Worth every penny though
Worth every penny though
79 Zephyr, 4.6L 4v/4r70w swap, with team z front and rear suspension, 8.8 and upgraded brakes and coil overs. Running Holley Terminator X Max.
I bought the kit from Amazon. Belinous is the brand name they have several sizes based in steering wheel diameter and thickness. It came with really good instructions and have a video online. There are also several you tube videos with various stitching patterns. The nice thing is, if you screw up along the way it is easy to undo the stitches and start over.
79 Mustang Coupe - Jade Green Metallic - 5.0 5Sp - Purchased 2006
17 Mustang Convertible - Triple Yellow Tri-Coat - 3.7l Auto - Purchased 2020
------------------------------------------------------------
01 Mustang - 3.8 Auto True Blue - Oct 2001- Apr 2022 RIP
85 ASC - McLaren 5.0 SC - ASC White - 5.0 CFI Auto - Owned 2004 - 2016
98 Mustang - White - 3.8 5pd - Owned 1998 - 2001
84 Mustang SSP - White - 5.0 5sp - Owned 1993 - 1998
84 SVO - Charcoal - 2.3t 5Sp - Owned 1989 -1992
79 Mustang Ghia - 5.0 Auto - Owned 1981 - 1986
68 Mustang Coupe - 302 Auto, Yellow - Owned 1980 - 1981
79 Pace Car - 331, t5
79 Pace Car- 302, 4 spd
79 Cobra - working on 351w, t5
82 Capri- working on 302, t5
82gt - working on 408w, c4
Installed Shadowdash on the head unit, slowly getting the gauge cluster refined. Had to re-scale everything for the small screen. It'll be nice to have the ability to datalog without the laptop in the passenger seat.
Jeremiah
1986 Mustang GT 5spd, 3.27's
PimpXS ECU/Android Single DIN Touchscreen
SN95 Cobra Brakes/SN95 Front LCA's/Axles/S197 Wheels
1998 Explorer Engine/Stock HO Cam 281rwhp/326rwtq
Had to install a bypass hose on my Mustang. The heater core failed after it being in the car for only a year.
I kept my OEM leather on the one that had it since leather and stitching was still good, just a could of gouges in it. I also wanted a thicker, more modern feel. The other wheel was the stock uncovered wheel. They did measure differently. (BELINOUS size L1 for the stock sport wheel, L3 for the OEM Leather version)
79 Mustang Coupe - Jade Green Metallic - 5.0 5Sp - Purchased 2006
17 Mustang Convertible - Triple Yellow Tri-Coat - 3.7l Auto - Purchased 2020
------------------------------------------------------------
01 Mustang - 3.8 Auto True Blue - Oct 2001- Apr 2022 RIP
85 ASC - McLaren 5.0 SC - ASC White - 5.0 CFI Auto - Owned 2004 - 2016
98 Mustang - White - 3.8 5pd - Owned 1998 - 2001
84 Mustang SSP - White - 5.0 5sp - Owned 1993 - 1998
84 SVO - Charcoal - 2.3t 5Sp - Owned 1989 -1992
79 Mustang Ghia - 5.0 Auto - Owned 1981 - 1986
68 Mustang Coupe - 302 Auto, Yellow - Owned 1980 - 1981
Had to swap out the 10 holes with fresh rubber from my 85 to my 88 to pass inspection. The 88 had turbines with 11 year old 50-60k mile BFG's, they were in sad shape. Cheapest price for I could find for new 225/15/60 BFG's is $168 each w/free shipping. The rubber on the 10 holes are Uniroyal Tiger Paws I bought for $78 each (+$95 for install). Might just get another set of Paws but the 85 is still not running or current plates.
Scotty
1985 Fox Notch 4-banger Ranger tube header Eastwood Royal Blue
1988 Fox LX 5.0 AOD Vert BBK 170mph speedo Candy Apple Red
1999 Mustang Coupe V6 Auto Chrome Yellow -Daily Driver.
Past Pony's.....
68 Coupe Inline-6 3-Speed-Man. Primer
78 II Hatch 302 3-Speed-Auto Sunroof Black
81 4-Eye Coupe 4-Banger 4-Speed-Man. White
Spent the day rewrapping a dash harness (still not done) and that generated a question: is there a sub harness for the hatch release button? According to my build sheet decode, it's supposed to be equipped with it, but I can't find a plug in the harness, nor does there appear to be any connections on the latch itself. Any insight?
84 Capri RS Turbo
Vinemont, AL (formerly El Mirage, AZ)
USAF 1986-2007 (Ret)
Changed the fluids. Oil, diff, and trans. Also installed a rear shock tower brace and the front strut tower brace.
I am running an HEI dizzy so the MM brace does not technically fit. I am going to space it up to clear for now (better than nothing) and lower it when I install the next motor. Which should ride a bit lower in the bay.
Edit-
A buddy of mine with welding skill is going to help me modify the brace prior to full install. If anyone is interested I will post pics in the appropriate part of the forum. Hopefully within the next few weeks for this.
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Last edited by richpet; 05-16-2022 at 02:43 PM.
83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!
Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?
"Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"
Finally got around to repairing the cracked ds door window channel frame.
3/16" steel rivets, hardware store metal brace.
Took < one hour. The air riveter took less than one sec to set a rivet tightly.
Push hard on rivet head, pull trigger once..done. Much better results than using a hand op rivet tool.
Plenty of room behind the window run rubber to drill and set rivets on inner door frame without removing rubber.
New repair is strong- no frame flex, window seal is correctly seated. Repair will be painted to match door.
No more door upper rear corner weatherstrip air leak. Corner leaned out a bit. Did not leak water.
Weld lasted about 6 years. 80a MIG 6.5 feed, 3 heat, then 60 grit. Frame eventually re-cracked almost 360.
Last edited by gr79; 05-19-2022 at 01:16 PM.
Weather was ideal and had tools out from door frame repair, fixed the curled ps door belt molding.
Last winter the ps door belt molding worked loose.
Loose molding was catching front fender, stopping the door from opening until pushed tight and held.
That got old quick. Door is original installed with the car. Seals, glass, latch/lock fine, paint ok. Rust in check.
Used two 3/16 wide-flange rivets. Will repaint gloss black on rivet head edges satin to match molding.
Had to rivet. New molding tape would fail. Probably will fill molding to door gap with black RTV.
There was advanced door rust under at the curled area.
Was not going to remove and retape the whole molding just to fix the end, which would just fail again.
Someday, if the molding needs to be removed and reinstalled, will fill drilled holes and restripe over.
Being driven weekly, repairs are to match or improve factory design intent. Not 'show' but is seen in public.
Look or repairs are now secondary but not to be sloppy or hacked. Old cars can be tricky to repair respectfully.
Added note:
Other day, experimented with a bit of hot melt glue on a molding curl, top front door edge, above the front rivet.
Surprised is holding the molding flat and tight. Will see what 90F day sun heat does to that.
Last edited by gr79; 05-26-2022 at 01:50 PM. Reason: added sentences
Got my front end all buttoned up. Installed my new ford b springs with the help of the MM spring tool, spindles, MM caster camber plates, inner tie rods and tie rod ends. Took it for a rip for the first time and man this car is going to be a blast to drive. Now I Just need to get it in for a wheel alignment and get the exhaust all professionally fixed up and I should be good to go.
Mustangs
84.5 Gt T-top
85 Gt
Welded in a patch for my pass side footwell, in the corner. Been that way since i bought the car 2yrs ago. Drivers side is the same/worse but my garage is so small that i can't open both doors, so gonna have to turn the car around to do the drivers side. Used weld-thru primer and used mostly drilled holes & spot welds instead of the butt welds that i usually do. It came out very strong, and i did not oilcan it. Need to clean it up, apply seam sealer and paint.
79 Zephyr, 4.6L 4v/4r70w swap, with team z front and rear suspension, 8.8 and upgraded brakes and coil overs. Running Holley Terminator X Max.
It got it's first ever wax job on 41 year old paint. And a little surface rust...
Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk
83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!
Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?
"Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"
Looks GOOD!
Mike
My '78 Fairmont build - http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...539-78-Big-Red
Agreed, that looks really good. I picked up an 89 GT a couple months ago that looks like it is a similar color (2H cabernet red) The paint on my car probably has not been waxed in 10 years and I think it is going to come back with minimal effort. Just weird how forgiving this color of red is compared to my 91 ranger that is bright red.
67 Mustang Coupe
96 Tangerine GT
86 Saleen #179
Thanks!! It turned a lot of heads at the 'Cars and Coffee' this morning. Several said the sound and the look just didn't match. Lol!
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83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!
Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?
"Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"
Repaired the driver's side outer door handle on the Continental. One of the pivot pins had worked loose. Put some J-B weld on and re-staked the pin. Lubed the visible parts of the window mechanism and cleaned the crud out of the window channels.
I gave it more beans today than ever. Passing a lady who was under the speed limit on the highway. I was at 50mph, dropped it to 4th, then put the pedal down.
I know this is far from the fastest car on the road, but I can't complain. Very respectable.
Btw - fully 100% safe and legal pass, except for my velocity.
Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk
Last edited by richpet; 05-26-2022 at 02:27 PM.
83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!
Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?
"Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"
Yesterday i finally think i made a mount for my holley ECM. The crappy part is doing that without dropping the dash.
My dash is in such bad shape that every time i remove/install it, it cracks even more.
Made the mount out of MDF. Drilled some holes and installed some threaded inserts i already had to mount the ECM to the MDF.
Glued and clamped it yesterday.
Today going to sand it, then locate the mount where the radio was. Drill some more locating holes, install more threaded inserts. Once it's mounted nicely i can paint it and then start running wiring harnesses
79 Zephyr, 4.6L 4v/4r70w swap, with team z front and rear suspension, 8.8 and upgraded brakes and coil overs. Running Holley Terminator X Max.
Have not driven the Zephyr since last November. It would not start and I did not feel like fooling with that at the time.
Had a full tank of gas. Registration expires in May so I decided to get it running last weekend.
Fooled with the solenoid for a while. Put on a spare, no start only click. Checked all the grounds, all seemed OK.
So spent a great deal of time removing the starter. I have a hurt back so it was no fun crawling under the car and
removing the wishbone to get to the starter. Well, AutoZone said the starter was no good even though it
fired up when tested. Ordered and replaced, no start. Remembered reading that maybe the battery was too weak
to supply the amps needed to start. Battery is old and reads weak. Replaced, no start.
Took battery cables and put them on the coupe. The starter on the coupe engaged.
The coupe's cables on the 4-door then made it start with starting fluid. Gas leaking from hose to pump,
and then the fuel filter. Replaced both. Car starts when using starting fluid. When you turn off the car no start
without using more fluid. Ordered and replaced fuel pump. All is good now.
Adjusted engine to factory specs, take to Smog Test, passes with flying colors.
Good for another 2 years.
Lots of FREE F/Z info on my site.
http://myzephyrs.com
I took it out for the first real drive today. I managed to do 75 miles so far. Drives pretty good, no rattles or creaks. So glad I jumped on it when it popped up for sale around Xmas. I’m into her for $2700 that is including collector registration and 6 months insurance. Admitting the price doesn’t seem to be a popular thing but I’m here to say you can still drive a fox relatively cheap.
79 Pace Car - 331, t5
79 Pace Car- 302, 4 spd
79 Cobra - working on 351w, t5
82 Capri- working on 302, t5
82gt - working on 408w, c4
I built some cribbing blocks last week and just got around to getting the newish (to me) pace car up. I also got the old damaged rear bumper cover removed. That was about as much as I could handle.
I've been recovering from hand surgery (carpal tunnel). It's finally healed up well enough for me to get some work done, but for the last 5 days, I've been down for the count. Somehow, I pulled a muscle around my lower left ribcage. Spent most of Sunday in the ER trying to figure out what was going on. All the important stuff is ok, so they said it was probably muscle/rib. As of Monday, I could physically feel it contracting, so that makes sense. I've been knocked out with muscle relaxers and grunting my way around the house. It'll knock the wind right out of a fella.
79 Pace Car - 331, t5
79 Pace Car- 302, 4 spd
79 Cobra - working on 351w, t5
82 Capri- working on 302, t5
82gt - working on 408w, c4
...and about that '83 GT Carbsovertech, post more pics when you are able
Now let's all go outside and enjoy our Foxes--no more typing for awhile!
Last edited by Bryan Knebworth; 06-10-2022 at 03:21 PM. Reason: sp -1
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