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  1. #101

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    Today I put in new seals,sunroof,hatch and door seals. About the door seals,What a crock, all that for door seals? Anyway I was gonna post my accomplishment and saw the request for pics,so I sat thinking for a bit about a decent spot I came up with this.
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    About 3 miles later I’m on the road side with a no start. It just died cruising home. Never again will I leave with no tools or phone. Or leash for my copilot. I believe it’s in the ignition switch again, but I’m beat for a while. I did get er to fire up and gave it the beans out of whatever, frustration I guess.
    its kinda funny I’ve got 500 miles on the beast and I’m getting residual mouse pee. Tuesday night I had problems with the parking lights about 90 miles from home. Turns out it was the same problem(mousepee)on the fuse. Overall I consider myself lucky that it didn’t happen during the first pic.
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    mine are the curvy ones

  2. #102
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Default fuel line leak

    While doing routine checks under the hood, noticed fuel running (no spray yet) pretty good on a section of rubber fuel hose.
    Then noticed the leak evaporated quickly in a few seconds after engine was shut down and fuel return circuit did its job.
    A hidden intermittent serious problem even though engine ran normal.
    Found new Gates 5/16" fuel hose piece already cut in my hose box. Reused the spring clamps. 15 minute repair.

    Was an old 4" rubber hose connector piece, between a Fram G2 clear fuel filter and the fuel pump hard line.
    Hardened and cracked. Leak only visible when engine was running and line had pressure.
    Not caught earlier. Fuel smell when parked, but fuel smell is normal with a carb. A leak is hard to detect as such by smell.
    Pretty sure leak was what caused recent new dark spots on the driveway.
    The hose will go into the broken badly parts jar.

    On the last few short drives, the fuel gauge dropped faster than normal from 1/4 to almost empty.
    Average is about 50-60 miles per 1/4 tank mark.
    Gas was below 1.00 in 1979. Remember thinking 1.32 for premium was sky high.
    Drove car to test hose repair and get 20.00 worth of 87. 3.77 gal @ 5.30. 1/8 to 1/3 tank.
    Prob cost 60.00 to fill what was 10.00 a few times in the past. Gas mileage= 4 for a dollar.

  3. #103
    FEP Super Member mmb617's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gr79 View Post
    Drove car to test hose repair and get 20.00 worth of 87. 3.77 gal @ 5.30. 1/8 to 1/3 tank.
    Prob cost 60.00 to fill what was 10.00 a few times in the past. Gas mileage= 4 for a dollar.
    That got me to thinking (always a dangerous thing), my car has a 10 gallon fuel cell and gets about 10 mpg. Good news is I can fill it up for about $50, bad news is that will only take me 100 miles so I'm getting 2 miles for a dollar.
    408/T5/3.73's

    We're not fast racers, we're more what's known as half fast racers.

  4. #104
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Default

    In the past, 20.00 would allow 160 miles of driving (20 mpg x 8.0 gal @ 2.50/gal or 8 for a dollar)
    Now 20.00 gives 80 miles of driving (20 mpg x 4.0 gal @ 5.00/gal).

    10 gal x 2.50 is 25.00 good for 200 miles
    25.00 now is 5 gal, good for 100 miles
    Back in the 80's, could get 10 gal for 7.00 (window sticker 1979 EPA fuel cost was .70/gal) and go that 200 miles.
    That 7.00 will now last only about 28 miles.

    Same cost as if car was now getting 1/2 the fuel economy like 10 mpg instead of 20.
    10 mpg of the past is now like 5 mpg cost wise
    5 mpg diesel rig now costs like a 60's Ford SD 534 gas job.

    Regular 100% gasoline at the corner is over 6.00/gal
    Standard street racing fuel like Turbo Blue or VP from a pump was 7.50 last check few years ago.
    Sunoco 260 was the most commonly bought for cruise night action in a new 1970 muscle car.
    Last edited by gr79; 06-11-2022 at 10:40 PM.

  5. #105

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    got a muffler on today.it’s 3 inch pipe from the cat back with a turn down right before the axle. I lucked out with O’Reillys having one and a half foot piece I needed. I welded up all by myself with minimal straying from the seam for me(there was some) but overall I’m very happy with the improvement in drone and it’s just more relaxing. Money spent was $12 for the pipe and 32 cents for the bolts. This $100 harbor freight welder has saved me lots of trouble and money. I can’t recommend to the average joe enough to just try it, try welding.
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    I had intended to make a y pipe and use 2 mufflers but there was no hanger on the passenger side. So if anyone has more information on the exhaust hangers, am I missing 1?
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    one more thing I ran across this yesterday
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  6. #106
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Carbsovertech View Post
    I had intended to make a y pipe and use 2 mufflers but there was no hanger on the passenger side. So if anyone has more information on the exhaust hangers, am I missing 1?
    I believe your Mustang is a 1983 Mustang GT. The dual exhaust didn't become standard until 1985 on the GT, so there were only exhaust hangers on the one side for tail pipes. That is why you are missing them. You can snag some from the 85-93 Mustangs with the V8's or order some from one of the many Mustang vendors if you still want to add dual pipes. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  7. #107

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    Quote Originally Posted by Broncojunkie View Post
    I built some cribbing blocks last week and just got around to getting the newish (to me) pace car up. I also got the old damaged rear bumper cover removed. That was about as much as I could handle.

    I've been recovering from hand surgery (carpal tunnel). It's finally healed up well enough for me to get some work done, but for the last 5 days, I've been down for the count. Somehow, I pulled a muscle around my lower left ribcage. Spent most of Sunday in the ER trying to figure out what was going on. All the important stuff is ok, so they said it was probably muscle/rib. As of Monday, I could physically feel it contracting, so that makes sense. I've been knocked out with muscle relaxers and grunting my way around the house. It'll knock the wind right out of a fella.

    Attachment 137218
    How are those furniture dollies on your cribbing working for you? I had considered using them, but wasn't entirely sold on them being strong enough. I know the HF ones are rated for 1000 lbs. Seems like that should be enough tho.
    1985 Mustang GT (Mothballed...Desired restomod parts acquired...Top of my project list for my 2024 retirement!)

  8. #108

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    after searching under the hood I found one of these 2 connectors was loose. Hasn’t died since.Name:  56A4C39C-AD74-48B5-8C7C-25872C27239E.jpeg
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    today while waiting on the delivery of the power steering rack from Napa I changed the fuel filter and tried some insulation to keep it from getting hot but no luck with that. Also straightened up the plug wires a little. And snipped the tip of my turn down on the exhaust. Shortly after finishing those up a tornado warning was issued, steering rack was delivered as well. So not gonna happen today,but soon. Name:  7CE24C80-9FC1-4202-AD1B-F9092E8B7EC7.jpeg
Views: 227
Size:  263.9 KB I also cut the old filter and it looked clean so that’s a big plus. For being parked 26 years and have no gas tank issue is really surprising. Props to whoever ran it dry.Name:  14F383EC-5382-4A1A-BB85-4090F9C01749.jpeg
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Size:  201.7 KBbugarwelds

  9. #109

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    Made a bracket to mount (3) relays, mounted the relays and ran B+ power to them, and ground. Tested each with power probe, they all work! lol
    Tomorrow is my wife's birthday, so prob on Friday i'll get around to wiring up the trigger wires for the relays and then the other power side.
    Also need to mount a small fuse box, looking in my scrap bin for some 1/8" aluminum sheet or similar.
    Once that stuff is done, should not be much left to do to fire the car on the Holley system.
    79 Zephyr, 4.6L 4v/4r70w swap, with team z front and rear suspension, 8.8 and upgraded brakes and coil overs. Running Holley Terminator X Max.

  10. #110

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    Centered my steering wheel centered today. It’s all I’m doing today because yesterday I Got the new p/s rack in and my back is killing me. It took all day because everything that could fight me did. It doesn’t help that I did it in gravel. I did clean and paint some as well before I installed it. The new rack from Napa cost $215 minus the core which came to $89. It was delivered the day after I ordered it, not bad at all. I did reuse the outer tie rod ends for now as there still good but I’ll order some when I get a fuel pressure regulator. Is there any recommendations for the regulator?Name:  7EA8F3FA-5356-4469-A96B-7C394E711DAE.jpeg
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  11. #111
    FEP Power Member Broncojunkie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 85GTGuy View Post
    How are those furniture dollies on your cribbing working for you? I had considered using them, but wasn't entirely sold on them being strong enough. I know the HF ones are rated for 1000 lbs. Seems like that should be enough tho.
    They seem to hold the weight just fine, but the wheels don't want to work very well with that much weight on them. I have another mustang on a set of them and they work pretty well, but there's no engine/transmission in it. I think I'm going to pick up 2 more dollies and just use the castors from them. Basically, my plan is to add an extra wheel to each end of the dollie to help spread the load out. I'm out of town for a few weeks, so it may be a while before I can report back. Hobo Freight sells castors but they're cheaper if you just buy a couple dollies for $10 each.
    79 Pace Car - 331, t5
    79 Pace Car- 302, 4 spd
    79 Cobra - working on 351w, t5
    82 Capri- working on 302, t5
    82gt - working on 408w, c4

  12. #112
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Default carb 2.3T oil burning mystery solved?

    Drove car 10 miles close to home.
    Oil level is still at FULL
    May have found the cause and fixed the 25 mile per qt oil addiction since 6/24/21.
    Engine is 79 2.3 Turbo. 160k on first rebuild.
    Have driven about 200 miles since turbo compressor oil seal failure. Engine starts and runs fine.
    Turbo is currently non-operational. Turbo is still in place but everything is disconnected to run in n/a config.
    Latest repair summery is posted in link http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...alve-stem-seal
    Post #28
    Last edited by gr79; 06-19-2022 at 09:04 PM.

  13. #113

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    Replaced rear wheel cylinders and shoes today but I’m still not sure why the upper pivot points won’t close all the way on the drivers side. I’ve pulled it apart twice since the installation and readjusted the adjuster on the bottom not sure the name of the part but 1 was seized and the other was bent. The whole reason for brakes was the pad on the drivers side was rubbed to metal in the upper portion(probably the same problem I’m having now. Any ideas?Name:  06AAD0F4-0DB9-493E-B734-F36A70D4019F.jpeg
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    For some reason I can’t upload bigger than 360 size pics anymore.

  14. #114

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    I had a long tough day. Hopefully tomorrow is better
    79 Zephyr, 4.6L 4v/4r70w swap, with team z front and rear suspension, 8.8 and upgraded brakes and coil overs. Running Holley Terminator X Max.

  15. #115

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    Quote Originally Posted by Carbsovertech View Post
    Replaced rear wheel cylinders and shoes today but I’m still not sure why the upper pivot points won’t close all the way on the drivers side. I’ve pulled it apart twice since the installation and readjusted the adjuster on the bottom not sure the name of the part but 1 was seized and the other was bent. The whole reason for brakes was the pad on the drivers side was rubbed to metal in the upper portion(probably the same problem I’m having now. Any ideas?Name:  06AAD0F4-0DB9-493E-B734-F36A70D4019F.jpeg
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    For some reason I can’t upload bigger than 360 size pics anymore.
    Parking brake cables frozen?

  16. #116

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    I don’t think it is as it works just fine, but I’ll check to see if the last little bit is hanging up soon. Today I installed a fuel pressure regulator and think I’ve got the starting issue fixed. After sitting and soaking in heat I’d have to hold it to the floor to get er to fire. Between fuel pressure and the problem with modern gas and heat I’m ordering a phelonic spacer next but not sure what one. I made a spacer out of cutting board material but it only helps prolong the heat, I want more than that. I m pretty sure I can fit a “1 spacer anyone have a suggestion as I’m leaning towards edelbrock “3/8.

  17. #117
    FEP Super Member NAVYCAT's Avatar
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    I have done nothing since April, (thinking of selling the Capri) been working on my LS3 Porsche
    2017 Ford Explorer Sport (DD) 1986 Capri 5.0 Silver/Red
    1969 Falcon XW GTHO coupe (SOLD) went to Australia
    Past 4 eyes-
    4th. 1981 Capri "White" Black Magic I6
    3rd. 1984 Capri RS V8 Black/grey
    2nd. 1984 Capri RS V8 White/red
    1st. 1984 SVO Grey/grey (traded it for a worn out 1970 BOSS 302)
    Both '84 Capri's vin# were 10 away from each other
    U.S. NAVY 1980-2009

  18. #118
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    My Ranger was like that at the top anchor
    Shop told me the wrong spreader bar-parking brake strut-caused that.
    It was for a 10" drum instead of 9".

  19. #119

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    Quote Originally Posted by NAVYCAT View Post
    I have done nothing since April, (thinking of selling the Capri) been working on my LS3 Porsche
    That sounds like an interesting project. Got any pictures of it.
    1986 ACS McLaren Capri
    1971 Mustang
    1968 F100

  20. #120

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    Working on fixing hole in drivers floorboard front corner
    79 Zephyr, 4.6L 4v/4r70w swap, with team z front and rear suspension, 8.8 and upgraded brakes and coil overs. Running Holley Terminator X Max.

  21. #121

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    That was my thought on the spreader bar as well but to find out I’d have to pull them both apart and I’m fine doing that…in the future. But today I finally got my timing set. I wasn’t able to get the distributor out even though I tried for 2 days with a slide hammer. I have no access to an engine hoist so I used my flat bar to pry it using the vacuum advance to pry on, it was a last resort but worked. Next up is the subframe connectors I believe, but looking at the picture (back a couple posts) with the new steering rack installed I believe the passenger side tie rod is angled up quite a bit. Can anyone tell me I’m paranoid please? Do they all look this way,The geometry doesn’t look right to me. Thanks for the input guys. Everything is much appreciated.
    Last edited by Carbsovertech; 06-29-2022 at 12:56 PM.

  22. #122
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    the lower control arm and the tie rod should be at the same angle. when they have different angles you get into bumpsteer. in simpler terms. with car at rest and normal weight the tie rod and lower control arm should be parallel to the ground.

  23. #123
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    In relation to the A-arm yes, the rack/tie rod is a bit high. It should run close to parallel with the control arm.
    This is mine. Not perfect but you can see a difference compared to yours.

    '81 subframe/body
    '89 steering rack
    '87-'93 V8 spindles
    FMS A-arms
    LMR lowering springs

    Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk
    Last edited by richpet; 07-02-2022 at 04:26 PM.
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  24. #124

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    I did a thing... no more paying for registrations! No more paying for State Inspections!

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  25. #125
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    I'm planning on starting the dreaded heater core today. I figured I should start earlier so I have time for cursing and beer.
    Last edited by KevinK; 07-09-2022 at 11:18 AM.
    Fox Body/3rd Gen MCA Gold Card Judge
    84 SVO 24K miles, 85 Mclaren Capri Vert. 84 GT Turbo Vert.
    88 Mclaren Mustang Vert 20K miles, 89 Mustang LX Sport Vert,
    03 Mach 1 7900 miles, 74 Mustang II, 69 Mustang, 67 Mustang, 07 GT500,
    14 Mustang CS/GT, 15 F150 FTX Tuscany, 16 F250 Crewcab, 67 Tbird 47K miles

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