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  1. #1
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Default Removing front springs, LCA arm help

    Finally got all my stuff for my front suspension refresh. New oem lower control arms, bolts, ford performance b springs, moog inner and outer tie rods, MM caster camber plates and strut tower brace. I’ve already added new struts and all new brake stuff last year but have never delt with the front springs or lca before. It’s my first time doing this and it’s very intimidating, I’ve been putting off starting because of the dangers of removing those damn springs. I’ve read a couple different ways and I’m not sure which is best. One way is your typical remove everything with jack under arm and slowly letting it down until you run out of room then using a pry bar to force spring out. Second is leaving everything attached except sway bar end links then using 2 jacks on each side of arm ears to remove bolts then lowering arm. Second is supposedly safer. So I could really use some advice, tips etc for getting this done.

    ps
    I already have the MM spring installation tool for putting springs back in.

    Thanks
    Mustangs
    84.5 Gt T-top
    85 Gt

  2. #2

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    I've always popped them out lowering the arm all of the way and prying them out. Never had a problem. They don't have all that much stored energy at that point. They'll make a bunch of noise, but not go very far. Just keep clear of the immediate area.
    Since you're replacing the arms, go ahead and loosen the bolts on the LCAs, to allow for the arms to freely pivot and not be held up by the bushings.

    On installing new springs, you may not need a tool to install them. It depends on what they're free length is. I'm not sure how long the B-Kits are, but I know all of my C-Kits and some of the high-rate Eibachs I've used are short enough to not even need to be compressed. I just put them in place, pressed them into their proper orientation on the LCA and just jack the arm back up.
    Last edited by Chuck W; 03-20-2022 at 07:42 AM.
    83 TC "Clone"
    85 Marquis LTS
    86 LTD Wagon

  3. #3
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chuck W View Post
    I've always popped them out lowering the arm all of the way and prying them out. Never had a problem. They don't have all that much stored energy at that point. They'll make a bunch of noise, but not go very far. Just keep clear of the immediate area.
    Since you're replacing the arms, go ahead and loosen the bolts on the LCAs, to allow for the arms to freely pivot and not be held up by the bushings.

    On installing new springs, you may not need a tool to install them. It depends on what they're free length is. I'm not sure how long the B-Kits are, but I know all of my C-Kits and some of the high-rate Eibachs I've used are short enough to not even need to be compressed. I just put them in place, pressed them into their proper orientation on the LCA and just the arm back up.
    Ok thanks for the advice. When it comes to putting new arms on do you need anything like anti seize and do you just snug up bolts and then torque when sitting on tires at ride height?
    Mustangs
    84.5 Gt T-top
    85 Gt

  4. #4

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    My preference is to at least put anti-seize on the bolt that is inside the bushing sleeve, and maybe a little bit on the threads. The a-s inside the bushing tube is to keep the bolt from getting rusted in there. Granted it's going to take a while for it to happen, but when they do, it's a bear to get them out.

    Nothing special aside from making sure the suspension is loaded when torqueing the bolts.
    83 TC "Clone"
    85 Marquis LTS
    86 LTD Wagon

  5. #5

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    I had to use a spring compressor if I remember correctly, those stock springs just kept expanding. Putt in the new Ford perf. Springs were much easier. You could always roadkill them. Cut the spring with a torch....
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  6. #6
    FEP Member 86MustangGtRob's Avatar
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    Default

    When I changed my control arms on my 85 GT last year. I just slowly lowered the arm until their was no spring pressure then used a pry bar to pop it out. Thats great you have the MM spring install tool. I used it, it works like a charm.

  7. #7

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    I never had any issue removing the stock springs with the method I mentioned. The amount of energy left in them is minimal. They pop out without issue.
    83 TC "Clone"
    85 Marquis LTS
    86 LTD Wagon

  8. #8
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Default

    Use a spring compressor and a few pieces from a ball joint press kit

    rig it up so you can use the compressor to pull thru the bottom opening

    then get the strut bolts out and A arm bolts out.

    back the compressor off once the A arm is free

  9. #9
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Default

    Thanks for all the suggestions! Couple more questions, is it best to remove rotor and bearings and all that or can I just keep it all installed on the spindle and remove everything together? Once I get spring and control arm off is it best then to remove strut completely and install the MM caster camber plates or is it better to leave strut connected at the top reinstall everything( new arm, spring) and and get it all situated then just remove strut again to install cc plates? Just thinking that it might help retain somewhat the current wheel alignment and not completely throw everything out of whack. Also what’s your thought on the poly isolator’s for my new springs? Use them or leave them off? Use top ones and leave pig tail one off?
    Mustangs
    84.5 Gt T-top
    85 Gt

  10. #10
    FEP Power Member gmatt's Avatar
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    Default

    I always drop a heavy chain or cable down through the center of the spring. Even if it pops out , it won't go very far.

  11. #11

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    I did mine in steps, I had a shop do the plates and then I did the springs. If you are doing everything I would still wait and do the plates last but perhaps it would be easier with the strut fully removed?
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  12. #12
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by emerygt350 View Post
    I did mine in steps, I had a shop do the plates and then I did the springs. If you are doing everything I would still wait and do the plates last but perhaps it would be easier with the strut fully removed?
    ya not too sure. I’m pretty much going to be completely removing strut anyway just to have some more room when working on arm and spring. I just figured if I left the original strut alignment plates where they are for now until I had everything else done I might be able to maintain the wheel alignment a bit and have it not be completely out. Who knows maybe I don’t know what I’m talking about which is more than likely lol. This is the first time doing any of this stuff on the front end
    Mustangs
    84.5 Gt T-top
    85 Gt

  13. #13

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    I'm 95% certain that you will not be able to remove the spindle from the FCA, without removing the brake rotor first. The tip of the FCA sits inside the rotor. This tip will hit the ID of the rotor, when you try to lift the spindle off of the ball joint stud.

    Remove the strut. Install the strut last. This will make things much easier.
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

  14. #14
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Hidley View Post
    I'm 95% certain that you will not be able to remove the spindle from the FCA, without removing the brake rotor first. The tip of the FCA sits inside the rotor. This tip will hit the ID of the rotor, when you try to lift the spindle off of the ball joint stud.

    Remove the strut. Install the strut last. This will make things much easier.
    Ok thanks Jack, removing rotor is not a big deal.
    Mustangs
    84.5 Gt T-top
    85 Gt

  15. #15
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Ok so order of operations for removal order should be brake calliper, rotor, tie rod end, sway bar endlinks, put jack under fca then remove strut, and spindle. Slowly lower jack until fca is at lowest point then pry out spring and finally remove fca? Then Reverse order to install?
    Mustangs
    84.5 Gt T-top
    85 Gt

  16. #16

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    The order of operations should be:

    Install floor jack so that the handle is pointing forwards, out from under the bumper cover. Make sure that the car is high enough, so that the FCA will be able to swing downwards until it is vertical, without hitting the ground.

    Break FCA bolts loose, brake caliper, rotor, loosen tie rod end from steering arm, sway bar endlinks, put jack under fca to hold it at full droop travel, then remove strut, outer tie rod, and spindle. Lower FCA. spring will fall out. Remove FCA. Install c/c plates. Reinstall in reverse order. Do not tighten FCA bolts until the tire is on the ground supporting all of the cars weight. This is best done by driving the car up on ramps.
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

  17. #17
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Hidley View Post
    The order of operations should be:

    Install floor jack so that the handle is pointing forwards, out from under the bumper cover. Make sure that the car is high enough, so that the FCA will be able to swing downwards until it is vertical, without hitting the ground.

    Break FCA bolts loose, brake caliper, rotor, loosen tie rod end from steering arm, sway bar endlinks, put jack under fca to hold it at full droop travel, then remove strut, outer tie rod, and spindle. Lower FCA. spring will fall out. Remove FCA. Install c/c plates. Reinstall in reverse order. Do not tighten FCA bolts until the tire is on the ground supporting all of the cars weight. This is best done by driving the car up on ramps.
    Perfect thanks Jack
    Mustangs
    84.5 Gt T-top
    85 Gt

  18. #18

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    And keep in mind that depending on your jack and the change in geometry... You may not be able to get the jack back out the way you got it in....
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  19. #19
    FEP Power Member gmatt's Avatar
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    Default

    One more thing. Eat your wheaties before trying those control arm bolts.

  20. #20

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    Use a breaker bar, and slide your floor jack handle over it. That is another reason to get the car high up off of the ground. It gives you a larger angle to be able to rotate the nuts.
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

  21. #21
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    So I got underneath to see if I could at least get fca bolts to loosen before I started taking everything off. The rear bolts on both sides will move so those shouldn’t be a problem but it looks like I will need to remove tie rods to even try to loosen the frontward bolts. Inner tie rods are in the way to be able to get the 30mm socket to fit on.
    Mustangs
    84.5 Gt T-top
    85 Gt

  22. #22

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    You can remove the steering rack bolts to lift the rack up.

    If you remove the inner tie rods, do not use a socket. That will damage the rack. The link below shows the proper technique.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hba-2fMT9Es
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

  23. #23
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Hidley View Post
    You can remove the steering rack bolts to lift the rack up.

    If you remove the inner tie rods, do not use a socket. That will damage the rack. The link below shows the proper technique.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hba-2fMT9Es
    Ok, well the tie rods are getting changed also but was going to do that last. Is it as easy as just removing steering rack bolts and lifting it up a bit to get socket on?
    Mustangs
    84.5 Gt T-top
    85 Gt

  24. #24

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    Yes.....
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

  25. #25
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Hidley View Post
    Yes.....
    Thanks!
    Mustangs
    84.5 Gt T-top
    85 Gt

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