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  1. #1
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    Default Loctite or ARP lube for flywheel bolt install

    I know this is gonna sound dumb, but looking for confirmation.

    Installing the flywheel to the crank. What do y'all use on the threads? They are ARP 12 pt bolts.

    Since they're ARP I used their lube.
    Online checks say use Loctite to seal threads from oil leakage. But I thought the flywheel holes were blind (not all the way through so no exposure to oil, so how could they leak?)?



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    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  2. #2

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    http://1.cdn.lib.americanmuscle.com/...18241-manu.pdf

    I don't know how accurate this info is, but it looks like you might need both?
    79 Zephyr, 4.6L 4v/4r70w swap, with team z front and rear suspension, 8.8 and upgraded brakes and coil overs. Running Holley Terminator X Max.

  3. #3
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    Thanks! Not sure how I missed that. I don't think I used any Loctite, just ARP lube.

    I took it apart because of a slight oil drip since day one. Not bad, but figured I'd take it apart and check it all out. That may be where it came from.

    Glad I checked, and glad you pointed that out!

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  4. #4

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    dont think you will have oil leaking out of the crankshaft!!

  5. #5
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    Default

    I didn't either as I thought they were blind holes (no oil access). But if not, why do the instructions indicate it is possible when I check online? Argh.

    I just do not want to do the rear main if possible as it's a two piece style.

    I'll probably just live with a drip. Just don't feel like pulling the actual motor.

    But who knows. Sigh

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  6. #6
    FEP Power Member gmatt's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bigblok80 View Post
    dont think you will have oil leaking out of the crankshaft!!
    it sure can

  7. #7
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    Default

    I just never figured it could go through those flywheel bolt threads.

    But, when I took it apart, there was a slight 'radial' spray around each bolt. Not a lot, but I figured it was ARP lube I didn't get wiped off before installing the clutch. Perhaps it's possible it was a slight bit of oil, too. The clutch disc/pressure plate were perfectly clean so I am happy about that. Zero slippage or indication of any contamination. That also is what makes me doubt the bolt threads, but...

    Guess I will know when I seal everything back up.
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  8. #8

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    crank people would need to make a special effort drilling a crank to get oil into the bolt holes.
    i dont think you will find a passage to the oil system in the end of crank.
    rear seal, oh yeah,weve all had em...

    oh, i only know the 460,not a small motor with the seal around the outer flange, sorry
    Last edited by bigblok80; 11-22-2021 at 06:57 PM.

  9. #9

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    FWIW I use the Oaty TFE white pipe sealant you can find in most hardware stores on the flywheel bolts. It is also good for oil and water pressure sender threads as well. Seals threads very well and doesn't ever really harden. I think it was recommended on this site by someone many years back.

    Oil definitely can leak past the threads on the flywheel bolts. I also thought I had a seal leak one time only to find leaky bolts. There might be blind holes on some cranks but most of the 5.0 stuff I have seen they are drilled through etc.

    https://www.amazon.com/Oatey-31230-J...59192939&psc=1

  10. #10
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    Yeah, that stuff can be used on the head bolts, too.
    I used the Permatex brand with PTFE from AutoZone. On the heads and water pump stuff. Blue Loctite and a dab of ARP lube under the bolt head for flywheel bolts.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    Last edited by richpet; 11-23-2021 at 10:10 PM.
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  11. #11

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    Yeah for sure. What I like about the Oaty stuff is that if you need to disassemble later you can just wipe it off a bit and apply new stuff since it never really hardens like loctite or the permatex aviation sealant.

    I've had my flywheel on and off quite a few times and just put a little new stuff on the bolts...works !!

  12. #12
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    Nope. It's the rear main.
    So I either:
    Live with a leak or
    Pull the motor.

    Think I will wait until it's convenient to do anything. Oh well, my first experience with a two-piece rear. Hopefully my last.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

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