'83 GLX, 5.0 pukes
Drove the car, air temp 90-92 degrees, not equipped with AC, manual trans. At the end of 50 miles and interstate speed of 65-70 mph, the car puked the fresh coolant out. The temp gauge in the car was on the hot side, but within the "hash" marks on the gauge. Radiator cap tested good.
Bad thermostat?
Did you feel good about the fill? Air bubble? If the thermostat was blocked you would have seen the temp rise (unless there was a bubble).
1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.
If you idle the car from cold, can you feel the upper hose and see if it warms up? If it does, then the thermostat should be good?Originally Posted by 1carguy
if the t stat is good, time to start looking at radiator/water pump/cooling fan etc. You didn't say where it was puking from but the radiator cap might be bad?
79 Zephyr, 4.6L 4v/4r70w swap, with team z front and rear suspension, 8.8 and upgraded brakes and coil overs. Running Holley Terminator X Max.
Thanks for the replies
When I added the fresh coolant, I filled the radiator, left the cap off and started the car, the t-stat opened, hot coolant came into the radiator, fluid went down. I shut it off and added more coolant to the top. Maybe I should have repeated that procedure?? I can't figure out why it took 2 hours to puke, if the fluid was low or an air bubble.
It was puking out the small hose into the overflow burp tank, which quickly filled up, then out onto the driveway
Last edited by 1carguy; 03-28-2022 at 11:20 PM.
Should of added the fluid while the car was running after the thermostat opened....
Sounds like you might of overfilled it? Just guessing here....
Let it cool down completely (overnight) then repeat what you did except add coolant while its running after the thermostat opens..... Do not overfill it.. let it run a bit longer to make sure level is correct, then cap it let it run for a while longer and after it cools completely see what is in the overflow tank..
Top off overflow tank to the correct level Then monitor it for the next few days
Definitely overfilled. Also don't start car with cap off, you should full tighten cap, then start car.
Yeah, and the overflow tank is more than that. Your engine will add to and suck water out of that tank. Make sure you have about 2 inches of fluid in there when cold.
1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.
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