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  1. #1
    FEP User Fast_4_Eye's Avatar
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    Exclamation Burning oil surprisingly quickly?

    Just a short post to hopefully get some insight on this. I did an oil change last week-ish and put exactly 5qts of 5w30 in. Changed filter too and the dipstick read just barely under the max on the hatches. Anyways fast forward to about 30 minutes ago and the oil is in the middle of the hatches?!

    Am I seriously burning all that oil? I checked the level about 5-10 minutes after the engine was running at full temp and haven't gone out since but is there some way that the oil is still sitting up on the heads? I never see any blue smoke or anything like that so I have no idea.

    Also the engine is a 5.0 HO completely stock and about 35,000kms on it (~22,000 miles). I would think that the engine is relatively fresh given low miles? It was terribly maintained however and sat for over a decade but I don't see how that would affect the oil consumption?

  2. #2

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    There are usually two ways oil goes away, either burned or leaked. I would look for a leak first, valve covers are a good place to start.
    You can get a large piece of cardboard or paper and put it under the car at night, and if its a leak it will show up on that and point to the area its leaking from.
    1978 Mercury Zephyr boxtop 5.0 EFI T5Z 8.8
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  3. #3

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    Did you check it the first time before or after the engine was started? The oil will move into the filter and unless you prefilled the filter, that will cause a drop in level.
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  4. #4
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    And some leaks are only with the motor running. For example I have a constant drip while running. My block is a 1970 302 so two piece rear main. I didn't do it perfectly so while running I drip. Parked I don't. But look under the car for the tell tale oil coating/trailer from a leak like that.
    Also, top it to full and drive around for a week or two checking it frequently. See if it stays there or drops again.
    And, are you sure the dipstick was FULLY seated?

    Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

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  5. #5
    FEP User Fast_4_Eye's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by richpet View Post
    And some leaks are only with the motor running. For example I have a constant drip while running. My block is a 1970 302 so two piece rear main. I didn't do it perfectly so while running I drip. Parked I don't. But look under the car for the tell tale oil coating/trailer from a leak like that.
    Also, top it to full and drive around for a week or two checking it frequently. See if it stays there or drops again.
    And, are you sure the dipstick was FULLY seated?

    Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk
    Yes whenever I check I push the dipstick all the way in. I assumed 5qts was enough to fill the filter too since it says engine+filter is 5qts in my manual. I topped it up a couple minutes ago and its top of the hatches. New problem, my old oil pressure sender was fluctuating lije crazy so I replaced it now it sits at the O in normal on the gauge. I am aware that the stock gauge is a dummy gauge for 6psi but still, why not sit in the middle?

  6. #6
    FEP User Fast_4_Eye's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by emerygt350 View Post
    Did you check it the first time before or after the engine was started? The oil will move into the filter and unless you prefilled the filter, that will cause a drop in level.
    I unfortunately did not think to check. Oh well. I'm going to keep a close eye on it this time and go from there. I was hoping buying such a low mileage example would be less of a headache but now it seems to be a bit more of one lol. Still love the car, just irritating sometimes.

  7. #7

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    That gauge isn't a dummy gauge. I have both mechanical and the dash gauge. The dash gauge is untrustworthy but it does kind of reflect reality. On mine the right side of O would be 30ish psi, sometimes. 60 psi is to the right of M. On mine. Sometimes. 5 quarts is good for the motor and the filter, but you would see a drop after filling when you run it. Best thing is to get used to where it sits after an oil change, warm up, then sitting for ten minutes. Mine actually sits up there near the o on the stick.

    What year?
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  8. #8
    FEP User Fast_4_Eye's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by emerygt350 View Post
    That gauge isn't a dummy gauge. I have both mechanical and the dash gauge. The dash gauge is untrustworthy but it does kind of reflect reality. On mine the right side of O would be 30ish psi, sometimes. 60 psi is to the right of M. On mine. Sometimes. 5 quarts is good for the motor and the filter, but you would see a drop after filling when you run it. Best thing is to get used to where it sits after an oil change, warm up, then sitting for ten minutes. Mine actually sits up there near the o on the stick.

    What year?
    Its an 86, and if you say that about O is normal then I'm sitting dead nuts at warm so I think I'm alright. My new problem is my coolant system screwing me over and the pressure is being equalized somewhere and won't suck from overflow. But that question is for another thread.

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