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  1. #1

    Default New Holley 4160 Street Warrior Install

    Working through the installation of the Holley 4160 on my 85 GT. Trying to keep stock as much as possible. YouTube videos and previous threads have been instructive. Keeping stock manifold and emissions plumbing, as much as possible at least.

    One thing I'm not clear about is what to do with wiring for the Idle Control Solenoid? One of the videos refers to the switch in the solenoid affecting the charging system. Is there a procedure I should follow to avoid adverse effects of removing the solenoid?

    Any advice or suggestions will be appreciated.

    Thanks!

  2. #2

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    I believe the idle control solenoid increases the engine rpm when the AC is turned on....

  3. #3

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    Thank you for the reply. I am familiar with what it's function is. My question was more to the point that, with the new carburetor, this part will be removed thus leaving the wire junction unconnected. Just wondering if this will cause any issues for the electrical system?

  4. #4

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    I would guess it would not do a thing, as its just sending power to it to activate it, probably just an electro magnet, but I am just guessing here.... I will have to address this soon my self..... If you find out, please follow up here.....

  5. #5

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    The issue is not with the solenoid itself, but rather the wide-open throttle cut-out switch that is also mounted to the solenoid bracket. It is a normally-closed switch that when activated opens the circuit and kills power to the compressor clutch. If removing the solenoid/switch assembly, simply connect the two wires for the switch together to keep the compressor clutch powered. Of course, doing this would mean you'll manually have to turn off your A/C before doing any spirited WOT driving.

    I currently have my car set up this way, and have for many years, with a non-factory carb. I believe most Holleys have the two mounting holes in the baseplates that the solenoid bracket attaches to, but not the special tangs on the throttle lever. At some point I plan to modify my current carb to work with the solenoid/switch assembly.
    Thomas

    1985 Mustang GT - Build Thread
    347 (Stock Block, Scat Crank & Rods, Probe Pistons, 11:1 CR, AFR 185's, PP Crosswind Intake, Custom-ground Comp Hyd Roller Cam, Scorpion 1.6 Roller Rockers, Holley 3310-4), T-5, 8.8 w/3.55's, MM SFC's, T/A, PHB, LCA's, Strut Tower Brace, K-Member Brace, Bilstein HD Struts/Shocks, MM/H&R Springs, SN95 5-Lug, Cobra Brakes, '04 Mach 1 Steering Rack

  6. #6

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    Thanks, 85MUSTANGTGT! This was the information I was hoping to receive from someone that has done this before with an aftermarket carb. Just wanted to be sure.

    I, too, noticed there are mounting holes on the new carb but an incompatible throttle lever. If you ever get around to making the adaptation, please share. I wouldn't mind re-attaching the solenoid assembly.

  7. #7

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    Glad I could be of help.

    Might have to put the throttle lever mod on this coming winters project list, or maybe sooner if time allows. Would be nice if I could come up with some kind of bolt-on solution that would fit the standard Holley throttle lever. We'll see.
    Thomas

    1985 Mustang GT - Build Thread
    347 (Stock Block, Scat Crank & Rods, Probe Pistons, 11:1 CR, AFR 185's, PP Crosswind Intake, Custom-ground Comp Hyd Roller Cam, Scorpion 1.6 Roller Rockers, Holley 3310-4), T-5, 8.8 w/3.55's, MM SFC's, T/A, PHB, LCA's, Strut Tower Brace, K-Member Brace, Bilstein HD Struts/Shocks, MM/H&R Springs, SN95 5-Lug, Cobra Brakes, '04 Mach 1 Steering Rack

  8. #8

  9. #9

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    Thanks, qikgts. I've seen those, think Holley is a little proud of them though. I already have an OE solenoid to use. I assume tundratiger still has his also.

    Its the tangs on the factory 4180 carb throttle lever I need to reproduce on an aftermarket Holley to work with the factory solenoid/switch.

    Thomas

    1985 Mustang GT - Build Thread
    347 (Stock Block, Scat Crank & Rods, Probe Pistons, 11:1 CR, AFR 185's, PP Crosswind Intake, Custom-ground Comp Hyd Roller Cam, Scorpion 1.6 Roller Rockers, Holley 3310-4), T-5, 8.8 w/3.55's, MM SFC's, T/A, PHB, LCA's, Strut Tower Brace, K-Member Brace, Bilstein HD Struts/Shocks, MM/H&R Springs, SN95 5-Lug, Cobra Brakes, '04 Mach 1 Steering Rack

  10. #10

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    Name:  throttle_lever.jpg
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    For mine I adapted the 4180 throttle lever over to a 4160 throttle shaft that has a nut on the end to hold the throttle lever in place. The throttle shaft that came with this 4160 carb did have the nut on the end, but the throttle stop was built in to the lever. I bought another shaft that has the throttle stop built in to the shaft (second pic). Of course, this required removing the throttle blades, so be cautious with that. And this should also work for someone just wanting to replace the shaft in their 4180.

    One issue I had was that the return springs didn't quite have enough pressure to return the throttle pot (damper) back to idle. I modified a secondary shaft return spring from a carb with mechanical secondaries to work on the passenger side of the primary shaft to give it a little more twist. I could only attach two pics, so I'll post a follow-up to this.

  11. #11

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    Name:  assist_spring.jpg
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    Follow up to show return assist spring. Sorry, I didn't get a pic when I had it all apart. I know it's hard to see, but I added a return spring to the little lever on passenger side of the primary throttle shaft. It just took some trial and error to cut out coils to get just the right amount of assist. The other end of the spring has a 90 degree bend to rest on top of the base.

    Mike

  12. #12

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    That's a nice solution, Mike. Definitely saves a lot of work. Who makes the threaded throttle shaft? Do you have a part number for the one you used? I'd need one for a 750 though. Did a quick google search, but not seeing anything like that.
    Thomas

    1985 Mustang GT - Build Thread
    347 (Stock Block, Scat Crank & Rods, Probe Pistons, 11:1 CR, AFR 185's, PP Crosswind Intake, Custom-ground Comp Hyd Roller Cam, Scorpion 1.6 Roller Rockers, Holley 3310-4), T-5, 8.8 w/3.55's, MM SFC's, T/A, PHB, LCA's, Strut Tower Brace, K-Member Brace, Bilstein HD Struts/Shocks, MM/H&R Springs, SN95 5-Lug, Cobra Brakes, '04 Mach 1 Steering Rack

  13. #13

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    Great info here thanks for posting
    79 Zephyr, 4.6L 4v/4r70w swap, with team z front and rear suspension, 8.8 and upgraded brakes and coil overs. Running Holley Terminator X Max.

  14. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by 85MUSTANGTGT View Post
    The issue is not with the solenoid itself, but rather the wide-open throttle cut-out switch that is also mounted to the solenoid bracket. It is a normally-closed switch that when activated opens the circuit and kills power to the compressor clutch. If removing the solenoid/switch assembly, simply connect the two wires for the switch together to keep the compressor clutch powered.
    Thank you for this information.... I have to rebuild my engine wiring loom when I get to that part of my resto.... I am going to trace the wires coming from that WOT switch when I get the engine back in my car..... This would have been a problem trying to figure out why my AC did not work if I had gotten in a hurry..... thanks again....

  15. #15

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    No problem, Bentley. Best of luck on your project.
    Thomas

    1985 Mustang GT - Build Thread
    347 (Stock Block, Scat Crank & Rods, Probe Pistons, 11:1 CR, AFR 185's, PP Crosswind Intake, Custom-ground Comp Hyd Roller Cam, Scorpion 1.6 Roller Rockers, Holley 3310-4), T-5, 8.8 w/3.55's, MM SFC's, T/A, PHB, LCA's, Strut Tower Brace, K-Member Brace, Bilstein HD Struts/Shocks, MM/H&R Springs, SN95 5-Lug, Cobra Brakes, '04 Mach 1 Steering Rack

  16. #16

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    It appears to be Quick Fuel item 102995-1Q. You can search ebay for listing # 380375376081 and it should pop up. This is the same guy I bought from a couple of years ago with no issues.

    Mike

  17. #17

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    Awesome. Thank you, Mike. I'll check into these. Had no idea they made such a thing.
    Thomas

    1985 Mustang GT - Build Thread
    347 (Stock Block, Scat Crank & Rods, Probe Pistons, 11:1 CR, AFR 185's, PP Crosswind Intake, Custom-ground Comp Hyd Roller Cam, Scorpion 1.6 Roller Rockers, Holley 3310-4), T-5, 8.8 w/3.55's, MM SFC's, T/A, PHB, LCA's, Strut Tower Brace, K-Member Brace, Bilstein HD Struts/Shocks, MM/H&R Springs, SN95 5-Lug, Cobra Brakes, '04 Mach 1 Steering Rack

  18. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by 85MUSTANGTGT View Post
    No problem, Bentley. Best of luck on your project.
    So i got out one of my supplements ( to my factory service manuals) called " Electrical & Vacuum trouble shooting manual" for 1983 Mustang/Capri.....

    The two page section in the back ( page 94) has a section called Compressor Clutch Control for 8 cylinder.....

    There is alot more to this system than I thought, and I am not bright enough to figure this out.... But some items to watch for

    The AC throttle boost Solenoid is ONLY for increasing the idle speed when the AC is on..
    The WOT AC cutout switch is part of the system that cuts out the compressor at WOT... I " believe" this is attached to the AC throttle boost solenoid..

    This feeds to a relay under the dash on the shake brace called the " WOT AC cutout relay"......
    From the diagram and " How the circuit works" explanation these are the items of most importance if you are doing like me and removing MOST of the nightmare pre computer smog devices.....
    From what I can see from the schematic, the Wide Open Throttle AC cutout relay, is also part of the Clutch Cycling pressure switch ( the switch on top of the accumulator) runs through this, so it needs to be kept in the wiring system ( at least to my simple mind)

    Possibly the wire from the " Clutch cycling pressure switch" ( the one on top of the accumulator) could bypass the " WOT AC cutout relay" ( the relay under the dash on the shake brace) and tie in directly from the wire coming from the " cutout relay " to the " AC clutch field coil" Not sure yet......

    On a side note, the solenoid on the back side of the left front shock tower called the " manifold vacuum switch" (This has been the one giving me pause while I remove items ) is not part of this system but is involved with the TAD and TAB solenoids through a relay under the dash on the right side of the steering column called the " Thermactor Dump Control Relay" that apparently is an on/off type switch for the Tad/Tab solenoids....

    I hope this helps some....
    Last edited by Bentley; 07-07-2022 at 12:16 PM.

  19. #19

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    That sounds like a bit different setup than what V8Bubble and I posted pics of above (and assuming from your D8 part number). At least on the 85's there is no vacuum involved, only 3 wires, one to activate the solenoid and two for the switch.
    Thomas

    1985 Mustang GT - Build Thread
    347 (Stock Block, Scat Crank & Rods, Probe Pistons, 11:1 CR, AFR 185's, PP Crosswind Intake, Custom-ground Comp Hyd Roller Cam, Scorpion 1.6 Roller Rockers, Holley 3310-4), T-5, 8.8 w/3.55's, MM SFC's, T/A, PHB, LCA's, Strut Tower Brace, K-Member Brace, Bilstein HD Struts/Shocks, MM/H&R Springs, SN95 5-Lug, Cobra Brakes, '04 Mach 1 Steering Rack

  20. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by 85MUSTANGTGT View Post
    That sounds like a bit different setup than what V8Bubble and I posted pics of above (and assuming from your D8 part number). At least on the 85's there is no vacuum involved, only 3 wires, one to activate the solenoid and two for the switch.
    You must of read my post before I edited it.... The D8 part turned out to be a Carburetor vent solenoid.... I went back and looked at my engine harness again and it is like yours, with 3 wires to the idle solenoid, perhaps with some different part numbers.....
    The main part of my post was the fact that there is more to this system than I thought, and if anyone else is dealing with it beware of the relays and such under the dash......
    I do appreciate your comments on here that helped me understand this system better......
    Last edited by Bentley; 07-10-2022 at 07:38 AM.

  21. #21

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    I see. Yes, EVTM for my 85 shows relays and whatnot in the system also.
    Thomas

    1985 Mustang GT - Build Thread
    347 (Stock Block, Scat Crank & Rods, Probe Pistons, 11:1 CR, AFR 185's, PP Crosswind Intake, Custom-ground Comp Hyd Roller Cam, Scorpion 1.6 Roller Rockers, Holley 3310-4), T-5, 8.8 w/3.55's, MM SFC's, T/A, PHB, LCA's, Strut Tower Brace, K-Member Brace, Bilstein HD Struts/Shocks, MM/H&R Springs, SN95 5-Lug, Cobra Brakes, '04 Mach 1 Steering Rack

  22. #22

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    Hello all,

    Well, I'm grateful for the very informed and substantive discussion my original posting provoked. At some point, I'll cirlce back and install the idle control solenoid, as folks have shared.

    One lesson I've learned and, in this case, relearned is to not opt for the less expensive route. I had, in fact, ordered a "refurbished" Street Warrior (4160) from Holley thinking I could beat the odds. No dice. Accelerator pump would not funtion properly which was causing the acceleration lag. Changed diaphram and nozzles to no avail. Timed and retimed, to no effect. Broke down and bought a new, off the shelf unit. Installed this afternoon and, walla, works like a swiss watch. Smooth and spirited acceleration, steady idle, no more lag or idle stalling. A whole new driving experience.

    So it goes...

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