Very close but the bottom is out a little too far.
Very close but the bottom is out a little too far.
Very nice - keep the updates coming.
1984 Mustang LX
302, Holley 4bbl 600 vac sec
B&M C4 R servo
Shorty Headers
MSD Box and Coil
Scorpion Roller Rockers 1.6
Crower Cam 472 112 seperation
Chetah Shifter
Performer RPM Intake
Carter Electronic Fuel Pump
Accel Eletronic Dizzy
Third time is the charm. I believe I’ve finally set if far enough back that I can get the header installed. With the bigger radiator, I need to modify the drivers side tube.
The final modification included sh Shortening the bottom brackets further back.
I then had to modify the upper AC line bracket.
I then Mounted the intercooler and move the braces back. Once that was done I still had to trim the lower air dam.
The passenger side tube fit quite well, However, the driver side needed to be cut and shortened. I now need to get the last piece to the intercooler length and by 2 inches.
I had a local muffler shop add a couple inches of pipe to the tubing. They did a reasonably good job but it twisted inward slightly from the welding. I checked the internals with a borescope to ensure there was no slag that could go to the engine and it seems good. I’m not sure if I’ll try to get someone to build a custom one or not, I just want to get it running and see how everything works.
It’s alive. I am still waiting for the BOV to arrive and used the bypass valve to make it run. Setting the timing is a bit of a challenge and it took a while to tighten the bolt. I was a little confused by the fact setting the timing is backwards from a V8. It’s set at 12 BTC with 17” vacuum at idle.
Now on to bodywork until the snow melts.
https://youtu.be/JOWl4Gday-M
A well documented story of the SVO
https://youtu.be/guOMqryonwo
If is the dist hold down bolt, an offset box wrench does the job easily.
Makes road test adjustments easy on a hot engine.
Neighbor welded one up for me. Cut up a spare box wrench and welded 12" long metal rod to the shortened wrench ends.
Chrome ones are sold in parts stores.
My stock 79 carb 2.3T runs best with same settings around 12° and 17"-20" warm 900-1000 idle rpm.
Cam is straight up. Found same settings work with stock 79 cam or the later Ford A231.
Good power, economy, drivability, 87 RON fuel.
Thanks gr79.
Another update on the build can be found here.
https://youtu.be/VvA3NlNcxHA
Patrick
Looks like a great build
Ive always like SVOs. The chance to buy a decent one at a good price is getting more rare all the time
I noticed a pair of side marker lights for sale for 1500 USD. That’s expensive and even more so when you pay in Canadian pesos. While I like the SVO, the headlights don’t look finished and wish there were other options out there. If you look at the comments section, LMR may consider creating a one piece headlight kit for these unique cars. If anyone agrees, please add your comments there.
https://youtu.be/znneW-jriQ8
For the dizzy I always replace the stock bolt with an allen head. Then get an allen wrench with the ball end, cut the long arm off and weld it into an appropriately sized socket. It works so much better than messing with a crowsfoot trying to loosen that oversized bolt.
steve
FFS now you tell me. It’s a great idea!
Not much new to report. When I came back from the red deer swap meet, I stripped the left quarter a little more and found a little more damage than expected. It’s all repairable but more work and time. I also welded the roof seams and installed the BOV.
I’m getting ready to epoxy prime the body sections that were stripped earlier this year. Hopefully tomorrow if all goes well.
A few more updates.
https://youtu.be/PKJf29lKG2g
https://youtu.be/7iovrbeBRIo
Great updates. Haven't had time to stop back here in a while....
1979 Indy Pace Car Mustang 302 / 5spd
1982 Mustang GT T-Top 302 / 4spd
1986 SVO Mustang - 1C
I moved the SVO out to the front garage Friday. The front has developed a pretty good oil leak. It’s either from the valve cover or the camshaft seal. That really sucks because it seems to be from the front camshaft seal. I epwas a little worried when I noticed the belt seems to be shifted ahead a bit.
If anyone has a bright idea please let me know.
Patrick
Yah first check the valve cover gasket.
Particularly where it runs over the front cam tower.
Upon install, they can slip out of alignment in front, enough to leak.
I use a Felpro Permadry blue one. It installs dry and has a nice flange molded in to hold it in place along the rails.
Besides being molded rubber with metal grommets, it is easily visible all around if installed correctly.
Recently noticed oil seepage behind the t-belt area. Gasket was out of position.
Noticed could not see blue at the cam tower section. Was pinched and too far back where the vc flange arcs over the cam gear tower.
Guess was not in place good enough and the gasket tab slipped, letting the gasket slide back on the tower and leak.
No leak since cleaning and reinstalling it. Can see gasket's blue flange all the way around now.
Thought is if the cam seal leaked, would be behind the belt guide at the cam.
Cover leak would be higher up near the t-belt teeth on the sprocket.
Hard to imagine a small leak would cause the timing belt to slip unless it sprays.
Last edited by gr79; 04-03-2022 at 10:15 PM.
Check the cam bolt. The cam is pressurized with engine oil.
If the bolt doesn't have {adequate} Teflon sealant, it will leak....
I had a hell of a time getting mine to seal properly after rebuild(s).
1979 Indy Pace Car Mustang 302 / 5spd
1982 Mustang GT T-Top 302 / 4spd
1986 SVO Mustang - 1C
Thanks for your replies. It seems like it could be the cam bolt. I suspect I will need to loosen the timing belt first, correct?
I removed and installed the cam bolt today and added Teflon tape to it.
It still seems to be leaking out the seal or valve cover bolt.
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