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  1. #1
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Default Sound system wiring questions

    Hey guys, so finally after waiting for about 6months I finally got my Kenwood Bluetooth amp that I’m going to use for my sound system in my 84. I’m going to run the 2 6x7 in the rear along with the 2 3.5 in the dash. Eventually I will add another small amp and run a 8” sub for some extra bass. Should sound alright and I don’t have to cut up my original dash that’s in great shape. Anyways, I have the speaker wire( rears) and power wire ran already but will need to run the remote turn on for the amp somewhere. What would be best place to tap into? Can I run it to my original amp pull switch so when I pull it it turns the amp on? If so what wire do I hook to on the switch?

    Second question is I need to fish some speaker wire up through my dash to wire in the 3.5’s Does not look easy to do and I’m a little intimidated lol. Is there anybody here that has done this and could offer some tips or pointers?
    Mustangs
    84.5 Gt T-top
    85 Gt

  2. #2
    FEP Power Member
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    Just remove the dash pad. You should see the front speaker wires come up by the A pillar.
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  3. #3
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KevinK View Post
    Just remove the dash pad. You should see the front speaker wires come up by the A pillar.
    Ok, I seem to remember looking when I had the pad off and hooked up new 3.5’s to the factory speakers wires. Didn’t seem them but I will look again.
    Mustangs
    84.5 Gt T-top
    85 Gt

  4. #4
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Front speakers
    Remove dash pad for access
    I use a right angle screwdriver to remove the front speaker screws.
    They are close to the windshield.
    Fish new wire down, not up! Cant catch fish that way.
    Route drivers side wire across bottom of dash or somewhere where it wont hang or interfere with pedals, etc.
    Factory speaker harness and connectors can be left unconnected in place.
    I used spare pigtails or regular and mini spade connectors to connect new wires to speakers.

    Premium Amp switch
    Amp power can be controlled with it. Simple to do. Mine has screw terminals. Amp to one, power to the other.
    Use stock ACC/KO power feed to switch. Can leave amp switch on or push in to cut amp power at any time.
    Wiring the amp on light to the power terminal insures amp(s) are off so as not to drain battery.
    Changed out burnt out bulb to a amber LED. Very bright but steering column blocks it from drivers seat position.

    I added a second eight circuit ATO/ATC 12v blade fuse block for modern accessories. 12v power points, radio and amp.
    Takes the added loads off the main box. Safe and easy way to add new 12v circuits to old cars.
    The aux fuse box is mounted behind the glove box bin. Bin is easily removed for access.
    Fuse box on/ off power is controlled via standard 12v relay (with pigtail). Terminal 86 is connected to dash acc/ko power.
    Relay is fed high power from battery via 30a maxifuse to terminal 30. Terminal 87 to fuse box stud. 85 is ground.
    Setup was low cost and works great.
    Also added a 12 screw terminal ground bar nearby for all the extra ground wires. Good grounds are important.

    A four channel amp sure adds a lot of wiring. Helps to clearly code, label, tag, new wires for sure.
    Draw a new wire diagram save for future reference.
    Last edited by gr79; 09-12-2022 at 04:02 PM.

  5. #5
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gr79 View Post
    Front speakers
    Remove dash pad for access
    I use a right angle screwdriver to remove the front speaker screws.
    They are close to the windshield.
    Fish new wire down, not up! Cant catch fish that way.
    Route drivers side wire across bottom of dash or somewhere where it wont hang or interfere with pedals, etc.
    Factory speaker harness and connectors can be left unconnected in place.
    I used spare pigtails or regular and mini spade connectors to connect new wires to speakers.

    Premium Amp switch
    Amp power can be controlled with it. Simple to do. Mine has screw terminals. Amp to one, power to the other.
    Use stock ACC/KO power feed to switch. Can leave amp switch on or push in to cut amp power at any time.
    Wiring the amp on light to the power terminal insures amp(s) are off so as not to drain battery.
    Changed out burnt out bulb to a amber LED. Very bright but steering column blocks it from drivers seat position.

    I added a second eight circuit ATO/ATC 12v blade fuse block for modern accessories. 12v power points, radio and amp.
    Takes the added loads off the main box. Safe and easy way to add new 12v circuits to old cars.
    The aux fuse box is mounted behind the glove box bin. Bin is easily removed for access.
    Fuse box on/ off power is controlled via standard 12v relay (with pigtail). Terminal 86 is connected to dash acc/ko power.
    Relay is fed high power from battery via 30a maxifuse to terminal 30. Terminal 87 to fuse box stud. 85 is ground.
    Setup was low cost and works great.
    Also added a 12 screw terminal ground bar nearby for all the extra ground wires. Good grounds are important.

    A four channel amp sure adds a lot of wiring. Helps to clearly code, label, tag, new wires for sure.
    Draw a new wire diagram save for future reference.
    Wow thanks, I also bought a add a fuse so I could always tap into the radio fuse for the power also. It be kind of nice though to have it wired to the amp switch though. Still not really sure which wire I need to tap into on the switch though. Looking at it from underneath dash it looks like 2 black wires coming out of it.
    Mustangs
    84.5 Gt T-top
    85 Gt

  6. #6
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Am using factory Ford radios with matching spare harness connected directly to amp.
    When i get radios from the pic a part yards, i cut the radio connector harness and buy that too.
    Same with factory speakers. Have Ford JBL/Mach in the Ranger's doors and rear of car.

    Over 40 years, have added extra wires under my dash cannot tell what some of them do anymore.
    Used what ever color wire that was handy- black yellow green. different gauges.

    Never had the factory Premium sound option in my car.
    I added the switch and light later on. Looks better that a regular toggle switch.
    Wired it according to my desire to switch a four channel amp on and off manually.
    The radio audio only works when amp is powered on.

    Switch: One black wire is likely key on/acc power from the main fuse block. A meter or test light will confirm 12v.
    If so, the other black wire is getting power when the premium amp switch is pulled down to on.
    Maybe disconnect that one and connect the new amp remote turn on trigger wire there?
    The premium amp switch would be the new amp's on/off switch. Just like it did with a factory amp.

  7. #7
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gr79 View Post
    Am using factory Ford radios with matching spare harness connected directly to amp.
    When i get radios from the pic a part yards, i cut the radio connector harness and buy that too.
    Same with factory speakers. Have Ford JBL/Mach in the Ranger's doors and rear of car.

    Over 40 years, have added extra wires under my dash cannot tell what some of them do anymore.
    Used what ever color wire that was handy- black yellow green. different gauges.

    Never had the factory Premium sound option in my car.
    I added the switch and light later on. Looks better that a regular toggle switch.
    Wired it according to my desire to switch a four channel amp on and off manually.
    The radio audio only works when amp is powered on.

    Switch: One black wire is likely key on/acc power from the main fuse block. A meter or test light will confirm 12v.
    If so, the other black wire is getting power when the premium amp switch is pulled down to on.
    Maybe disconnect that one and connect the new amp remote turn on trigger wire there?
    The premium amp switch would be the new amp's on/off switch. Just like it did with a factory amp.
    Ok, thanks for the help!
    Mustangs
    84.5 Gt T-top
    85 Gt

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