25 years ago with jap bikes needing it for the married transmissions.

  20. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1984GTTurboVert View Post
    When they took the zddp out of conventional oil it became pretty common to do this on older cars, now that additives and specialty oils are available everywhere not so common.



    I chose this specific oil because they stopped making the conventional oil i used to use in my fox cars that had zddp in it, its a motorcraft product and it has the highest zinc for an off the shelf full synthetic and a bunch of other features as it was specifically designed for the diesel 3.0 in the f150.
    Its good oil but its expensive, but the car isnt an everyday driver so im ok with spoiling it some.
    The ristlone additive is just extra insurance since its a new camshaft, valvetain and head and its the first oil change out of the break in oil.
    I have been using Motorcraft conventional 5W30 in our 79 2.8 V6 with a bottle of zinc additive for every oil change since we rebuilt it and no issues. Our other 79 with the 5.0 is planned to be rebuild with the stock valve train and I will do the same for it. I get the additive at the local parts store and have seen a few different brands out there. At one time Crane Cams had a "break in" additive for flat tappet cams but it's no longer available as they got bought out I believe.

  21. #71

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    Quote Originally Posted by 82GTforME View Post
    I have been using Motorcraft conventional 5W30 in our 79 2.8 V6 with a bottle of zinc additive for every oil change since we rebuilt it and no issues. Our other 79 with the 5.0 is planned to be rebuild with the stock valve train and I will do the same for it. I get the additive at the local parts store and have seen a few different brands out there. At one time Crane Cams had a "break in" additive for flat tappet cams but it's no longer available as they got bought out I believe.
    I havent seen conventional motorcraft on the shelf anywhere around here in many years, always just that semi synthetic stuff.

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