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  1. #51

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    You can zip tie the fuel pressure gauge to the top of the cowl plastic. Do so carefully, so that you don't crack it.
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

  2. #52
    FEP User Fast_4_Eye's Avatar
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    Here's an update on the situation. I ran 2 cans of SF as a previous member mentioned to do, and I decided to spring for 91 at the pump to treat myself (and the car lol). I went through the whole tank of gas, basically down to a quarter tank, and then filled with 91 again for good measure. I have gotten the car up to 5,000rpm in 4th gear and maybe 1 sputter occurred.

    Have I solved my issue? Is it still worth buying a new filter or pump? The car runs strong and My mileage seems to be significantly better now, like as of right now I'm at 3/4 of a tank and have roughly 150km on the trip odometer. I'm thinking that the issue is pretty well cleared knock on wood.

    Next up I have to figure out the slight blow by issue since my PCV hose from filler neck to TB is CAKED in oil, but that's for a different thread haha.

    Thanks everyone for the help and advice! Much appreciated!

  3. #53
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fast_4_Eye View Post

    Have I solved my issue? Is it still worth buying a new filter or pump?

    Thanks everyone for the help and advice! Much appreciated!
    It never hurts to replace a filter of unknown age/condition. And is normally very affordable.

    Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! 9.5:1 .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads, 268 cam, T5, 8.8 with 3.55, plus all the stiffening goodies, all control arms, lowered, alum shaft, x-pipe with Outlaws, FiTech FI system...

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  4. #54
    FEP User Fast_4_Eye's Avatar
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    Just an update for anyone looking back at this thread or whoever is interested. The sputter went away about 90% and would come back when the engine was hot, like hot hot. I installed a new K&N fuel filter, say what you want it was a dollar cheaper than motorcraft, and I also got a 155lph walbro for like $60 so it was a steal for that price. It took me the better half of the night to install but everything is buttoned up and it feels like a brand new car. Tonight was the first night ever since owning the car that I not only chirped, but spun the tires through second gear. And its not even cold here.

    It really feels like a brand new car now, thank you so much everyone for the help and advice!

  5. #55

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    Cut the old fuel filter apart, and unroll the filter element in it, then post a photo of it. It is always helpful to know what part actually fixed the problem, for everyone else.
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

  6. #56

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    Great to hear. And please do check that filter.
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear.
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  7. #57
    FEP User Fast_4_Eye's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Hidley View Post
    Cut the old fuel filter apart, and unroll the filter element in it, then post a photo of it. It is always helpful to know what part actually fixed the problem, for everyone else.
    Will do first thing tomorrow, it really seemed to be the issue but very well could have been the 30 year old pump with the varnished fuel sock lol. Also while I had the tank dropped i saw that some of the hoses didn't even have clips on them!!!! Whoever was in there before really was the definition of a hack job, glad the walbro i got came with both types of clips. Also the S house was all wrinkly, looked split but i digress.

    Fuel filter was definitely yuck but very happy with how the car performs now, hoping that all the gunk hasn't caused any damage to the car.

  8. #58
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Personally Iíve had pumps fail where they start out fine then get warm and slow down to a crawl

    It was an OE pump and an antichrist to diagnose

    Jumping to a 255 in a stock hanger with stock return was one of the biggest mistakes Iíve ever made with the car. Huge problems that to a damn long time to figure out. The fuel return canít flow 255 making it my brand new fuel pressure regulator

    It sounds like the injectors need to be cleaned based upon changes with seafoam

    Good luck with it

    oh Ö.. and the comment about why would you go past 3000?

    Lord only knows how many times mine has been on the rev limiter. As long as the rod bolts hold up (1 in 15 were ďbadĒ Ö. Prone to fail. Is that 1 or 16 or 0 in a given engine?)

    RPM doesnít kill these engines often. Usually itís bad maintenance and failing induction components or too much timing that kills them
    -- James

    Favorite thing Iíve said thatís been requoted: ď"40 year old beercan on wheels with too much motor"

    My four eyed foxes:
    "Trigger" - 86 Mustang GT - Black with red interior. 5.0 T5 built as Z. Original motor ~1/2 million miles. 18 yr daily, 10 a toy
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    Also in the stable - my sonís car. 1986 Mustang GT Convertible. Black/Black/Black conversion. 93 leather. VM1 ECU. T5Z

    past foxes -
    1989 Mustang LX Sport 5.0 AOD white/tan black top. Once I ran this one down I caught a wife.
    Wife also had a 1987 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe in the 90's.

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  9. #59
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by erratic50 View Post

    oh Ö.. and the comment about why would you go past 3000?

    Lord only knows how many times mine has been on the rev limiter. As long as the rod bolts hold up (1 in 15 were ďbadĒ Ö. Prone to fail. Is that 1 or 16 or 0 in a given engine?)

    RPM doesnít kill these engines often. Usually itís bad maintenance and failing induction components or too much timing that kills them
    3k is only half the powerband...

    Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! 9.5:1 .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads, 268 cam, T5, 8.8 with 3.55, plus all the stiffening goodies, all control arms, lowered, alum shaft, x-pipe with Outlaws, FiTech FI system...

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  10. #60
    FEP User Fast_4_Eye's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by richpet View Post
    3k is only half the powerband...

    Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk
    That's what I told my shop teacher lol.

    But yeah I haven't experienced the problem once today and I was beatin' on 'er pretty good. Its a 155lph btw not 255.

    Also can't post pic of fuel filter, dad threw it out haha

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