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Thread: no crank

  1. #1

    Default no crank

    So while trying to solve the car's ac problems these past four years, now the thing won't even crank. I replaced the relay and nothing. I had the starter rebuilt and nothing. I turn the key and the fuel pump runs but just one click under the hood. The battery has 12.8 volts. I did nothing to the engine while working on the ac. (There is a thread for that one). All wiring looks good and connected. I didn't remove any. I replaced the ignition switch maybe two years ago and only put a few thousand miles on the car.
    Any ideas? I'm very tired of working on this car. Every year something breaks in the driveway and I'm out money and time.
    I know check for spark and fuel. Any hints that save me effort are most welcome.
    Well it will snow soon so might as well just cover it up. Sheesh.
    Time for beer.
    Thanks all.

  2. #2

    Default

    My 78 did the same thing and I thought my connections all looked great too.
    I disconnected all the battery to car wiring (battery to relay and battery to starter) and replaced it with the wiring from my other 78.
    It fired right up. I put the original wiring on the donor car and that one fired right up as well.
    I would disconnect all places it is attached to the car and then reattach the wiring.
    Lots of FREE F/Z info on my site.
    http://myzephyrs.com

  3. #3

    Default

    Is it stock? Is it TFI?

    Have you grabbed a screw driver and jumped the solenoid?
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear.
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  4. #4

    Default

    Ahh, just went back to your ac thread. It's an 86 so I suspect you still have TFI. I doubt this is it, but if the TFI .module gets screwed up, you can't turn the motor over. At least on mine. It's really weird but it's a thing. Check your connections to the TFI and if you have an extra maybe try it.
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear.
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  5. #5
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Lowell, Oregon
    Posts
    1,959

    Default

    Just because a battery has high enough voltage does not mean it has the power to start the car. Have the battery load tested. It's free at most places

    Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! 9.5:1 .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads, 268 cam, T5, 8.8 with 3.55, plus all the stiffening goodies, all control arms, lowered, alum shaft, x-pipe with Outlaws, FiTech FI system...

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  6. #6

    Default

    Found the problem. I suspected the ignition switch and wanted to test it. Upon disassembly the thing basically fell apart. Not broken but in three pieces now. After I removed the harness, the metal part of the switch was now off the column. Then the black contact mechanism fell out as did a small ball bearing. Yikes. The contacts need cleaned but other wise it should go back together if I can do that. I couldn't check all the terminals as per the shop manual as I didn't want to move the lock cylinder at this point. I'll add the metal part of the switch was slightly loose so I'd say I lost good contact in there and that created the no crank problem. I still can't upload photos for some reason but if anyone has been in that area you might know what it looks like. And if someone could advise me as to how this goes back together, I might has a functioning car soon. Thanks all.
    Cheers.

  7. #7
    FEP Power Member mcb82gt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Olathe, Kansas
    Posts
    2,060

    Default

    just replace that switch. its a know failure point and a FIRE hazard!
    Mike

    Now stang-less.

    88 Cougar 5.0

  8. #8

    Default

    Replacement is on the way. I had to remove the part of the switch that was screwed onto the column. I used the trick in an older post about grinding a slot in those tiny bolts then using a screwdriver to remove them. So now I need two bolts but shall get them today. Hopefully by next weekend I'll be mobile again.
    Thanks all.

  9. #9

    Default

    Surprisingly, the new switch arrived this morning. So I replaced it and tried again and the same result. No start just a loud click that should be the relay. I replaced the relay with the old one just to check but no start. No crank. New starter, new relay, new switch, and nothing. I'm lost now and running out of patience. Maybe wiring went bad just sitting in the carport? Maybe the car is junk? Guess I have to crawl under the thing again. Oh well.

  10. #10

    Default

    Check your battery and connections, as mentioned.

    It could be a corroded connection, or you just need a little more juice to get it to start (Jumper it or stick it on a charger). You're energizing the relay, but there isn't enough oomph to get it to turn over.
    83 TC "Clone"
    85 Marquis LTS

  11. #11

    Default

    Grab the old screw driver and jump the solenoid. Start at the starter. If you send 12 to that and it doesn't move you know that is where the issue is. Then start moving back. you were messing with the ac. That is on top of the harness to the TFI. Check on it.
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear.
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  12. #12

    Default

    I tried again this morning and same results. I checked continuity of the red with blue stripe wire at the small terminal on the relay. I had no continuity anywhere along the wire. I pulled apart the one connector in the line and nothing. But somehow the relay still clunks when I turn the key. Don't get it. All wiring is connected and the terminals and connections are clean and good. I double check them and the battery as well. Only other component is the clutch safety switch and I can't get under the dash to even see the thing. Not sure how I would test it or replace it. Last resort is to jump the battery with my daily driver. I still think this car has had it. Too much money and too little miles. Time to put it away for the winter.

  13. #13

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Magnetic82 View Post
    Surprisingly, the new switch arrived this morning. So I replaced it and tried again and the same result. No start just a loud click that should be the relay. I replaced the relay with the old one just to check but no start. No crank. New starter, new relay, new switch, and nothing. I'm lost now and running out of patience. Maybe wiring went bad just sitting in the carport? Maybe the car is junk? Guess I have to crawl under the thing again. Oh well.
    My buddy just had pretty much the same issues on his 5.0(a later one)and replaced some of the same things and it wound up being the capacitors in his ecu leaked out and ruined it.
    This all started after he changed his tfi module with an accel brand one, then the ignition switch burned up, the parts store replacement fell apart after the first turn and replaced many starting circut related relays.
    Not fun spending all summer driving season figuring that out.

  14. #14

    Default

    Just tried to jump the battery and no start no crank. The new clutch switch arrives maybe Wednesday so that's my last guess. Tracing cicuits isn't my thing; I find the EVTM often confusing. Not sure how the clutch switch circuit runs or the red wire with the blue stripe at the relay. Maybe another wire? Maybe the car finally died? I'll try the clutch switch but don't have much confidence that will tell me anything. Junk.

  15. #15

    Default

    I don't understand why you haven't tried sending 12v straight to the starter. You need to work back from the starter.
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear.
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  16. #16

    Default

    The starter was just rebuilt so I'm hoping its good. Today I decided to try once more (why not) and see if the clutch switch might be on the fritz. I managed to pull two connectors off the switch. The EVTM only shows one connector and two wires. I now have two connectors and four wires. The white connector has a gray with yellow stripe wire and a black with white stripe wire. I checked continuity between the ignition switch harness for pin 33 and the gray wire and its good. Not sure why the black connector has two wires, both red with blue stripe. I'd guess one goes to the relay and the other to the TFI module? Might head back out to check but since the other components are good, I wanted to check out the clutch switch. Its rather loose on the bracket as well. I know from time to time the diagrams are off but this confuses me. Oh well. Shall keep trying.

  17. #17

    Default

    You say you're getting a loud click when you turn the key. If that's the case it should crank...unless the battery is pooched.

    Have someone verify (or turn the key while you verify) that the starter solenoid is indeed clicking when you turn the key. If it is, don't worry about the clutch switch as if that was the problem, you'd have no action at the solenoid.

    Also, as has been mentioned above to remove all of the other nonsense from the equation, just jump the solenoid terminals to see if THAT spins the starter.

    If not, then your battery or starter is suspect.
    83 TC "Clone"
    85 Marquis LTS

  18. #18

    Default

    My first thought here is a bad ground at the solenoid. Again, just jump the darn thing and you will know.
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear.
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  19. #19
    FEP Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    south-central WY
    Posts
    248

    Default

    +1 Please, please do this.
    Should get a big spark when you do.

  20. #20

    Default

    Tried to jump the car the other week and no luck. I put the clutch safety switch items back together as I decided to chance that those weren't the culprit. I pulled all the cables off their connections and bingo- the starter cable was fine but not the two battery cables. So I ordered some replacements for all the cables from LMR and just finished putting them on. Car fired right up and even managed to take a short spin. Finally mobile again, after about four weeks of not being. I know- should have checked them first. But how often do cables go bad. Speaking of them, the Chinese replacements look decent but are not quite correct. Of course. I had to drill out the hole in the starter end of the starter cable to make the US bolt fit and snug up. The new cable was supplied with a metric junker that came out of the package rusted. Plus the length was slightly off as was the rigid tube for underneath and near the front engine cover area. I also skipped the bracket for the negative battery cable ground at the block because it just wasn't even close. But other than those, it works fine and the cables even look factory. Live and learn. Cheers all.

  21. #21

    Default

    Happy to hear it was cables. Now you can just keep your eye out for better cables and drive the car.
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear.
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

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