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  1. #1

    Default 79 Zephyr wheel/tire issue

    Hey guys, I'm pickin up some b springs for the front today. The wheels I have already rub when I turn sharp and I'm curious how you guys have lowered your f/z cars and kept tires from rubbing while running 17s
    '79 Z7 w/sunroof, first car, 302, 5-speed, 8.8 Rear Disc
    '68 Cougar 302 4v Auto
    '84 Jeep Grand Wagoneer
    '03 F250 V10
    '04 Volkswagen Golf 2.0
    '07 Hyundai Entourage

  2. #2

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    Nobody?

    Or has anyone used b springs on the front with 17's? If so, how did it go?
    '79 Z7 w/sunroof, first car, 302, 5-speed, 8.8 Rear Disc
    '68 Cougar 302 4v Auto
    '84 Jeep Grand Wagoneer
    '03 F250 V10
    '04 Volkswagen Golf 2.0
    '07 Hyundai Entourage

  3. #3

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    Sadly it's taken 10 years for me to install these springs but im finally about to do it when i install new control arms, so bump lol. Anyone running B springs up front on an F/Z?

    Edit - I found a couple old threads mentioning B springs in a F/Z. Sounds like they maybe too low for me with these wheels on, I might just put the stock springs back in and not mess with it but I don't know...don't ever mess with springs much.
    Last edited by mercuryzephyrz7; 09-01-2022 at 04:34 PM.
    '79 Z7 w/sunroof, first car, 302, 5-speed, 8.8 Rear Disc
    '68 Cougar 302 4v Auto
    '84 Jeep Grand Wagoneer
    '03 F250 V10
    '04 Volkswagen Golf 2.0
    '07 Hyundai Entourage

  4. #4
    FEP Power Member 4-barrel Mike's Avatar
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    B springs front & rear, one coil cut, 2.3T, first time on the ground, settled a little since



    Mike

  5. #5
    FEP Power Member 4-barrel Mike's Avatar
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    Settled some (100 miles from home for Christmas, great fun on winding two-lane roads thru the mountains):



    MIike
    Last edited by 4-barrel Mike; 09-01-2022 at 09:09 PM.

  6. #6
    FEP Power Member 4-barrel Mike's Avatar
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    Ah! Rolled the fender flare lips with: https://www.eastwood.com/ew-fender-r...struction.html which is faster and easier than old school baseball bat.

    Mike

  7. #7

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    Wow, that is pretty low! It looks great on your car but you've got the 4 cylinder so mine will be even lower with a V8. Yikes!
    '79 Z7 w/sunroof, first car, 302, 5-speed, 8.8 Rear Disc
    '68 Cougar 302 4v Auto
    '84 Jeep Grand Wagoneer
    '03 F250 V10
    '04 Volkswagen Golf 2.0
    '07 Hyundai Entourage

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by mercuryzephyrz7 View Post
    Wow, that is pretty low! It looks great on your car but you've got the 4 cylinder so mine will be even lower with a V8. Yikes!
    He did say he cut a coil out of the springs, so that's going to drop it a bit more.

    For me C-Kits > B-Kits. The ride height is about the same, but the spring rate is higher. (Front springs. Never used the rears in anything other than a M/C)

    I was trying to find any good pics of my old '80 Z7 with C-Kits on it, but I had nothing from the side. The front wheels were tucked up into the fender about 1", max. the car has been gone for at least 15 years, so it's been a minute.

    Making sure you have good/new spring isolators on the springs also gives you a bit more height as well.
    83 TC "Clone"
    85 Marquis LTS
    86 LTD Wagon

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chuck W View Post
    He did say he cut a coil out of the springs, so that's going to drop it a bit more.

    For me C-Kits > B-Kits. The ride height is about the same, but the spring rate is higher. (Front springs. Never used the rears in anything other than a M/C)

    I was trying to find any good pics of my old '80 Z7 with C-Kits on it, but I had nothing from the side. The front wheels were tucked up into the fender about 1", max. the car has been gone for at least 15 years, so it's been a minute.

    Making sure you have good/new spring isolators on the springs also gives you a bit more height as well.
    I did see you in previous threads saying you preferred C-Kits too. My issue is that I have B-Kits in my garage which MIGHT work, and my stock springs which I KNOW work...so do I want to throw in the B springs only to not like them and have to swap them out again later? Or just keep what I've had.

    I'm leaning towards putting them in out of curiosity but eh. I just dont love rubbing in corners or laying on the ground to do this type of stuff as much anymore. Guess I'm getting old.
    '79 Z7 w/sunroof, first car, 302, 5-speed, 8.8 Rear Disc
    '68 Cougar 302 4v Auto
    '84 Jeep Grand Wagoneer
    '03 F250 V10
    '04 Volkswagen Golf 2.0
    '07 Hyundai Entourage

  10. #10

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    Swapping your front fox chassis springs just for the heck of it?! You're crazy. Swapping front springs is my LEAST favorite job on these cars.

    I got out of rubbing by going to smaller wheels. I went from 17x8s to 16x7s. Never even have to think about it. It's pretty nice, haha.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  11. #11

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    This is another reason I like C-Kits. No compressor is needed to install them, as they have a fairly short free-height.
    83 TC "Clone"
    85 Marquis LTS
    86 LTD Wagon

  12. #12

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    I need some better wheels. I like the look but the backspacing is all wrong for this car. I have steering stops on the rack so i don't rub up front
    79 Zephyr, 4.6L 4v/4r70w swap, with team z front and rear suspension, 8.8 and upgraded brakes and coil overs. Running Holley Terminator X Max.

  13. #13

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    I had the car up in the air messing with my brakes and noticed that my ball joint was literally hanging out of the control arm. The castle nut and cotter pin were the only thing holding my ball joint in. Well, I had been driving my Zephyr to work a couple times a week (and not gently). So I parked the car and ordered a set of new control arms from LMR. $250 wasn't cheap, but they come with new bushings installed as well as ball joints so whatever.

    I got the old ones out and was debating whether I should install the springs I've been hoarding for 10+ years. I think I was 80% sure I was just going to reinstall my stock springs so I wouldn't be rubbing a bunch and everything. It just seemed easier.

    When I removed my passenger side spring, however, it was broken. So I didn't really have much choice unless I were to cut my other stock spring to match....but they both looked like garbage so I thought it would be best to just change them out, see how I liked them, and then swap them for something else later on if I decide I don't like them.

    For some reason my passenger side still sits lower. I tried to reuse my insulators but they were all trash too, so if the springs come out again I will get new isolators too since mine were pretty much trash. It has a slight rake to it which I'm not a fan of, but honestly if the passenger side were sitting as tall as the drivers side I would be OK with them.

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    '79 Z7 w/sunroof, first car, 302, 5-speed, 8.8 Rear Disc
    '68 Cougar 302 4v Auto
    '84 Jeep Grand Wagoneer
    '03 F250 V10
    '04 Volkswagen Golf 2.0
    '07 Hyundai Entourage

  14. #14

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    It's a hassle, but I would toss some isolators on the pass side. That would probably help level you out.
    83 TC "Clone"
    85 Marquis LTS
    86 LTD Wagon

  15. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chuck W View Post
    It's a hassle, but I would toss some isolators on the pass side. That would probably help level you out.
    I got some isolators coming. If they don't make it right then I'll cut my other stock spring to match the broken one and toss them back in I think.
    '79 Z7 w/sunroof, first car, 302, 5-speed, 8.8 Rear Disc
    '68 Cougar 302 4v Auto
    '84 Jeep Grand Wagoneer
    '03 F250 V10
    '04 Volkswagen Golf 2.0
    '07 Hyundai Entourage

  16. #16
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    Mine only rubs at one spot right at the top, sorta peels the aluminum trim down in a small bend. But, I am running the LMR lowering springs with their 17x8 tribar wheel (4-lug) with a 225/45/17.
    I may try rolling them just a bit with that tool as it looks pretty sharp.
    And mine is a Granada 4D. Different animals I guess. Tread face rides about 3/4 inch above the fender line?

    Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk
    Last edited by richpet; 09-19-2022 at 10:21 AM.
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  17. #17
    FEP Power Member 4-barrel Mike's Avatar
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    For that little spot, you could go old school with a $3 thrift store aluminum softball bat and selective use of two jacks, one to get the tire off of the ground and the second to adjust body height while rotating the tire to slowly flatten the trim & lip up and out of the way.

    Mike

  18. #18
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    At this point in time I typically just push it back up once in a while. But not often because it keeps touching.
    Fender rolling is not one of those things I've ever done. Time to hit YouTube me thinks.

    Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  19. #19

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    Well I got new spring insulators installed on the passenger side. It was not a fun time, but we got it done. It leveled out the car pretty well, and my front fenders are within 1/8" of each other so I'm good with it. The rear needs to come down just a hair, and I think I'm going to spring for the adjustable lower control arms to do it. I also got my bump-steer kit from LMR installed.

    Took it down to the closest tire shop (Les Schwab) and of course they won't align it because one inner tie rod is loose and my steering rack bushings are worn. I feel like it's always so frustrating trying to get anything done at a shop. Les Schwab always pulls that type of stuff, although I'm 99% sure that if I had bought tires they would have aligned the vehicle no problem. Im going to try another shop soon and hopefully they will just align the car and let me live lol.

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    '79 Z7 w/sunroof, first car, 302, 5-speed, 8.8 Rear Disc
    '68 Cougar 302 4v Auto
    '84 Jeep Grand Wagoneer
    '03 F250 V10
    '04 Volkswagen Golf 2.0
    '07 Hyundai Entourage

  20. #20
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    Looks nice!

    Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  21. #21

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    The rake doesn't look too bad, but yeah, the rear could come down a touch. The adjustable RLCAs cane be a bit spendy, but really the only way to do it with the stock set-up. There's the MM ones, or a place called J&M Products makes a set. I'm trying to get time to finish my MM CC plate install so I can set ride height and align it.

    Most places aren't going to align it for you with that loose tie rod. (You should replace that anyway ) You can't reliably set the toe adjustment. I just do all of my own. Save the hassle of dealing with anyone.

    You can replace those rack bushings with poly. MM shows a set for the early cars with the big bolts (not the bolts/sleeve combo of the later cars) for under $20.
    83 TC "Clone"
    85 Marquis LTS
    86 LTD Wagon

  22. #22

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    Car looks great!
    79 Zephyr, 4.6L 4v/4r70w swap, with team z front and rear suspension, 8.8 and upgraded brakes and coil overs. Running Holley Terminator X Max.

  23. #23
    FEP Power Member
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    How about adding some steering rack limiters?
    Fox Body/3rd Gen MCA Gold Card Judge
    84 SVO 24K miles, 85 Mclaren Capri Vert. 84 GT Turbo Vert.
    88 Mclaren Mustang Vert 20K miles, 89 Mustang LX Sport Vert,
    03 Mach 1 7900 miles, 74 Mustang II, 69 Mustang, 67 Mustang, 07 GT500,
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  24. #24
    FEP Senior Member Patrick Olsen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by richpet View Post
    Mine only rubs at one spot right at the top, sorta peels the aluminum trim down in a small bend. But, I am running the LMR lowering springs with their 17x8 tribar wheel (4-lug) with a 225/45/17.
    I may try rolling them just a bit with that tool as it looks pretty sharp.
    Rolling the lips would definitely do the trick, and it's pretty easy to do - I've done a couple cars with the ol' baseball bat method in years past. I've also used a Dremel to cut slits in the lip and then hammered it flat. I know a lot of folks don't like that idea, but I never had any rust issues after doing it.

    The other option would be to dial in a bit more negative camber up front. It'll improve the handling in addition to giving you the clearance you need.
    '89 GT convertible - not a four-eye
    '82 Zephyr Z7 - future track car

  25. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chuck W View Post
    The rake doesn't look too bad, but yeah, the rear could come down a touch. The adjustable RLCAs cane be a bit spendy, but really the only way to do it with the stock set-up. There's the MM ones, or a place called J&M Products makes a set. I'm trying to get time to finish my MM CC plate install so I can set ride height and align it.

    Most places aren't going to align it for you with that loose tie rod. (You should replace that anyway ) You can't reliably set the toe adjustment. I just do all of my own. Save the hassle of dealing with anyone.

    You can replace those rack bushings with poly. MM shows a set for the early cars with the big bolts (not the bolts/sleeve combo of the later cars) for under $20.
    Agree on the adjustable RLCAs, they seem like the best way to go instead of removing my spring, cutting it, installing and seeing if I did it enough. Would be awesome to be able to just crank it down a half inch or whatever it needs.

    Do the rack bushing come out pretty easily? I wasnt sure if they were a pain to remove or not. Les Schwab quotes me $600 for the inner tie rods, rack bishings, and alignment. Hilarious. I don't know how anyone affords to pay people to work on their car.

    I know the tie rod SHOULD be replaced. I replaced them ~10 years ago and have driven the car maybe 3000 miles so it's not like a stock inner tie rod but I get it. Just frustrating since I don't want to ruin my tires and I don't drive the car that much so I don't honestly care if one inner tie rod is getting loose. I just want a shop to do what I ask, even if they disagree.

    But I get it, liability, warrantying their work, etc.
    '79 Z7 w/sunroof, first car, 302, 5-speed, 8.8 Rear Disc
    '68 Cougar 302 4v Auto
    '84 Jeep Grand Wagoneer
    '03 F250 V10
    '04 Volkswagen Golf 2.0
    '07 Hyundai Entourage

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